sneeky Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 I've searched other topics trying to figure out what's going on. Hoping it's not a blown gasket or ANYTHING related to the turbo, since I just had it replaced. Took my 05 LGT out for a quick drive to the post office. On my way I noticed the temperature rising and I pulled over. There was coolant leaking all over the place near the passenger side of the engine. Upon further inspection it looks as if it's leaking from one of two hoses near the air filter. Walked back to my apartment complex to grab my scooter, so I could buy some coolant and noticed that there was a puddle of coolant leaking where the car was parked. I had driven the car a couple of hours before without any incident. Any ideas? http://home.comcast.net/~philnguyenucd/IMG_0159.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~philnguyenucd/IMG_0164.JPGhttp://home.comcast.net/~philnguyenucd/IMG_0165.JPGhttp://home.comcast.net/~philnguyenucd/IMG_0163.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Check all hoses for cracks or damage and hope you find the culprit. If you aren't that lucky then it might be the water pump or radiator that has given up. Really bad luck means a bad head gasket or cylinder head. You might have better luck if you look under the hood with the engine idling. Just add water if you have a known leak, then you can just drain it all when you have fixed it and then fill up with correct anti-freeze. It's likely that you will have to drain everything anyway when fixing the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 B.t.w. check especially the hoses and pipes around the turbo - it might be that a banjo bolt wasn't tightened correctly or that something wasn't correctly assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneeky Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Thanks Ehsnils. Hoping it's not anything major. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 From the looks of it, I'd guess upper radiator hose is leaking at the radiator. You may need to pull the air inlet duct to see it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 From the looks of it, I'd guess upper radiator hose is leaking at the radiator. You may need to pull the air inlet duct to see it. Ditto. Grab the hose where it connects to the radiator and see if you can turn it on the nipple being VERY careful not to stress the nipple itself. The people that did the work could have cracked the nipple already and if that's the case, then you need a radiator. Gluing those damn things never works, at least not in my experience, even with kits made specifically for that kind of repair. Remove the stupid spring clamps and replace with good clamps. ALL of them on all of the hoses as these are a known failure point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 9, 2013 Moderators Share Posted September 9, 2013 Remove the stupid spring clamps and replace with good clamps. ALL of them on all of the hoses as these are a known failure point. If the clamps are actual "spring" clamps, they should be pretty good really--constant pressure that will self adjust over time. It's the non-spring clamps that seem to cause problems, no...? Over time they loosen up and cause issues. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 The spring clamps are far superior to standard worm gear clamps since the spring clamps keep a constant tension throughout temperature changes, whereas the worm gears cannot. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 I have had a lot of Chryslers over the years and the clamps are a good failure point so I generally replace them with "good" flex gear screw clamps from Ideal. They have a sleeve under the worm gear and a spring on the worm gear drive that allows continuous pressure without having a hot spot like the general hose clamps do. I have these on my 05 LGT 5EAT and no issues ever at any hose connections. You should try some of these clamps. They really are excellent. Another good clamp is the Gates heat shrink (Power Grip) clamps. They shrink initially with a heat gun to grip evenly all the way around and then as the vehicle heats up, they completely fit themselves to whatever they are clamping with even pressure the entire length of the nipple. No undue pressure anywhere on a plastic heater hose or radiator nipple. They work flawlessly but with one drawback. Once you shrink them on, if you have to remove the hose, you have to cut the clamp off and replace it with a new one and they are fairly expensive, at least to be throwing them away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 That's odd that you had issues with the Chrysler clamps. Previous to getting into Subarus, I had had 25 years in a Chrysler dealership, and still work on Neons regularly. The factory clamps are all I'll use because I have yet to see one fail. I'm with you on the Gates power grip though. I was looking into those for my ACR. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 That's odd that you had issues with the Chrysler clamps. Previous to getting into Subarus, I had had 25 years in a Chrysler dealership, and still work on Neons regularly. The factory clamps are all I'll use because I have yet to see one fail. I'm with you on the Gates power grip though. I was looking into those for my ACR. As long as you have the nice V groove pliers those clamp are real easy to work with. Used to be a Chrysler man my self. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 The flex gear clamps look a LOT cooler than the spring clamps..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee07 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Good time to upgrade to an aluminum radiator. Hoses and thermostat to go with it. Probably a clogged radiator like mine, Looked fine and drove fine until it went Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 From the spray pattern, it does appear to be coming from the upper rad hose. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 My opinion on clamps: Use proper hose clamps and a proper tool for them. Just plan ahead so the screw head ends up in an accessible location when mounting them. http://www.bedug.com/pics/hoseclamp1.jpghttp://www.bedug.com/pics/hoseclamp2.jpg Tool: http://www.bedug.com/pics/hoseclamptool.jpg Don't use ordinary sockets/T-handle since that will put too much force on the seal, and you also risk that the socket sticks to the clamp and you will be standing there with a socket extender while the socket ends up in a tight spot. Spring type clamps are so/so from my point of view. http://www.bedug.com/pics/hoseclamp5.jpg They make things better than no clamp, and works fine when handling vacuum hoses or low pressure hoses, but not for high pressure like coolant. And it can be an effin headache to get the pliers to grip them sometimes and then also move the clamp off the seal area. It's always in a tight spot where the offending clamp shall go. I see zip ties as more than a curse than a solution since it's a problem to get them tight enough where you need them and they are impossible to open when you realize you forgot something that should have been tied down too. Notice that not all hose clamps are good, the wire type cuts through hoses: http://www.bedug.com/pics/hoseclamp3.jpghttp://www.bedug.com/pics/hoseclamp4.jpg At least this is my opinion formed through experience of different levels of headaches with hoses and clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 The flex gear clamps look a LOT cooler than the spring clamps..... I don't know, they look OK to me... http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t36/danteomni/Car%20Pics/Chtear/IMAG0091.jpg I'll stop the OT now I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 I don't know, they look OK to me... http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t36/danteomni/Car%20Pics/Chtear/IMAG0091.jpg I'll stop the OT now YOU TRAITOROUS BASTAGE ! ! ! THAT'S NOT AN LGT ! ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneeky Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Man, I love this forum. Turned out to be the hose near the front of the engine attaching the intercooler. there was a tear inside of it. My question now is that my engine is really shaking after the fix. It shook a little before, but not it's getting more noticeable. ANy thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Shaking at idle or a stumble/hisatation while driving ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneeky Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 When I am idling. I had the hose changed yesterday and only drove it a block to my apartment. This morning when I started her up I noticed that my light jerk when idling has intensified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Did coolant go somewhere it shouldn't have? (intake tract?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Clean and dry the engine - anti-freeze in the leaked coolant may be the problem. Especially the high voltage parts (ignition coils, spark plugs etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneeky Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Put the car into the shop today. Initial thought from the mechanic is that it might have something to do with the head gaskets. I'll keep everyone updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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