SageAbkatsor

JMP will do either a stock rebuild or a “custom” rebuild. The custom rebuild will use A billet compressor wheel. Either way he is focused on giving you something reliable. But the stock rebuild, I don’t believe will get you any more power than a normal VF52. A VF52 should give a bit of an increase over the stock VF40, but if you’re looking for 300awhp I think the custom is a better fit if you do go with the VF. I’m sure 300 is possible with a standard VF52 though. As far as a comparison to a BNR I am no help there. I am still on break in on my engine so my JMP hasn’t seen boost yet, and I wouldn’t have experience with a BNR to compare even if it had. Don’t know the cost on a BNR but I think JMP will do a rebuild for around $800 for a custom, less for a standard rebuild. That’s if you supply the core. Idk what he charges for a core but it’s not much I think, but idk if he always has a stock of them. The only other thing to consider is lead time. JMP is just one man, and he does not do this full time. It took a few weeks to ship my turbo there and for him to rebuild and get it back to me. It could be more or less for you depending on how many others he has in front of yours and what else he has going on in his life. Doesn’t sound like that’s an issue for you if you decide sooner than later though.

This is such a fantastic thread. Wagons4Life

This build has me drooling. I wish I had the means to go this far... One day maybe I will have a workspace like that... I am probably $16k short of your budget and $16k would get me pretty damn close to where I want to go, though still not with a brand new fuel tank and being able to fully disassemble everything and stuff like that. It is really the right way to do something like this. I wish every Legacy GT was able to get this kind of treatment, I think they all deserve it (well, at least the wagons do) This is all soooo good.

Not trying to revive a dead thread, but I thought I should post a resolution to my problem in case someone finds this in the future. I took everything apart at about -6 degrees F in February. Was terrible, but it was worth it because I got the car started. I took the pump assembly out and immediately found one of the plastic clips that hold one of the hoses tight to the body of the filter with an o-ring was not fully seated. Uncertain whether or not that might have been something that came undone while I was removing the assembly I proceeded to dissemble things further, to check my work. I verified everything else was correct. The plastic spacer really only fits one way. I only used one O-ring because... well that just makes more sense to me. Everything worked perfectly from there.

Did you do plugs when you did the headgaskets? We’re the valve clearances checked when the heads were rebuilt? I am assuming so... Have you checked the number 2 plug or coil?

From my understanding there is not a lot you can do to the N/A cars to boost performance. Tuning makes anything possible but how far the stock internals can go I am not sure. And of course if you build something with forged internals you can probably make some decent power with the right supporting mods. I have seen a few cold air intakes on N/A cars but from my understanding the stock Subaru Airbox breaths just fine up to around 400 horse on the turbo cars. I can’t imagine that does anything for you. I have seen plenty of Subaru both turbo and non that have exhaust mods. The right exhaust maybe gets you a bump on the N/A cars if it were tuned for properly. But just tuning it in general would be the most substantial bump in power I think you would see of any individual bolt on or plug and play type mod you could do to a stock N/A Subaru. Not that tuning is either bolt on or plug and play unless using an OTS map, but most modifications should be tuned for in my opinion. So if you look at just a tune, vs tune plus exhaust I bet the difference is not too far off, especially if it is just a catback. Suspension is where I would focus my efforts on a “performance” N/A Subaru. I would like to buy a clean N/A legacy wagon, but I would not be modifying the engine or engine performance. If I did exhaust it would be for the sound only.

From my experience at the dealership this was pretty common on this generation of outback/legacy. Most common was the hinge on the handle itself becomes corroded, and then when the door is opened the handle stays in the open position. This will prevent the door from properly closing as it won’t latch but it will also prevent it from locking of course. I saw this all to often. Normally people didn’t want to pay to fix it so you just show them how to return the handle into the closed position and then the door will close and lock. Next most common was like max capacity said. The wiring at the top of the door under the accordion rubber boot will go bad from flexing so many times over the years. Rear gate harness has to be replaced.

I’ll add my name to the hat, I also have a JMP custom VF52. I can’t review it because I only just had my first drive on Wednesday and have a lot of break in period in front of me before I stretch her legs. But I can say John took care of me and the final product exudes quality.

Hmmmm... It has been too long since I did it to recall exactly if that got moved over. I guess I am pulling my pump. But you are saying two O rings should be above the spacer. I am pretty confident there was only 1 o-ring on my stock set up EDIT: I do remember seeing that spacer though, so I am pretty sure it got moved over, but I definitely did not use two O rings.

Aeromotive FPR. But the issue has to be before the FPR. If we hook up a tube to the feed line under the hood and key on, shouldn't it dump out fuel? Or is the return line being hooked to the FPR doing something I am not aware of? EDIT: A1000 Gen 2 FPR. I used the two side ports for the lines from the rails to the FPR and used the bottom port for the return line. Per IAG: https://www.iagperformance.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/instructions/IAG/FUEL-RAILS/IAG-Fuel-Rails-with-6-Aftermarket-FPR-Diagram.pdf

My buddy and I just put the final touches on my build, got the engine primed and made sure nothing is leaking. But now the fuel system will not prime. When we key on we can hear the pump, or something in the pump area, make some noise for a few seconds. Hooked up a hose to the fuel feed line in the engine bay and we can get a couple drops of fuel every now and then, but it is virtually nothing. I wanted to ask here before I go any further just in case anyone has any ideas. I am 99.9% certain that I put the O ring on the pump when I replaced it with the AEM 50-1215. I had read about people having that issue before I did mine so I don't think I missed it. It seemed like a very straightforward install. Everything we looked into pointed to either the pump itself, an issue with the pump install, or the tune. I am almost positive it is not the tune so I am planning to pull the pump and check my install as my next step. Like I said just seeing if anyone had any other ideas for me to check out. I have heard mention of a spacer next to the O-ring. I don't think the old one had a spacer and the new one I dont think came with a spacer. Thoughts?

Yeah you would run into issues with clearance on the TMIC with the 8mm, or so I have been told. I went 3mm as well. One thing to note on the IAG TGVs is that there are no provisions for the bracket that secures your coolant expansion tank. I think there is a bracket on the driver side too with some grounds, but that is not as difficult of a puzzle to solve.

I just wanted to share my experience with engine priming last night. I was following IAG’s engine priming and break in instructions. It says to pre-fill oil filter, disconnect crank position sensor, and then crank the engine in 15-20 second intervals until the oil pressure light goes off. We followed these instructions but after maybe 5-10 15 second cranks, the oil pressure light would still not go off. Looked everything over and nothing is leaking, my builder is confident in everything he has done, so what gives? I was fortunate enough to find this video: The issue was that we pre filled the oil filter. The air bubble between the oil in the sump/pump and the oil in the filter is able to pressurize but not enough to force the oil in the filter out. We did as this video instructed and pulled the filter, nervously cranked until oil came out. Reattached the filter, still pre-filled, and then proceeded to prime it again. Within about 2 or 3 15 second cranks the light went out. I am now slightly nervous about the amount of cranking that was done, but my builder told me not to worry about it. It wasn’t a lot of cranking, and that is what assembly lube is for. Plus IAG builds quality stuff. Still, was a little bit of a nail biter for a second there. Again, just figured I would share my experience. TLDR; if you pre-fill your oil filter, it may prevent you from properly priming your engines oil system.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/radiator-hoses/tcs464-anc-wrx-blu-samco-ancillary-hose-kit-blue RSD says this does not fit 2005 LGT, but I can confirm fitment of all of these lines. I called rally sport direct and got them in black. Does not have vacuum lines though. Also got the Samco BPV hose. Went with Perrin for all of the other intake hoses (after MAF, inlet, and intercooler to throttle body). Only thing I’m missing is the upper and lower radiator hoses, but mine were brand new OEM so I’ll do those in the future. I just bought all brand new vacuum lines from the Subaru dealer for everything else.

Installing fuel pump today. Wish I had gone the AEM route, but also kinda glad I went Aeromotive. This is not plug and play lol. I called Aeromotive and they said that this is the correct way to make an E85 pump though as the submerged connector creates electrolysis in E85. In regular gas that is fine to have that connector submerged but not in E85. This is why Aeromotive uses bonded wires... Now the question is commit and hard wire my pump, or bail and sell this and get the AEM. I know the recommendation from everyone here is to go AEM, and AEM says E85 compatible, but I do believe what Aeromotive is saying about electrolysis. The only thing is... I am not running E85... while I plan to in the future, that may be a ways out yet. EDIT: ordered the AEM pump last night...

Yeah I think you got the correct part for that part number. Honestly that's what I searched in ebay so that is what I thought I had but clearly found something else. My original listing does not show a part number, but it says it is for an 02-05 WRX... I think I am probably just an idiot. But hey maybe this is what you actually need. From what I can tell, the part number is 14047AA264. I would see if you can double check what Rhino is telling you before you go buy this thing though. I just confirmed the AA700 is what is on the later top feed LGTs. I am just special...

Mine looks very different from yours... Idk, I think he got the wrong part... Or I got the wrong part. Look at mine vs his: Clearly very different parts. Ultimately I still dont think either piece would do me any good. I have aftermarket side feed TGV deletes with top feed conversion rails. I have no provisions in the new TGVs for any of the brackets to use those bottom holes. Which is why I still don't understand fully the need for this other bracket if those holes are used. Those holes are in the exact same location as the smaller bracket that my car came with. Aren't they? Tehnation, you did your top feed conversion with the later model top feed TGVs, right? What does the normal expansion tank bracket do for you? Why does that one not work? Would love to see more pictures of what you are working with. Ill take some pictures of my dilemma tomorrow.

Everything in my system will be -6AN with the rails having -8ORB to -6AN adapters. It is really not a necessary modification unless you are upping fuel flow dramatically or intend to manipulate fuel pressure for one reason or another. There are two reasons I am going aftermarket FPR. First is to run my rails in parallel as opposed to running them in series. You can do this without running an aftermarket FPR though. The second reason I bought mine is because my tuner recommended it. Simple as that in my case. Mounting it has been another story, but after removing the old FPR and all of the brackets surrounding it, I now have provisions to mount it in roughly the stock location using a bracket I made. Should be a neat little set up.

I personally think the car could be worth as much as $4-5k in its current condition but only if you can find the right buyer. These cars are hard to find and yours is very clean. It depends on how quickly you want to sell. Sure it has ringland failure but it still runs so the existing motor may be worth something to part out or rebuild for the right person. So that holds decent value, even in its current condition, as the person who buys it has something to build from or to sell to help fund their build. The rest of it looks damn near immaculate. The interior is pristine, the exterior looks great. I can't imagine it is rotten underneath. There is a lot of peace of mind to know that you can do the motor work and the car is ready to go... As far as rebuild value it is hard to say. The problem you run into is that everyone has their own vision. If you rebuild to stock and then try to sell for 10-12k, the guy who wants to put a built motor in it is no longer interested for that price. If you build it and try to sell for 15-18k, the guy who is afraid of aftermarket reliability or wants an OEM collector item is off the table. Those are some of the numbers I would put on a car like this though. Whether or not you find a buyer with those numbers is another story. Again, it depends on how quickly you are looking to offload it. Thats just my opinion though. I have seen these cars in the 10-20k range with 60-80k miles depending on what is under the hood. Whether or not they sell at those prices I don't know. I bought mine for just over $4k with 145k in running and driving condition but the body has some rust. 5k later it needs a motor. I would pay $3k for yours for sure. More if I was actually looking for one and in a better position to buy.

Cool to see a vendor as large as Mishimoto active on these forums. I wonder how many others lurk/chime in when pertinent. @Mishimoto, I was disappointed to see you guys don't carry an ancillary hose kit for our vehicles. I would imagine that it would have decent demand being that the 08-14 WRX shares the same design. Obviously you guys can't make something if there is no market for it, so I am sure you guys have considered it. Maybe it didn't make sense or you didn't see enough demand. That's understandable. I found that Samco is the only one who makes a proper kit, but they are not always the easiest to get parts from and they tend to be a bit more expensive than equivalent Mishimoto stuff. Fortunately RallySportDirect had the hoses in stock. Just advocating for the rest of the community. Again, I am not sure how much demand there actually is for these parts.

Yeah I honestly wasn't sure what I was looking for in a pump, but I think I will be happy with my decision. We'll see. If it goes sideways I guess I'll try the AEM. I used IAG as my reference point and they said "extensive modification may be required" on the AEM pump, and it was $116, and they had no such note for the $200 Aeromotive pump. When I found the Aeromotive one for $120 I figured I was getting a pretty good deal on a $200 pump... Usually the old adage goes, you get what you pay for. If it is a more expensive pump, I figured... I also have the Aeromotive FPR and an Aeromotive inline filter and I kind of like sticking with one brand. How plug and play is the AEM pump? It seems like you at least need to crimp some wires. The Aeromotive one looks like the harness is already on there ready to go. Again, I have no idea what I am looking at. I just wanted to get something that would just drop in. Sounds like the AEM does, but all of the pictures I saw show it has two open wires that need to be spliced in... I like that it is the stealth line too, as they are supposed to run quiet. A coworker said he has heard good things about the stealth line. Maybe it is a mistake, but I am going to try the Aeromotive.

My ebay seller shipped me the wrong fuel pump. Aeromotive 11165 vs 11565. It looks identical but does not come with the additional accessories like the fuel sock filter thing, a tube with two hose clamps, additional PnP wiring harness, and a padded sleeve or something for the pump. I paid about $120. He is processing the return but it seems like he is trying to convince me not to go through with it. He said the 11165 is the same pump but made before they started lowering the costs of the pump. "It is the same application but a better pump which is why it is priced at $189 without the additional accessories." A little digging on Aeromotive's website and I found list price on 11165 to be $181.99, not $189, and 11565 to be $182.99. Firstly, $189 is more than list price of $181.99. Secondly, you are selling the 11565 listed at $182.99 for about $120, and yet do not list the 11165 for sale at all. Third you are claiming the $189 price as though the $120 you charge for 11565 is Aeromotive's list price. What you're claiming seems plausible, yet slightly misleading... While I am certain the additional accessories do probably cost more than $1, I doubt there is a significant expense far beyond that. These are pretty cheap components. When purchased or manufactured in bulk by a larger company like aeromotive, I would guess they are maybe looking at $5 or so. Maybe less. A quick search for these items sold individually: Fuel socks of this design are usually $5-10 Bulk fuel hose in the length and materials provided is very cheap. $1 is being generous Hose clamps... maybe $.50-$1 for 2 The pad looks like a cheap piece of foam... can't find anything but... $0.50 Wiring harness might be $8-12 Bought in bulk I would guess they are not paying much more than that additional $1 they are passing on to the customer. So while it might be true that they cut costs and made a lower quality pump, that isn't obvious looking at Aeromotives website or adding up the additional items. In fact, it states 11165 has been superseded by 11565 to support E85 compatibility, so you actually get more features with the new part. The only piece of data I do not have to make a fair judgement is manufacturing costs and seller margins, but I would guess the margins remain close to being the same. In fact, they may consider having a lower margin if they thought they would sell more pumps with the additional accessories, E85 compatibility, and PnP compatibility. That is the type of simple economic decisions that companies make. The only thing of note is that I indeed cannot find an 11165 for less than $160. But that could be for a lot of different reasons. Perhaps there is something to what he says... This post is basically meaningless, but I was about to send a similar response to my eBay seller. I decided it wasn't worth the argument, so I decided I would just post a rant on here. My hunch is that some of these ebay sellers have overstock of the 11165 and they purchased them at a higher price than they are getting the 11565's they purchase today. The 11165 is no longer available on Aeromotive's website so it is likely out of production completely following the supersession. While the difference in pricing could represent a change to inferior quality, it could represent a change in manufacturing volume, projected sales volume, simplified manufacturing processes or product design, larger wholesale margins in the past, etc. that would allow them to sell to wholesale vendors at a lower price than they sold the 11165 despite the additional accessories. Regardless, I am building with E85 as a future option, so the 11165 does me no good. /rant

I have the full ancillary hose kit from Samco, which includes the heater core hoses. That is why I did not bother cleaning them much. Have not looked at motor mounts though... Thought about it. My budget is seriously capped out right now, but I will do some looking...

Am I missing something? Yeah, this does not work unless I have a different intake manifold I think... The aluminum ones must have the provisions for this bracket. The bracket does look like it mounts to the TGVs, but that puts me in the same dilemma. My new TGVs won't have the provision for any bracket, and if they did, I would just use the existing stock bracket that mounts to the TGV housing. I might still use it as material to make some type of custom bracket, but as it sits it doesn't do me any good. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.

It is getting close to being time to put together a build thread. I need more pictures, but my final build plans are beginning to solidify. Just installed my AOS today and John got back to me on the turbo build. Let me know if you guys see any problems or things I am missing with the plans as they sit currently. The goal is around 300ish to the wheels on pump gas with a lot of room for overhead in the block and fuel system if I ever want to go big turbo, Intercooler upgrade, Flexfuel, etc. I am very open to new ideas and suggestions. Short Block IAG Stage 2 Tuff B25 Heads Resurface, pressure test, valve job, new guides, polish cams, rockers and journals - GSC SuperAlloy +1mm intake and exhaust valves - GSC Beehive valve springs and Titanium Retainers - GSC Spring seats - GSC Manganese Bronze intake and exhaust guides - Brian Crower Valve Keepers New OEM Engine Parts Engine Gasket kit 11mm Oil Pump Oil Cooler AVCS intake cam phasers Oil Control solenoids Misc small parts After market Engine parts Samco Ancillary hose kit ARP head studs IAG AVCS/Turbo oil feed lines Intake and Exhaust Perrin AftaMaf intake to inlet hose Perrin Turbo Inlet Grimmspeed EBCS JMP VF52 Custom turbo build Perrin TMIC IAG side feed TGV deletes IAG Street series Air Oil Seperator IAG 3mm phenolic spacers Perrin Downpipe Fuel system Aeromotive Stealth 325 IAG Top Feed Conversion line kit Need a fuel filter inline, Looking at the ID one but it is a bit spendy... IAG Top Feed Conversion rails ID 1050X Injectors Aeromotive Gen 2 FPR IAG Fuel Pressure Gauge Engine Management and Monitoring Accessport V2 (Looking at an upgrade to V3) E-tuned by Cryotune Performance Cubbypod AEM Wideband Empty spot in cubby pod for a gauge - might go oil temp or oil pressure Want to add more spots for gauges, but I don't know where to put them ------ Currently I am working on a custom bracket to mount my fuel pressure regulator. I am skeptical that the solution suggested above to mounting my upper coolant reservoir is going to work after I looked at my manifold yesterday. I don't see where that is going to mount to.