shralp

Another option here, (but not as good as Gator's since his goes all the way to the rotor hat). These are Roo Ducts. 3D printed intermediate ducts from a rally team out of the east coast. Its up to you to figure out how to plumb to the bumper and if you choose to go all the way to your rotor hat. Of course you do lose your fogs. I noticed less heat checking on my rotors and picked up one more day on pad usage until needing to swap out. One of these days I'll get it to the rotor hat but I foolishly cut off my dust shield entirely a long time ago. Should have left a section to mount on to .

I'd run the baby seat too but everything aft of the front seats is ripped out

sorry to jack the thread, but YEAH for track cars with cross bars Actually don't run them at the track anymore once it got retired from daily driver....

Great to hear gator, that sponsorship is coming I awfully handy huh? I'm all about doing a group buy in the future on an AP brake kit if we can make it happen, otherwise I'll look at the stoptech trophy kit this winter. My wilwood front / stock rotor set up is barely keeping up these days

Jeez Gator so sorry to hear! Things were rolling so good on the Friday sessions for you, (except for that brake boil issue). Good thing you've got a sponsor to help out with the repairs.

Thanks for posting brake duct pics to check out! Would love to drive the HDPE event next weekend but not sure if I can get my front hubs swapped out in time. They are totally done Definitely coming to ORP for the July 25th TC event though!

I've got the Roo ducts already installed and plumbed with hose all the way to the fog light ports so thats all good. The link to the backing plates from Summit looks like its doable but I'm sure its going to take some modification and hacking to make them work for my application. But isn't that aways the way? I'm mainly wondering how it all gets routed without binding on any of the suspension parts especially when the wheel is turned. Seems a bit trickier on AWD cars. Looking forward to Sgt. Gators pics when he gets the opportunity to snap some.

Thanks, hope to see you sometime soon at the track. Always wanted to see a full on race prepped wagon. My '05 is track only now as I have an Audi daily driver but its got a LONG way to go before its anything like yours!

Any chance you can post a shot of how you're interfacing the brake duct hose to the back of the rotor hat? Trying to figure that part out on my system...

Doing my fronts soon. Did you guys reuse your 14mm bolts to re-attach the hub? I'm sure there going to be totally bunged up by the time I can wrestle them off. Anyone have a part #for the bolts? Thanks!

If the GS ends up costing $900 for a IC and splitter I'll pay that all day long if it can put down quantifiable, better numbers than my Perrin does. I'll never go front mount and the car sees only track time now so I'll take as big as I can get

Gotcha. The thing is, why do I always see other guys running complete closed systems all the way to the backing plate? Many of the E30 and E36 BMW guys are running this at the track and they all have theirs running all the way. I don't know enough about the details of air flow dynamics to make an informed opinion on it so I just try to look to folks in the know As a side note, got two days on the track with these installed before the season ended. Never got a chance to actually measure temps compared to before but I can tell you that my discs, (stock size with Wilwood 4 pot calipers) were considerably less heat checked than before. That means they are providing some benefit

Looking forward to checking it out. TC always puts on fun days at ORP

Hells yeah, hope to see you at the track next season. Only two years into my wagon being track only. This is what I hope it looks like a few more years down the road Love to hear more specifics on the car. Power, tranny mods, suspension. Any more pics! Nice...

^ what he said. Also totally unrealistic to ask for keeping the engine cover as that negates the fat sized core that should be used, (a la the Process West) to get good results...

Hey FP. totally agree with you its half the answer for sure. That was my first question when I spoke to Randy about it before buying them. I was surprised that he wasn't running a complete closed system like everyone else. My backing plates, (aka dust shields) have long since been taken off and that would be the best point of connection. Can't remember the exact numbers but he was finding about a 300 ish degree difference between running them like this and not running anything at all. I've got once more day before the season ends, we'll see how they do a full kit is a bit of a unicorn as far as I can tell. I don't think it would be too big a deal to modify the stock dust shields to work. I would be trying that if I still had mine on LOL. 3" hose could be snaked around to the back of the shield although a bit trickier than RWD cars as there is more to clear but its certainly been done. I'll keep everyone posted on my findings. Guess I need to go get a laser thermometer huh??

Its been a few months since I bought them, think they were about $180 or so?

Yup, it pained me to pull the Thule racks off when I stopped daily driving it because it made the car look so sedate and helped with the sleeper look. Nothing better than passing BMW's and Porsches in a wagon with a roof rack! Cats out of the bag now though. Roof rack gone, interior ripped out, etc.

Some install pics and details on my Roo Duct brake ducts for those of you who may be thinking about getting some. They can be found here: http://rooducts.com/ My '05 GT wagon is a full time track car now with limited daily driving. Its been challenging on the brakes thus far. The front and back straights here in Portland are long and complete murder on brakes. Currently running Wilwood calipers on the stock rotors with Cobalt XR2's, (love them). Instead of throwing down big dollars for a BBK I thought I would try these first. The Roo Ducts look to be 3D printer built and feel pretty stout. I had a few concerns on fitment but contacted Randy Zimmer, (owner) and he assured me that they had been test fitted on the Legacy platform as well. Fit was quite good and install was straightforward. The inlet coming from the front of the car is ovalized and about 4". After making its way along the frame and turning 90 degrees to face the brake assembly, it necks down to a about 3". It looks like he really did his homework on the design, they nest exactly where they need to be without interfering with the suspension and still keep a good potential for flow. These could be routed all the way to backside of the rotor itself like many other systems but I opted to keep is simple for now. He's found factual, measurable results using this method and runs them this way on his rally team cars. After pulling the fog light assembly and surrounds, I discovered that the opening is quite large and should be able to accept something pretty sizable. I did consider keeping the fog light surrounds but they're barely 3" and I really wanted 4" for maximized flow so I opted to keep them off. It was pretty obvious from the get go that I'd have to lose the window washer reservoir on the drivers side to make this happen. Not really worried about it as its pretty much a track car at this point. After pulling the belly pan off and popping out the front half of the wheel well surrounds it was easy to use the supplied drill bit, tap, and screws to attach the ducts. Nice touch that these all came with the kit so I didn't have to search around or run back to the parts store. Once these were in, the biggest challenge was finding a way to connect my hose to the back of the foglight ports. I figured that I might as well see what Home Depot had to offer and got lucky! A 4" downspout converter fits just about perfectly into the backside of the port. I trimmed about an inch off the rectangle opening to shorten the depth and cut a notch out on the top so it would nest properly as there is a section on the port that has a step down. A couple of stainless bolts, one centered on the bottom and one on top and they were in and snug. It took about 10" of brake duct hose to connect the Roo ducts and the backside of the fog light port. Didn't feel the need to for hose clamps the fit was plenty snug and zip ties appear to hold it fine. The belly pan needed to be cut out a bit to route everything but it was soft and easy to trim with tin snips and a razor blade. Both left and right side belly pan pieces, (not the big center piece), go all the way up into the front of the wheel wells and you can still keep these as well, with some trimming . It actually wraps over the Roo Ducts quite nicely to provide some extra protection. Pics...

I'm with those that are looking in the mid to high 300's whp with this TMIC. Once you go beyond that it seems that everyone's going to want go FMIC anyway. Plus at that point you've got to start worrying about stock internals, your tranny etc. For those of us that are really not into taking it that far, (and I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that we're in the majority), this would be a great sweet spot.

All about a new intercooler that will fit my "05 Legacy GT! If it puts down better numbers than my Perrin, has the ability to fit various BPV's without clearance issues, and and uses a specific integrated splitter, I'll be the first to make the switch!!

Thanks for the reply we'll see how it goes today. The pictures of the actual board install are a bit small and vague on Jazzy's PDF but hopefully it should be pretty straight forward

Forgive me if this has been mentioned already in the 132 pages of posts but my eyes got blurry after about 30 pages:). Finally, (after being frustrated with no ipod connection for a few years), got around to ordering a Jazzy mod and I'm going for the install tomorrow. I'm not particularly comfortable ripping into my dash but the directions look pretty straightforward and it seems like tons of people have done this with no huge issues. A few questions that I can't see to find answers for: Since the Jazzy board is going to live inside the radio, where is it actually attached once you have the ribbon cable plugged in? The pics on install are a bit ambiguous as to how this happens, anyone but closer detailed shots they can offer for install? I purchased this kit with the Ground Loop Isolater as well. Are you guys able to just plug the RCA's from this right out of the back of the stereo and then just cram that little box somewhere deep in the dash? Any most importantly, where do you tap in the black ground wire and red wire out of the iPod power cable? Can't find info on that. Any pics or links to more detailed posts on this whole install would be greatly appreciated!!

Just blew my 5MT on a while in Whistler, BC. I've started a thread here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2852071#post2852071 Any 6MT folks feel free to chime in with suggestions, thanks.

does anyone know if '08 outback seats will fit into an '05 gt wagon??