darthqwo

I took pictures of my control arms ; the wheels are fully turned in those pictures and here's from my youtube, so feel free to hit the thumbs up and subscribe. That video is from the interior when the thudding is most audible; when recording from the outside it is hard to hear the thudding over the road noise, but from what i can tell the wheel doesn't seem to noticeably bind. hmm now that i see my own pictures i wonder if my loose rod nuts might have something do with it; the alignment was not a professional job--it was done by me using my phone's orientation/gps sensors. could you let me know if the clunk sounds simliar

it is 275s front and 245s rear; they are bfg track tires taken from a porsche 911 4s. The reason my 275s don't rub is large 18x9et42 offset only possible with the outback struts; from my measurement, even coilovers would require spacers. I will get in a picture one of these days... It is the outer wheel on a turn that seems to drag; so if turning left then skids the passenger side wheel, which is then further away from the control arm, and yet there is space to fill. The front tires clear everything. So you're saying if it were a locking center diff, both front tires would be skidding? It's possible, but i doubht this what is happening; I will have to pay closer attention and see if there is anything else it is hitting. Actually my initilal thought had been that there is a maximum difference that he two front axles can turn without regards to the rear differential; is this a possibility?

it was time for new struts and still had the factory wheels--twelve years and counting. the locking up was unanticipated obviously and only emerged once i backed up the first time--I am justing letting the forum know since it is probably a first. It is a factory suspension, and there is even more space on the inside of the wheel--of course, you owuld have to agree with me it is offset causing issue--but now i know not go further in; the motivation being trying to contain as much fo the tire as possible inside the body without fender flares. Plus, it all fit properly without any modifications, spacers, or extended stud bolts; it clears the fender, body lines, and bumper--not much hassle unless you also include good planning and measurement.

i will just try my own idea and put on more meat since it is only an issue with parallel parking and full-lock steering; if someone has input on possible damages from this in the parking lot id appreciate your input--when it happens the outer axle locks up and the outer front tire does a thudding skid on the pavement while the other three tires roll fine; it is more pronounced when backing up it is more useful if your comments would be less sarcastic; even from the start seems you only to want to mock the tires because you thought they wouldn't work with subaru awd; im rather surprised your mocking turns into a lesson for you about staggered size equivalences--im pretty sure there are many examples of this in the thread suspension was explained already above

if you do another comuptation my diametric difernce is equivalent to a difference of 2.2 32nds inches in front-rear tire tread difference; but ive seen this to be ok

the offset matters here since it is large in my setup since the inner wheel will rotate more than the outer; the differentials can tolerate a range of difference otherwise it wouldn't be able to turn. on the current setup it has a difference of 3.5mm, but i've run 225/45r17 with 2015/50r17 front-rear staggered another another subaru without issue. so i computed this for my planned upgrade (penultiamte post), and the differnece is only .5mm; so with this detail i guess i will being going up a size

initial post omitted aspect ratio but this could be inferred from post that follwoed: 275/35r18et42 245/40r18et50 sidewall height is equivalent to 215/45r18et55, whih is stock on 3.0r limited fyi; my axes are heri hd axles; and it is stock ride height so you think it might be an issue with the rear differnetial causing lock up; even without staggered front-rear sizing this can be achieved by running 1.5" spacers, which ive not seen being warned against on subarus

Hmm; just a point to note with the setup. With front tires so huge--22mm deeper on the inside and 38mm more outside (stock tire is 215 45 18 et 55)--center differential seems to lock up the outer axle when turning out of the parking lot at full lock at slow speed. If someone has any input here or comments it is appreciated. Suspension details; front and rear struts are 04 outback; the spring perches are higher by 40mm and 25mm, respectively. Despite lowered springs, the front is riding a bit higher than the rear, so I guess I be fillin that space by upgrading the tires to size front 275 40 18 and rear 245 45 18 at the next change. although a bit late to the game I do believe i have the largest tires on the forum; comments? btw it is a legacy 3.0r; more pictures to come unbelieve omg

Nice, mate; wha front 275 on 18x9 et 42 rear 245 on 18x8 et 50 single-exit dual-tip (dual layer, rolled, 100mm; nice!) invidia exhaust (from 2015-gen wrx) custom suspension ps. body unmodified; also no, rub please let me know what you think, all. omg thankss

i wonder this, as the 2.5l versions have altogether separable (from distributor cap) harnesses that come with the ignition coil, but the 3.0r have cap-in-coil set-up, and the wires seem to be permanently part of the engine harness going under the intake manifold and and having several splits with other wires; and so are not evidently replaceable. After a decade the plastic connector tips have gone under corrosion. Appreciate input from anyone omg thanks.

for a guy who did DIY you can generally only purchase 5'x 50', so emergent is question how to maneurver the vinyl if using a single piece. to my intuition it seems the way to go is lay down vinyl flat over roof; then make a slit in middle at rear windshield and wrap each rear half over the quarter panel This is another example; the front panels look continuous, but cannot really see the back side on this one.

this thread is dated, i realise, but i am wondering if there were multiple sheets to wrap from the roof down to the rear quarter panels; in particular i am wondering how how this can be done froma single continuous sheet to match the body lines i am planning to wrap as well omg thanks

I don't think you need to spread the ears. The ball joint has a recess where the pinch bolt secures it to the knuckle; the pinch bolt does not apply pressure on the ears itself, and the spec is only about 34 ft-lbs. So if anyone has kept track of the number of my fuckles, the third one was spread at the ears without cracking to insert a defective ball joint, and here is a an update on that fuckle. I reheated the ears before operating and put the old ball joint back in to bring the ears to their original place using the pinch bolt (here I used a brand new pinch bolt for fear the old ones would just break inside). The threads of both the bolt and the bore stripped almost completely due to the thread angles being unaligned, and it now just spins freely.

Do you have a link to the 'black cone thing'?

The driver side knuckle cracked already between the ears after applying air hammer; a second knuckle broke at the pinch bolt; i am on third knuckle and have the ears spread, but it is unrealisticto spread further without damage, and still ball joint does not go in. For reference, the old ball joints that were pulled all go in without issue. The mevotech driverside ball joint is too big; i am thikning it is a manufacturing specification defect; how do i know? As i mentioned i had no issue with passengerside ball joint; i removed it from the passenger knuckle to see if it fits in the driverside. Unbelievable, mevotech. That is three fuckles over this manufcaturing defect.

Im having trouble with the new ball joint (For reference it is the mevotech cms80181 control arm and ball joint) going in on driver knuckle; the passenger side went in easily just like all the youtube videos, but driver side got me scratching head. I even got a second knuckle and the same thing happened; it does not go in. It sits on top of the bore and just slips when you apply pressure; sledge is ineffective. I pulled my ball joints using the astro pneumatic tool 87620. I have the advance auto loaner tool to try to press it in, but the pressure would be applied on the ball joint threads; seems to stabilise the ball joint somewhat, and i tried just once, but it still slips, and i am not going to force it. Either i need a brand new knuckle or a third used knuckle; or my new ball joint is out of spec in terms of size; or the astro puller tool is altering the knuckle. Appreciate any input; omg thanks

i'm an idiot. i replaced spark plug #4 instead of #2, which has the misfires. i put the plug taken out from #4 into #2; now the misfire happens just once or twice instead of ten times; so probably it was the spark plug that fouled; im inclined to think the spark plug from #4 also has issues, so eventually that will be replaced, but i am still scratching my head i guess will hold off doing another aggressive pull until after i clean the egr valve; i will probably need new egr gaskets yes, pcv valve and pcv hose both new

So now I am getting a persistent misfire in cylinder 2. On startup it misfires some 10 times every 10 seconds until i start driving, at which point it is occasional at low rpm, such as everytime it shifts down. I already replaced the spark plug and is still happening. Any ideas anyone?omg thanks

Just the stock intake: throttle to airbox to hose with MAF sensor to air filter box to snorkel. Maybe i could reclean the MAF; right now i am driving around withtou the undercarriage and right wheel well moudlings, so there bunch of soot at random places I have never changed the sensors on the exhaust. Is there a way to tell if the o2 sensor is bad from looking at the data; in particular, i have never seen "O2 Rear (V)" change from 327.7? Also, this guy did the as me with same result (but seems to blame o2 sensor in comments) Anyways I went back on freessm on debian linux and cleared absolutely everything (ecm and tcm).

So given ive replaced everything else the only thing left is egr valve which on this car is hiding under the intake manifold; i hope it is sufficient to spray it down with brake kleen. comments? i also still have an air leak, just letting 'erbody 'no, at the intake manifold. So with these there is probalby nothing left to repair on the top of eingine. as for the other thing on the tranny i may add some lucas fix for transexuals

I stepped hard on the accelerator from 0 to 60 for about a quarter mile, going through all the gears, and then came to a stop. This is the first time that this happened, but the engine was misfiring on all cylinders and almost stalling out, even though it is a 5EAT automatic. I went through a few turn-on-and-off cycles a few times, looked in engine bay for loose hoses found none. I just misfired on and on; engine shaking from misfires on the mounts; een the exhaust was noticeably rough. Mine auto has been done to a fuqtun of maintenace: all vacuum hoses new, timing chian tensioners new, water pump new; new 5w30 synthetic oil and coolant flush and mani-fold atf drain and replenish. When i replaced the timing tensioners two weeks ago, the LH exhaust cam was off by one tooth, and even this was fixed. Fuel injector, ignition coils, spark plugs also all new. Apart from that It makes a whining noise audible at startup, idle, and low-speeds that at this point is coming from a transmission bearing or back side of the engine; i listened on a mechanic stethoscope, and there is no sound from the timing cover or ps pump but is the same type of sound. If anybody has any comment what it might be, please let me know. Fuel pressure was tested not long ago and strong. Despite sound transmission shifting very smoothly in all gears; previously slipping 30% of the time between 2nd and 3rd, but with another atf drain cylce, this is almost gone but still there maybe 5-10% (if anyone notes p0700 is codes, that code no longer flashing but happend during drain.) Perhaps ECU needs reset after the timing tooth of LH exhaust gear was fixed? Maybe transmission is dying anyway and caused this? Pressing on the gas pedal would accelerate the misfires to a degree; throtlte response delayed from stop to due the lack of consistent power in all cylinders. Diagnosed for 30 mins, but i just started driving off again, and then it just stopped misfiring and went back to normal without a single misfire. I am lost as to what had happened. Any body have ideas? omg thanx

Reference pics a, b, c, d that i found. I realise we are going in circles here on this forum, going backwards in progress smh omg

i came to the inferenace that the headers bolt on the same since there are exhaust manifolds (although i lost the links ) that are for both 3.6 and 3.0 ; 3.6 version puts the oxygen sensors further back on the cat section, so the stock 3.0r sensors would be short on wire, assuming the sockets are even the same, but here i don't see why the 3.6 o2 sensors couldnt substitute; but this would be the primary difference up to the first y pipe you know what; i am just going to roll with these until next vehicle inspection; no cats for me! does anyone have a trick for the oxygen sensors if i don't do the cats (as i know they're necessary for fuel trims)

I noticed these aftermarket headers for teh 3.0/3.6 l h6 engine but am left wondering what options there are for attaching cats; if anyone knows please comment omg thanks

There is a way to do this with help from google; Im not a big fan or anything of spec b, and why are two ofthe last three spec b's posted here haveblown engines.