k00laid83

I got a little bit work done today. I installed my exhaust manifold and Group-N motor mounts. I'm getting ready to buy a pressure bleeder and fill it with plenty of oil. That way I don't run into any issues when I start the engine. I should be installing my turbo, tgv deletes and new fuel injectors next week. I'll also start making some of my new fuel lines.

PM responded. That's a first...I haven't heard of anyone run into this issue. We can always video chat and see what the problem is. Honestly, it sounds like an exact issue I had with my car. Since my car has been sitting it would do exactly what you're describing because my car battery was drained. Whatever the issue is I'll do what I can to help you figure it out. Almost forgot to mention you can also reach me on my instagram @tightfitfab

Update I just ordered my Accessport and ID 1050x injectors tonight. Can't wait for these items to come in. I should be working on putting my engine together in the next couple of weeks. Can't wait to throw the new engine in the car. In the meantime I'm going to order a stock 08+ wrx radiator until I can spend a little more for a 2 row from Koyo. I'm just trying to get this car road worthy and tuned with all of this EPA stuff going on. I should be able to order an AEM 340 lph fuel pump in the next couple of weeks.

That makes sense. I guess I'll find out how a fresh clutch from them feels. If anything I'll switch to an exedy at some point.

I'm glad to hear it! You can get your double din kit here: https://avojdm.com/dual-zone-av-panel-set-h6217ag911/. Just make sure your climate control is dual zone to use this kit. JDM hazard switch: https://avojdm.com/legacy-hazard-switch/

I went with Comp clutch because the clutch that was in the car was toast and it was still going. In my years of building cars comp clutch has always been good. The one I got was the same one that was originally in the car and will bolt up perfectly with the comp clutch flywheel. Maybe in the future if I go 6 speed I'll go with someone else.

Update I forgot to add pics of the Comp Clutch stage 2 kit. I've never had a comp clutch before and it seems like a quality piece.

I wouldn't say hell bent. Most parts around my area are all from a wrx and they are everywhere. So finding great deals for a wrx intake is easy. I bought an air intake from an 08+ wrx and as we all know they are different. I'm trying to figure out if it using the wrx maf would be an better option since everywhere I've read it says they have a higher threshold. Either way my car is going to get tuned so I just figure I could just throw on this intake and swap over the maf while I'm at it.

Responded back to your pm

Hi Everyone, I've been researching this topic and trying to figure out how to use an 08+ wrx air intake. This really has my interest since there are so many used parts for the wrx near me. I bought an Injen cold air intake and it has the 08+ wrx maf with it. I haven't been able to find in my searches anyone who's used the 08+ wrx maf sensor in a 2005 - 2009 LGT. I know everyone is going to say to stick with the stock air intake but I think having options other than stock is good to know. I was just wondering if anyone here has used it on their car? If so do you happen to have a pin out as well? Also, how did it go when it came time for tuning? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks man, I appreciate that! I get my clutch today and still have to install more parts on the engine. I'm very close to getting this thing into the car. I'm debating on if I should wait until I have my injectors or to just go for it and install the engine in the car. Then while the engine is in the car I can install the intake manifold. Everything is a lot easier to get to while the engine is out so I'm leaning on waiting. I think I'll have to remove most of the interior pieces to do the headliner and paint the tan plastic with SEM landau black. I think I'll hold off on that until it warms up just a bit more.

Update Over the weekend I installed the new boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. I must say it came out very clean. If I ever have to remove my stereo or gauges it will be a very easy process. I'm tapping into the needed wires to power the gauges from my stereo. I made a wiring loom for each gauge and each loom is labeled by the stereo harness and above by the cubby vents for each gauge. It's nice to be able to use the cubby door to hide the gauges. The original cubby vent was broken and I couldn't close the door. I also threw in my proclip phone mount while I was at it. Today I ordered the new clutch for the car. I should be able to throw in the engine soon. I was going to order my injectors but I can do that after when I'm buttoning up the engine. I ended up ordering a stage 2 Competition Clutch. The original clutch that was in the car was a stage 2 Comp. Clutch with flywheel. Since I had the flywheel resurfaced I didn't need buy that kit again. Sometime last year I spoke with a rep from Comp Clutch and she recommended using their stage 2 clutch rebuild kit. This was a better route since the price is about $100 to $200 cheaper than buying a stage 2 Comp Clutch. The stage 2 rebuild kit comes with a Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, Pilot Bearing, and Alignment tool. The price for the rebuild kit was $435 from TH Motorsports, Part # 15026-RK-2100. The rep said to that the "RK" in the part number is the most important part. Now on to the pictures. Comp. Clutch Stage 2 Clutch Rebuild Kit: https://thmotorsports.com/12269643-competition-clutch-15026-rk-2100?gclid=CjwKCAjwp-X0BRAFEiwAheRui-lP11O3yCYhlMbJwuZ4607eoGcve4lYyIjBgX4Yx8xppRaxfo0C8hoCEzoQAvD_BwE

Over the weekend I decided to make a harness for all of my gauge senders. I made sure to use a connector with several more spots just in case if I add anymore gauges in the future it makes things easier. I think it turned out super clean especially when you compare it to the rats nest of wires for the single gauge that was in there. I should have this finished up this week once I get my heat shrink for my DYMO 4200 label maker. I'm wanting to label each harness where I'm tapping into for power. That way if I ever have to take something apart it makes things easier to identify. Hopefully, I don't have to take apart my vent cubby or stereo apart again. I don't know how many times I've put everything back together and then taken it apart again. Once this is all done I won't need to touch anything related to my gauges again. The only thing I'll have to do is run the wiring from my senders to the harness connector I put in the engine bay. The rats nest of wires that I took out:

Thanks for the information.

What material did you use for the headliner?

Update So I tore down my double din and gauge pod area again. I was tired of seeing that one oil pressure gauge. I decided that I would pull my cubby out and fix it since it looked ugly to me. When I was pulling out the cubby I noticed that it was broken from the get go. Luckily, I had spare one that was complete in my garage. When I was pulling out the cubby I noticed how nasty the wiring was for this oil pressure gauge. Now my OCD has kicked in and I'm redoing the gauges and I'm building a wiring harness for my new gauges that have been sitting around in my closet. While I was taking apart the old gauge I noticed that in one of the gauge holes there was a plastic container super glued in place. The container was from those quarter vending machines at the supermarket lol. I was not expecting to find that there haha. There was so much super glue that I had to sand down the cubby gauge mounting plate, use SEM texture paint and repaint it with SEM landau black. If I'm being honest the cubby gauge mounting plate is a quality piece that's made out of metal. I think I cleaned it up pretty well and looks brand new. I'm very happy that the cubby door can finally close. That old one was broken in all the important places. I'll also be installing a ProClip phone mount when I install reinstall everything. I'll be working on the gauges wiring harness this weekend. Well now on to the pictures. New gauges: http://i.imgur.com/6s2izMIl.jpg

All PM's have been responded too. Thanks.

I responded back to your PM.

Who else needs an i88 harness?

Yes very good quality! I'm very impressed with them. You know I wish I had not wrapped my shifter plate. The ash tray door was wrapped but it wasn't very good. So, for that I ended up just using some SEM Landau Black interior paint and it matches perfectly. I think once and if the wrap starts coming undone or ruined I'll just redo it with SEM paint. I usually use that exactly color when I make custom gauge clusters. On a side during my lunch I decided to throw back in another ebrake I had that's in better condition than what was in there. I also put in my center console that I reworked. I found a rising arm rest at my local pick n pull and I put in a new to me rear cup holder that's not broken. I originally had that rising arm rest in the car when it was tan, but lost it once I swapped to a black interior. While I was in there I installed the new boots. I'm very happy with the interior so far. Once it gets warmed up a bit I'm going to redo the headliner and the rest of the tan plastic pieces to black. I already have STI sunroof controller, map light and dome light in black. Should really clean things up. Old Ebrake: New Boots and Ebrake:

Update I got my new exhaust cam gears installed. While I was removing the old gears I noticed that they had chips. I'm a lot happier knowing that the timing portion of the engine is all new. Last night I decided to install my new shift boot and ebrake boot. I must say the quality from zealous interiors leather boots are great! I'm very happy with them and the plus side is that I didn't have to glue in the shift knob retainer. It came pre-installed and one less thing to worry about. My plan now is to get more of my engine put together. I'm focusing on getting it completed soon and hopefully back in the car quickly.

I responded back to your PM

I'm in the same boat. I was thinking of picking up a stock STI radiator from Rockauto. I just keep going back and thinking if I should just get a Koyo Hyper-V radiator instead.

If anyone has any questions don't hesitate in reaching out.

Update! I haven't posted much in the last month. I've been collecting parts and just ordered new exhaust cam gears for my peace of mind and the group-n tranny mount. This week I received my new shift boot and e-brake boot from zealous interiors. They look great and I don't need to add the shifter knob retainer since it's already done for me. Lastly, I've been building i88 harnesses for the community. It's been keeping me busy that's for sure. I'm looking forward to buying the bigger parts I need so I can finally drop the engine into the car. I'll have to redo my timing but I think it'll be worth it to have everything new in the timing area. My goal in the next couple of weeks is start adding motor mounts, exhaust manifold, and prime the engine with oil.