fehler1977

We got it figured out finally. I had over tightened all of the bolts on the propeller shaft. After I loosened up the bolts, everything was right as rain. Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

You guys are all geniuses in my book. So, upon further investigation, I found that I had, in fact, over tightened the 2 carrier bearing bolts and the 4 bolts at the rear. I backed the torque off to 15 ftlbs at the rear/25 ftlbs at the carrier and everything is perfect. I also noticed that the 4 rear bolts have a "flat" milled into the outer circumference of the head of the bolts. It would appear that the flat is designed to rest against the U joint assembly. However, in this new drive shaft, it doesn't do that. The outer face of the "boss" features of the U joint assembly are not wide enough. That flat part of the head never engage's and it will just Spin and spin and spin. To keep things consistent, I held the bolt in place and tightened up the other side. But the moral to the story is, don't over tighten the bolts on a propeller shaft- just like you guys advised. Cheers! Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Great info! I will let Steve know Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

So the popping noise in the differential went away after I tightened up the carrier bearing assembly good and snug. However, now there's a wicked vibration between 20 and 30 miles per hour is very noticeable. Again that wasn't there before. Any idea on what might be the root cause 4 be for the vibration issue? I'm thinking it may be out of balance Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

That's great info to have. I will crawl underneath and verify dims And yes, that's the company and the propeller shaft I ordered. One thing I noticed is that I did not see any offset balance weights welded to the propeller shaft to compensate for balancing issues. I guess it's possible that they could have machine it absolutely perfect and there was no balance. However, I've never seen any drive shaft didn't need some sort of offset weight welded to it. Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Sorry. Stupid voice to text. What I was trying to say is that the old drive shaft came out very easily and the new drive shaft went in very easily. The propeller shaft is the one I replaced. With the carrier bearing. It cost about 450$ and I got it at a place recommended by one if you guys. I replaced the diff fluid about 10k ago. It wasn't making this sound before I replaced the propeller shaft. The car is a 5 SPD auto. Heat shields are not even in the car yet. I want you to make sure that the fellowship was installed properly before buttoning everything up Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

It kind of reminds me of the time that I forgot to put the posi Trac additive in on my 96 Impala SS rear end pumpkin. That limited slip additive that you have to put in with the pumpkin fluid. I didn't put it in one time and it started causing a very similar type of sound. However, I'd never touch the pumpkin in this install of the rear drive shaft. Never have messed with the pumpkin never had a reason to look pumpkin Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Good morning fellows easiest. I have a question for you guys. I recently replaced the rear driveshaft in my 2005 Subaru Legacy GT. Upon acceleration everything is fine, but as soon as I let off the gas, I hear this laugh out loud, metal on metal, clicking noise coming from the rear end area of car. Its rhythmic as in a chopping sound. Almost like a metal on metal type sound. It doesn't sound good regardless. So I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on what I might have done wrong? The old drive shaft came out in the new truck drive shaft and just fine. No binding issues or anything of the sort. Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Wheel bearings all checked out okay. Also wiggled the tire quite a bit to see if there's any play in the bearings and there wasn't any. So my presumption would be at this point it is, in fact, the driveshaft. I wish it would have been the wheel bearing though. Those are a lot easier to get to than this driveshafts going to be. It kind of looks like a pain in the ass Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

I used an aftermarket one from orielys. That might have been the problem. I'm putting it up on jack stands now and I'll let you know when I find out Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Once again, the Subaru forum has provided me with a wealth of knowledge that is proving to be very very very helpful. I can't thank you enough for your input and the time you spent responding to my query. I will advise as to what I find out. I recently replaced both rear wheel bearings oh, so I do not suspect that to be the culprit. But you never know. I will verify that before I replace a drive shaft Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Yes, as do I. Strange thing is, I don't see a carrier bearing anywhere on the drive line coming from the transmission to the differential in the rear? I see from the parts diagram where it's supposed to be, but I don't see it on my drive shaft? Doesn't it bolt up to the frame of the car somehow?? I will see if I can take some video footage of it maybe I'm just overlooking it.. so am I correct in presuming that this is a non replaceable item or a non-service item? Or did you find a way to replace yours? Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

You guys and gals. I have a question. I recently started noticing of a loud roaring or humming noise coming from the rear end at higher speeds. I replace both rear wheel bearings, so that's not the culprit. Is there a carrier bearing that can be replaced on that Driveline? Or do I just have to order a whole new driveshaft as I've heard that the drive shafts are non-serviceable? Neil would be greatly appreciated. FYI, I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Maybe the title got your attention. Anyhow, I'm looking for some good suspension bushings for my 2005 GT. She's getting a little squeaky these days and a little rattly on the undercarriage. Does anyone know where I can get some good bushings for the suspension and maybe body? Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

For the Love of the legacy, we all spent our fair share of time under the hood and under the car he's great vehicles do maintenance work and sometimes creating work just for the hell of it. So, I wanted to share a few tools that I have found to be very useful and I must have for this legacy. Feel free to add your own tidbits of to knowledge to this thread for the greater good of the legacy. Left to right 1) So, it's not really a tool, but they are a great shrink tubing product at a good price. Harbor freight doesn't do a lot right when it comes to tools, but these shrink wrap tubing ferrell's are second to none. They are waterproof, tough as s***, and they are soldat a great price. That whole carton cost $5 I believe. If you were to buy that same carton at O'Reilly's, it would be 3xs that much and not waterproof. 2) This offset narrow space combo tool has become my new favorite MVP of my toolbox. As you guys probably all know, the Subaru engineers didn't give us a lot of room to work with in there sometimes. This offset apparatus is also magnetized so it will hold things in place when you need them to. It was perfect for replacing the 7mm screws on my THV sensor on the turbo side of my 05 legacy. 3) this tool is nothing new, but I have never seen this arrangement of the offset hinge pin halfway up the flyer. This allows for maximum opening of the jaws with minimal movement at the handles. surprisingly, there's very little torque lost at that exchange, and they grip very well. This is my second favorite tool working on my legacy due to all these small pieces that fall into the abyss when you're under the hood, hot, and frustrated. this little gem always reach down in there and pick these small parts up and tight places no problem. I use this phone all the time for various reasons. It's made by crescent, and it's a little on the pricey side. About $15 to $16 for this set of pliers, but we'll worth it. 4) This one I'm especially proud of because it's not really a tool but something I came up with the other day. This is nothing more than a piece of vacuum line from the turbo system in the car. What I do is I will take small bits or sockets or pieces of hardware and shove them into the end of the tubing to hold them into position. Now you have a tight gripping, flexible, movable, bendable fastening medium that you can tighten by hand (I've never had a piece of hardware or a bit fall out on me yet). You'll still have to use your primary tool to do the finishing touches of the tightening process, but it will get you started without having to worry about it falling off of the magnet or spinning out of one of those snake flexible neck drivers. Plus this cost about $0.10 to make and you can use it for a variety of different applications. It works perfect for small screws in tight places. IT'S ALSO VERY GOOD AT GETTING THE SPARK PLUG THREADS STARTED ON THE 2 LEFT AND RIGHT, BACKSIDE CYLINDERS. I hope that I was able to help someone out somewhere along the way. Feel free to add your own little homemade tools or gyms that you found along the way to this thread. I would love to hear what you got. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

I forgot to address your question, Dave. Dave, the sensor is completely removed from the vehicle right now. I pulled it off and took it apart to see if I could repair it, but no luck. So I presume that the throttle plate is in the closed position right now. As it is depicted in your photo that you provided. Eye condition is causing the codes to be posted and as effective the performance for sure. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

I had a dog and his name was BINGO!!!!! That's the answer I was seeking. Thank you very much, Dave. So presumed that what I needed was the tgv, and I ordered it this afternoon. The vendors just call it something different online depending on where you shop. PartsGeek calls it a throttle positioning sensor. I opted to replace it, but others have said you can delete it?!? How does the throttle plate move if someone deleted this sensor? Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

just to be clear, this device mounts to the back side of the intake manifold on the passenger side. It's it's right from the turbo. If that is a tumbler, would it be in back in the performance of the car? The codes and it throws has a 2006 in 2016 simultaneously Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

Hey fabsx, thanks for the info. Ever since this part was removed, it's made an impact on the performance of the car. It doesn't have the acceleration or get-up-and-go that it used to have. Are you sure that tgv part doesn't have more of a role than just cold start conditions? Like I said there's definitely been a change of performance since it's been disconnected. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

Thankfully the car still runs without it being operational. However, you can definitely tell a difference. There's no power there. You got to really lay into the gas to get it to go, rough idle, etc. I'm just trying to figure out what I need to purchase. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

circle area is a location where the part was removed from. Two screws and a three wire harness running up to it. The one that bolts via two screws to the side of the intake manifold. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

I'm not sure. It's a stepper motor of some sort that very quickly opens and shuts something within the manifold to allow the timing to be adjusted by the computer. there's one on each side. The one on the driver side is pretty easy to get to and is visible as you can see in this picture from the front of the car. The one on the passenger side is not so easy to see or get too. It's right in front of the turbo bolted to the manifold. that's probably why it went out. All that heat from the turbo probably cause it to fail prematurely. HELP!!!!! Ha ha. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

So I threw a few fault codes in my 05 LGT that led me to a little device located on the intake manifold. I'm having hell trying to figure out what this thing is called and how to order it. The car throws a generic intake manifold runner control valve error message, but it appears to be something that deals with the variable timing on the intake manifold. There's one on the left side and one on the right side of the motor. Does anybody know what this thing's actually called, and do you have a part number for it, and you know where I can order one of these posthaste. Thank you Brothers. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

Holy mackerel. Yeah, that's a lot of differences. looks like the performance of the engine, however, maintained the same from 2005 through 2012. Something happened after 2012 and they started getting slower and slower and slower. I still can't believe how fast my 2005 LGT is. It's ridiculous. I bet it'll still do under 6 sec 0-60 with the AC on and 110 outside. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk

Done and done. Made a difference for sure. Thanks for the help, my friend. Sent from my Z851M using Tapatalk