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Question about my son's totaled 98 legacy GT


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Like you guys said there's no need to pull the Trans because it's staying in the car anyway so I do believe we will leave it in the car ID like the idea of jacking up the Trans from underneath to relieve some pressure do you think I need to do that with the automatic transmission donor car as well?

Kenny where did you get those wrenches?

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Tool truck, but they're cheaper online.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Red-NR5M-Flexible-Ratchet-Wrench/dp/B002T00RLQ]EZ-Red NR5M Flexible Ratchet Wrench - 5 Piece : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

If you don't wanna buy all of them, just get the 12/14mm one, maybe the 8/10.

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Like you guys said there's no need to pull the Trans because it's staying in the car anyway so I do believe we will leave it in the car ID like the idea of jacking up the Trans from underneath to relieve some pressure do you think I need to do that with the automatic transmission donor car as well?

Kenny where did you get those wrenches?

 

Probably can get away with not lifting the trans on the wrecked car, you'll just have a little extra fight with the wieght of the trans hanging off the back of the motor while trying I get the motor mount studs to clear. Then when the studs clear and the motor comes forward off the bell housing, the trans will drop back down. I'd probably atleast remove the pitch rod, or you'll be fighting that also.

 

I can only speak of the most recent motor I pulled off an auto trans, the flexplate to torque converter bolt came off with a standard 12 mm box end or me. I held the crank bolt with a 1/2" drive socket with my right hand and lossened the 12 mm bolts with the other, but mine where not unreasonably tight.

 

Those are some nice wrenches lockmedic uses though.

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Well I am hoping to sell the 4EAT slushbox transmission it's in really good shape shifts perfect don't know if the rest of the driveline is worth anyone's time most of it is going to scrap yard the boy who is helping my son do this job thinks he can sell the motor out of the outback and tried to explain to them it's an interference engine and the crank gear essentially broke off of this motor. Stripped bolt or something, I didn't really care but for the most part I figure this motor is toast that he can have it he could probably learn something by tearing it down just to see what he's got.
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[

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Red-NR5M-Flexible-Ratchet-Wrench/dp/B002T00RLQ]EZ-Red NR5M Flexible Ratchet Wrench - 5 Piece : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

If you don't wanna buy all of them, just get the 12/14mm one, maybe the 8/10.

Hey Ben, that part number does not seem to have the offset that your wrenches have can't seem to find those can see where that would be a real advantage to have for recessed bolts and such still looking.

Thanks

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So not sure what's up with Amazon but yeah, you're right. . .the NR5M does not have the offset heads.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXTRA-LONG-METRIC-DOUBLE-BOX-FLEX-Reversible-ratchet-wrench-set-MOUNTAIN-/350927198413?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item51b4e418cd&vxp=mtr

 

When I broke one (it was the 19mm and I was asking an awful lot of it) and had the tool truck guy make it up, the replacement was Mountain, not EZ Red. So maybe search that as well? Seller mentions that in the auction above:

 

S-K Hand tools originally produced this wrench, followed by EZ Red. Now the wrenches are labeled Mountain.

 

But yeah, they're effin' awesome. Love mine.

 

You can flip them over and run either direction with either the flush or offset sides, which is really handy. I suppose the only advantage to buying off the truck is if you break one you can get it made up locally. . . but as I said I was asking a lot of it when it broke. Think I was trying to get a rear shock bolt loose and was pushing on it with my foot.

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Time for an update, I was right when I said I wasn't sure if these kids could turn a wrench I went over yesterday and luckily they have a garage with heat, they were using cheap tools and stripped the exhaust manifold nuts, so now I have to buy some new tools to try and save the Y pipe I'm not sure if the one on my wrecked car will be usable. I figure out a little heat on them, craftsmen makes a set of stripped nut extractors, I guess I'll give them a try. Looks like I'm going to be doing a lot more of this job than I planned on. I'm not surprised.
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You may find this useful: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html

I can usually do it by myself in about 1-1.5 hrs. very simple, althought the first time may take you longer.

In this DIY he has a 5MT. To remove the engine from your gt with the 4EAT, there is an access window behind the intake on the passenger side. There may or may not be a cover on it, but you can access the Torque converter bolts through here. Just turn the crank using a socket to rotate the torque converter to access all of the bolts.

EDIT: My bad, It looks like Im late to the party... well, you may still enjoy that link :icon_chee

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