DONDOLO Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 So this is the forth time this has happened in like 3 years. When its cold out the car starts fine I let it warm up and when I start driving (not immediately) I'll get the check engine light and the cruise control light will flash. The car will idle higher than usual and when I press the gas nothing happens no rev the car doesn't move nothing. But if I turn the car off and turn it back on some times 3 trys the car will run fine but the lights will still be on. So I try to go to the dealership or auto zone to get the code ran but it always goes away before I get to one of those places. The dealer says they are not sure based on my description they say they need the code. Would any one happen to know what's wrong or has it happened to anyone here? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 If it's a 2005 it has a built in code reader. Search for the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Drive by wire has issues. Your accelerator pedal runs a rheostat that in turn runs a motor that opens and closes your throttle body. Either the rheostat is beginning to fail, or the throttle body control motor is beginning to fail, or both. You can buy a code reader for about $20.00 at Harbor Freight. It's worth the money because it will fit every vehicle you own and will until (I believe) 2018 when OBDIII is supposed to come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DONDOLO Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 OK OK thank you I'm going to go pick one up. It rarely happens I just moved from Texas back to DC so its the first time the car has seen serious cold. And this morning I noticed that when I started the car the thermometer was flashing and I thought that was odd also the other times it happened it was rather cold. But idk I'm going to invest in the code reader. I appreciate the help. I'll contact the dealer and see what's the price on that if you happen to be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Temp readout will flash if it's 36F. that's to warn you it may be icing conditions outside. Also any decent repair shop can fix your car, you don't have to go to the dealership. Check the local forums for a good shop near you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DONDOLO Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Haha I feel stupid now -_- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 If your going to be working on the car DIY, you may want ot buy a better code reader. some will do more options then a cheap one. BTW, What year car ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DONDOLO Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Its a 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Haha I feel stupid now -_-. . Stupid? Why? Because you are asking questions? Never feel stupid about asking questions. How do you expect to learn except by inquiry and there are enough very smart and very experienced people on these forums that can help you and save you money in the process. Also, what Max said about the code reader. If you do a lot of your own work, then by all means, spend more on the reader. The more you spend, the more it will do (read transmission codes, ABS codes, traction control codes) as well as engine codes. I personally would spend at least $100.00 on a code reader and that would get you a lot of capability but then again, I do all of my own work as well as on the about 65495191 cars my family owns too, so I actually have two of them because it seems that one of them is always in use somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Don't worry, we've all been stupid before and will be again. Were here to help. When you become one of us, then we'll let you know when we think your stupid. Us trolls are like that... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Don't worry, we've all been stupid before and will be again. Were here to help. When you become one of us, then we'll let you know when we think your stupid. Us trolls are like that... HEY, HEY, HEY, I'll have you know.....I highly resemble that remark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DONDOLO Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Thanks guys I do appreciate it. And I'll look into the code reader. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince_duncan Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Hey how do u get the gas pedal to work on subaru legacy 2004 gt wagon its show ER 55 on dash an u ant rev it Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince_duncan Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Eny one help me Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. They cars do funny things when the terminals are corroded. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 I'm a little confused by the grammar and the situation but I don't think 2004 Legacies were drive by wire. My old 2002 is cable actuated. Maybe check the cable at the throttle body? (Maybe I'm missing something and being an idiot in which case I apologize) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 I'm a little confused by the grammar and the situation but I don't think 2004 Legacies were drive by wire. My old 2002 is cable actuated. A 4th gen is drive by wire, and a 2004 in EU can be a 4th gen regardless of which generation it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Wait, there are other places in the world outside of where I live?! LOL. Thanks, it makes more sense now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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