Max Capacity Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 The way it was explained to me is tat Cyl 4 has the following: 1. Advanced timing 1.5-2 degrees 2. Knock sensor near by 3. Turbo over it 4. Exhaust The results are a cyl that will misfire by design and runs hotter then the other cyl (on average). It's a built in design flaw that is considered safer by Subi then running all cyl at the same timing. This is because they refuse to put a knock sensor on the other side. You can have your tuner reduce the degrees of cyl4 and balance out the motor. You can also ask your tuner to add a little fuel on the first few psi of boost so the motor isn't trying to run lean, which my stock tune was doing. This will further reduce misfires/knocks. #4 cylinder is the rear drivers side, as #1 is front passenger side. Any good tuner should know how to save #4. If you look at my old block the only cylinder with any issue was #2, it showed a little wear top and bottom but like all the other 3 still showed the crosshatch after 154,000 miles. The engine had been on Cobb AP since 8000 miles. here's #2 http://http//i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4761.jpghttp://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4761.jpg here's #4 http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4760.jpg Here's #1 http://legacygt.com/forums/http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4757.jpg http://http//i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4757.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Here's #1 & 3, you can tell by the oil residue from the leaking valve cover http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4755.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmmrdwn Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 As true as this may be ... getting a "new" car does not get rid of these issues. Having been in the industry for some time now. I see brand new cars needing transmission or engines as little as 5k on the odometer. Cars are man made and any part can fail at any given time regardless of age. Just because something is new does not make it better. Please keep that in mind when making you decision. Also, please keep in mind i too have suffered like most on this forum. I am on my 3rd Shortblock, 2nd Transmission & 2nd Turbo. So i don't say this without knowing your pain. Cheers. Are you saying new cars aren't more reliable than used cars? New cars are dont need new engines or trannies very often. They parts are very consistent and manufactured to specs using torque specs. Then they are tested and inspected. I might have missed your sarcasm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 1. Advanced timing 1.5-2 degrees 2. Knock sensor near by 3. Turbo over it 4. Exhaust Turbo and exhaust are on one side, knock sensor is on the other. Actually, the knock sensor is pretty close to the middle of the motor. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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