TorqueLegend

Fingers crossed that I've got a healthy motor and don't have to pull it. Buuuut if I do then it looks like papa has an excuse to add to the tool collection.

JP the car has a multiple issues. Big'ns are rough idle and it's not pulling like it should on acceleration. Additionally in an unrelated issue, the turbo also seems to not be spooling. I tried to get into the turbo this past weekend but my pipe bolts are so rusted I'm going to need to replace the entire exhaust system if I yank the turbo out because I am going to have to cut those bolts off. I'll end up doing a boost leak test for the turbo sometime in the next few weeks. As for the engine, it's got fresh plugs, new front and rear 02 sensors (still need to check the injectors) - plugs and sensors seemed to help a little but power is still sub par and I have a sneaking suspicion it's the head gasket. I've got a new PCV valve to throw in once I can get the turbo off along with new oil feed lines and a lightly used OEM turbo that's in great shape but I don't want to invest in replacing the down pipe mid pipe etc right now if the engine is shot. At that point I'll just continue to slowly accumulate the parts as I find deals on offer up and CL the forums etc. However if the engine is reading consistent compression I'll go ahead and replace the rusted out exhaust system and turbo and be on my merry way. The other issue is that the clutch is totally shot so that is another repair that will be done once I get some cleaner pipes down under. A/C blows cold tho...

Pm’d

sure I see what you're saying Tehnation. You're absolutely right, I was planning to test compression mainly to isolate the cylinder which cylinder(s) need the leak test but I am also just generally curious what my compression numbers are.

Hey Do you still have the Mid pipe STI or OEM?

Thanks to Everyone for their tips. I didn't get a chance to get this done this past weekend but should be able to find a few hours early this week. Really appreciate everyone's help and advice.

Well sure just don't do anything wrong and use Subaru ATF lol . Since manual lists it as 'inspect' if inspection reveals leak or leads to full service then you're not going against the published policy. all that aside OP has 132K miles warranty isn't something to worry about in this case. Anything still under warranty just let the dealer handle no doubt.

Damn nice.. those lights are hard. I always think the subaru OEM lights are way to dim. I need to pull the trigger on that one of these days. Pls update with how you like the Brembos once you have them installed.

Would they really reject your warranty for maintaining your transmission? Find that hard to believe and would think that if you're not servicing your tranny then that would void your warranty. Hey to each their own might as well not change your oil either.

Damn. First thing I would do is to throw a cardboard cutout under the car next time you park it at home (best after you drive it). Examine for any leaks or oil spots. Hopefully it's just a little leak and you can just have the CVT serviced. Even if there are not spots I would still take it in for a flush and fill, unless think you have something else going on here.

Nah I don't think so... I've heard some horror stories. Haven't been in myself but only because of the shit I read everywhere online.

Just looked it up- only manual transmissions call for replacing the tranny fluid every 30K- there is mention of the CVT but it is listed as 'inspect' not 'replace' so you are indeed correct. TBH I would still recommend changing it unless someone has a reason why you wouldn't. I changed my 2017 every 30K per the advice of my mechanic in Colorado and it made a big difference in how the car felt every time, and I never had any CVT issues. I would imagine many of the issues people report around the CVT are a result of the service not being done. Additionally a true inspection isn't really easy to do without changing the fluid entirely because there is no dip stick...

Thanks Max - I should have results by Sunday then when I have a chance to get under the hood.

I could be wrong (don’t think I am) but I believe atf is to be changed every 30k. Anyone who isn’t doing their transmission fluid is rolling the dice with a CVT that is already finiky. Service records

$9k sounds like a lot for a leggy with 130k miles on it. Maybe spend another couple grand and find something in the 60k range? You should be able to get something considerably less worn for just a little more $$. That said I would try to connect your phone to the Navi/Bluetooth prior to purchase and make sure it works well with Spotify. They generally suck and you might be able to get them to knock a few bones off. Also make sure they’ve serviced transmission at every 30k interval. Super important.

oof that back end is uglier than an inbred step child but is that the FA engine going in there? Almost 400HP?? Someone get me a paper bag because I've got a boner.

is it necessary to pull the engine to do clutch maintenance? Is it possible to just drop the tranny without pulling motor?

I'm looking to do a compression and a leak down test this coming weekend and after scowering the interwebs I have at least one question. I didn't see an official Walkthrough so maybe I will add one to the annals of LGT history- that said... Concerning the Compression Test 1) Is there anything else (aside from maf) that i need to disconnect in terms of sensors along with the fuel pump fuse (15a)? Is that fuse sufficent for disconnecting the fuel pump/ignition system together? 2) Do i need to remove the wire clips from the coil packs? or is just pulling the packs enough? 3) Pedal to the floor while cranking key to maintain an open throttle body? From what I can see online it seems fairly straight forward, remove all the packs/plugs, disconnect fuel pump fuse, thread in the corresponding gauge and let er rip. I've done the plugs on my 06 LGT wagon before but my biggest conern is making sure I disconnect all the proper circuts etc prior to turning over the key. Any tips would be apprecaited.

bump to say thanks for the write up- made this job less of a PITA for me today. 3" ext is a must.

did the dealership give any insight as to what happened?

car died and he bought a corolla

Love the 2017 leggys- sometimes I miss mine. I had the below listed nameless axlenback - Won't get you performance but sounds nice. if you got a tune it would probably give you something. https://shop.namelessperformance.com/2015-legacy-3-6r-axleback-exhaust/ As mentioned by some of the others here I would keep the stock Intake- they did a good job out of the factory, it's not worth the hassel or caessh to go aftermarket at this point. If you do want one anyways cuz it looks/sounds cool- get the exhaust as well and get a tune. As far as other tips - I would rec getting some lighter rims and nice performance tires- good rubber will make a noticeable difference. You can also upgrade the suspension tastefully, maybe lower the center of gravity just a smidg and your ride will feel more sporty. Sway bar as well etc.

No signs of a leak? Have you changed the oil recently? Did someone accidentally drain CVT fluid instead of oil? (it's pretty common) You can check the plug and crush washers to start and see if oil is left around the bolt, if not you might have a leak somewhere deep. Grnlantern1 is correct and what you're describing sounds like there is no CVT fluid in the transmission. If you've got some time you can pull the drain plug, see what drains and then refill using a bottle pump with roughly 5-6 Qts of Subaru model specific ATF (to refill you pump ATF back up into the transmission until it begins to spill out, reinsert plug start the car and cycle transmission a few times then repeat process once or twice more, until it won't let you pump any more up within an immediate drip down). Make sure you throw a new OEM crush washer on there. Also make sure the car is level when draining and filling. Note that when cycling after you have replenished the tranny fluid you shouldn't be having the issues you're describing. If on the first cycle the symptoms described aren't significantly reduced or ceased all together just stop and head back to the drawing board. This video explains it pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5xbnpTYk0s&t=919s

well i picked the car up. They didn't do a leak down or a full compression test, only driver side which both came out at 130. will update once I've had a chance to retest and have the leak down done as well.

Alright so compression test ordered- Shop has told me after 1st cylinder showed we need a rebuild. Compression was 130PSI? being told this motor should be closer to 200 by the shop? I'm not well versed in this level of the mechanics. Long story short they want to put an STI short block in and machine out the head.. roughly $6K, not really sure if I have any other options here. I've attached what the invoice would be for reference if anyone has any tips or follow up questions I can try to ask to see if I can get a better understanding i'll appreciate it.Erik.pdf