Anyone run 5W-20 in their 2nd gen?

[Stevo F]

I'm curious if anyone runs 5W-20 in the winter and how well does it protect the engine internals, especially if you have warmer weather. I've been running 5W-30 in 4 of our rides (the 2 Toyotas and the Legacy call for it specifically and I started running it in my old Nissan truck in the winter). My son's 2001 Honda Accord calls for 5W-20 year round and runs well on it, just curious if anyone runs it in the Legacy? I'm specifically wondering how would it effect piston slap (or whatever my cold start engine tick is) and overall fuel mileage.

[vr4]

personally i wouldnt.

[ehsnils]

Don't do it.

 

It's not about the weather. The 20 value after the W indicates the viscosity when the engine is warm, and if the engine is rated for at least 30, then 20 will increase wear.

 

Going up to 40 is OK.

 

The figure before the W is for when the engine is cold, and you can get lower on that without problems.

 

There are actual temperatures for when each of the figures are valid. Do a search.

[Stevo F]

I was thinking it would be too thin at operating temperature- just wanted to confirm it's too thin for our engines.

[twisty]

Don't do it.

 

There are actual temperatures for when each of the figures are valid. Do a search.

 

here ya go

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/6016/rsup.png

 

i run 10w40 in mine, but i live in a desert. ill probably switch to 5w30 when i do the oil change in january tho, since it will be cool enough for it until the next one before summer hits. i run 20w50 in my truck, since it sees much more abuse and towing than my cars do.

[Ivant]

15w40 is what I use in my 97 Legacy. I don't like to go too thin myself as I don't want to see oil seaping out of every nook and cranny if seals are starting to get old. Plus I find 20w40 too thick. Mine seems happy with 15w40.

[Stevo F]

Good point about the seals also. Just seeing a few traces of oil around some of mine- no real leaks yet, but I imagine the lower viscosity would seep right on out.

[1-3-2-4]

I use 5w-40

[Sludgeroo]

Rotella t6 5w-40 seems to be the favorite around here

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[1-3-2-4]

Its t6 not t5

[Sludgeroo]

Yes Rotella t5 isn't a thing lol.

 

Fixed

 

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[ehsnils]

here ya go

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/6016/rsup.png

 

i run 10w40 in mine, but i live in a desert. ill probably switch to 5w30 when i do the oil change in january tho, since it will be cool enough for it until the next one before summer hits. i run 20w50 in my truck, since it sees much more abuse and towing than my cars do.

 

Well - I was more referring to the break-up of the "10W-50" for example.

 

• The 10W is the viscosity when the oil is "cold", and that's at one specific temperature.
  
• The 50 is the viscosity when the oil is "warm", and that's another specific temperature.
  

For more fun oil reading: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clearing-up-all-oil-info-79800.html

[mnstrmech]

+1 on rotella t6 5w-40. I run it 10,000 miles and it still is somewhat clean. Best of all worlds. 5 weight cold, warms to 40 weight when warm. How can you not go wrong.

[Kennyfvholla]

• The 10W is the viscosity when the oil is "cold", and that's at one specific temperature.
  
• The 50 is the viscosity when the oil is "warm", and that's another specific temperature.
  

 

Kinda sorta. I was under the impression that 10W-40, for instance, was a full 10 weight oil with temperatures at or below 34 degree Fahrenheit down to around minus 20 ish degrees Fahrenheit. And as the temperature rises it becomes thicker and thicker until it reaches a full 40 weight up until a point of about 212 degree Fahrenheit where it would thin out and lose protection.

 

If that's the case, then a "cold start" in 50 or 70 degree weather means the oil would be slightly thicker than a 10 weight. Only a "cold start" in freezing temperatures would the oil be at a full 10 weight.

 

We've been running Rotella T6 in the 96 LGT for a while now and it's the best oil we've put in there so far. A while ago David ran it a couple of quarts low on oil (which seems to have damaged the bearings), so it now knocks at start-up and after extended high heat running. I think a 15W-40 would suite it a little better for the winter due to temperatures already being near or below freezing during morning.

[vr4]

T5 is still a good oil with higher zinc and phosphorous than standard PCMOs but t6 is synthetic

[Bassnectar]

consensus i have come to from bobistheoil guy and many other forums is that rotella t6 at operating temperature acts more like a 30 weight oil so it will not negatively affect your gas mileage. I run the stuff and my wrx engine does not burn a drop. They are notorious for burning a quart between changes on mobil 1 5w30 as it has a lot of wax in it. T6 FTW

 

and because its a "truck" oil you can generally get it cheaper than mobil or other mainstream synthetic brands. the only thing better would be motul or amsoil which can't beat the bang for your buck of T6

[ehsnils]

Kinda sorta. I was under the impression that 10W-40, for instance, was a full 10 weight oil with temperatures at or below 34 degree Fahrenheit down to around minus 20 ish degrees Fahrenheit. And as the temperature rises it becomes thicker and thicker until it reaches a full 40 weight up until a point of about 212 degree Fahrenheit where it would thin out and lose protection.

 

That's not really what it is.

 

A 10W-40 oil has the viscosity of a 10 oil when it's around freezing point and the viscosity of a 40 oil when it's around the boiling point for water. The viscosity of all oils get thinner with higher temperatures but it's a relatively straight line. No normal oil gets thicker when it gets warmer, even though there are some that do, but you find them in Limited Slip Differentials and similar, and you don't want that behavior in the engine.

 

A straight 10 oil is a lot thinner than a 10W-40 at boiling point for water. (212F, 100C) but a 10 oil is still a lot thicker at freezing point for water than a 10W-40 is at boiling point for water.

 

Oil does not behave in the same way as water. The viscosity of water is basically the same all the way between the freezing point and the boiling point.

 

Since oil is a mix of hydrocarbons it is not entirely consistent in behavior either, but it also depends on type/mix of oil.

 

You can of course play a little with oil at home and test for yourself, pour it in shot glasses or something, put one in freezer the other in boiling water and see how long it takes to empty the oil from the glass. Try with different oils and you will see.

 

Here's a more detailed description.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_iN_IJpSIU]AMSOIL: Understanding Oil Viscosity Ratings - YouTube[/ame]

[Kennyfvholla]

That's not really what it is.

 

A 10W-40 oil has the viscosity of a 10 oil when it's around freezing point and the viscosity of a 40 oil when it's around the boiling point for water. The viscosity of all oils get thinner with higher temperatures but it's a relatively straight line. No normal oil gets thicker when it gets warmer

 

Yeah, that's pretty much what I was attempting to say. I'm not very good at organizing my thoughts this week. I have a nasty sinus infection... ugh. None of this will actually set into my brain for another week haha

[JJay03]

The W in 10W40 stands for Winter not weight. The lower the number the better the oil flows when cold. The seconds number corresponds to the weight at 212F. The oil also thins out the warmer it gets and the viscosity lowers. Thats why I always change my oil when the engine is warm.

 

Kinda sorta. I was under the impression that 10W-40, for instance, was a full 10 weight oil with temperatures at or below 34 degree Fahrenheit down to around minus 20 ish degrees Fahrenheit. And as the temperature rises it becomes thicker and thicker until it reaches a full 40 weight up until a point of about 212 degree Fahrenheit where it would thin out and lose protection.

 

If that's the case, then a "cold start" in 50 or 70 degree weather means the oil would be slightly thicker than a 10 weight. Only a "cold start" in freezing temperatures would the oil be at a full 10 weight.

 

We've been running Rotella T6 in the 96 LGT for a while now and it's the best oil we've put in there so far. A while ago David ran it a couple of quarts low on oil (which seems to have damaged the bearings), so it now knocks at start-up and after extended high heat running. I think a 15W-40 would suite it a little better for the winter due to temperatures already being near or below freezing during morning.

[1-3-2-4]

^ Nice learn something new each day! I too thought it stood for weight as I heard someone else long time ago say that, nice to know it stands for winter.

[Kennyfvholla]

I obviously know the W does not stand for weight. I was talking about FREEZING temperatures when referencing the number it correlates to.......

[JJay03]

I obviously know the W does not stand for weight. I was talking about FREEZING temperatures when referencing the number it correlates to.......

 

I wasnt sure it was obvious to everyone. Not trying to be a jackass just trying to inform.

 

This was the part that didnt make sense though when you was referring to a 10 weight.

"If that's the case, then a "cold start" in 50 or 70 degree weather means the oil would be slightly thicker than a 10 weight. Only a "cold start" in freezing temperatures would the oil be at a full 10 weight"

 

Its thicker when cold and not thinner. 10w40 thins similar to a 40 weight at operating temp so at freezing temps it would be quite a bit thicker.

[Wheelbuilder_25]

If you read bobistheoilguy.com you will see the T6 is a 5 weight oil that at 212 F is the same viscosity as a 40 weight oil at 212F. The oil doesn't ever become a real 40 weight oil so it shouldn't mangle your 'warm' start either.

[JJay03]

If you read bobistheoilguy.com you will see the T6 is a 5 weight oil that at 212 F is the same viscosity as a 40 weight oil at 212F. The oil doesn't ever become a real 40 weight oil so it shouldn't mangle your 'warm' start either.

 

Please show me where on BITOG you are getting this info?

[Wheelbuilder_25]

Check their 'Motor Oil University' I think I may be due for a refresher myself.