Headtrauma89 Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 You might also check your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. It sounds to me like your engine is getting too much air. The IAC gets dirty and sticks open causing your high start up rev. It might also explain why it does fine at higher speeds since it simulates an open throttle. They can generally be saved with a good cleaning. If that doesn't help, I'd suspect a dirty or faulty MAF. The check engine light blinks when there is a "cat harming code". In other words, a code that can be related to the premature destruction of your catalytic converter. 90% of the time this code is a misfire. As stated above, replace your knock sensor, double check your timing and Change your plugs and wires. Use only OEM plugs and wires. While you have the plugs out, do a compression check. Bent, broken or tight valves can also cause misfires making the engine seem out of time. A lot of people neglect their subarus until the timing belt breaks, then they put a new one on. When it doesn't run right after that, they sell it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 You might also check your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. It sounds to me like your engine is getting too much air. The IAC gets dirty and sticks open causing your high start up rev. It might also explain why it does fine at higher speeds since it simulates an open throttle. They can generally be saved with a good cleaning. If that doesn't help, I'd suspect a dirty or faulty MAF. The check engine light blinks when there is a "cat harming code". In other words, a code that can be related to the premature destruction of your catalytic converter. 90% of the time this code is a misfire. As stated above, replace your knock sensor, double check your timing and Change your plugs and wires. Use only OEM plugs and wires. While you have the plugs out, do a compression check. Bent, broken or tight valves can also cause misfires making the engine seem out of time. A lot of people neglect their subarus until the timing belt breaks, then they put a new one on. When it doesn't run right after that, they sell it... thanks a bunch. just wondering how do you do a compression test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 ok I actually looked it up so you don't have to take all that time to explain it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headtrauma89 Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Ya, you can probably rent a tester from your local auto parts store. A broken or bent valve will usually show 0psi. Post up the results here and we can help diagnos from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headtrauma89 Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 You know, now that I think about it, it could also be a fuel delivery issue. Check your fuel pressure before and after your filter, or just change the filter for good measure. They are pretty cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Thanks for the info I took a vid earlier in the day and I've been struggling for like 2 hours trying to upload it. The best I could do is upload it to YouTube. Here is the link. The crank pulley doesn't seem to be wobbling at all now. Sadly, despite how well it ran yesterday after sea foaming it today it ran like crap again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Sounds like you have an exhaust leak from that video in a garage. Pulley doesn't wobble though. The belts jumping like that on throttle is just intertia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Sounds like you have an exhaust leak from that video in a garage. Pulley doesn't wobble though. The belts jumping like that on throttle is just intertia. That was actually just in my driveway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 Lol. Lol, anyhow the pulley wobbled when I got it. It seems it's slowly stopped and I don't know why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Maybe something so small has become critical for you..who knows..owning a car is critical though, it will break you if you let it. All the lights and whistles these cars have wont let it get to a point of no return unless its too far gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 I've got a couple more concerns. The crank pulley has been wobbling on and off when it wants to I guess. When I'm in park and I touch the brake pedal, the lights dim and the heater slows. When I touch the gas the lights get brighter and the heat blows more. Also I mentioned earlier the oil leaks. The first time I checked it the oil didn't even show up on the dipstick, so I added a quart a few days later another quart. In total I've added 4 quarts since I bought it, close to a month ago. Now the oil is way over full on the dipstick and isn't going down but it's leaking everyday. Why isn't the level changing on the dipstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I've got a couple more concerns. The crank pulley has been wobbling on and off when it wants to I guess. When I'm in park and I touch the brake pedal, the lights dim and the heater slows. When I touch the gas the lights get brighter and the heat blows more. Also I mentioned earlier the oil leaks. The first time I checked it the oil didn't even show up on the dipstick, so I added a quart a few days later another quart. In total I've added 4 quarts since I bought it, close to a month ago. Now the oil is way over full on the dipstick and isn't going down but it's leaking everyday. Why isn't the level changing on the dipstick. Your having all the problems that a person has when they buy somebody else's un-loved thrash heap. Personally after reading your first comments on this car about the cigarette burns etc, I would have walked away from buying it in the first place. But you bought it and now you have to spend money on it just to keep it going. Don't worry about the level on the dipstick, it will drop, it just takes time. As to the rest of your maintenance based problems, I would get on to fixing them quick smart before you break down somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 Your having all the problems that a person has when they buy somebody else's un-loved thrash heap. Personally after reading your first comments on this car about the cigarette burns etc, I would have walked away from buying it in the first place. But you bought it and now you have to spend money on it just to keep it going. Don't worry about the level on the dipstick, it will drop, it just takes time. As to the rest of your maintenance based problems, I would get on to fixing them quick smart before you break down somewhere. Well I took because I really needed something I thought would be good on gas, good in the snow, and I've always heard subaru's were really reliable. Anyhow I have a little bad news. I left out for work today and I live out on an 8 mile back road in WV. My roads don't get treated or anything. We had a pretty bad snow storm yesterday and the roads still had about 2 inches or so with ice underneath. I was headed to work and went around a turn, caught some ice and ditched it. Now putting in the ditch did no harm but getting it out was a different story. Pulled it out with a 4x4 chevrolet and it got caught on a drainage pipe in the ground. Tore the hell out of my driver side fender and the rear bumper sits a little funny now. Also my ABS light is on and I don't know why. The brakes seem to work fine and I made it home just fine. My AWD seems to only work when it wants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 glad you are ok. sorry about the car. i think the ABS wires are inside the fender liner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp71ss Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 One of my major oil leaks turned out to be the steering rack leaking. I am in the process of changing to a new motor because of other issues. Lots of little things to fix because of neglect from the previous owner. You can find out lots of things when you take one apart! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 buy steering rack bushings while youre in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Well I took because I really needed something I thought would be good on gas, good in the snow, and I've always heard subaru's were really reliable. Anyhow I have a little bad news. I left out for work today and I live out on an 8 mile back road in WV. My roads don't get treated or anything. We had a pretty bad snow storm yesterday and the roads still had about 2 inches or so with ice underneath. I was headed to work and went around a turn, caught some ice and ditched it. Now putting in the ditch did no harm but getting it out was a different story. Pulled it out with a 4x4 chevrolet and it got caught on a drainage pipe in the ground. Tore the hell out of my driver side fender and the rear bumper sits a little funny now. Also my ABS light is on and I don't know why. The brakes seem to work fine and I made it home just fine. My AWD seems to only work when it wants. Sounds like you guys are having a pretty bad winter over there. It's all over the news here. I said to the dragon, how'd you like to have to go through one of their winters, as shes always moaning about the cold here, and we only get a bit of frost on the worst days. Down south gets a bit of snow, but Wellington mostly gets the wind. All that snow must be a real pain, and they say on the news that it's going to get worse. Good luck people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Sounds like you guys are having a pretty bad winter over there. It's all over the news here. I said to the dragon, how'd you like to have to go through one of their winters, as shes always moaning about the cold here, and we only get a bit of frost on the worst days. Down south gets a bit of snow, but Wellington mostly gets the wind. All that snow must be a real pain, and they say on the news that it's going to get worse. Good luck people. Lol, the dragon? That's hilarious. Anywho I was wondering how exactly do you remove the fender. I know someone who's got one for $45 that matches the paint but for now my current fender is rubbing my tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Lol, the dragon? That's hilarious. Anywho I was wondering how exactly do you remove the fender. I know someone who's got one for $45 that matches the paint but for now my current fender is rubbing my tire. A crowbar between the tyre and the fender will fix the tyre rubbing, or a good bash with a hammer. Taking the fender off is not too hard, just a lot of bolts to take off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Yea I actually went out and figured it out, not too bad at all, However my wife's grandfather stopped by and did a little tinkering. (he used to own a body shop) Within just about 5 minuets of work you can barley tell anything ever happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Yea I actually went out and figured it out, not too bad at all, However my wife's grandfather stopped by and did a little tinkering. (he used to own a body shop) Within just about 5 minuets of work you can barley tell anything ever happened. Those old-school body shop guys can do anything (make a car look like new with no Bondo, etc...). I got a certificate in auto body at the local community college studying with someone like that many years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 ok so i've noticed a few other things, sorry to bother everyone with more questions. Anyhow my car has no power backing up. I try to back out of my driveway when its snowy. I have to put the pedal on the floor just to get it up to 1500 rpms and it wants to die down once i get to top. Also my car seems to run crappy until it gets into third gear. When I slow down and it down shifts, the lights dim and the belt squeals, when it shifts into second the squealing slows, and then once it hits third the squealing stops and the lights brighten back up. Also if I'm sitting in my driveway listening to radio, I'll hit the windshield washer fluid button and my radio signal messes up. I think its time to replace or rebuild the engine and maybe the tranny isn't far behind? And I think it needs a wiring harness perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho subaru Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Whoa, slow down there turbo. Before you unscrew the gas cap and roll a new car under it, start by tightening the alternator belt. That should stop the squealing, and fix the light dimming. If not, your alternator and/or battery could be bad, and/or you may have bad cables and/or ground wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Whoa, slow down there turbo. Before you unscrew the gas cap and roll a new car under it, start by tightening the alternator belt. That should stop the squealing, and fix the light dimming. If not, your alternator and/or battery could be bad, and/or you may have bad cables and/or ground wires. We'll the battery is only about 9 months old but whoever but the battery in also replaced the terminals and I've had some troubles with but I think I be eliminated the troubles recently. I do understand how that could cause this but it wouldn't explain why it only does it in low gears. My tranny shifts pretty hard so I assume it does need some work there. If you've read any of my other posts you'll see I've had nothing but troubles with this thing. It's got nearly 250,000 miles on it and I think its on its last leg. It gets louder and harder to drive every day. I'm hoping to maybe just rebuild it this coming spring if possible. I know this had been covered in other forums but if I wanted to run 2.5 heads, how would I go about doing so? And also just a few more stupid questions. We're the hell is that IACV. I'm looking right were it should be and I've even used pictures for comparison. I can't find the damn thing. Also how do you check the oil. Every time I check it is WAY above the full mark but I have not been putting oil in it and it leaks oil. My wife's grandmother has a 2.2 impreza and it's the same way but hers is in near perfect shape. Thanks everyone again for all the help hope I'm not becoming a nuisance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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