Febreze Mee

I think I might dig out my spare OEM hatch struts this summer too. I have way to much to do to the car. Good finds @alex0856.

You could achieve your minimum post count much quicker if you introduced yourself in the "New Member" section, and contributed a little to the forum.

But your exterior looks so good without it Def a fan of the OEM optional spoiler with 3rd brake light.

Let us know what caused the knock, if you come to find out.

Oh no! Time for a new engine.

Welcome to the forums Livanda! Please take some time to visit the New Members section and give a small intro. As for alternative temp sensor locations, I have an auxiliary coolant temp gauge mounted, and I plumbed into the back of the coolant cross over pipe. I, too, wanted to maintain my factory coolant temp sensor. On the pipe, catty-corner on the other side of the factory sensor, you will find additional metal real estate from the casting. This proved to be a great spot to drill and tap for 1/8 PT sending unit. If you decided to go another route, any one of the ports you plug a block heater into would suffice, so long as you had the right conversion plug to fill it, so the new plug could take a temp sensor. Here is an example of what my set up looks like for my water temp gauge: Coolant temp gauge circled in yellow above. The red circle is where I tapped. And the red arrow shows the route I took with the wires.

Ooh, an easy answer. Yes! Sell it, and get "a used WRX Impreza with a 5 or 6-speed manual transmission in mint or pristine condition."

I knew you were close, but I didn't know you were that close. Puyallup here too. And now that you mention it, I KNOW I've seen you on 512, bc I've only ever seen one Spec B in the area. Is your either Spec B DGM or BSM?

I like milkruns.

Classic! The above should help. I had replaced my passenger side last fall, and had referenced this, and parts.subaru.com, for PN#s.

Fun fact: 2006 Outback 2.5i's also come with the same PN# of the desired STi pan. If you wanted one dirt cheap, I'm sure you could find one in a Pick n Pull. I, too, grabbed my KB pick up and baffle under a packaged deal.

I def prefer your car without the garnishes.

Wow! Tons of activity in here last weekend. It's nice to see all the updates, and activity increase from some of the older members. Ye lads be needin' to hold fast. Ay! Indeed, the storm of [electric] Currents draws nigh. T'would be a shame to not own a classic well into it's 30's. Curious to see how yours turn out. I really wanted to do this last year, but did not have the time, and completely FUBAR'd my spare.

Black interior? Do you have the extending armrest? Is the condition of the armrest cover perfect/near perfect? Pics?

*Eyes closed *Hands on ears* *Murmurs* I don't need it. I don't need it. I do not need it. I. Do. Not. Need. It.

I love this for us!

Please post plenty of pictures when finished?

+1 for 425 Motorsports. Even giving Judson from 425 a call while trying on helmets can be very enlightening, very knowledgeable.

That was such a fun day! Here's @boxkita 's GR86 from that day.

@boxkita will be the best source. Though I'm sure calling any of the shops still standing in the PNW Shops thread, found in the PNW section, could be a good start too.

Going to be in the market for calipers soon, and will be holding out for a couple more months on an update here, before deciding for Cadillac Brembos.

I'll say!

I love this man!

I like going to the dealer too. And I imagine they're heads exploded bc they don't own any S402-anything, themselves. I'm very meticulous, and anal-retentive, and particular about the things I do, and the way I do them. I think one of my favorite things to do is enjoy my own things and accidentally discover that I'm incidentally spiting someone, bc I will lean into it.

Costs/Budget $3000-$4000 is a tight budget. Depending on how firm you are, you may have to forgo some items on the list. I picked up a "dressed" long block for my car from Sunwest Automotive for $3000. Sunwest has a "dressed" long block for you at about $4000. With reliability being my goal, and my car being a year-round, all conditions, all-terrain vehicle I had for similar performance goals. To be transparent, it costs me $5100 in parts alone (I did all the labor) for a brand new engine, Fluid Dampr, Killer B P/U & baffle, Defi Gauges (Water temp, Oil temp, Oil pressure), a complete oil cooler set up, new OCVs, new hoses, spark plugs/wires, and thermostat. Everything that's listed and isn't aftermarket, is OEM sourced from a very friendly Subaru dealer, or the wholesale Subaru sites. That $5100 does NOT include tax, fluids, gasket/o-ring kit, motor mounts, oil catch can(s) or the $10's of dollars I rounded down just to output a guaranteed minimum that I paid. I reused my injectors and throttle body. You have a turbo, and two extra cams, so add another $1000 for the long block. You also are rebuilding the turbo, add another $1000 (or whatever @JmP6889928 charges) for a rebuild and associated parts. Parts I'm not sure how the stock fuel pump holds to a factory engine with factory horsepower goals. If when cleaning up the factory map in tuning stresses the pump, I also ship the idea of the AVO drop-in @BoozeRS05 mentioned. ARP studs are a nice and proven drop-in unit. The factory oil pan (if 2006MY+) does the job you need it to. 2006MY+ have the STi pans with better baffling. Also as @BoozeRS05 said, it could be beneficial to throw a fuel pressure gauge, in line between the filter and rails. I'd recommend having a way to read out oil temp and oil pressure. If the Cobb AP doesn't output that info, plumb it so it does, or add your own gauge(s). It doesn't have to be a Defi single DIN triple gauge cluster, I'm just picky —and picky can add up. I'm excited for you!