SageAbkatsor

Not replacing oil cooler is scary... That cannot be properly cleaned to my knowledge

803912040 is correct. Verified in Subaru EPC. Just wanted to put this part number in the thread in case all of the links above die in 3 years. I hate finding old threads with people saying "here is the correct information in this link, and then the link goes nowhere useful." It is in the URL of one of the links above, but still...

I only work here for another week before I move, lol. It was really bad timing. The battery was disconnected when we took the intake manifold off, so I wont see how bad the old vacuum leaks were, and as far as I saw with the smoke test there are no vacuum leaks currently. But yes we do need to spend more time with the scan tool on it. EDIT: My foreman tells me the only way I would have data is if the Check Engine Light set and saved freeze frame data. The CEL did not set, surely because of the accessport tune.

Hello all, I am hoping to get some insight as to what might have happened to my engine which now knocks. Teardown will hopefully start this week so that should tell us what is damaged, but may not tell us why... 2005 Legacy GT wagon 5mt. Relatively stock with some bolt ons (perrin downpipe and intercooler, LW flywheel, exhaust), as well as an accessport. I bought the car in 2018 with about 145k. I work in service up front at a dealership and have seen firsthand the troubles these motors can have with poor maintenance and wanted to get ahead of it. Had the headgaskets replaced, valves adjust/shimmed, new plugs, all timing components and waterpump replaced, because I had no records of any of these services. Also had clutch flywheel and such replaced with a more standard weight but still single mass kit, and had him put some more bolt ons like a turbo inlet and recirc valve. The work was done by one of our technicians on the side and I had asked for a very thorough job and feel like I got a bit of a rush job. I think he did do the shims and gaskets and all of that correctly, but once he got passed that and the long block was together, I think he wanted the money more than he wanted to do quality work. As things went back together from there, there was a lot that should have gotten replaced that did not. Namely rock hard vaccum lines, rock hard turbo drain tube, and some pretty minor stuff that would be easy while it was apart. Whatever. The car ran well enough and was given back to me. I had to replace the turbo drain tube which sucked while the car was back together. Mostly though I did not have any issues. I did at some point have a boost leak and had to replace the notorious intercooler coupler. That was fine. Somewhere after this I ran into a target boost problem where I would intermittently hit only about 10 psi and so after some reading here I replaced my boost control solenoid and cleaned the MAF and it worked well again, hitting about 18psi (not sure which fixed it as I did them at the same time, but I would bet on the MAF). In the process, I had smoke tested the car and found significant vaccuum leaks. Significant... Drove the car as is against my better judgement for a short time but it was not my only car so it didn't end up with too many miles in this state. Still, we can fastforward to this last couple of weeks. Car was still running well and hitting peak boost, but it was time to fix the vaccum leaks. Have about 150k on it now. Another technician and I pulled the intake and found all of the stuff that really should have been replaced the first time around, but whatever, we had most of the vacuum lines on hand, a few more got ordered and replaced a bunch of rotten PCV lines while we were at it. Put it back together, started up just fine. No issues. Drove the car home that night to burn off some powersteering fluid and coolant that had been spilled. Car was running great, cruise control even was a lot smoother at it had a bit of a lope before, but saw I was only getting about 11-12 psi. Drove it back to the shop and parked it so I could look at it again the next day. Next day roles around and I figure I may have a vacuum/boost leak so my plan is to start with a smoke test. Simple. No leaks detected so I am pretty excited about that, but have no clue why my boost was not right. I'll let the tech look at it the next night and figure that out. Start the car and get a light pinging so I immediately shut it down. Thought maybe I had just heard another tech who was still working in the shop, but I looked everything over once more, it all looked in place, not that I had taken anything apart to smoke test anyway. Start it again and my worst nightmare has been realized. Full blown knocker. Looked at it the other night with the second tech and could not find anything out of place. Cyl 3 was the issue looking at roughness monitor. Swapped coils and still the same issue. We are a bit stumped at this point as to what might have happened. The only thing I can think is that I had detonation (the pinging) and then suffered ringland failure (the knock). It does not seem like an oiling issue or bearing failure, although the noise was hard to pinpoint so that is possible. If I am correct then my cylinder wall on #3 is probably jacked, so I've already started looking at reman short blocks, but I still dont know what happened as we did not have a chance to solve the underboost issue. I dont know if it leaned out or just missed and detonated or what... Our borescope is broken so I am just going to have him take the heads off and inspect for damage. My biggest concern is that we put a new shortblock in and it suffers the same fate... Thanks for reading my long winded story. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure there is not much here that can be diagnosed over a forum, but I needed to vent and I am hoping for some sort of magical answer. I am a very sad man