tehspud

2 hours ago, Smithcraft said:

If that had a sun roof...

SC

Mine does… but not the vf52, and it has the smelly/weepy rubber fuel lines beneath the intake manifold. No fuel gushing out, just makes the cabin stink in the winter. You can see in my post history it was worse but I’ve at least tightened down the clamp you can get to. 
 

 

 

On 3/29/2024 at 10:34 AM, SubOperator said:

Is this you?
https://carsandbids.com/auctions/KZJvYXLA/2005-subaru-legacy-25-gt-wagon

 

Nope, I only have my wagon listed here for now. Honestly I’ve thought about putting it on C&B, but dealing with shipping and whatnot at the end seems like it would be a hassle. I would also definitely have to replace the fuel hoses before putting it up there. Something I’ll probably do if the person I’m talking to about the wagon falls through. 

Minor edit to the ownership info, I am technically the 3rd owner. It was family owned, and passed from father to daughter before I bought it. 

Whelp, it’s up for sale. Just here for now, if it doesn’t get much traction I’ll put it up on FB as well. 

Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon

Color: Silver

Miles: 138,1XX

Transmission: 5MT

Title: Clean

Lien: No

Location: Spokane, WA

VIN: 4S3BP676756311348

Seller's email address: ntrettel@gmail.com

Asking Price: $9,000

 

The good:

Engine feels strong, pulls well

No transmission issues

Good interior

No frame rust, PNW car it’s entire life 

I’m only the second owner  Carfax will show 3 owners. I bought this from a family, who bought it new and it passed from father to daughter before I purchased it. 

 

The Bad:

Body is 6/10. Some dents and one dime sized paint chip, all from previous ownership. 

Has fuel smell in cold weather (known issue). Fuel lines need replacing, something I didn’t feel comfortable tackling right before selling. 

PCV has never been replaced, new unit included
 

 

Service: 

Purchased by me 11/23/19

Timing Belt 2/1/20 @109k

[3x Oil changes I don’t have record of]

Oil Change 5W40 shell rotella, 119441

Oil change 5w40 shell rotella 122463 [3022]

Oil change 5w40 shell rotella 124431 [1968]

Oil Change 5w40 shell rotella 127354 [2923]

Oil Change 5w40 Shell Rotella  129875 [2521] 8/13/22

Oil change 5w40 Rotella 133410 [3535] 

3/19/23

Alternator Belt Changed 7/23/23 

New Cyl #1 ignition coil 7/26/23

Oil Change 5w40 Rotella 137,322 [3,912] 1/15/24

 

 

Mods - 

Whiteline adjustable front & rear sway bars

Kartboy Endlinks

Avo rear sway bar mount reinforcement

Koni shocks

Swift Wagon Lowering Springs

Whiteline Com-C front top hats

Spec-B front lower control arms w/ whiteline bushings

Whiteline bumpsteer kit

Wireline rear lower arms, adj. with toe lockout bolts

Hawk HPS 5.0 brake pads

Catless up-pipe (HKS I think), resistor mod

STI GeNome mufflers

Double-DIN head unit panel

Boss BE920WCPA Head unit (wireless Apple car play, wireless Android auto, backup camera capable)

Cobb Accessport v3 SUB-002

Stock Wheels with Continental ECS tires

Sport Edition 17x7 +48 wheels with Continental VikingContact winter tires, from 2019, low tread life. 

20% window Tint 

madrig carbon fiber rear wing, forged carbon top layer (afaik only one in existence)

 

Comes with:

Perrin Turbo Inlet

New PCV valve

ARP wheel studs

Muteki S45R wheel lugs

A bunch of Whiteline suspension bushings, steering rack bushings

2x RCM oil filters

Stock springs & rear shocks, if wanted

3/8 & 1/2” rear top hat spacers w/ hardware

3x spare coil packs

~2 Gal of shell Rotella 5w40 oil

Whatever paint touch up stuff I have. 

 

Alright, I’m at a weird point. I replaced one of my Konis and now the ride feels better. I started tearing the engine down so I could pull the intake manifold to fix the smelly fuel lines, change the pcv, and turbo inlet. However I’m not very confident in my ability to do this. I’ve read through the service manual entry, I’ve seen some YouTube videos, though nothing super great as far as walkthrough goes. I can get everything buttoned back up, and leave it how it is. 

What’s I’m worried about is how that would affect the sale, if I was going full disclosure that the fuel lines leak a bit in cold weather, and included the turbo inlet and pcv valve with the note that these should be put on soon. I started to do them because I didn’t want to leave it to the next owner, but I’m getting a lot of pressure from my wife about getting the wagon up for sale… Any thoughts? 

I forgot the most important comparison. 

 

GR Corolla forums suck, this place is way better. That's what you get with 20 years of knowledge vs 1. 

5 minutes ago, boxkita said:

i looked at the grc before buying the gr86. I'd already had a turbo chevy sonic. Grc seemed too "boy racer"...I could have kept the wagon.

Just wanted a small 6mt car. Have liked the brz look since they came out. So far, it's been everything I wanted. Except for the 2 grocery bag trunk space...that's hard to overcome.

I dunno what you're talking about, I got a full set of mounted wheels/tires (17x9, 245s) and a second set of tires in my first gen BRZ once. I think it had plenty of space for groceries. 

8 hours ago, boxkita said:

I should have canceled my membership here after selling the wagons.

About once a week, I'm tempted to call up the new owner of my black wagon and see if they ll sell it back. Then I read a couple posts in this thread, and I'm ok again.

I'll have a silver one for sale soon... 

15 hours ago, SubOperator said:

How does it compare to an LGT Wagon? The size is one thing but I am interested in overall `feel`.

 

These are very initial impressions, because I've had the GRC less than a week, and it keeps lightly snowing or attempting to snow, forcing me back to the wagon which has winters on. 

If my LGT suspension was stock, it would likely ride better than the GRC. The GRC factory is on the stiff side. Not so much that I can't deal with it daily, and it's softer than my wagon is now on swifts & konis. The steering is way quicker and more responsive. The GRC feels a lot like my old BRZ, which makes sense given they're both electric power steering. Overall I like the feel of the GRC over my wagon as it is right now. Had I kept the shocks/springs stock, or gone for something less aggressive, tbh I'd probably still like the GRC more because it feels quicker. No big comments on engine/power since I'm still in break in on the GRC and haven't wrung it out yet. 

Interior I'd say it's on par, the GRC isn't going to win anyone over in that department, and let's face it, the LGT is 20  years old and full of plastics. It's nice inside the GRC, the touch points and buttons feel good, it's just basic. The infotainment ergonomics are better than the wagon. I do like the GRC seats over the LGT, to me they're more comfortable. I have a Core, so full cloth seats vs the leather in the LGT. This opinion may change after the first long road trip with the GRC. I'm going to miss a sun roof, but the GRC really doesn't need one. 

Obviously the GRC is a much smaller car. I won't be able to shove a 80x38 storm door in it and drive home from the hardware store, lol. But my wife's forester has a similar capacity to the wagon, so together we won't be lacking for that. My biggest gripe (which really isn't a deal breaker) about the GRC as far as cargo goes, is that the battery is in the trunk, and it's massive. There's not much usable space below the "floor", which normally comes in handy when trying to transport a second set of tires. This also means there's no spare, it just came with a bottle of fixaflat goop and a wimpy compressor.  I'll still be able to get a full set of wheels/tires into the back, and with the seats down I can throw my snowboard in for a solo trip up to the mountain, so it handles my needs well. 

Looks is a fully subjective thing, I love the look of both, but they're very different. The LGT is classic, dare I say elegant, touring wagon design. The GRC is a shouty "look at me" hot hatch. I appreciate both of those things. 

6 minutes ago, WRX USA said:

Any idea why the PO sold it so quickly? I am the second owner of a 2020 Tacoma with a similar story that I bought in July 2020 with 351 miles. The dealership said they traded it in on a Supra.

No one I talked to at the dealership knew the story. It was sold in southern Oregon and ended up here in eastern Washington, with not enough miles to have made the drive itself. It’ll remain a mystery unless I decide to track down the sales manager. 

Well… I did something not to my Legacy, which means the Legacy will soon be up for sale. I still have a couple mechanical things I want to do before I put it up. 
 

The wife and I agreed that we could add a car payment back into our finances, so I just picked up a “used” ‘23 GR Corolla with 270 miles. This car has been a dream car of mine since before it was officially announced. No good pictures yet because it’s been rainy yesterday and today.
 

 I’ll be sad to see my wagon go, but I hope I can pass it on to a fellow enthusiast. 

 

On 2/23/2024 at 5:26 PM, Bobsyouruncl said:

Can't tell if you're joking or not. 

Only partially. I need to swap the Koni insert in one of my fronts soon. But if I don't like what I find when I tear it down, or think it's going to fail again soon, I'll be on the hunt for some Bilsteins. 

It was said in the paragraph above those sizes, the highlighted offset is the closest to the stock scrub radius. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_radius

I’m guessing the range is just what is/was commercially available  

 

4 hours ago, Bobsyouruncl said:

Couple days ago but put coilovers on the car and got some negative camber. Loving them so far. 

I might be interested in taking those bilsteins off your hands

Qlispe Raceway does have track days, they're held by Turn2 Lapping (https://www.motorsportreg.com/orgs/turn-2-lapping). I haven't been yet, but a coworker did one last year as a complete novice and really enjoyed it. 

21 minutes ago, Bobsyouruncl said:

@tehspud Where would a guy get a helmet around these parts? 

I don't actually know, I've mostly figured out my head fits best in Bell & Pyrotect helmets and get mine online. I did search the asnw group for that question though, and here's some answers for spokane local shops that carry them: 

- Westside Motorsports

- Cycle Gear

- Impel Motorsports (allegedly carries Pyrotect)

- The General Store

- Spokane Powersports

 

If you want to do track days as well as autocross, a full face Snell SA rated helmet is the way to go. There's usually a little decal that says "snell" on the outside back of the helmet, but the rating sticker can be found inside the helmet underneath the lining on the side or back (random picture from the internet)

@Bobsyouruncl to answer a previous question, I’m using Whiteline sway bars and kartboy endlinks. 24mm adjustable front and 22mm adj rear. Been a good setup for me. 

This breaks down the registration process for ASNW. https://asnw.org/registration/ I don’t think they take day of walk ups anymore, So definitely register online before race day. There’s a novice info section on the website somewhere, too, but boxita got it mostly right. Be prepared for whatever the weather will be, bring plenty of water and lunch, a folding chair is handy, decent shoes you can walk fast/jog in for the work assignment. Having your own helmet is nice, but this club (and most) have loaners available. Snell M or SA rated for the most recent year, currently 2020. They will have a guided course walk in the morning for novices, one of the club officers will take you through and give you pointers for sections, and clear up any confusion you might have about where the course goes. 
 

On classing, boxita might be behind the times here. A few years ago the SCCA introduced a category with very open allowances, but limited to 200 treadwear “street tires”, no racing slicks allowed, called Extreme Street (or Xtreme Street). It’s mostly geared towards people who already have heavily modified cars not built specifically to the autocross rulebook. It has XA, XB, and XU. Our cars fit in XA.  Locally it’s great, no one is trying to gain every advantage they can from an open rule set, they’re just trying to drive the car they already have.
https://www.scca.com/downloads/70320-2024-cam-and-xtreme-rules-changes-formated/download

Go out, don’t be intimidated by anyone or other cars, just try to improve your own times that day, and then the next and the next. I’m trying to get out to more events this year, so keep an eye out for a silver wagon registered. 

1 minute ago, Bobsyouruncl said:

Hey thanks for that information. I will contact them.

I assume you are around Spokane? I am interested in trying some autocross and am not sure where to start around here, having never done it. Would you be able to give me any direction in that arena? 

Yeah, I'm also in Spokane. Autosports NW is the only club in the Spo/C'dA area that hosts autocrosses. They have a old runway site up in Deer Park. https://asnw.org/events/ is the event calander for this year. They also have an active facebook group where you can ask questions and whatnot, search for "Autosports Northwest" the picture is of a yellow s2000. Super friendly bunch. ASNW's events are all-day, so you'll get morning and afternoon runs, usually 8-10 total depending on how many people show up. You can run in the novice class your first weekend, that'll make you a bit more visible to the folks that can ride along and give you pointers in-car. 

The SCCA rulebook can be super frustrating to navigate as far as figuring out what class your car is. I'm pretty sure you've done a bunch of engine stuff, including different turbo, right? I think we can shortcut it to say you'd be best classed in "XA". But let me know, I'm a self-professed "rules nerd" so I can guide you through that as well. 

 

There's also Sand and Sage Sports Car Club down in the Tri-Cities. I haven't ran with them yet, though so I can't say much about their events. 

Advanced Auto Fabrication up in Deer Park can do alignment & corner balancing. I think Anderson Motorsports can as well, he did my alignment when I switched from stock to my koni/swift setup, pretty sure he had scales to do balancing as well. Those are the two I know of, through the local autocross club. 

PM'd

I have enough other stuff to do that pulling the manifold will make easier that I’ll just set a weekend in the spring to get it all done, and replace those hoses and put better clamps on them and safety wire it. Just go full nuclear option. 

23 minutes ago, ssbtech said:

Holy crap, that's a full on leak!  
That's actually fairly easy to fix.  My photo earlier in this thread (https://www.legacygt.com/topic/124818-fuel-line-leaking-how-to-access-clamp/#comment-2810256) shows that clamp that's leaking.  

Get some M4 0.7 wingnuts and thread it onto the upside-down bolt securing the clamp to the hose/pipe.  A wingnut driver will make this easier too.  

In my picture, I threaded on a couple of nuts to jam the wingnut to the clamp bolt, but for the second one I had to repair I had too little space and instead used a dab of red loctite.  Let that sit for a couple of hours, then you'll have the wingnut secured to the bolt sufficiently that you can turn it to tighten the clamp.  

 

 

 

I'll definitely look into doing this. I just went back out and managed to get my smallest vice grips onto the clamp fastener, and painstakingly tighten it 1/8 turn at a time. Didn't see any leaking on startup, I've got to do a short drive in a bit, so we'll see after that. 

35 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Oof.  That's fuel?  That should stay inside the engine.  Although, the cold does weird things to rubber parts.  Likely some seals have aged and contracted enough to no longer do their job?  Good news about those is they're all on the topside at least.

On the plus side, the engine didn't sound bad.  Did the oil light go off when you ran it like that (assuming that vid was after the oil change)?

Yeah, oil light went out a few seconds after starting up. I did the full throttle cranking trick to help circulate it a bit first. Looking around that hose to hardline is known to leak a bit in low temps, but that's more than just a drip or two! I don't really want to take off the intake manifold to get to that spot to seal it up, but I might have to. 

 

I just took my smallest vice grip, got it on that clamp screw, gave it an 1/8th turn, rinse and repeat for a bit. Started up, not looking like it's leaking, we'll see.