SageAbkatsor

I came to this conclusion today. Thank you though, for the response and the pictures. You confirmed what I suspected in that the connectors with no guides work just fine. It does seem like there are some connectors out there that do have the guides though, as there are plenty of pictures on vendor websites of them. Whether or not you can actually get them anymore is another story. These may just be old pictures... Ultimately I just want to clear this up and get the part numbers correctly documented on these forums in case anyone else ran into this. My hunch is that the 91.3 has superseded the 90.3 connector and pretty much everyone carries the 91.3 connector now and some of them just happen to list them as the 90.3 part number because it makes no difference. I don't think it is a question I will get a final answer to, but I may reach out to Injector Dynamics just as one final last ditch effort. Even though I know it doesn't matter, I would actually prefer to get the connectors with the guides. Just my OCD. But also, if there is an option, I want to find out and help add some information to this community (even if it is not information that has any particular value).

The buzzing at start up is likely your exhaust heat shields. That is super common. There are a few simple ways to fix that, depending on where the rattle is. Yeah we had a special tool to hold the crank pulley while you torque it. I think you could probably fashion up something makeshift to do the same... Yeah, you can definitely hold off on the Headgaskets. The other side of it is even when they do leak, that is all it is usually, an oil leak. Only occasionally did we see an issue where the car would overheat because the cooling passages were compromised. I saw a lot of cars with leaking headgaskets that people just kept driving. and they didn't usually have issues as long as they maintained their oil level. Obviously I don't recommend that, but these engines are pretty resilient as long as they stay lubricated with clean oil and do not overheat. The headgasket issue no longer persists on Subaru's new FA and FB engines, though now it is usually the cam carriers that leak. But I think there were several contributing factors as to why all of the belt driven EJ motors leaked.. I think electrolysis was a big contributor, because the two ground straps often failed. I think the headgasket material was a big contributor obviously, which is why the MLS gaskets help to resolve the issue. I think it is also just the boxer design, where oil just sits on that gasket at all times in a way that other engine designs don't see. And I think it is also oil change intervals. The more often that you do it, the less chance the oil has to lower its PH, becoming more acidic. That is why you are probably not seeing any issues. Your ground straps are probably still intact, and the vehicle was well maintained so it probably had a consistent OCI. Often those older folks were low mileage drivers and so would change oil by time and not mileage. That is where people get into trouble. If you change oil every 3500 miles but it takes over a year to get there, you are not changing often enough. Changing once a year is not even enough. 6 months for synthetic and 3 months for conventional is what Subaru recommended. I never saw it as a major issue or design flaw though. If you have to drop a couple grand to go 100k with little to no issues. It is a pretty good return on investment.

I picked up a few gallons of elbow grease at Fleet Farm on sale. Worth it, haha

EDIT: Short answer is that brake clean would work well, though I had it clean before I got my hands on brake clean. So I did not plan things very well... Did not have enough supplies on my first day. No brake clean, no wire brushes, nothing. Started with paper towels, that was not working well but I got some of the thickest grease cleaned up, especially on the lower passenger side. On my way to throw some paper towels away, I found a piece of wood from a pallet that was pointed on one end and flat on the other. This worked pretty well to scrape off the thick layers of grease and clutch material. The pointed end was able to get into the small points of where the ridges are towards the center of the bell housing, and the flat part works well everywhere else that it will actually fit into. But that could only get me so far. Mind you, I am doing all of this about 100 feet from my old work so all I want to do is go get a big thing of brake clean from one of the techs and spray it all down, but I am trying my best not to rely on shop supplies from a place I no longer work. Still the parts manager says I should get a wire brush and scotch pad. Once the service manager left I grabbed one of each. I wanted to save the scotch bright for everything else that was not nasty, so I went to town with the wire brush. This got me down to the aluminum but it was still pretty nasty. Right at the end of the day, I remember I have MAF cleaner in the back of the car. I grab that and that finishes the job in short order. My wire brush was pretty gummed up with grease and clutch material at this point so I also used my MAF cleaner to clean up my wire brush. Used the rest to hit some of the worst parts of the crossmember and where the axles were slinging grease onto the power steering lines. Obviously pretty stupid use of MAF cleaner as it is pretty expensive to use as brake clean. Day two I went and bought a two cans of brake clean (and a can of MAF cleaner to replace the one I used on day one), and brought some nylon brushes I use for cleaning guns. If I had to go back, knowing what I know now, I would have bought 5 or more cans of brake clean the first day, 2 scotch bright pads, and probably 4 wire brushes. I would also have bought better tools for dusting. A vacuum and an air compressor would have helped immensely as well. Compressed air would have been the most valuable addition though, I don't think a vaccuum would have done much, but it would be nice to hit the liner that protects the firewall as I still dont feel I was able to adequately clean that. I tried dusting it sort of but it kind of just frays and falls apart. Over the course of 3 days I used about a half roll of paper towels, 1 toothbrush sized wire brush, 1 scotch pad, 2 cans of brake clean, 1 can of MAF cleaner that was nearly full, about 6 toothbrush sized nylon brushes, and a tiny amount of soapy water in a spray bottle. Having more supplies, and a better game plan, definitely would have cut the time down immensely.

GAAHHH I HAVE SEARCHED EVERYWHERE!!! Are the connectors for all of the Denso injectors the same even if they look slightly different(Side feed injectors for older cars vs Top feed for newer ones)? Looking at the jumper harnesses to complete my top feed conversion, but I see a 90.3 and a 91.3 part number and see two different images, sometimes applying to one sometimes the other. Cannot find anyone else who has discussed this, though I am certain that it has been somewhere. Everything says 90.3 is what I need, but I am seeing two different images and I am pretty sure I know what the connector should look like but I am getting one very reputable source of doubt as well. Ultimately what I think I will find is that it is all going to work, but I want to see if anyone can chime in. So you can look at our injectors or a WRX injector and see the connector has a little guide on each side of the male side for it to slide into the harness. Examples - WRX injector DW 740 CC side feed Stock Side feed Now that's all fine, just find a jumper harness with that style. Perfect. Everyone say it is the ID 90.3 and by and large that looks right. But then I see this from IAG: Says 90.3 is part number, but no guides on the side. Just smooth. Basically the question is, would any of ones I see with the smooth connectors work? Another trusted source shows neither 90.3 nor 91.3: RallySportDirect Cobb shows smooth connectors but neither 90.3 or 91.3 Amazon showing the connector with guides but shows part number has 91.3 in it. Injector Dynamics basically shows they are interchangeable but shows neither picture, and does not list any Subaru except the BRZ as compatible: 90.3 says USCAR to Denso PNP Adaptor Upgrade Option When Purchased w/ Injectors Single Adaptor 91.3 says USCAR to Denso PNP Adaptor Single Adaptor So the easy answer is to just say, well just get the 90.3 ones with the guides. But entertain me here... What are the smooth ones with no guides? Is that actually the 91.3 connector? Does the smooth connector work? Why does IAG show the smooth connector with the 90.3 part number whereas everyone else seems to use the guided connector for the 90.3? Why does amazon (I trust them the least with accuracy of images) show the guided connector with the 91.3? Why does Cobb use the smooth connector, and why do they not list either 90.3 or 91.3? Just trying to get this all sorted out. I have not been able to find a good source that covers this discrepancy, nor a top feed conversion guide (again, I am sure there is something out there that I haven't found yet). Ultimately, I would like to create a very thorough PnP top feed conversion guide for noobz like me. This is the last piece of the puzzle for me.

Longshot, but have you cleaned the MAF. Again, longshot and another case where I doubt it would cause this suite of issues, but sometimes it pays to start back at the simple stuff. Worst case scenario you end up with a clean MAF. I hope you get it figured out!

Yes and no on the headgaskets. It isn't something you have to do if they are not leaking, but you need to take athe timing belt off to do the headgaskets and the rest of the components are right there in front of you, so that is one reason they often get done together. The other reason is that they are usually leaking by the time the timing belt needs to be done. So it is kind of a trade off. The timing belt service is pretty quick and straightforward on a SOHC engine, the headgaskets are a bit more involved obviously with the heads needing to come off. If you are experienced with the timing belt procedure it can be done in well under an hour. For your first time you should definitely take your time as it is not something you want to mess up, but it is all marked very clearly so it is pretty hard to mess up as long as you follow the procedure. You can probably have it done in less than 3-4 hours your first time around. A lot less if you familiarize yourself with the procedure beforehand. The headgaskets can be done with the engine in the car, but it is usually a lot easier to pull the whole motor. I would say it is normally easier and probably faster just to pull it. This will give you more access to inspect everything, the ability to better clean your engine bay, it will probably fight you less, and it will probably take the same amount of time either way. Some people swear it is faster to do it in the car, others swear it is faster to pull it. Because there is overlap, if you do your timing service now and the HGs leak in 10k, you'll be redoing all of the labor for the timing service when you go back in. That is really the decision you'll have to make. A roll of the dice really to see how long your HGs hold out. Do you know any of the service history? Maybe it has already been done, timing belt included? One big modification people often perform on these vehicles is to replace the standard headgasket with the factory turbo model MLS headgasket. These are far less prone to leaking. I would also say it is a great opportunity to adjust the valves. Spark plugs are easy while it is all out too, so pop some of those in while the engine is out. I am a big proponent of OEM parts for these, but you will find a lot of aftermarket options. Working at the dealership, the only time I ever saw a water pump leak on one of these cars was when it was an aftermarket pump, and I have never seen an OEM waterpump fail (though of course that doesn't mean it can't and won't). As an advisor I would pass this information on to my customers to allow them to make an informed decision. (HARD SELL) I always recommended the full suite of timing components (belt, 3 idlers, and tensioner), but would only recommend the water pump if they were at 210k doing it the second time around and had not had it done at the first service. (SOFT SELL) Obviously, it is still not a bad idea to do the water pump and thermostat, as you are right there, but it does add a bit onto the job as you are now draining the cooling system as well. This is one more reason it makes sense to do the pump though, as you are probably also do for a coolant exchange. If you are doing headgaskets, then you are doing coolant anyway and then it is really up to you. The pump is not that expensive, and again, you are right there. Does it need to be done at 100k, probably not with the resiliency of the Subaru water pump, but it is cheap insurance to do it while it is all apart. Just my anecdotal experience from 5 years as a writer at a dealer... take it for what you will. EDIT: I put the Hard Sell/Soft Sell in there. This is what it was, I was pushing this service, not because we were the stealership but because it is the best thing for your car. The soft sell is because we were an honest dealer (and I know that the not-so-honest ones are out there too), and it is all true. I told people the same anecdotes and let them make up their mind. A lot of my customers would decline the additional timing components and just do the the belt. As an anecdote, usually that was fine. But that doesn't mean it is a good idea. I saw the other side of things too, where a few cars needed lots of engine work (usually where they would just trade the vehicle at a big loss) because a tensioner failed or a pulley locked up. I would often show customers a locked up pulley bearing that I kept as an example. Again, this was a hard sell, but not because I wanted to sell you a $50 pulley. Instead because you'd be stupid not to do it while you're right there. We charged no additional labor for the extra parts. The reason I put this edit in is because a lot of people out there, on the forums and otherwise, have a really bad perception of dealerships (again, some of this is for good reason. I was lucky enough to work at an honest shop, and would not have worked there otherwise). But I didn't want to sell additional parts just to boost sales, I was truly advocating for the well being of your vehicle. Of course, in the end, it is a business and you need to make money, but that was never my primary motive. Honestly, more than anything else, I just didn't want to get yelled at by customers just because it cost money to maintain their vehicle. I am scarred from that job, and never want to work in customer service again... /rant

That is awesome!! I thought I was going to have to make something like that... It definitely would not have looked very pretty. Thank you much! EDIT: Wait... doesn't that bolt to the TGV housing? EDIT 2: Nvm, it hooks onto the manifold. That will do nicely. This was a better solution than I expected. EDIT 3: So it looks like it hooks to the TGV the same place the stock LGT bracket does, but also hooks to the manifold. I'll just be leaving the TGV bolts empty. Either way, even if I needed to modify it, it will be a much better starting point than starting from scratch. Your link took me to an empty page, but with a $5 coupon I got it for $13 after tax, plus the one I found came with an extra little bracket that seems like it might actually be what the tank itself mounts too. All of the other listings did not come with this part as far as I saw. This shiny one on the left. Better too much than too little, but I think that is also a piece that will be useful. I don't see that bracket in any of the parts diagrams... Oh well, I got what I need. Thank you again!!!

I am a wagon guy. I love all wagons. On top of this, I think this generation of legacy wagon is one of the best looking vehicles that Subaru has ever produced. I also feel it is one of the best looking wagons ever to see the US market. I do like some of the Audi Wagons, and there are several Japanese wagons that I love (Nissan Stagea <3).

Anyone have a good idea on how/where to mount up the upper coolant tank with aftermarket TGV deletes? I haven't gotten them yet but there does not seem to be a provision on the IAG TGVs for the factory bracket that would normally bolt to the side of the passenger side TGV housing. I am sure there is nothing plug and play, and that I'll have to make a bracket of some sort, but I can't think of a good place to mount it to. My current plan is to make a bracket that will sit on top of the TGV housing and use the bolts that hold the TGV/manifold to the heads, but I have no idea if this will work yet or clear the fuel rails, and would prefer it mount to something less important as I don't want to have less bolt threads holding my manifold down/make a change that might impact the torque spec in ways I am not experienced enough to account for. Like all things, I am probably overthinking that though. As long as I can get the manifold to seal properly, a couple extra millimeters should be no issues. I do believe it comes with extra hardware to account for phenolic spacers. I will be running 3mm, but I could maybe use the 8mm bolts with some washers or spacers if I need extra bolt length. My other idea would be to run something from the bracket at the front of the manifold for the wastegate duty solenoid, but I think that would end up being bulky and ugly and probably still not work well... I just don't see any other options besides that, And I do not want to mess with relocating it.

I know, and that is definitely a concern here in MN. But I bought some fluid film to put down and the car will not really be driven in the winter. Need to fix a couple rust spots still, but engine work is the focus at the moment.

Start with detonation and ringland failure. That will motivate you to get the engine out of the way lol. Brake clean was very helpful for all of the nasty grease and caked on oil on the crossmember and inside the transmission bell housing. Only used two cans, but I would recommend having a lot more. It’s easy to go through and it makes life waaay easier. Paper towels to kind of wipe things down after that. Used a wire brush and scotch bright pad to scuff all of the oxidation off of things. Nylon brushes I used for dusting in all of the nooks and crannies where the wire brush would scratch things or be too aggressive. Some soapy water in a spray bottle to clean up some of the plastic items. Then just lots of time and effort. There are definitely places where I learned things that would have made things easier and more time efficient (broad strokes everywhere, then get to the fine details. Work from the top down.) Also there are probably more tools and supplies that would help. I am sure there are some detailing pros that would be a lot more efficient with it and even end with a better result. But, I am satisfied with it.

Finished cleaning the engine bay. Never good enough but I had to call it. Ordered all of my valvetrain components today. Have a plan in place for my fuel system. Things are coming together (though I suppose that means my bank account is falling apart lol).

Finally some pictures! Hopefully this is the best way to post pictures... I spent the last 3 days cleaning the engine bay. Feels good. Fortunately the weather has been absolutely gorgeous to be outside all day. It will never really be done to a standard I can sign off on, but it was good enough that I had to call it. Too much else is more pressing, but it made no sense to put any money into a nasty engine bay. Have been in contact with CryoTuning. Dave has been giving me a lot of insight on the final pieces of the puzzle for my overall build and goals. I can't wait to get some tunes from him. First things first, finish planning the build, then the actual build lol. Parts have started rolling in, lots of money rolling out. Such is life. I feel bad because I get the impression that Dave is stepping out of his normal station with some of the insight that he has given me, as it seems he is more a tuner than a builder, but still his customer service is on point and I certainly don't hold him to any of it. But getting insight from a tuner as to what works and what doesn't during the tuning process seems equally valuable as what can actually be put together. So I find the insight incommensurable.

OSVs are also known as AVCS solenoids. They are the diagonal solenoids on the back of the cylinder heads that control VVT

That is probably all I need, 740s, but that is good to know. Either I go with a smaller upgrade now and top feeds when I want to turn things up, or I just go top feeds now... Fuel systems are not something I am very familiar with. Was planning on a pump and injectors, but did not think things would become quite as involved as converting the set up altogether. Oh well, I probably should just do it right the first time and get a good top feed set up going. My buddy would probably give me a good deal on his pump and injectors, and 850 is probably plenty for my initial goals. Might need to bump things up towards 1000 if I go e85 in the future, but I really don't think I want to go e85... Wonder how far 850s could take me with a VF52 on 91 pump gas... Do you need to do all new lines or anything? Or do the rail conversions just hook right up to factory fuel lines? I really wanted to get some side feed TGV deletes and I could just run the top feed rail conversions, but maybe I need to look at top feed TGVs. That was what the guy at IAG suggested. EDIT: DW makes side feeds up to 1000cc. Seems strange to have a product that is nearly unusable from a tuning standpoint.

Talked to the main build planner at IAG. Learned a lot. Looking at going +1mm on valves now (great more money...) He did tell me that I pretty much had to go top feed and that tuners would not be able to tune the car with side feeds. Maybe I misunderstood him, though he confirmed it at the end of our call when I asked for clarification and he just reiterated the same thing. That can't be true is it? Not the end of the world if I have to go top feed but was definitely not planning on it. My buddy has some DW 850 CC injectors that he is not using because he recently found out he is sticking with side feed... Pretty sure that was advice from his tuner too... something doesn't add up. Reached out to Cryo. Going to be looking to him for an E-tune once this is all put together. Getting excited. Gonna have to start a build thread at some point.

Idk. With low oil and dirty oil, that sounds like rod knock, but I didn’t hear it. You might be on to something though, if a pulley locked up.

Who suggested this? He just said the mechanics were talking about a seal that failed for one cylinder, not that they would replace just one tube seal.

I think he meant coil overs, as he mentions sway bars right after. That sound pretty standard for a dealer estimate on this work. There is a lot of labor involved and dealer labor rates are usually higher than any local independent shop. You’ll be all of 7k into it to do a short block build properly if you pay for labor, so forget the suspension for now and focus everything on the heart like you said. Also try Heuberger Subaru for OEM parts. Best deals you will find without an employee discount lol. Are you doing the work yourself then, over the winter? Or are you having the dealer do it, or finding an independent shop? OEM Short block - $1700-1800 Cyl head work, valve adjustments, machining, etc. $500-800 OEM timing components - $500 Something like that. There are cheaper aftermarket options, but this is not a set of components I would personally ever cheap out on. Even the gates kits I have heard took a nosedive on quality. But there are probably some that work well, just do your research if you are not going OE. You are overdue for these by mileage and time if they’ve not been done. OEM oil pump - $150 - perhaps optional, but a lot more expensive than $150 if it fails and you are right there. OEM water pump - $100 - Probably optional, Subaru water pumps are pretty resilient, but at the same time, you’re right there. OEM gasket kit - $275 New Banjo Bolts - $25 - could maybe skip these, but why. Coolant - $50 Oil - $25 Spark Plugs - $50 Silicone RTV - $25? $3400-3800 baseline parts cost - based on Heuberger pricing I would plan an extra $200-500 for other things that come up which will always happen while things are apart. Are your vacuum lines in good shape? Coolant hoses? PCV lines? Did you break a sensor when you pulled the motor? That type of stuff. Things only needed if there is any signs that metal has circulated through the oil, which is possible if your ringland fragmented. Again, you’re there, so it’s cheaper to do it now. And a lot cheaper if these don’t get replaced and they knock out your brand new block. OEM oil cooler $250 OEM OSV x2 - $185 OEM Intake cam sprocket x2 - $300 - these can be skipped if you disassemble and clean them Turbocharger - New or rebuild VF40 - $400-1200 - skip this if you’re going to just slap yours back on, but that is not something I would recommend. Nor would I recommend just slapping on a used one We can easily exceed $5k in just parts at this point, and this is a stock build. You’re talking about upgrading the turbo? The VF52 is very popular, plan on $200-400 for one that probably is blown and just a core or at best just has high mileage and should get a $400-800 rebuild. Plus you’ll need a protune or e-tune so that’s another $300-1500 (? I have not looked into tuning costs). You should plan on getting a proper tune regardless. I have learned this the hard way. With the turbo upgrade you may need a new fuel pump and your injectors will be near 95% duty cycle from what I’ve read which is not ideal, so injectors too. You mentioned a top mount, there’s another $200-1000, depending on used vs new and which one you go with. Is it a manual? Probably best to throw some clutch parts at it. Clutch and Flywheel options range from -$400-800 - you can spend more but for a reliability build you shouldn’t. Now start adding your aftermarket mods. Now add labor ($1000 at least probably more like $2000) if you’re not doing it yourself. $7k is not them doing too much, if anything they probably wouldn’t do enough, and you definitely do not want to go through all of this (or spend this much money) and not do enough.

Feels vaguely similar to my case, but only vaguely. I won’t be of much help here though except to say check the intercooler to throttle body coupler. These are known to blow out even under factory boost and it sounds like you finally got to hit boost properly just before it happened. The factory design is stupid with that inner seal that folds in. I can’t imagine it would be something so simple though, and I don’t think that would cause such a dramatic set of symptoms like you’re seeing. Hope the brains here can help you get her figured out! Best of luck!

Exedy FJK1001 clutch kit Exedy TYF001 flywheel I spent about $400 for all of it from Amazon. I felt like I was kind of taking a risk on this flywheel as I don’t think you will find that as the main recommendation to go with this kit and I could not find anyone else running the combo at the time. I did not want to put another lightweight (10-15 lbs) flywheel in, but didn’t want to put something as heavy as the factory dual mass (36 lbs iirc). Even the factory WRX single mass flywheel was heavier than I wanted I think at around (26-28 lbs iirc). Took a chance on this because it was kind of in that sweet spot for weight (Amazon lists 16 lbs but I think it was heavier than that when I weighed it... 20-22lbs) and it was far cheaper than anything else I could find, plus it was exedy. Clearly I don’t remember any of the weights lol, but I am very happy with the way things feel at this weight. Any heavier and the time between shifts would feel way too long imo. Coming from the lightweight that was in there might have skewed my perception, but even this feels too heavy at times. Definitely can’t imagine going heavier. But this combo was very good to me for the last 5k. I did about 1000 miles of very cautious break in before I even hit boost again, as it was my first brand new clutch in any vehicle. Now that we pulled it all apart it looks properly bedded and still almost brand new. Not that I am an abusive driver but I definitely do some downshifts into roundabouts and plenty of spirited driving. Never truly launched the car but it felt like there was plenty of bite to do so. For the price, this might be exactly what you are looking for if you just want to get by until the 6 speed swap.

I wonder if they meant the spark plug tube seal? The valve cover gasket covers two cylinders. There is a tube seal for each cylinder. Maybe the tube seal is leaking? If they took the valve cover off they should have replaced the valve cover gasket and both tube seals... What I suspect happened is that they simply pulled the plug and found oil in the tube, indicating the tube seal is leaking. This will foul the plug and can cause misfires. If this is what is happening then do not wait. These cars do not like misfires and they can cause other issues. This is a relatively simple repair, as long as they do not also have to do the half moon cam plugs on the back of the cyl heads as well. Have them put spark plugs in at the same time. I don't think that any of this has to do with the seat repair. You touched on it and I agree that the problem may have been exacerbated by them disconnecting the battery, but if you have oil leaking into your tube seal that is the other reason it is progressing. There is more and more oil in there as time passes by and the plug gets more and more fouled. The first thing that you should do, and probably even do this yourself, is clean the Mass Air Flow meter sensor at the air box. Go buy some MAF cleaner and a screw driver and it will take you 5 mins. Second thing you do is get more information from your shop. If the tube seal is leaking and causing a misfire, I would have that fixed. My .02 EDIT: I thought you had a turbo car, but I just re-read your post. Yeah it is probably not as urgent in that case, but still a very easy repair, and that is likely what is happening. If you are actively misfiring then you need to have it fixed before it takes out your catalytic converter. You could still clean the MAF, but I have definitely seen those tube seals leak before and cause plug fouling. If I were a betting man then I would bet that is what the shop found. An added bonus is that the job is even easier on your engine, and there are no half moons to reseal regardless.

RallySportDirect had the black hose kit in stock when I called them. Just got it ordered up. I meant to ask how many they had in stock just in case anyone else here was looking. Initially he said it can take a month or two which matches my experience special ordering my Samco BPV hose through them. Instead I get free shipping and may even see it by the end of the week. If you are looking, give them a call and hopefully they have another set or two in the warehouse. I just told them I had an 09 WRX so that I didn't have to fight with them about fitment and what I was trying to order. I will keep you guys posted on actual fitment as well once I get the kit. I also just sent an email to IAG with my build goals and asked for some expert assistance based on my goals and modifications. I asked if they saw any bottlenecks, which oil pump they recommend, fuel pump and injector advice, Monitoring equipment (wideband, oil psi and temp gauges) advice, phenolic spacers, and TGVs. I will post up some of the same info here a little later to get forum input as well. Right now I gotta get to the dealership and get my other head torn down (did one this morning) so that I can get them to the machine shop.

That sucks man. Sounds like you've been robbed.