SoobyDoobyDoo

Thanks for the reply. That’s kind of what I’ve found...that seems to be the consensus on NASOIC too with the WRX/STI motors. AFAIK it’s running 5W30 Subaru Dino oil....I was going to switch to T6 or AMSOil 5W40. I figured 22 was ok...14 is pretty low and 18 isn’t much better. I’d rather have at least 20 so there’s flow.

Hey everyone got an oil pressure question. My cars been at the shop cause of high oil pressure issues. Just grasping at straws trying to figure out what’s going on or if it’s something obvious just haven’t thought about. New shortblock, heads, turbo, cam gears. OP readings are being taken from front oil galley above pump where the low OP warning sensor sits. It’s around 25 with a mechanical OP test gauge at idle. Tested gauge on another car and read normal so gauge works. From what I read in FSM idle should be 14 psi? Shop would like it around 18....seems low to me but I’m a noob to turbo Subaru’s. I also read should be 10psi for every 1k rpm. No banjo bolt filters, clean passages, oem oil pump. Any ideas? Bearing clearances too tight? Thanks in advance.

For what it's worth I just bought mine with 56k original miles on it for a little over $11k from a reputable dealer. They put 3K into repairing it (what it would have cost an average joe for repairs done) prior to purchase. Mine's also in (what I consider) excellent shape - garage kept, meticulously maintained (3 page carfax), two small dings on pass door, 1 small accident in the pass front which was repaired and disclosed on CarFax, cosmetic, no structural damage, airbags didn't deploy. It's an auto, limited model, leather, no cracks in upholstery. I'm new to turbo subarus but I'd agree with SageAbkatsor, $4-5k if you're lucky and someone's willing to pay that. If it had a new motor, definitely more, but I wouldn't say much more than $10k. When I bought mine it booked around $7k with mileage and condition - but I also beat out 4-5 other people wanting to buy it and another salesman walking in the door with a customer on the phone trying to get a deposit down on the car to reserve it, with my salesguy waiting on a call back for a deposit. I'm sure there were some salty people that day, lol. There's still people who want these cars, but with it needing a new motor, it's going to be someone who's willing to put in the work (or pay for it), and that'll narrow down the field of perspective buyers if someone's just looking for a reliable daily. Maybe try $4-5k OBO...if it's around $6k for a new motor install you're right at $10k which is a good deal for a good, reliable car that's easy to work on that'll put a smile on your face every time you get behind the wheel. Eat that, Audi. LOL.

That’s a sweet deal, start printing! Looks like a nice printer-just be careful with ABS fumes are nasty (ie bad for you/toxic). Do you have any 3D modeling programs? I was starting to work on a dual vent pod, but haven’t got very far. If you find anything already out there let us know so the wheel doesn’t get re-invented...

LOL funny you should ask. I bought a pair to do just that. If you end up doing it let me know, I think I mentioned to you I was wanting to do a dual gauge pod and print it...I bought it more to model the pod around the vent, but if you don't end up doing it let me know, I could probably model one.

In the event of a part-out, PM'd about the Nexus. I second UncleMat, that's a nice looking wagon, would hate to see it go to the yard, but I get not having time to work on it...

Hey Awful, how are the headlights? Any cloudiness? Might be interested in those-thanks!

Thanks for the replies, kinda what I figured. If it’s go gonna go, it’s gonna go but if I can save it I’d rather go down trying then completely give up. The turbo didn’t grenade or anything at least. Guess we’ll see. What’s your mileage?

Bringing this one back for an update. Car's back together - turns out (and this is me re-hashing so take it with a grain of salt) that the bearings on one side were getting loose and starting to let the turbines (???) play. Gonna see the CHRA tomorrow, it basically had play on one side. Housing was OK, they were able to re-use. Why is a mystery - they said it didn't appear to be oil starved or have cat pieces coming into the turbo (they checked and said it looked solid - still see a new uppipe in my very near future). Here's what I found odd - they're going to drive to make sure everything's ok, but they said if there's any issues, should popup within <100 mi....I'm planning on an oil flush (50mi, 100mi, 250, etc OCI for the next few, and mostly staying out of the boost for a while) after I get it back and Blackstone OA...thoughts? I guess I'm just being a cynic, Murphy's law doesn't play by any set rules and just looking to see what the voices of experience have to say, if anything. Thanks for listening.

Hey Final, Haven't had a whole lot of time to go back and add those but I'll try to work on it this week. Shouldn't be too hard/take much time. Personally I really like StkmltS, that looks sharp! I'm also looking to design a 40 mm pod for an omori gauge I just bought for whoever is interested...

Found out tonight they’re covering it! Caveat: it is a rebuild, which is fine with me. I get it, they’re not going to want to spend more money than they have to. They’d also be cool with me supplying a replacement turbo...so now the question is which would be better for longevity (new turbo vs rebuild) and reliability? Obviously the housing is a factor for a rebuild. I’ve been looking at Midwest turbo connections’ VF40 replacement (don’t want to push my luck with a 16g that requires a tune) but any recommendations for replacement cartridge assemblies? I’d be curious to see what they go with. I don’t think they’d cheap out because I’m sure they wouldn’t want the car back in 3 mos but is there a difference between an autozone cartridge and one from say Midwest turbo connection (they’re closer to me since they’re in WI) besides the thrust bearings? I don’t even know who the dealers supplier is/would be since IHI doesn’t sell replacement parts. Thanks everyone for putting up with all my noob questions...but I’m pretty excited to be getting my car fixed. I’ve been really missing it, despite all this...

Thanks Awful! Good call on the bridges and then removing them, I’ll go back and add that. I thought about closing the “L” and the “T” too but don’t know that it would look as good. I’ll do both and post screencaps.

Thanks for the reply, Max. I doubt it...they'll probably want OEM parts in there. My wifes cousin has a friend who runs/tracks an E85 tuned STi so I think I can get a hold of him for help on installing a catless. That's definitely on the list of things to buy. Good to know about the oil pan - it just didn't make boost so from what they've told me sounds like the cat disintegrated into the turbo...still waiting for info (at this point all I know is the turbo is blown). Sigh. When I lifted off the throttle during the test drive there was a slight pinging sound...he seemed to think that was the wastegate? Just curious what other people have to say. I've read about the resistor mod for the sensor delete...thought about seeing if I could find the mating connector itself (or one that would plug in) to make a little harness with the resistor so it wasn't just in the one connector with whatever against the elements. Thanks for the links, I'll update once I hear back.

Finished up a few things this weekend. First 2 might be more of what you're looking for. Total size is 2"x4" (based on what I found on standard STi emblem dimensions), about .125" thick. Not sure how you're wanting to install on the car. My only concern with printing this one would be the "L" and the "T" are the only things holding in the entire center section, that "G" could easily break out. Awful might be able to chime in more on that, that's just speaking from my 3D printing experience (which is limited). The other one is a 2-pc emblem. The lettering is the original I posted the other day and I designed the backing part to have a groove that follows the "LGT" lettering so that it can be printed out separately then glued in. Might be a better bet from a strength standpoint and if you wanted to paint the LGT and backing you could make them different colors like the STi emblems. Again, 2"x4", a little under .25" thick (with both pcs put together). Kinda hard to see but my computer doesn't really like inventor much anymore, it doesn't like me trying to change colors...guess the graphics card can't keep up. Awful, depending on what finallegacy wants I can PM you all the files (they're .ipt and .STL), or if you just want them to play around with, let me know I can send to you.

So update. Dealer has confirmed turbo is blown. Service advisor had to confirm but looks like they’re wanting to quote a new turbo and up-pipe (looks like cat took out turbo). Read through blown turbo wiki but looking for advice from people who have had blown turbos on post-blown turbo experience. At a min I’d like to: Replace oil pan, oil cooler, oil pickup, all oil lines Possibly ocv valves? (Just replaced) Black stone oil analysis After they replaced ocv valves car acted just fine...no God-awful noises, no CELs. Did short test drive w/master tech <.25 mi). Once cars back together, OCI at 250 miles, then 500, then 1000, 1500, then regular to flush. Anything else anyone can think of/suggest? This is assuming the short block isn’t toast during this whole process. Oh and op, ot, and boost gauges and catless upp.. Thanks for any advice.

Sorry had to figure out how to upload. Sigh.

Here’s a few screencaps-I’ll work on a backing this weekend. So far it’s 1/8” thick, I can thicken/thin it as needed.

PM me, I could probably convert it from .DWG to .STL for you...

That's what I've gathered from hours of profusely researching...hoping the excellent maintenance schedule from the PO will be my saving grace...

Thanks for the replies everyone-I’m hoping it’s just paranoia. I’m going to replace both OCVs and have the banjo bolts removed. Scopes that was definitely on the to-do list-op, ot, and boost. I’d rather know what’s going on and it blows my mind these cars didn’t come with those stock. AwfulWaffle thanks for the reference but I’m in Indy-just doing homework on what’s available if it comes to that. Turbo Concepts has a vf40 housing with Mitsubishi cartridge that they sell, so I was wondering if anyone had dealt with them. Talked to them the other day and great to talk to very informative and didn’t just try to sell me something.

Thanks for the reply - I was going to have them do that and maybe change the oil too, and check the oil lines to make sure they're not clogged. Anything else I should be aware of? If it is blown then I'll have them drop the pan and replace the oil cooler and check the pick up. Just hoping it doesn't come to that.

Hey everyone, New LGT owner here - 56k miles, all stock, bought as a daily so no crazy plans. Love driving it, but I have some concerns (I don’t know if this is the right place but thought I’d put it out there)…before it was brought in for trade it had the P0021 & P0011 codes and was a little low on oil from 2 oil leaks (dealer fixed both and changed oil, codes went away after during test drive). Also read about the banjo bolt filters on these and asked that they be cleaned/replaced/removed (whichever they thought was best). About after 1 week of driving, P0011 code came back close to home so I limped it home (didn’t get into boost, kept shifting around 2000-2500). Didn’t hear anything catastrophic from under the hood but I’m afraid there may be turbo damage…from what I’ve read it’s hard to tell without taking the uppipe off and looking for shaftplay…any thoughts? It’s going up there tomorrow (I’ve had ~2 weeks now) to have both OCVs replaced. Should I be concerned with a blown turbo? Thoughts? Edit: Anyone dealt with Turbo Concepts in Michigan?