SoobyDoobyDoo

Surely there are some CDN vendors/tuners up there (instead of dealer)? Maybe not in SK but in ON or BC or AB (they got all that oil money now lol) I imagine shipping wouldn’t be so bad from ON to Michigan but you’re out there. Try contacting Northwest Rally Sports, they’re in Washington state or Flat irons tuning in Colorado...maybe they know some shops closer to the western parts of CA? Just a thought.

Caveat emptor...im a noob but from what I’ve noticed a decent quality turbo will run several hundred dollars. IMHO this isn’t somewhere you want to skimp I’d try JMP like Max said, just see what he’d charge. A lot of people use BNR Supercars too.

Mines an 05, I’ve got one before the turbo, on the driver head and pass head. Might have better luck with the 08, not too familiar with those.

Check the rear main seal and oil filter housing (cooler?) seal-both were leaking on mine before I bought it and it had the P0011 & P0021 code. Went away after an oil change and seal replacement only to come back and bite my turbo in the ass. You should probably do an oil analysis to make sure the main bearings are ok among other things, check out the turbo failure wiki. Where are you looking at for new turbos for that cheap? Those prices sound like EBay/China turbos. Beware cheap prices...

Glad to hear it-I hate it that the valves can take out the turbo, but glad you caught it in time. Not to scare you but keep an ear on it, just to make sure everything’s ok. I think with mine, when I got it, I limped home (thankfully I was only a few miles so it was a short drive) and stayed out of the boost but there was enough damage done in that short time (or was already started and this just accelerated the process) that it started the downward slide. I’ve been looking for some aftermarket lines...more experienced people on here say stock are fine but after that I’d rather have a better dedicated oil supply for the turbo. Just my $0.02.

Think there might be some out there already. Check GitHub/other sites where you can download STLs. I’m sure someone’s made them by now...

FWIW when it happened to me dealer said to use OEM only, not aftermarket. Sucks since these aren’t cheap (think I paid high 80s/pc for both on rockauto, close to $200 with shipping but better than close to $200/pc at my dealer) but that’s not something you want to skimp on either, since soon after I got that code, bye bye went my turbo.

Pm sent about Navi unit

Here’s a link: http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1734&prodid=7451&pagetitle=Gagelites-Warning-Light-Kit---15-50-psi-Oil-Pressure-1%2f8%22-NPT Bought something similar (20 psi pressure warning sensor) and was going to tie it to a relay to cut ignition power...but that’s on a 350 sbc with carb and HEI dist on my other project car (street/strip/corner carving)...little different than a LGT. Hope that helps people with an alternative to the stock low OP sensor issue. Y’a not crazy about sandwich adapters...almost bought one but glad I did some more research first.

Thanks for the reply, I did some math and based on 14psi at 600, if you take that and move it up proportionately to 800-900 rpm it’s right around 20/21 psi, which makes sense...ya the stock low oil pressure sensor is pretty worthless. Longacre racing makes an adjustable one...I think from 15-50 psi. Thought about putting that one in the back oil galley since my OP gauge will use the front oil valley. But with a 15psi low OP light at least you’ve got more of a fighting chance than at 2.5psi. My 85 S10 is the same way...uses high mileage 10w30 but it’s pretty high until it gets warm, then it drops to around half (can’t remember exact #s), it’s the 2.8 v6. I’d feel better with 20~psi at idle and then 80 at 3k rpm....that way it’s flowing and doing what it’s supposed to...

Thanks for the reply. That’s kind of what I’ve found...that seems to be the consensus on NASOIC too with the WRX/STI motors. AFAIK it’s running 5W30 Subaru Dino oil....I was going to switch to T6 or AMSOil 5W40. I figured 22 was ok...14 is pretty low and 18 isn’t much better. I’d rather have at least 20 so there’s flow.

Hey everyone got an oil pressure question. My cars been at the shop cause of high oil pressure issues. Just grasping at straws trying to figure out what’s going on or if it’s something obvious just haven’t thought about. New shortblock, heads, turbo, cam gears. OP readings are being taken from front oil galley above pump where the low OP warning sensor sits. It’s around 25 with a mechanical OP test gauge at idle. Tested gauge on another car and read normal so gauge works. From what I read in FSM idle should be 14 psi? Shop would like it around 18....seems low to me but I’m a noob to turbo Subaru’s. I also read should be 10psi for every 1k rpm. No banjo bolt filters, clean passages, oem oil pump. Any ideas? Bearing clearances too tight? Thanks in advance.

For what it's worth I just bought mine with 56k original miles on it for a little over $11k from a reputable dealer. They put 3K into repairing it (what it would have cost an average joe for repairs done) prior to purchase. Mine's also in (what I consider) excellent shape - garage kept, meticulously maintained (3 page carfax), two small dings on pass door, 1 small accident in the pass front which was repaired and disclosed on CarFax, cosmetic, no structural damage, airbags didn't deploy. It's an auto, limited model, leather, no cracks in upholstery. I'm new to turbo subarus but I'd agree with SageAbkatsor, $4-5k if you're lucky and someone's willing to pay that. If it had a new motor, definitely more, but I wouldn't say much more than $10k. When I bought mine it booked around $7k with mileage and condition - but I also beat out 4-5 other people wanting to buy it and another salesman walking in the door with a customer on the phone trying to get a deposit down on the car to reserve it, with my salesguy waiting on a call back for a deposit. I'm sure there were some salty people that day, lol. There's still people who want these cars, but with it needing a new motor, it's going to be someone who's willing to put in the work (or pay for it), and that'll narrow down the field of perspective buyers if someone's just looking for a reliable daily. Maybe try $4-5k OBO...if it's around $6k for a new motor install you're right at $10k which is a good deal for a good, reliable car that's easy to work on that'll put a smile on your face every time you get behind the wheel. Eat that, Audi. LOL.

That’s a sweet deal, start printing! Looks like a nice printer-just be careful with ABS fumes are nasty (ie bad for you/toxic). Do you have any 3D modeling programs? I was starting to work on a dual vent pod, but haven’t got very far. If you find anything already out there let us know so the wheel doesn’t get re-invented...

LOL funny you should ask. I bought a pair to do just that. If you end up doing it let me know, I think I mentioned to you I was wanting to do a dual gauge pod and print it...I bought it more to model the pod around the vent, but if you don't end up doing it let me know, I could probably model one.

In the event of a part-out, PM'd about the Nexus. I second UncleMat, that's a nice looking wagon, would hate to see it go to the yard, but I get not having time to work on it...

Hey Awful, how are the headlights? Any cloudiness? Might be interested in those-thanks!

Hey Final, Haven't had a whole lot of time to go back and add those but I'll try to work on it this week. Shouldn't be too hard/take much time. Personally I really like StkmltS, that looks sharp! I'm also looking to design a 40 mm pod for an omori gauge I just bought for whoever is interested...

Thanks Awful! Good call on the bridges and then removing them, I’ll go back and add that. I thought about closing the “L” and the “T” too but don’t know that it would look as good. I’ll do both and post screencaps.

Finished up a few things this weekend. First 2 might be more of what you're looking for. Total size is 2"x4" (based on what I found on standard STi emblem dimensions), about .125" thick. Not sure how you're wanting to install on the car. My only concern with printing this one would be the "L" and the "T" are the only things holding in the entire center section, that "G" could easily break out. Awful might be able to chime in more on that, that's just speaking from my 3D printing experience (which is limited). The other one is a 2-pc emblem. The lettering is the original I posted the other day and I designed the backing part to have a groove that follows the "LGT" lettering so that it can be printed out separately then glued in. Might be a better bet from a strength standpoint and if you wanted to paint the LGT and backing you could make them different colors like the STi emblems. Again, 2"x4", a little under .25" thick (with both pcs put together). Kinda hard to see but my computer doesn't really like inventor much anymore, it doesn't like me trying to change colors...guess the graphics card can't keep up. Awful, depending on what finallegacy wants I can PM you all the files (they're .ipt and .STL), or if you just want them to play around with, let me know I can send to you.

Sorry had to figure out how to upload. Sigh.

Here’s a few screencaps-I’ll work on a backing this weekend. So far it’s 1/8” thick, I can thicken/thin it as needed.

PM me, I could probably convert it from .DWG to .STL for you...