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1997 Legacy issues


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Reading your comments on this car. I think that there are so many issues with your car, that you really need to get it looked at by a mechanic or an auto electrician and get a run down on just what the problems are and how much it will cost to get them fixed, otherwise you are just going to spend a lot of time running around second guessing everything. I'm surprised it's going at all.
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We'll the battery is only about 9 months old but whoever but the battery in also replaced the terminals and I've had some troubles with but I think I be eliminated the troubles recently. I do understand how that could cause this but it wouldn't explain why it only does it in low gears. My tranny shifts pretty hard so I assume it does need some work there. If you've read any of my other posts you'll see I've had nothing but troubles with this thing. It's got nearly 250,000 miles on it and I think its on its last leg. It gets louder and harder to drive every day.

 

A loose belt will usually squeal at start up, just so happens your in low gears when you start out. Usually, the belt will squeal for a little while, until it has built up enough heat to become tacky. The more times this happens, the harder the rubber gets from the heating/cooling process. After a time, it will just squeal continuously.

 

I'm not a transmission expert, but I'm pretty sure our trans are electronically controlled. I have had experience with other vehicles with electronic transmissions having problems due to alternator and battery problems. So it is feasible that these 4eat transmissions would act up if there are voltage problems with the car.

 

Our cars are know to have electrical issues related to grounding and power delivery from the alternator to the battery. There are many posts related to grounding kits and upgrading the alternator wires.

 

I have read some of your posts about this car, 250,000 miles isn't necessarily a problem. Theses cars are pretty resilient, there are some issues, but most are related to simply replacing a few sensors. If your car isn't throwing any CEL's, there shouldn't be any major issues to deal with.

 

Do an image search for "subaru iac valve" on yahoo or google.

 

How high is your oil level? That could cause issues also. If its real high, change your oil filter, run it, then check again.

 

If the car was in pristine condition, I might think about rebuilding it, otherwise, run it on the cheap, and start saving for the next one.

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Thanks all for the info once again. My subaru is certainly not in good shape by any means but at the same time anyone can just buy a subaru. I would prefer to just make this one mine, build it to suit you know. I know it's a lot of work but I want that challenge. Also I would have to say the oil is golden. It looks as it should. My first thought was maybe a head gasket but I don't lose a drop of antifreeze. I will say on my way home tonight my car ran excellent. Usually I leave work and it spits and sputters and I have to floor it to make it move etc. tonight it ran great, however I was doing about 55 on my back road home tonight and 2 deer decided to jump out in front of me... I killed both of them but not a scratch on my car. Also just wanted to throw this out there, I did a 0-60 time test... 21 seconds. But this was about a week ago.
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Got a new knock sensor today and put it on. Haven't test drove it yet to see if I notice a change but I took off the air box and peaked in at the throttle body... It is filthy, the flap is covered in oil or grease or something. Also I've done image searches of that IACV, I can not find anything that looks even remotely close on the engine. I read a write up of how to clean it and it shows some pretty detailed pics. I'm looking right were it should be and it's not there?
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Got a new knock sensor today and put it on. Haven't test drove it yet to see if I notice a change but I took off the air box and peaked in at the throttle body... It is filthy, the flap is covered in oil or grease or something. Also I've done image searches of that IACV, I can not find anything that looks even remotely close on the engine. I read a write up of how to clean it and it shows some pretty detailed pics. I'm looking right were it should be and it's not there?

I am wondering. Have you ever worked on a car before ? If not, then the work that you need to undertake to get this car in good working order again may be beyond you. If you haven't, then get some help from someone that has. I have seen people that know nothing about cars, take on work trying to repair them, only to cause more damage on them because of not knowing what to do. You need to be careful with todays cars because they are a bit more technical than the cars of past years, something that you don't get right, may end up costing more to fix in the long run from the stuff up.

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I am wondering. Have you ever worked on a car before ? If not, then the work that you need to undertake to get this car in good working order again may be beyond you. If you haven't, then get some help from someone that has. I have seen people that know nothing about cars, take on work trying to repair them, only to cause more damage on them because of not knowing what to do. You need to be careful with todays cars because they are a bit more technical than the cars of past years, something that you don't get right, may end up costing more to fix in the long run from the stuff up.

 

I'm not too experienced but I have done work on Audi's and Dodges, with replacing heater cores, alternators, radiators, not too much further than that but everything I know I've learned from experience. I'm a very fast learner and will learn from doing. I'm not afraid to jump into anything blindly. So far it's worked out fine and I've almost never had to go over my work.

That being said, after I put the knock sensor on it ran even worse than before. I would barely back out my drive way with my foot on the floor. Last night I tried to leave for work and my car wouldn't even move. I put my foot on the floor It would get up to around 1000 rpms and just wouldn't move. Anywho today I took the knock sensor back off and cleaned the area real well, and put it back on. Now I will say it has more power and idles better, but it won't stay running. It'll run for about 10 seconds but before it shuts off I can get it to move and so far the pedal is right there and acts much better that usual.

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ok I did some looking and discovered that one of the hose connections on the air box was broken off. I glued it back on and wrapped some gorilla tape around it and now it will stay running, but once again I have zero power. I was unable to get my car out of the driveway. Barely moves at all, and it wouldn't move until i let off of the gas. I would touch the gas, let off then the car would move. I am actually thinking about throwing in the towel. I found a 1996 LGT in my area for $600. It has the 2.5 with new headgaskets and valve cover gaskets.. But it has a bad auto transmission. Otherwise the interior, body, and engine are in great shape. My tranny will fit right? That's just a thought, tomorrows another day and I'm gonna see what I can figure out tomorrow afternoon.
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does this look like your intake?

 

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/baddad1/2011-04-16_163643_capture.png

 

No my intake has the larger piece around the top. Also I apologize, I've been calling it an airbox, couldn't think of the proper term

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Yes, you likely have an air inlet chamber. That is part of your air intake system. Don't mind that part of the picture. If you take the plastic cover off the top of the motor, this is what it will look like if you are standing in front of the car looking down on the motor. That yellow mark on the picture is the location of the IAC valve. Not be confused with #10, the TPS. The IAC valve is located in front and a bit below the TPS.

 

This is what you're looking for.

 

http://cdn3.autopartsnetwork.com/images/catalog/wp/full/W01331653592OES.JPG

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Hey thanks a lot Idaho Subaru, I found it and will get around to cleaning tonight or tomorrow. Ivant, I actually have a hose connection that is busted. I accidentally busted yesterday but I've super glued and used gorilla tape on it, but the glue didn't hold and it is just hanging by the tape and air is escaping. The will stay running but has a huge lack of take off power. Only when it gets into 2nd gear it starts to correctly. I tightened up my alternator belt yesterday and so far the only difference I've noticed is the steering is much better. I put some very good used spark plugs out of my grandmother-in laws subaru. It sounds and idles much better but still doesn't run better. My check engine light finally went away.. So that's good I guess. I'll be doing more troubleshooting tomorrow. The knock sensor I put in was a cheap one off of eBay, it made the CEL go away but would it being of cheap quality effect my performance?
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so..yeah i'd try replacing the broken hose, cleaning your IACV as mentioned above, cleaning the MAF sensor, running seafoam through the tank, crankcase and pcv...then changing fuel filter and plugs (ngk.)... add a $15 grounding kit and that car will run great.
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Well I went out and pulled the IACV and cleaned with some throttle body cleaner, then I cleaned the throttle body. Not an excellent job but not bad either. I will go over and do again when I have more time. It certainly has a little more get up and go but not too much. While I was taking it off I disconnected everything I possibly could to make it easier. I while trying to remove a VERY stiff hose I broke the metal thing it was connected to, but the hose seems to have absolutely no purpose there is no suction, air flow, or water flow through this hose. The thing that it connected to was a dead end there was no hole or anything?
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Ok my dad called me a little while ago, now before I continue I wanna say my dad lives in a vet house with about 10 or more other guys. They all share the same vehicle. A Subaru Legacy Outback. Not sure what year but I suspect '99. Now he called me and told me that they just got another subaru and will be taking a few parts off of this one and then I can have it if I want it. Of course I'm taking it. It's a nice car and I've rode in it before and it seems to run fine. It's only ever driven a few miles a day. The problem is the tranny has no reverse. I assume my tranny will fit correct?
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no.

 

they have a different final drive ratio.

(if you swap the rear diff as well you can over come this.)

 

but if the outback is a 99 as suggested, the electronics are different.

the 99 outback has a phase 2 trans, 00 - 04, and will not swap.

 

what year is the free outback.?

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no.

 

they have a different final drive ratio.

(if you swap the rear diff as well you can over come this.)

 

but if the outback is a 99 as suggested, the electronics are different.

the 99 has a phase 2 trans, 00 - 04, and will not swap.

 

what year is the free outback.

 

Not 100% certain what the year is yet. My dad had told me at one point that it was a 200o's model but there's no way lol. It looks just like my car just in wagon form a little more sporty. However I think if I'm correct it has the 2 piece headlights rather than the one piece mine has. How hard is it to replace the tranny and rear diff in these

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