Omfg, it finally happened.....

[SonOfBadBoy]

 

 

On another note, would the AFR reading be messed up with a dead injector? OP, do you have an AFR gauge installed in your car?

 

Nope, and lesson learned. I will be going with a full suite of digital gauges with the build. I am considering PLX Devices' LCD gauges and sensor packs.

[SonOfBadBoy]

The question is rather in your case - how badly damaged was the block in the process? Is it good enough to be the base for a rebuild or did cylinder 4 take a total dump corrupting the block too?

 

Then it's up to you to decide, but if the car is in good condition and all the parts surrounding the block are fine then the cost for fixing it would be decent and worth it. You know what you have but you don't know what you will get.

 

And with the engine out of the bay you don't have any excuse for some additional cleaning and housekeeping in the engine bay on those hard to reach spots.

 

The block is cashed- number 4 has a good singe mark where the piston was vaporized and some good striation marks where it began to travel unbalanced in the cylinder. I wa not going to overbore the cylinders to 100 just because it will just be more safe and grant me more peace of mind with new case halves.

[Max Capacity]

HP Goals 400-425 AWHP possibly more w meth injection- if I go that route... Or more if I get a bigger turbo than a 20 g-- looking at tomioka's, or Garret's turbos. Haven't settled on anything smaller than a 20 g for sure though.

 

Distance from Cobb- 3 hrs drive time- straight up I45.

 

 

Automatic or 5mt ?

 

With those goals your right to look for all the right pieces.

 

Is the dealership the right place to have that block built ?

[rob-2]

The crappy thing is that the dealer was stunned at the condition of the motor, as the 1-2-3 cylinder and pistons were in pristine condition. They even asked me if the short block was new. Uhhhhhhh, nope. It's because when I bought it with 11k miles on it I immediately did some fluid servicing with synthetic oil, diff fluids, and trans fluid. Then I serviced the coolant and from that day I serviced the oil every 3750 regardless. They determined the failure was due to a failed injector that was 9 years old... Not lack of maintenance or abuse. I still can't get over the shop foreman's reaction to how tight the turbo was, he thought I had replaced it before. Once again-- uhhhhhhhhh, nope. It just goes to show what maintenance can do on these cars. This is my third Scoob, and between all of them I have logged almost 500,000 miles total. This being my first forced induction model, I had to relearn all of the car, plus being that godforsaken Jatco 5EAT I had to find out the hard way about the demons it possessed. Other than the engine letting go, and the aforementioned trans issue, it has been yet another wonderful car.... I know you had to pay to play, but this is ridiculous...

 

It's odd it took a dump. Did you ever run any cleaners through the system? I've never had an injector fail. Makes me want to send mine out for cleaning.

 

Keep in mind FI motors are different beasts then N/A motor. Subi or not.

 

Automatic or 5mt ?

 

With those goals your right to look for all the right pieces.

 

Is the dealership the right place to have that block built ?

 

I'm wondering the same thing.

 

Rates plus part suggestions might be to 'OEM Focused'.

 

OP if you're going for a rebuild look into oil pick up, forged pistons and the like and intake upgrades to avoid leaks (not suggesting non-stock box).

[SonOfBadBoy]

No dealer involvement in final build, all forged internals, all ARP fasteners-rod bolts, case bolts, and head studs.

[SonOfBadBoy]

And yeah i used cleaners every 3750 miles when I changed my oil

[Shello007]

So sorry to hear about your misfortune. I am starting to get sort of pissed off about the randomness of these power plants, even with keen maintenance. Why is it always Number 4? why?. It's an uneasy feeling knowing that driving and enjoying a wonderful experience with this car can be suddenly interrupted for no apparent reason. Has anyone out there experienced engine failure after a rebuild?

[xt2005bonbon]

Why is it always Number 4? why?

 

I've asked the same question before. No clear answer. Some think it is a fuel delivery issue ( last to get fuel); or something related to the knock sensor location. My tuner posted this thread about it. Even though the thread is for fifth gen, it applies to fourth.

[mwiener2]

I am putting a *BUILT* shortblock into a customers car for under $7000 with new ID1000's.

 

With a new OEM shortblock you should be under $6000 installed.

[doccrowley]

I am very happy with my Rallispec shortblock compared to the prior fully forged short block (taken out by a modded injector). The rallispec block is dead OEM quiet with the Cosworth pistons compared to the Wiseco forged from the prior.

 

If you are going to push for significant power, please upgrade your entire fuel system with the ID topfeeds and line kit, with supporting fuel pump.

[mwiener2]

Since the motor is out already, do the proper top feed conversion. JDM Topfeed TGV housings and OEM top feed fuel rails. Costs just as much as the conversion, but uses standard length injectors and looks cleaner.

[hmmrdwn]

Okay, so here is my opinion. While the car is paid off and you have money tied up in it...you got a lot of use out of the car and enjoyed it. Cars wear out with miles. Yeah you replaced major components, but it's amazing what else can go wrong. I've owned old cars in the past and still indirectly own old cars. Plastic becomes brittle, metal fatigues and wears. Some little plastic fastener breaks leaving shifter linkage totally inoperable. Metal components break and pumps fail. That happens when a car is used and ages.

 

I'd move on to a new car, but that is me. I need a car that is reliable and/or covered by warranty. Having worked on cars for years and driven them for as long as I have, I'm not surprised by all the little parts that can wear out and leave you stranded. Cars have thousands of parts and all it takes is a radiator hose, c clip, bearing, shaft, o-ring, impeller, gasket, ring, etc. to leave you sitting.

 

Move on my friend...

[SonOfBadBoy]

See that's my big fear as well, aged components that may fail at any given moment and leave me going WTF!!?!????!!! again. Even when one takes all proper countermeasures, things fail when least expected. I have learned this the hard way. My only issue is having to "relearn" how to drive with a new car unless I get another AWD vehicle. Hell I may give up sports cars all together and get a damn truck that I can beat the piss out of and it'll take it all day, just bc it was meant to take the abuse.... This is the dilemma I deal with still after being down for 6 weeks. I'm not indecisive, I just have trouble finding the con outweighing either option of rebuilding or dumping/ buying....

[hmmrdwn]

See that's my big fear as well, aged components that may fail at any given moment and leave me going WTF!!?!????!!! again. Even when one takes all proper countermeasures, things fail when least expected. I have learned this the hard way. My only issue is having to "relearn" how to drive with a new car unless I get another AWD vehicle. Hell I may give up sports cars all together and get a damn truck that I can beat the piss out of and it'll take it all day, just bc it was meant to take the abuse.... This is the dilemma I deal with still after being down for 6 weeks. I'm not indecisive, I just have trouble finding the con outweighing either option of rebuilding or dumping/ buying....

 

Tough decision my friend. The dealer will low ball you if you try and trade. By the time you fix it, you will have several thousand sunk into it and may even need to borrow money to get that done. Rebuilt cars are great, but a rebuild is never the same as a factory engine. Sometimes you get wacky things that pop up due to the rebuild. Little gremlins that are a pain in the butt.

 

It's tough to shop around and trade in a car that has a blown engine though. You gotta find somebody willing to take it the way it is.

[Max Capacity]

I guess you guy's haven't heard my story.

 

The wagon has 179,890 miles, new ej257 has 25,000 miles, vf52 has 33,000 miles, it making 21psi, the car is a blast to drive, get's good mpg, has lots of power.

Everything works fine.

 

Well ok the top two wires in the rear window defroster stopped working a few years back.

 

The car has 25,000 miles on the new steering rack, the tranny was just rebuilt again in Aug, the main shaft broke.

 

Did I say the car is a blast to drive.

 

Great bang for the buck, Oh I just spent 3000 on a paint job for the front bumper, hood and roof.

 

Koni yellows and Epic springs Jan of this year.

 

There's not a new car out there that is like these cars. Is there ? A good looking family car that will give a Mustang GT a hard time.

[ehsnils]

Also realize that compared to most other cars the Subies are actually not that hard to work on - aside from the spark plugs that are a bit tricky until you realize that there are cars out there that you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs on. (Ford Taurus V6 is one)

[Max Capacity]

The common things like wheel bearings, brakes, oil changes. Are easy to do. There is a lot of aftermarket and Tuning support for these cars.

 

Oh yea, there's also this "awesome forum" about the cars too. Everything you need to know is right here.

[Chameleon]

See that's my big fear as well, aged components that may fail at any given moment and leave me going WTF!!?!????!!! again. Even when one takes all proper countermeasures, things fail when least expected.

 

As true as this may be ... getting a "new" car does not get rid of these issues. Having been in the industry for some time now. I see brand new cars needing transmission or engines as little as 5k on the odometer. Cars are man made and any part can fail at any given time regardless of age. Just because something is new does not make it better. Please keep that in mind when making you decision.

 

Also, please keep in mind i too have suffered like most on this forum. I am on my 3rd Shortblock, 2nd Transmission & 2nd Turbo. So i don't say this without knowing your pain.

 

Cheers.

[Shello007]

I am on my 3rd Shortblock, 2nd Transmission & 2nd Turbo. So i don't say this without knowing your pain.

 

Cheers.

 

Talk about committment. At that point I'd be in tears, changed to the HULK and ready to picket the Subaru headquaters in NJ:p. If you don't mind me asking, do you do a lot of tracking? Additionally, was there a common flaw that caused the engines to break or each occasion had a different contributing factor?

[Max Capacity]

Talk about committment. At that point I'd be in tears, changed to the HULK and ready to picket the Subaru headquaters in NJ:p. If you don't mind me asking, do you do a lot of tracking? Additionally, was there a common flaw that caused the engines to break or each occasion had a different contributing factor?

 

 

Guess you haven't seen this from my Tuner. He told me about this back in 07.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dangerous-cylinder-trims-5th-gen-lgts-193842.html

[Shello007]

Guess you haven't seen this from my Tuner. He told me about this back in 07.

 

Yep, seen it. I'm actually this close to driving all the way there to get mine tuned. If he can meet me in NY that'd be perfect, but he surely seems to know his stuff and comes highly recommended. If my guy flakes this weekend, CT here I come.

[Max Capacity]

I'm only a few miles past Mike. If you guy's do street tuning, I live between exit 68 and 69 on RT84 on the east side.

 

We make runs between his exit 65 which he is about a 1/2 mile from the light at the end of the ramp, up to exit 70 and back.

[Shello007]

^ If it comes to fruition, will give ample notice for you to get the beers/ cider ready.

[rob-2]

So sorry to hear about your misfortune. I am starting to get sort of pissed off about the randomness of these power plants, even with keen maintenance. Why is it always Number 4? why?. It's an uneasy feeling knowing that driving and enjoying a wonderful experience with this car can be suddenly interrupted for no apparent reason. Has anyone out there experienced engine failure after a rebuild?

 

The way it was explained to me is tat Cyl 4 has the following:

 

1. Advanced timing 1.5-2 degrees

2. Knock sensor near by

3. Turbo over it

4. Exhaust

 

The results are a cyl that will misfire by design and runs hotter then the other cyl (on average). It's a built in design flaw that is considered safer by Subi then running all cyl at the same timing. This is because they refuse to put a knock sensor on the other side.

 

You can have your tuner reduce the degrees of cyl4 and balance out the motor. You can also ask your tuner to add a little fuel on the first few psi of boost so the motor isn't trying to run lean, which my stock tune was doing. This will further reduce misfires/knocks.

[rob-2]

^ If it comes to fruition, will give ample notice for you to get the beers/ cider ready.

 

Just keep in mind my rebuild hasn't been trouble free. I'm consuming slightly more oil then we expected and now on winter gas I'm not idling as nicely as I once was. I'm hoping relearning idle on better gas will resolve the problem.