Scooby2.5 Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 You put your fuse for the battery lead at the back instead of by the battery? Hope it never blows, cause it will blow changing it LOL PUN intended.... http://i.imgur.com/OFnObhrl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) LOL, no... I'm running 1/0 fused at 200A at the battery. Fuel pump is fused at 20A back there. Eventually the fuel pump will run off of a fused distribution block that is more accessible. Edited September 8, 2013 by Turkeylord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 So you put a fuse at the battery and then a fuse at the back off the relay feeding the pump. Why 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Reattached the .pdf on S.M. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 So you put a fuse at the battery and then a fuse at the back off the relay feeding the pump. Why 2? I used my (yet to be installed) amplifier power wire. You could run another length of 10 awg to the battery, just be sure to fuse it properly. The 1/0 needs to be fused within 18 inches of the battery. This protects the vehicle in case the 1/0 shorts to ground anywhere along it's run. It's fused at 200 amps to provide sufficient current for the system I intend to install. 200A is too large for the 10awg to be fused at and would be a fire hazard if a short developed, so it's fused at a more appropriate 20A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 (edited) [/b] The 1/0 needs to be fused within 18 inches of the battery. This protects the vehicle in case the 1/0 shorts to ground anywhere along it's run. It's fused at 200 amps to provide sufficient current for the system I intend to install. 200A is too large for the 10awg to be fused at and would be a fire hazard if a short developed, so it's fused at a more appropriate 20A. Ok I got ya I guess just wasn't paying attention to the fact you are running stereo feed or what have you to the back. Edited November 2, 2013 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 I had some time tonight, so I thought I'd go get a real life measurement. My alternator puts out a steady 13.7V measured at the battery. During a 4th gear pull I'm getting 13.0V at the fuel pump. And again that's with the stock FPCM, the STi module would be higher. Sorry so potato, but this wasn't an easy pic to snap http://i.imgur.com/rSresvSl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Exactly what I did. Here are some pics of DW kit already run and a pic of one of the pins soldered on a wire (hadn't shrink wrapped it yet). I like how the DW kit has a relay socket and also a metal loop on the back to use the FPCM nut and bolt to mount it. I used yellow and red wire. Yellow for the Green/Yellow wire to the pump and Red for the Green/Red wire to the pump. All 12GA Also SBT the red wire coming from the battery may seem a bit short if you have a wagon but the length of wire on the socket allows it to be just long enough Thanks for the additional photos. WRT running the +12V (12 or 10 GA) wire from the battery to the rear end, how did you route the wire. Presume through the dash, and under the DS sills, but if there's an easier, cleaner way to go, LMK. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 There's a nice grommet just to the right of the pitch stop mount on the firewall. It's hidden under the firewall insulation. Underdog pointed it out in this post. Here's mine occupied by boost/O2/wires... http://i.imgur.com/UHcR9vYl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LGI7dDWl.jpg I ran 1/0 so I wound up going though the fender and into the kickpanel area. Beyond that yes, I ran mine in the driver's side sill area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Excellent - thanks! - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Same as turkeylord Yes you have to have a relay so power is not live to the pump all the time. This relay needs to be switched "on" by the red and black wire coming from the original fuel pump relay. I ran the pos batt wire through the firewall at the rubber plug in the middle of the firewall near dog bone. From there across to driver kick panel area and then down the side of the car. The carpet is held down with the black trim pieces and if you just pull on them they pop off. You will see the factory harness there and just run along with it. Once you get to the back seat area just follow wiring harness to the back of the car where the FPCM is. You will place the relay there. Then from the relay back to under the seat and over to pump via rubber grommet on drivers side access, then below floor to the pump access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Same as turkeylord I ran 2Ga super Vu-tron cable and got it through with the factory fuel hardlines beside the brake booster for a shorter run, and straighter shot to the trunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) I ordered some pins and seals to try to route the new 12 AWG wire direct to the plug. I pulled a pin out of a spare connector I have for the fuel pump and it looks identical and measurements check out. The ones below accept larger wire. YMMV. I will confirm once I receive the parts. pin: Sumitomo HX|SL|DL Sealed Series 090(2.3mm) 1.25-2.0mm2 Female Terminal [Copper/Tin] 9882 http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/sumitomo-hxsldl-sealed-series-09023mm-12520mm2-female-terminal-coppertin-p-9882.html?cPath=19_658_676_681_931 Sumitomo HX/HW/DL/SL Sealed Series 090(2.3mm) Wire Seal 1.7-2.4mm2 [Green] 5mm Dia 10057 seal: http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/sumitomo-hxhwdlsl-sealed-series-09023mm-wire-seal-1724mm2-green-5mm-dia-p-10057.html Edited October 7, 2013 by Th3Franz -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 So, by doing this it gives the fuel pump a constant 100% power, or it still does the 33,66,100% power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 It still allows the FPCM to do its thing on the Fuel Pump Duty Cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 So, by doing this it gives the fuel pump a constant 100% power, or it still does the 33,66,100% power? It depends on whether you keep the stock or STI FPCM in the circuit or just rewire direct to the pump Read the last half of the thread and you will know your answer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 I assume he was referring to the method covered in this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaaaaake Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) Is this still only needed for E85 and over 350hp? Not needed for DW65c and DW740's with a VF52 on 93? I just bought the DW wiring and the STi FPCM then read the 36 page post... Great job on the walkthrough though! Edited October 16, 2013 by Blaaaaake English Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 I would say that's probably a good threshold. I did mine in response to comments from my tuner about my fuel supply. A DW 65c & 740cc injectors should ok without, but every car is a little different. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Received my 12 awg pins today. Will work on hard wiring the pump tomorrow. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 (edited) Is this still only needed for E85 and over 350hp? Not needed for DW65c and DW740's with a VF52 on 93? I just bought the DW wiring and the STi FPCM then read the 36 page post... Great job on the walkthrough though! I would do it as all aftermarket pumps are rated at about 13.5 volts Edited June 5, 2014 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Received my 12 awg pins today. Will work on hard wiring the pump tomorrow. Hey Franz... did the pins fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Haven't had a chance to install them just yet. Possibly today. I pulled the factory pin out of a spare harness and the mating portion of the pin is the same dimension as the 12awg pin. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Received my 12 awg pins today. Will work on hard wiring the pump tomorrow. Hey Franz... did the pins fit? Interested too. Haven't had a chance to install them just yet. Possibly today. I pulled the factory pin out of a spare harness and the mating portion of the pin is the same dimension as the 12awg pin. Sounds like a "fit". GTH. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Did anyone consider running a thicker wire from the factory fuel pump relay to the FCM (and then from FCM to the pump)? Essentially replacing the wiring only and avoiding the extra relay? One less thing to malfunction (and the generic relays are often of dubious quality). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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