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I think it's hit or miss on this.

 

The jeeps aren't tubro'd motors. And generally speaking Jeeps are a pile-o-shit.

 

However 200K miles on a motor is great.

 

 

 

It'a always cheaper to fix the car you have then to buy something. However it's not always wise to put serious coin into a car towards the end of it's life.

 

I normally go by the rule that when a repair exceeds half the value of the car I think seriously about doing it. This generally works on lower value cars. IE $14K car needs $6K in work - it's cheaper and better to fix. A $7K car needing $6k in work is better to walk away from. A $50K car needing $6k in work - no brainer.

 

Age is also a factor. A car approaching 10 years is going to have stuff go wrong by age alone. All this adds up. Life is short and constantly fixing this, well who actually has time for that? If you have tons of free time by all means waste it fixing cars.

 

 

 

Oh dear, I better get rid of my Wagon before it cost me more money. I think I've about paid for it twice now. I guess I should not bother getting the estimate to have it the bumper, hood and roof painted today.

 

I just put close to $2700 into it in the past 3 month's.

 

To some of us it's more than just a car to get you from point A to point B. No way could I drive Perius...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Oh dear, I better get rid of my Wagon before it cost me more money. I think I've about paid for it twice now. I guess I should not bother getting the estimate to have it the bumper, hood and roof painted today.

 

I just put close to $2700 into it in the past 3 month's.

 

To some of us it's more than just a car to get you from point A to point B. No way could I drive Perius...

 

I guess I'm more of the mindset that this family sedan is a sporter commuter car. What's probably shaping that is I already have a track car and that while this car has a GT badge so much is lacking on the performance side of the sedan and specs. Going stage 2 plus dropping another $1k into the car helped changed the driving experience for me, but ultimately had I just bought another car and put the motor rebuild cost plus upgrades I'd have a better over all car.

 

If I bought a car twice in repairs I'd be kicking myself :(

 

Back on topic - I am just suggesting a rule to consider, it's not hard and fast :)

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I'm also at point in my life where the hobby the wagon has become, is justifiable to me.

 

I have the Spec B as a back up and a old Ford F150.

 

 

rob-2

 

I didn't have time to finish earlier. I can understand your view also. Nothing wrong with that, I hope you have a passion for something.

 

My car and skiing are my passions as well as my GF and son, but the last two go without saying.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Agree with Max... Working on my car is a hobby.

 

Hobbies usually cost money. Some spend money on the hobby of playing golf for example, and get no return on investment except for the enjoyment.

BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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The advantage of working on my car as a hobby right now is that it can be done in my garage--aka within the reach of the baby monitor. I'm unable to go away for a day to go fishing at the moment, but the garage isn't out of reach. Works for me and I like tinkering with the car--learning a whole bunch too.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I think it's hit or miss on this.

 

The jeeps aren't tubro'd motors. And generally speaking Jeeps are a pile-o-shit.

 

However 200K miles on a motor is great.

 

 

 

It'a always cheaper to fix the car you have then to buy something. However it's not always wise to put serious coin into a car towards the end of it's life.

 

I normally go by the rule that when a repair exceeds half the value of the car I think seriously about doing it. This generally works on lower value cars. IE $14K car needs $6K in work - it's cheaper and better to fix. A $7K car needing $6k in work is better to walk away from. A $50K car needing $6k in work - no brainer.

 

Age is also a factor. A car approaching 10 years is going to have stuff go wrong by age alone. All this adds up. Life is short and constantly fixing this, well who actually has time for that? If you have tons of free time by all means waste it fixing cars.

 

Back to your asinine opinions that seem to fine for YOU to have but that you seem to not let anyone else have. First and foremost, I'm sure that there are many people that own Jeeps that don't give a shit whether or not you like them-they do, and that's all that matters. I would bet that Chrysler/Jeep wouldn't give the least bit of a shit whether or not you like them either. As a matter of fact, I would hazard a guess that they are most thankful that you would never buy one.

 

Secondly, if people want to work on their own cars, then who the hell are you to tell ANYONE that they are wasting their time? This kind of answer comes from someone that knows nothing about cars, about repairs, about diagnosis, about ANYTHING to do with cars-even how to clear the outside of the lenses of your own damn headlights. You're the kind of jerk that buys a new part, has someone put it on, and then stands back and tells everyone "look at my cool car". Typical.

 

Obviously the OP has the skills and abilities, the desire, the experience, and the necessary tools to do what it would take if he chooses. To listen to your "opinions" of what is right and what isn't would be a serious compromise in his own mental ability. I would bet that the OP as well as just about everyone on this forum has forgotten more about their LGT than you'll ever know.

 

You tried your same asinine attack on the thread about running 110 m.p.h. and to be honest, I would be that NO ONE on these forums gives any kind of a shit if you ever showed back up again.

 

Go back into your hole, buy some parts, and have someone put them on for you, because obviously YOU aren't talented enough to do it yourself.

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Back to your asinine opinions that seem to fine for YOU to have but that you seem to not let anyone else have. First and foremost, I'm sure that there are many people that own Jeeps that don't give a shit whether or not you like them-they do, and that's all that matters. I would bet that Chrysler/Jeep wouldn't give the least bit of a shit whether or not you like them either. As a matter of fact, I would hazard a guess that they are most thankful that you would never buy one.

 

Secondly, if people want to work on their own cars, then who the hell are you to tell ANYONE that they are wasting their time? This kind of answer comes from someone that knows nothing about cars, about repairs, about diagnosis, about ANYTHING to do with cars-even how to clear the outside of the lenses of your own damn headlights. You're the kind of jerk that buys a new part, has someone put it on, and then stands back and tells everyone "look at my cool car". Typical.

 

Obviously the OP has the skills and abilities, the desire, the experience, and the necessary tools to do what it would take if he chooses. To listen to your "opinions" of what is right and what isn't would be a serious compromise in his own mental ability. I would bet that the OP as well as just about everyone on this forum has forgotten more about their LGT than you'll ever know.

 

You tried your same asinine attack on the thread about running 110 m.p.h. and to be honest, I would be that NO ONE on these forums gives any kind of a shit if you ever showed back up again.

 

Go back into your hole, buy some parts, and have someone put them on for you, because obviously YOU aren't talented enough to do it yourself.

 

We were discussing. Everyone has an opinion. I don't have to like yours.

 

As I stated, it was a general rule I follow, not the strict form. I also do all my own work. Lady/kid/friends/family - we're busy most every day. So the time suck of an old car isn't something I have time for. Pretty sure I explained this earlier.

 

You're just down right rude. While you might not like my opinion, there is no excuse for rudeness.

 

Read my follow up posts. Everyone is free to live their own lives

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rob-2 has it right. With 190k, keep investment exposure low. The LGT has minimum wear otherwise. I went with Hong Kong for the TD05H 16 turbo, and to EBAY for the cork pan gasket. $240. Compression is 135 across the board.

Clean it, run it. go from there. I'll update once the turbo is back in. Yes. I am turning my back on changing out the motor, down pipes, up pipes, intercooler, pop off valve, etc etc. because it still runs without noises.

 

In that case I would make sure that everything in the engine is as clean as possible so no metal shavings are present in any oil channels (blow clean with compressed air), then a magnetic oil plug to catch anything that might be missed. Even if the engine runs now you may end up in a totaled engine later due to shear because some shaving did get stuck in the wrong place - like at the big end of a conrod.

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We were discussing. Everyone has an opinion. I don't have to like yours.

 

As I stated, it was a general rule I follow, not the strict form. I also do all my own work. Lady/kid/friends/family - we're busy most every day. So the time suck of an old car isn't something I have time for. Pretty sure I explained this earlier.

 

You're just down right rude. While you might not like my opinion, there is no excuse for rudeness.

 

Read my follow up posts. Everyone is free to live their own lives

 

Perhaps you should read your own posts before you even begin to pass judgement on anyone. In the post regarding the 110 m.p.h. thread, you blatantly told boxkita that all of his opinions were basically worth nothing and then proceeded to say that Hawk pads were trash and that anyone that would use them must be stupid. I know he is sponsored by Hawk with a LOT of track experience and I know that MANY people on these forums, including myself, and also on EVERY SINGLE IMPORT CAR FORUM use Hawk pads with success whether it be on the track or on the street, yet you have the audacity to call them trash.

 

Then, in this thread, you immediately called everyone that owns or has owned a Jeep an idiot as stated "The jeeps aren't tubro'd motors. And generally speaking Jeeps are a pile-o-shit" to begin with. Then you blatantly stated that "A car approaching 10 years is going to have stuff go wrong by age alone. All this adds up. Life is short and constantly fixing this, well who actually has time for that? If you have tons of free time by all means waste it fixing cars". After that statement, Max Capacity's next post ("Oh dear, I better get rid of my Wagon before it cost me more money. I think I've about paid for it twice now. I guess I should not bother getting the estimate to have it the bumper, hood and roof painted today. I just put close to $2700 into it in the past 3 month's. To some of us it's more than just a car to get you from point A to point B. No way could I drive Perius..") was a sarcastic retort to your asinine opinion of everyone that works on their own cars for enjoyment. He took offense as I'm sure everyone else that works on their own cars on these forums (BarManBeam-"Just because it's a waste for you doesn't mean it's a waste for everyone) the next post as an example. Max again posted more that stated that he feels that his car is a hobby and he enjoys working on it as did heiche and as do I.

 

And then 05GTLtd asked a legitimate question about whether or not anyone had transplanted a 2.5i engine into a GT and your response? Of course to attempt to make him feel stupid with your response of "Oh God. But why?". He blew off your asinine comment and continued on, but I'm sure that he was not too appreciative of your response while Berzerklo gave him a legitimate answer as to the possible difficulties, yet, he did not call anyone stupid.

 

You are the one that has a problem with being rude with your so-called opinions but your stupid air of superiority that you seem to try to express has already been called out on the carpet. Quite a number of people have already expressed that you are exactly what you are, and I don't even have to say it. Everyone on these forums knows what I'm talking about.

 

Read your own posts before you post them. Perhaps if you do that for a while everyone on these forums won't think of you as such an idiot.

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as someone who asked this question about 2 years ago, let me give you my answer.

 

But first, let me prep you. I had the dealership do all the work on my car until I went to the track and they voided my warranty. For the rest of the track season, I did my own work and it was a painfully slow learning process (rear swaybar replacement was 14 hours). In early September 2011, I blew my engine at the track, likely because I forgot to check the oil; probably because I stayed up nearly all night prepping the car for the track day. In late September, I habored the illusion I could rebuild the car into a super bad-ass road monster. I also wanted to go racing. In a decision that will haunt for the rest of my marriage, I chose to rebuild the wagon and pay someone else to do it. I should have checked with the race orgs first, it's not legal for anything expect the expensive classes of autox. Last year ended in July as I destroyed 4 wheel bearings, 2 rotors, a full brake bleed and 2 brake pads in 4 hours at the track. Since then, I drive the car only on the road. As a 'racecar' on the road, it pretty much sucks.

 

Had I done the wise thing, I could have bought a working race car operation that had a 100% win record. The wagon would have had bone stock motor and been on the road for about 5k with a 10 or 25k warranty.

 

If you have your own shop and skills (I'm jealous), I'd get a short block and swap the parts over. You can get a used turbo for cheap (sold mine for $100). Clean everything up, put it back together, and drive it for another 100k miles.

 

If your GF won't deal with the car, then you'll need to do that. However, changing the oil in a Legacy is pretty quick. Even dead on my feet at 4am, I can do it in 40 minutes. An expert with a shop should be able to do it much quicker.

 

Parting it out means more junk at your place, plus hassle of shipping. If that's your thing, go for it. If your GF has already moved on from the Legacy, this seems like a moot question - dump the car and move on. Post on Craigslist, $1000 and its yours. It'll be gone in a week. You have too many projects already, and this would be one more.

 

As for rob-2, I know you pay to have work done on your car, so don't talk like you don't. If you are so big on living life with expensive hobbies, why does every product suck? Does providing the contrary opinion "do it" for you? If so, perhaps you'll find more enjoyment in the general chat forum section?

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I quit listening to rob-2 when he thought the same tire from the same manufacturer in the same size would weigh differently from tire to tire and that you need to put sealant in them.

 

We all should have stopped paying attention to him when he posted that he thought he bought his car with a bad motor after his failed after driving it for 38,000 miles without issue.

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LOL the turbo probably left a dock in hong kong today, along with some guinea hens and a crazy guy with an eyepatch and a cig hanging from his mouth. Even though its the lowest cost alternative, there is a price to pay.

 

Turbo made of plastic?

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Turbo made of plastic?

 

Yeah...but it's really GOOD plastic....LOL :lol:

 

Seriously though, I really hope to hear that it works out and if the turbo works well and is inexpensive (it's happened before on many different things where something cheaper and took someone to take the chance on it, worked out great), it may be an alternative for many people.

 

I absolutely hope the OP will keep this thread alive and update us as he puts everything back together. :redface:

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  • 4 weeks later...
My first turbo from Hong Kong was an over reach on my behalf, and wasted 10 days. It had 20 pound of boost. Decided not to use it because it would have required a new intercooler. This one is for sale. i only took it out of the box. So I went with a replacement vf40 which took another 10 days. Then I went on vacation in Northern Vermont for a week. Finally had a chance to work on the LGT. It took an extra hour or two because I wanted some new m10 bolts at 125 pitch for the motor mounts, and had to go find them. My LGT has big miles. 190k but is in seriously good shape. PO had the turbo done for $2200. @ 120k miles. I will tell you the Subaru dealer who installed the vf40 back at 120k not only ripped the rubber intake boot connection, but it was folded over, obviously letting air in. Their was a second rubber boot that was folded over on the pop off valve. Then! When i pulled the pan and blew out the oil lines, all the seals and gaskets were the originals. Then after that, there was a slit in the rubber hose return on the bottom of the turbo unit, which was causing it to smoke under the hood, which caused the oil starvation, which caused the failure. This LGT's turbo made it over 60k with an inferior install. The Chinese instructions that came with the turbo stated "only professional installation". The instructions also said the engine must be warmed up 3 minutes prior to operation, and idled for 1-3 minutes before shutting down. Failure to follow would result in potential wear and failure to the unit. Summing it up, the vehicle purrs and runs like it should. I wound up speending $300 and $60 in shipping as well as a radiator flush and oil change with mobil 1. Next !
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  • 3 weeks later...

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