Pleides

Called and got the same rep again. Their phone system actually kinda sucks but whatever. So they can actually warranty just the insert without the entire shock tower, which is nice. The only problem I have now is that Surgeline needs to do the warranty stuff since their supplier (I believe it's Turn 14) only warranties the Konis for two years. I think Koni won't care regardless, but I'm gonna leave it in their hands as they purchased the shocks and then installed them. Would be nice to save a few bucks.

I start a new job in September and will have Saturdays off. I may actually go to this thing! You for sure coming Andrew?

I believe the most accelerated idle learn procedure comes in the form of just letting the car cold start idle for 10 minutes at operating temp and for 5 minutes at hot start with all accessories off, just FYI. I often will flash an ECU map and then start and let the car sit while running for a fair bit before I take off because I know I'll randomly stall when pushing the clutch in when driving which, quite frankly, is kind of dangerous as you can lose power steering (which has happened to me at very fortunate times). If your car is actually going dead while sitting still with the transmission in neutral right after flashing a tune then it may be a good idea to check your vacuum lines and MAF sensor/air intake filter. Mine only randomly stalls after disconnecting the battery or otherwise resetting the ECU if I am rolling, usually doing something like pushing the clutch in and turning the wheel at the same time.

Can't remember if I responded here ever, but since I got Brembos and a Mach V wing, I want some spotlight! Oh, and the side profile there is older, but from when I got the Brembos, prior to wing. Just love the shot though.

From what Surgeline told me, their warranty basically covers stuff that doesn't really break unless there's a major manufacturing defect. However, you inspired me to call them and talk to a rep. Seems like it might actually work out in my favor. Here's what the rep told me. 1. I need a copy of the registration for my car to prove I was the owner of the car who purchased the struts and still am. 2. They can either have me leave the car on jack stands and send the defective strut back and give me a replacement free of charge, OR they can charge me for a new strut, send it to me, have it set up and on, then, upon them receiving my defective shock, they'll take a look over to determine it actually has failed and then refund me. It doesn't appear that they will refund the labor, which is the lion's share of the cost for me in alignment and installation costs. 3. The squeaky strut that twists inside the housing is likely from the bolt on the bottom of the strut that holds the insert in place needing to be tightened. It's apparently a fairly common issue. It also could be from the strut housing being cut too short. I should have asked if they need the whole shock body or if just sending them the old failed insert is sufficient. I don't have another KYB housing lying around and cutting it up is just more labor in the end.

It's entirely possible that it was installed erroneously, however Surgeline is pretty top-notch. No clue who there installed them, but given that they have techs that can do custom fabrication and they work on crazy stuff day in and out, I can't imagine this would be super difficult for them. And then both failing? They gave me a quote to rebuild them but it's not cheap to have a shop do it and I don't have a vice, so not sure if I wanna attempt it myself.

Hey all, wondering if anybody else has had experience with their Koni yellow struts failing prematurely. Just came back from Surgeline and can confirm now that my fronts both need replacement. The left front insert twists around in the housing causing an irritating squeak. The right front is leaking fluid and is bouncy now. I'm just barely out of the warranty by a few months and am hesitating to put another pair in the car to replace them after that experience. Roads where I live are pretty smooth, too. Anybody had similar issues or gone with something else? Part of me is wishing I just ponied up for KWs.

I'd recommend having a very small right angle pick to remove them from the door. Job isn't too difficult. Replaced all the window trim along the edges of the doors there at the same time. Mine were super dirty as well but I didn't clean mine. They don't scratch but they leave some residue.

Also, with regards to rust, look out for the rust in the fuel filler neck. Tends to start leaking fuel after brief exposure to salt.

Eh, I'd not worry about it.

I don't know how else to tell you this, but it's not that hard chief. Click the plus on one quote in one thread, another quote in another thread, then reply to the two quoted posts with the button at the bottom right of your screen. To be fair, I'm giving instructions for a desktop browser, so if you're on mobile it may not be as intuitive. You did see above that I quoted two posts of yours - one from the thread you're reading this comment on and one from another thread entirely.

Just like that.

Click the "Plus" on the quote button underneath someone's post. Now do it for multiple posts. You can now quote multiple posts. Like I just did, here.

Looks like he's in Carson City, Nevada.

I've had extremely good luck with Liqui Moly Engine Flush. You'll 100% need to clean out your pickup tube after using it though.

Gotcha, well I doubt it's getting too cold at night there in the summer. Only been there once last August, but in CT definitely isn't freezing overnight this time of year. Definitely check that pickup tube. How long is the oil pressure light on when you cold start the car?

Where do you live and how long is the car sitting between cold starts? I went on vacation last December and came back with the car having sat a week in the cold. Got a little piston slap on startup. If you're using synthetic oil, typically it sits in the piston rings overnight and helps prevent cold start wear. Perhaps try using a 0W oil to see if it helps? Also worth checking if your pickup tube in the oil pan is clear of debris.

Gotta love when idiots can't mind their own business. Best of luck getting it fixed up and diagnosed.

If you get a loan on the car then the title has to be owned by the bank. I don't know that you wanna go through with this. I know sinking money into an engine doesn't sound appetizing, especially when a crash might occur, but it's life with these old turbo cars. People have done far more expensive things. This guy, for example.

There isn't much of a reason to use BBCode to quote posts anymore. You can quote posts across different topics pretty easily with IPBoard.

As someone who has a whole fleet of polyurethane bushings from Whiteline and Energy throughout my car, I would just stick to OEM rubber man. The squeaks are driving me absolutely bonkers and it's been two years since the bushings were all installed.

I borrow all the detailing supplies from work on the regular, so swirl marks are no trouble for me. A Griot's polisher and some correcting cream would make your car look so good, I promise! Thanks for the compliments on the Brembos and all that The Outback is my friend's. His IG is It's_a_3.0_thing.

IPBoard has modern mobile-first CSS so I'd assume Tapatalk would look worse than the default site on mobile web browsers anyways.

A Borla exhaust sounds more like what you're looking for. The XForce looks to be a rebrand of the generic eBay exhaust I bought my car with. The Borla doesn't look like it will rust like a lot of cheaper aftermarket solutions will. That's my car with a Borla and Invidia catted downpipe. Here's a video of someone installing that exhaust on a Legacy GT sedan.

If you do get upgraded bars, order the Whiteline set that comes with new sway bar bushings and new endlinks all in one to save some money instead of doing those bushings and endlinks first. You won't get the perfect A to B comparison of trashed bushings and endlinks vs new OEM or upgraded ones with the new bar added at the same time (also would recommend adding on some AVO sway bar reinforcement brackets to avoid your sway bar mounts from bending like crazy), but you'll have a whole new car and won't need to order stuff separately and do all the labor twice.