Mgjones Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 2004 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5 L Slipping clutch in first and second gear, but only below freezing. When the temp goes above 32f/0c it drive like new. I figure there is ice forming somewhere. Things I've replaced: Slave cylinder Master cylinder Flexible hose Bleed the heck out of it Clutch/ pp/ tob ( old ones looked real good) Flywheel was smooth with only slight discoloration( scuffed it) I'm at my wits end. Any help would be much appreciate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Is it okay in the cold once its warmed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 If you used that clutch how many miles where on it and how long ago did you work on the clutch pack? The cold causes parts on edge to go over it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 Even when the car warms up it still slips. Only when the temp. goes above freezing does it drive normal. The car has 110,000 miles and I just replaced the clutch. It was doing the same thing before I changed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 it might be glazed. I would go easy on it for 300 miles and test again. I bet it won't slip after well warmed up and idling for 10+ minutes to keep temps. up under the hood. Is it garaged or parked outside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 I just drove it 150 miles and still slipping. At home it's in the garage, however, it's in the Boston airport outside parking about 15 days a month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Man, you've replaced everything. I don't know about the '05 but my '08 has a somewhat "different" linkage on the clutch pedal. Its attached to a rotating shaft that runs in behind the brake pedal toward the centre of the car. I'm wondering if something is getting bound up in it? You have to be a contortionist to see it, but there is an adjustment up in there on mine. Maybe yours is simply too tight and slightly disengaged all the time? Is the heater cable stuck under it or something? Just guessing here of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 10, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 10, 2014 Silly question, but are you sure you put the right clutch in? And the flywheel was not resurfaced from what I'm reading? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Silly question, but are you sure you put the right clutch in? And the flywheel was not resurfaced from what I'm reading? That's where im confused as well, Clutch/ pp/ tob ( old ones looked real good) Flywheel was smooth with only slight discoloration( scuffed it) I thought he took the clutch and and reused it OP you should have installed Exedy KSB04 kit if possible could you give us the part number(s) used for the replacement parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 That's a good idea. Mine does have the same setup. I'm driving it home 150 miles today in warm weather. When I get home ill spray that tube out with brake cleaner. I'll let you know. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I replaced the clutch Pp and TOB with new ones from NAPA. The Fly wheel was not resurfaced , but it looked great. The clutch still had meat left on it. The flywheel was smooth with a slight discoloration I cleaned it real good and scuffed it with 150 grit sand paper. The problem I was getting before the change is the same problem I'm getting now. I'll look for the part number but I think I trashed it. I'll call my NAPA guy on Monday and figure the part number I got. Ok, drove it home last night from airport parking. It was 60 degrees the clutch slipped for 10 min. I stopped for food then it was perfect all the way home (150 miles) . I sprayed the clutch peddle mechanism down with brake cleaner and WD 40 this morning and took it for a test drive, no slipping at all. I'll see what happens when the weather drops below freezing again. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Keep us updated curious to see the outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Donnyjagaru your a genius. Woke up to freezing temps today and clutch worked 100%. Apparently there was enough gunk and carpet fuzz to keep the peddle from returning all the way. A heavy spray with brake cleaner and WD40 did the trick! I think I didn't need to change any parts. Just a can of WD40. Oh we'll, I would have needed a clutch in 20 or 30,000 miles anyway. Thanks for everyone's input. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 I've got to look into this on my car... how difficult is it to see what's going on in there? I've never adjusted my clutch (don't really know if it's possible or how I would do it) but I think I should take a look at this same thing. Mine seems to slip in 1st gear when it is cold out. I'll have to get under there and take a look at things. Pictures would be helpful if possible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 17, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 17, 2014 It's not difficult, but it is a serious PITA--if that makes sense. Somewhat tight space and you need to lay on your back while cramming yourself under the drivers footwell. You undo the linkage at a point above the gas pedal--remove a cotter pin, then squeeze little white tabs to remove the actual pin. Loosen the locking nut on the threaded portion, and then you can adjust the length by turning the u-shaped piece along the threaded portion. A little bit of adjustment (couple turns) goes a pretty decent amount. When you're done, tighten the locking nut back up and reassemble. The *hardest* part is probably pulling the little tiny cotter pin out and removing the actual pin--those little clip things suck. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobshane Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 ^ I agree you want a little bit of free play in the clutch pedal. But loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment rod with some pliers. No need to undo all the other stuff. If there is no free play it will constantly put pressure on the clutch and cause the slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 OK, I thought i had this solved! Cold weather again, long story short, and I think i finally found the culpret. The rear left CV is popping out of the differential. Popped out get slipping, shoved in no slipping! I cant get it to stay in. So...new problem. New axle? or c clip problem in the differential? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgjones Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Totally fixed. It was the axle. Replaced the axle and runs like a champ even in cold weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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