fehler1977

Once again, the great folks at the Subaru legacy chat room have come through strong for me. Sorry for the delayed response but this is perfect for the repair job. Again, cheers and thanks for everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greetings all. I recently ran across the discovery that my water pump needs to be replaced on my 05 Legacy GT. I’m reading a lot of places that this is going to also involve removing the timing belt. Are there any special tools I need for this project? Any sort of pitfalls I need to watch out for? I bought the pump but that’s about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. That’s the one. It has a minimax on it and I always have a tendency to fill it over the max. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may seem like a silly question but I’ve always wondered this. On the coolant reservoir tank – is it detrimental to fill it up past the maximum line on the tank? Will it cause any sort of cooling issues down stream? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wanted to give everyone an update. Come to find out, it was a combination of a couple of things. Number one, the radiator cap was bad and it was not allowing the coolant system to remain under pressure to prevent the “boiling / bubbling” condition I was hearing. Secondly, with the boiling point being too low, it was forcing water out of the top of the radiator cap and that’s why I was losing all of my water. Thanks everyone. It’s worth noting that those little radiator caps can make or break a motor when it comes to overheating. I would replace him even if you don’t think that you need to if they’re very old. They’re less than seven or eight bucks a pop and there’s one for the turbo and one for the main radiator. 20 bucks could save you your engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I can only hear it when the engine is off. You guys may be right it may be something to do with the coolant circulation after shut down. However, where would the coolant be going? It’s still using up coolant somehow throughout this process. About a gallon every other day. That’s quite a bit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes sir. I’ve burped her good. Maybe it’s a bad radiator cap not allowing the system to remAin under pressure???? I’ve heard that can lead to some blown head gasket’s and overheating issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greetings my brothers and sisters of the divine order of the legacy GT brotherhood. So the other day I heard a peculiar bubbling/boiling water type of noise coming from my engine bay area. The car is not overheating, yet I do get a hint of antifreeze from time to time. I can’t say that it’s losing coolant or anything like that and it’s not running funny. I replaced both cooling reservoir caps on the radiator and the turbo auxiliary tank. Does anyone have any ideas what this may be a result of? I just don’t want it to lead to an overheating issue. Thanks. Oh yes, and I replace the thermostat as well. About a week ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes fancy and recycling on perfectly. It was, in fact, the radiator. It was just time to get a new one. Thank you for all your great advice 3rd. Much appreciated Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

It was, in fact, the radiator. The car has 210000 miles on it now and that was the original radiator. Best of my knowledge anyhow. I'd say that's pretty good. Thanks for the Pearls of Wisdom Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Does anyone know if it would hurt to temporarily remove the thermostat from my 2005 Legacy GT? I'm trying to chase down a overheating issue right now and I want to remove the thermostat so it's running nice and cool while I'm in the middle of trying to figure out where the overheating is coming from. I believe it's just an old radiator and the radiator needs to be replaced. However, I don't know that for sure. I wanted to remove the thermostat temporarily and run it for a bit to keep it cool while I was facing down the overheat issue. Does anyone see any problem in doing that? Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Hey Gary. Thanks for the feedback. It's very sporadic. It doesn't always do it when the AC is on, and it doesn't always do it with the engine under heavy load. It's kind of Hit and Miss really. I have not been able to correlate engine speed or air-conditioning functionality to the overheating issue. The car has 210000 miles on it now and it's probably the original radiator. You're probably right. I believe the radiator may need to be replaced. I just wasn't sure if there was another temperature module or relay or something that might need to be checked before replacing the radiator Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Hey there. Current cooling level with the engine cold is in between the min in the max in the reservoir tank. I haven't had to add any more coolant to it after I flushed it and replace the thermostat. And yes, both fans are working, however, they don't both always run. One of them will run when the car is this that normal operating temperature, then when the AC cuts on, they both turn on pretty high. I think they're cycling on as required. What is the fan speed procedure the verify they are running properly? Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

Greetings everyone. Have a quick question. My 05 Subaru Legacy GT is running hot from time to time. Never into the red, but dangerously close. I've noticed that it doesn't more frequently when the air conditioner is on, but that's not always the case. I replace a thermostat and flush the cooling system out.... and yes I removed all the air that I could out of the radiator system. Any other ideas on how this overheating event might be happening? Sent from my LM-K300 using Tapatalk

I do have access to a vertical lift, however, I'm not familiar with the screwdriver procedure that you speak of. Can you elaborate a little further? Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Yes sir. Good advice. Was bushings in the rear suspension are worn the hell out I didn't realize how bad they were until I looked at them Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

I thought about driving it around for a little bit and then checking the temperature at you bearings in both the transmission in the differential. You think that would provide some data? You think that if there's an excessive heat buildup at those locations at maybe the culprit? Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

No, I'm not sure. However, that's my whole question here. How do I tell whether it's the differential, versus transmission. It's definitely not the center propeller shaft and those carrier bearings there. I just recently replace that whole assembly Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Yeah you are correct. If it is, in fact, the differential bearings, I would do all the bearings while I had it down and cracked open. But what I was referring to is isolating the problem from the transmission bearings versus the differential bearings. I just recently replaced the center propeller shaft so that is not the root cause. I acquired the car at 150k, in the fluids were in good shape when I got the car. I've maintained a fairly regular maintenance cycle on all parts, so I think it's just a matter of time before these things go. It's got almost 200,000 miles on it now Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

So far, all the advice I've gotten from this form has been spot-on. Right now you guys are 10 for 10 call respective to the advice given to my problems. So let's see if we can do 11 for 11. I continue to have a small to moderate humming noise coming from the rear end of the car. It's neither wheel bearing, so isolated it to the bearings in the differential. My question is this. Is there a way you can isolate or determine which one of the bearings is actually bad? Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Yes sir. Thank you for the heads up. Haha. That was done by accident. I thought that the post add to be deleted but I just had overlooked it Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Good evening. Yes, it was a suspension issue. Bushing for just worn the hell out. Can you just buy the bushings without having to replace the whole control on or is it best just to replace all the suspension component? Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Does anyone know where I be causing these tires to have inward camber as seen in this photo? I replace both shocks, both wheel bearings, still nothing Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

Yes, however, I saw that they would not touch an alignment job before addressing any sort of suspension issues that might be present. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. The front ones are fine, it's just the rear ones are pointed inwards. It almost looks like it's been tuned for racing suspension or something Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk

So I've been chasing down this issue for about a month now. It all started when I noticed the wheels were slightly tilted inward. Almost looks like the rear suspension have been tuned. Please see picture. I thought maybe that slant was due to the wheel bearing being worn out or something. However, I replace both wheel bearings now and that did not fix the issue. Then I thought maybe it was the shock and struts. Replace both struts as last weekend. Still have camber in the rear tires. I'll also replace the drive shaft or propeller shaft going back to the pumpkin. That didn't help either. So now I've got these tires that won't line up parallel with the front tires, and it's causing severe where is shoes on the inside of the tires, as you can imagine. Or smile, I'm starting to hear a growling noise coming from the pumpkin area, or differential, of the rear end. It's very subtle but it's there. I have a feeling the noise is coming from these tires not being perfectly straight. Nonetheless, I need to get them straight. Any ideas on how to get them lined up with the front? Sent from my SM-A015AZ using Tapatalk