GTO5005 Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 This is the second time the manifold to up pipe bolts and nuts have come loose, this time the factory gasket was split right down the middle, I did do a search and found some info. like using a certain type of copper gasket a sponser on here use to sell and use some type of lock washer. These posts are like from 05, thinking someone by know has come a with a better fix on this common problem. Steer me in the right direction please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Do you have a flex-joint in your UP? If not, that's likely the issue. Expansion and contraction on solid UPs are problematic. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I think that you are referring to the Grimmspeed "triple thick" gaskets. People swear by them. I've only used OEM gaskets and never had a problem. You should use lock washers. Tighten them to spec. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Use flat washers with lock washers and blue boltlocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO5005 Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Yea, I saw those Grimmspeed gaskets on EBAY, say there like 12 times the thickness of the OEM and are 25 and change shipped or best offer. Thought about going that route. Blue bolt locker, will that not make it a real PIA if I need to remove that solid Cobb up pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNRZR Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 The max service temp of blue loctite (242) is 300*. So within the first minute of the engine running it is burned and gone. So no, it will not be a PITA to remove. It also won't help your situation. Lock washers should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 IMO don't use thread locker. Get some 3/8 nut's and bolts from the hardware store with some flat washers and lockers, and a can of anti-seize compound. put a flat washer under the bolt head and against the flange on the nut side, followed by the locker was and nut. Tighten, good'N tight. I do have the Grimspeed gasket at my DP to stock mid-pipe. I got it from Mike at http://www.infamousperformance.net Do not buy these things off ebay. Get it from someone that supports the forum and offers us great help for free. Support those that support the forum. Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com is another great person to buy from. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 yea, I've never used threadlocker on exhaust bolts. Only anti-seize and it's really not necessary unless you live in a rusty environment. Generally, lock washers should do the trick there. The FSM says 26 ft-lbs for the header to UP bolts, but if you buy new Grade 8 bolts you could go upwards of 40 ft-lbs. Lots of folks say never to use RTV sealant in these areas, but I have good luck with this Copper spray-a-gasket stuff. It helps with rust and with sealing, and lets things come back apart easier (mainly, Subaru manifold gaskets at the head). I've used it on lots of engine and exhaust components over the years, though. If you really keep having issues with the bolts/nuts loosening, you may need a Flex UP or....... there is nothing wrong with safety wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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