Catastrophic Turbo Failure - Long Post, Skim-Friendly

[rob-2]

How so? Weight or brand?

 

Brand. It doesn't provide the protection you're hoping for and I wouldn't put it in a turbo'd car.

[Max Capacity]

Brand. It doesn't provide the protection you're hoping for and I wouldn't put it in a turbo'd car.

 

Ditto, RP is not recommended for these cars.

 

If you want a easy oil to get, Shell Rotella t6 is what is mostly recommended.

 

Both my cars use Amsoil European 5w-40 Full SAPS. I use their filters and after having oil samples done have decided on a 7000 mile oil change interval. For my style driving that makes sense to me. My cars see mostly highway miles for long periods. Blackstone Labs say's to leave the oil in and send them another sample in 2000 miles, but I just change it.

 

Also, my wagon spent its first 154,000 miles on cheap dino oil and Fram filters from Walmart, I used Mobil 5000, Shell, Exxon 5w-30 and changed the oil ever 4000 -5500 miles. Summer time I use Shell Rotella 15w-40.

[GEE-OTTO]

 

Man. This whole situation just makes me sad, especially because of how perfect of a vehicle the Outback XT is for me.

 

Wonderful versatility. Lots of room in the back to store supplies for helping other folks out of bind such as a flat tire. Ground clearance that mocks MN roads. AWD that laughs at MN snow. Starts every time, even in -25º F actual temperatures with my factory-original battery. Enough power for some fun driving. My first car. Enough problems to teach me that I can, in fact, work on cars- I learned I'm not just the computer guy.

 

Wow. It almost feels like I'm losing a good, long-time friend. It seems silly to like a car so much, but the silliness doesn't make it untrue.

 

They do make a H6 and H4 non-turbo OB that eliminates all the turbo worry.

 

Could be an option.

[GEE-OTTO]

T6 5w-40 and Purolator Gold for my LGT. Very easy to find on sale at Walmart or Autozone.

[stm25rs]

T6 5w-40 and Purolator Gold for my LGT. Very easy to find on sale at Walmart or Autozone.

 

And Amazon.

[lingling1337]

Just skimmed the thread so I don't know if anyone mentioned it, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold to install the oil line kit. The 16g is a nice big bump in power that you'll appreciate.

[silen7guardian]

Just skimmed the thread so I don't know if anyone mentioned it, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold to install the oil line kit. The 16g is a nice big bump in power that you'll appreciate.

 

Oh? I'll have to look for a how-to or something, then. Thanks.

[silen7guardian]

They do make a H6 and H4 non-turbo OB that eliminates all the turbo worry.

 

Could be an option.

 

 

Playing with power is at least half of the fun. I would personally go for the H6 if not a turbo model. The idea of a timing chain instead of a timing belt just sounds better for long-term reliability. Also, after driving my OBXT, I don't know if I could stand driving a naturally aspirated 4-cyl. Subaru.

 

Need moar HPs, yo!

[silen7guardian]

Brand. It doesn't provide the protection you're hoping for and I wouldn't put it in a turbo'd car.

 

I like the science-y answers. Is there some sort of research or testing or chemical composition or something that supports this? I mean, I'm definitely going to use T6 when I get this sucker up and running again, if for no other reason than price ($27/gallon? Hello!). However, I'm a naturally curious fellow. I suppose I could research this on my own with The Googles later, but if you happen to know something, please share.

[silen7guardian]

[images attached]

 

When I pulled the turbo, spinning one turbine would not spin the other. Snapped shaft? Turbo shells look good- I'll have to clean them to really see- so I think I'm going to try and replace the cartridge for this. It's no BNR, but it's cheap. I still have to wait for a warmer day to drop the oil pan since I can't heat up the engine to drain the oil effectively.

[covertrussian]

Playing with power is at least half of the fun. I would personally go for the H6 if not a turbo model. The idea of a timing chain instead of a timing belt just sounds better for long-term reliability. Also, after driving my OBXT, I don't know if I could stand driving a naturally aspirated 4-cyl. Subaru.

 

Need moar HPs, yo!

 

H6 sucks IMO, sure is has the HP, but these cars are heavy and need torque. A friend is regretting getting an H6 and wishes he got a LGT after he drove in mine.

Spark plug replacement in an H6 is much much worse.

 

Timing chain is a plus because I hate belts, but after I replaced my belt on the FXT two weeks ago I don't mind belts as much anymore. Problem with Subaru timing chains is it's two chains and two tensioners. If chain stretches it's a pain to replace, if tensioner goes bad you can jump a tooth and do damage. Plus more complexity = harder to work on = higher cost.

 

Wow I never thought I would defend a timing belt .

[stm25rs]

I like the science-y answers. Is there some sort of research or testing or chemical composition or something that supports this? I mean, I'm definitely going to use T6 when I get this sucker up and running again, if for no other reason than price ($27/gallon? Hello!). However, I'm a naturally curious fellow. I suppose I could research this on my own with The Googles later, but if you happen to know something, please share.

 

I don't think there's any real scientific survey, but tons of turbo subaru owners have sent used oil samples into Blackstone Labs for testing, and T6 has been shown to work.

 

There's lots of good technical discussion at bobistheoilguy.com, and lots of UOA (used oil analysis) results at nasioc.

 

^ That's not the science-y answer you're looking for, but hopefully it helps with your googles.

[silen7guardian]

It doesn't look like there's a lot of info (if any) easily available about rebuilding a RHF5H with a VF-40. I'll have to figure it out and post the results here. I noticed that on the compressor side, one of the main seals appears to have been red (high-temp) RTV. On other turbos, it looks like there's typically a large O-ring instead. To be clear, I'm not saying it looks like someone substituted RTV for an O-ring. I'm saying that it looks like this turbo is designed to be assembled with RTV.

 

The other picture is of what I believe was one of my turbo's oil seals. It just fell out of the turbo during disassembly. I also did eventually get my banjo bolt/union screw's oil filter out. I had to destroy it though. It was pretty gunked up... maybe a little worse than covertrussian's.

 

I'm thinking/hoping that, because my compressor's shaft snapped, there wasn't much debris sent into the intake since it couldn't have continued to be driven by the turbine. That's probably just wishful thinking though.

[motorbykemike]

[images attached]

 

When I pulled the turbo, spinning one turbine would not spin the other. Snapped shaft? Turbo shells look good- I'll have to clean them to really see- so I think I'm going to try and replace the cartridge for this. It's no BNR, but it's cheap. I still have to wait for a warmer day to drop the oil pan since I can't heat up the engine to drain the oil effectively.

 

 

exactly what happened to my brides ride

 

i'l tell you the story

 

I replaced the turbo w/ a new vf52 (requires tune) , unbolted the motor mounts and jacked the motor up a touch to remove the oil pan and found some fine metal from the turbo bearing , replaced the oil pickup w/ a killerb as the stockers have been know to crack , it was , very slightly .

 

I found very fine alum flake in the intake tract from the compressor wheel

 

the banjo screen was clogged , I removed it . I also undid the bolt that holds the oil feed line to the head (and did not replace it) that feeds the turbo and avcs and removed the banjo from the avcs , flushed line w/ carb cleaner and compressed air and reinstalled.

 

I also replaced the up pipe w/ a non catted one and did some other mods but they are not really relevant to your situation .

 

my opinion for you , you car has some miles on it , stock turbo be it a new one , cartridge replacement or used , replace pickup , clean oil pan and intercooler , remove banjo screen and clean line , new turbo drain tube , cheap fresh oil/filter for 200 miles then change again.

 

on the cheap , you should be able to get it up and running in a day and for far less than a g , all in , gaskets, oil , beer , pizza , yada yada .

 

if you want to mod it , fix it like that and run it for a few k to make sure it's good , do a compression and leakdown test , send the oil for analysis , if it all checks out , wooohoo!

 

I fully expected our car to spin a bearing or some other catastrophic oil system related failure but the thing has over 35k since "the fix".

 

I'm willing to bet your banjo screen is clogged or your pickup is cracked unless you have been running high boost and doing fast and furious style flat shifts bangin off the rev limiter .

 

brides car broke just cruising down the hwy

 

check the classiffides here and nasioc for used parts , fred beans is great for new stuff

[silen7guardian]

my opinion for you , you car has some miles on it , stock turbo be it a new one , cartridge replacement or used , replace pickup , clean oil pan and intercooler , remove banjo screen and clean line , new turbo drain tube , cheap fresh oil/filter for 200 miles then change again

A complete compression test is not an option. Cyl. 4 plug is non-removable. The hex head isn't stripped; it's just not there. That's how it was when I bought the car. When that plug eventually dies, I'll have to pull at least the driver's side head. At that point, I'm not sure what I'll do... but I suspect it will involve forged pistons.

 

This Rallispec shortblock looks more and more tempting every day, but it's off the table at least until that sparker fails. I realize that it's unnecessary to resolve a spark plug stuck in the head, but I'm a little sick of OEM problems.

 

I do plan on replacing the up- and down-pipe. If my oil pickup isn't cracked, I think I'll leave it be. I'll have to replace the turbo inlet hose, since it's ripped. That inlet hose is $80 for an OEM replacement from Subaru, I believe.

[iNVAR]

OP, that sucks.

 

But I wanted to at least commend you on a good post with paragraphs, easy to read, etc.

[motorbykemike]

that's odd as far as the plug , typically the threads and hex are one piece with the ceramic bonded to the hollow center of it .

 

you could break the ceramic/center electrode out and use a big easy out on the plugs threaded sleeve

 

what brand and # plug ?

 

I think if any subie owner pulls the oil pan and does not replace the pickup w/ a stronger part they are friggin nuts , but that just my opinion

[silen7guardian]

that's odd as far as the plug , typically the threads and hex are one piece with the ceramic bonded to the hollow center of it .

 

you could break the ceramic/center electrode out and use a big easy out on the plugs threaded sleeve

 

what brand and # plug ?

 

I think if any subie owner pulls the oil pan and does not replace the pickup w/ a stronger part they are friggin nuts , but that just my opinion

 

I'll reconsider the oil pickup, then. The plug was in when I bought the car, so I don't know what it is. Using a shop's scope, I saw that the hex head was just gone. I should have taken a picture. I believe the plugs were always OEM. I gather that the only previous owner was pretty good about doing things the right way. At least, the right way according to Subaru.

[silen7guardian]

I added LearningView screen-shots to the first post. The first is from before I pulled and cleaned the OCVs. The second is from after the oil change, while the tailpipe was smoking like crazy, right before the engine died.

[Max Capacity]

WHen your at the dealer to order the inlet tube, also pick up 3 or 4 bolts that hold the up pipe support bracket to the block, use those bolts to bolt the turbo to the up pipe, also get a new oil return hose.

 

The bolts are much easier then the studs when trying to line up the turbo to the inlet hose, oil return and up pipe.

 

Get new gaskets for the up/dp too.

 

If it makes you feel better, the cracked pick up tubes seem to be common on later 05' and early 06's. My wagon has a build date of May 04, so I'm still using the OEM pick up tube.

[covertrussian]

If it makes you feel better, the cracked pick up tubes seem to be common on later 05' and early 06's. My wagon has a build date of May 04, so I'm still using the OEM pick up tube.

 

08/04 here! Finally a benefit of owning one of the first LGT's.... my rad fans hate me and the relay has already been replaced .

[Max Capacity]

08/04 here! Finally a benefit of owning one of the first LGT's.... my rad fans hate me and the relay has already been replaced .

 

I seem to recall my relay was replaced twice, or the ecu the second time. You may want to check that if your fans run a lot.

[silen7guardian]

If it makes you feel better, the cracked pick up tubes seem to be common on later 05' and early 06's. My wagon has a build date of May 04, so I'm still using the OEM pick up tube.

 

Well, good. I think mine was manufactured some time in '04. I forget the exact details.

 

Thanks for the tips!

[Max Capacity]

If your there by the oil pick tube, inspect it good and go from there. Mine looked great.

[covertrussian]

I seem to recall my relay was replaced twice, or the ecu the second time. You may want to check that if your fans run a lot.

 

Trying to diagnose it still, the fan comes on at weird temps on cold starts, like below 30*F only . Will post about it once I figure out the details ha.