darthqwo

i recently had a starting issue with mention of cam sensors; not sure if it will fix your issue, but mine is worth a read

just a quick check, as sometimes it is an issue; are your ground straps connected on the bottom?

context: 2008 (fourth gen) naturally aspirated legacy sat on ramps in my driveway the whole summer with the oil drained and oil pan removed; i primarily suspect corrosion to the rods are suspect since now the car is back together, but you can now see silver metal in the oil, overheating engine, and faint taps in early stages of rod knock. objective: now i want to retrofit the FB25 motor from model years 2013-2014 legacy/outback (or 2012-2013 forester; this model year retains hydraulic power steering pulley) but is the current motor, but there are some differences to note. so, i would appreciate if anyone has insight on if this can be done. (i hae already heard the complaints about the newer motors, but as someone shopping for an engine the fb25 engines are a full generation younger, supply and demand has made the FB25 cheaper than the EJ25, and i appreciate the timing chain; next, the oil pan shape accommodates a bolt on garrett turbo from 2015+ wrx for a low boost application, which was the original reason my oil pan was off for fitting, causing the whole issue) more info: in model years 2010-2012 the (fifth generation legacy with ej25) moved to ignition coils from plug wires and distributor cap; so this is the first question, is the ecu from fourth gen still plug and play here even with the early fifth generation model years where the motor is still an EJ25 SOHC. In 2013-2014 model years it moved to twin cams and a timing chain and significant hardware internal hardware changes with the FB25 motor, but the harness seems mostly the same with the ej25 motor from earlier fifth gen legacy, but it is unclear if ecu would be blind to these changes. question: can i use the ej25 ecu from fourth gen on this new motor, in particular noting the physical coil wiring difference? i suspect the harness connections will all connect inside the engine bay and into the original ecu; actually the fb25 ecu from 2013-2014 is still physically identical from fourth gen, as you can compare from pictures. if needed i can connect fb25's ecu, but wondering if it would be necessary; next, granted it is going to run, i have the intention to run logs and tune it with the romraider software and a tactrix cable, but the primary question is if the fourth gen ecu can run this engine will transmission differences (cvt from 13-14 versus 4EAT from 08-09) impact startup and operation appreciate any input omg thanks

Say, if i just have the headers without catback, so the exhaust is exposed right after the second o2 sensor, wouldn't this unviable? For take a look at this picture; clearly the sensor is prone to sensing oxygen from the atmosphere and not the exhaust. But another question is that since this is a catless header with just empty flexpipe between the two sensors, is there really a difference between the two? appreciate any input; thanks

i got it to crank a few hours ago as the sun was setting. sorry guys, i missed * so many of your redundant points. amidst the attention to grounding and the starter solenoid, somehwere in your suggestions i missed moving the jumper clamp to the positive bolted connectoin. following, i got it to start, and it seems to idle smoothly despite also throwing more codes p0118 for teh coolant temperature sensors, but the problem probably is in the harness, which im hoping is contained to the main power portion. you are probably rite on tis point; i just read way too many forums about the codes and cars not starting to point me in the wrong direction about the ecu, but i also saw earlier a video of an engine being cranked from an engine stand *. i actually did a voltage drop test, or at least some version of it when i noted voltage would not drop at teh battery upon turning the key, but i was mistaken to connect this behaviour to the ecu. so, when i was testing the starter i also didnt' realise ti was suppose to spin dangerously fast, which it did upon testing it properly oy vey omg thanks

thanks for the input! the original starter bench tested fine at the solenoid; to be complete, the replacement comes from another working 2008 subaru legacy 2.5i (same starter) and i didn't apply power direclty to the solenoid from the battery, as the wires all seem fine according to the multimeter--although i only tested for voltage, not for amperage. i will give it a go before new sensors arrive, but i have already jumped on new sensors after reading up on my codes. it is a possible amperage issue with the wires, but this will probably extend then to beyond the starter connections, notably wires connected my trouble codes--which may not be cheap to resolve. i would emphasize again that both starters behaved exactly the same, so i am left to blame both starters, blame the wiring from an amperage delivery standpoint, or blame the sensors or any combination of the above i made some omission in the prior detail about when the car sat for a month; for it started up fine on its own, but i then did the oil change right after with sams 10w-40. then, following three drives each between 2.8 to 5.6 miles on consecutive days, each time requiring a jump start, were the initial instances of the problem. one more omission is that i also straight piped one of the mufflers at the time, as i am no longer going into jersey on a daily basis; the latter is notable since the exhaust vibrations have untorqued some bolts in the past by the rear subframe. i appreciate the help; i will add details as they become available

cranking normally does not come from the starter; it is from the engine after a response from the ecu with inputs from the sensors. however, it clicks and both of my starters are functional; again, new battery as well, and multimeter tests voltage across starter solenoid at 12v when key turned with 12v also at the bolted starter connections. the original starter actuates with power applied to solenoid connector, whihc i tested since it has been pulled out

i am lead at this point to think the sensors are bad and am tracing this back possibly to my previous code p0028 for intake valve solenoid bank 2, as there are some threads that say condtitions from this code can imply my other ones, which have now returned while car is in park, as here the ecu will preempt engine start up without these critical sensors. i am suspecting the sam's club prime series 10w-40 is also possible culprit; it is conventional oil where upon scrutiny it indicates api service sn plus, sn, sm, sl on bottle, which i am not sure is sufficient, but previously i have used the same brand 5w-30 twice. i went for three short drives after putting in this oil without changing oil filter when the startup issues began requiring jump start. the reason for suspecting this is that in the course of reading up on the codes, some have indicated that higher viscosity leads to higher oil pressure and in consequence incorrect sensor data, damaged sensors, and damaged internals. if anyone has any input here it is welcome so at the moment i am just going to dump the oil and put it in a ford or a lawnmower; and wait on new sensors. it does not crank despite 12v directed at solenoid with key turned to on-position; just clicks in the driver side of engine. if i turn crank manually with key at on position, it makes the same sound, so this shows starter mechanism is doing something similar.

atm codes aren't coming back, but with this code combination one reseated the crank pos sen, another had issue with starter solenoid but had an issue with no clicking at all, another with no click but auto-resolved next day with something about a wife, another with the engine running with the codes but not at full power, another with these codes plus more codes with harness fault but no mention of mere clicking or cranking So mine clicks but not cranks; crank pulley turns over fine manually. Again 12v voltage tested at solenoid when turning key with 12v at the starter's bolted connexions. So, planning reseat of crank pos sens.

gr8 suggestion! so, i tried this; same result. also fixed the ground strap on one side; as the other ground strap i had disintegrated during install. car ran for the past 18 months without any of the ground straps actually but i wonder at this poitn if this contributed to the sensor failures... i reset the battery once again and now have trouble reproducing the same codes, so not tempted to replace the crank and cam position sensors quite yet. is there a way to help the codes? not sure what to do...

which one? (is there a diagram thx!) is one?

I was driving around fine just a week ago after jump start since it had sat for a month. It started up a couple times but required a jump start each time after turning off the engine. Now it clicks; battery & starter replaced with good ones; originals probably good also. Still clicks; and after starting up with new battery cruise light is flashing with above codes. (Previously i had one additional code (p0028 intake valve control solenoid bank two) that triggered flashing cruise that happened after a hard pull around new years, but i cleared it and ignored it without issue. Wonder if it could be a general harness issue; voltage good at starter solenoid, however. If there is anything else to check please point it out thanks.) The codes google up as crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor a lh. If anyone has experience with this issue i shall apprecaite your insights i need help omg thanks

but outside test cells there would need to be an air filter and nonetheless a maf between the belmouth and turbo?

omg thanks omg thanks i want to put one in the passenger fog light and then route silicone tubing up to the airbox but wonder if that would defeat the purpose of efficiency do i have it wrong, or does the compressor face need air separately from the air inlet on turbo

Pardon me for sounding like an idiot, but i have never seen things like e. They look like turboes, but it would make no sense to be mounted right up front. I would guess they are air ducts, so somebody please write it down below what that is. They are not fourth gen and neither subarus, but the second one is a second gen impreza. omg thanks.

the turbo manifold for the 2010-2012 legacies has a different mounting bolt pattern to the turbo than the fa20 manifolds but has otherwise mostly the same shape; i figure this is good to note. (the nonturbos for those model years use the regular exhaust manifold but they all have the same oil pan; so this pan is in no short supply) so i would just get the baffle plate from that model year too, and all seems it should slap on. i was in agony over fitment for several days; but this solves those issues for my project. this is my first turbo, and i love you omg

so i looked into it, and it is a fascinating note, tolland--omg thanks; this adapts the oil pan for the new fa20 manifold to the ej25 short block; it is like one of those intermediary dinosaurs that go extinct between the main dinosaurs. So it is a two-piece oil pan and on ebay you only see the lower part of the pan, which you'd think is the whole pan; but it is not! i just need to check the oil pickup flange mounts the same way, but with this it sure saves a lot of money compared to the other idea

wow i didn't realise fifth gen lgt has the same manifold as the 2015 wrx. i did look, though, at the fifth gen legacy oil pan, but ti is different with less screw holes than the regular ej25 pans; do you know how to make it fit on the regular ej25 motor? omg thanks!

i have another thread entitled turboing 2.5i but got no replies cause i bashed lgt owners. Correct; that would be the oil return hole; it needs an actual filter or pseudo filter; i am plumbing the oil feed through a sandwich plate, but a filter wouldn't fit with the regular wrx manifold. so i don't think i need to do this anymore, but i was thinking of deleting the oil filter. the turbo is the 2015 wrx turbo, but the fourth gen wrx does not have an oil filter in the south. I actually have a bigger issue than this, that being a the 6.5 inch ej25 oil pan the fa20dit manifold won't fit over without extensions. also, if anyone wants to know i am planning to put in a 4.5" aluminum oil pan with a tomei baffle Nonetheless, I will need extensions at the flange that I will have to weld pipes to or just stack flanges; i just don't want 3-inch extensions at the flange

i am looking for a cap to substite an oil filter at the bottom of the engine. Web search begets a cap fits onto the filter itself, but I am looking for one to fit onto the engine block southside; or if there is a low-profie oil filter. omg thanks

Hmm i still wonder how i will set the psi on the boost controller; aftermarket boost controller still plugs into the ecu. my heater control idea is wrong since that would only at most if even actuate the wastegate when it needs to open; even to start i am wondering how to just keep wastegate open

video is worth a look, as that is the i will use; comments? That was two months ago, so people don't exact post videos everyday of their car, but it takes a troll owner of an lgt to believe that car is not still running. Im gonna post pictures when i get rolling; right now i am collecting parts. As for boost controller quorum I think the manual will give voltage numbers to actuate the wastegate; here i might be able to use spare heater control dials as an electronic boost controller. moreover i imagein it should sufficie just leaving this under a certain number. It still remains to inspect boost levels as the engine revs up from example tune graphs; i conjecturethat the slopes and shapes are almost identical on all cars. Ideally boost managment for this car would dial down at the higher revs, but honestly as long as drive normally as i do everyday (i.e., don't redline or hard pull needlessly) it might just amount to insurance; so if this is the case i would not need to invest in an engine harness and lgt ecu map as long as this setup survives. Appreciate any input omg tahnks

Nice; im surprsied you got a tune on just cold air at atmospheric bar. What were your watts and neuton meters like following the tune?

So I know it is just encouraged to buy LGT, but here is one thread directly related https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/avo-turbo-kit-na-official-thread-119828.html and with the help of a few examples i have seen on youtube it has emboldened me just like the presidency the economic nationalists. In order to go forward with this I need to address two questions I haven't seen the answer to, both relating to engine management. 1. Boost solenoid harness connection; okay since the 4EAT 2.5i NA doesn't normally have a harness connection for this, what can be done here; let's assume my turbo will have an electronic boost control solenoid for the purpose of the this question. 2. Since 2.5i is NA has anyone ever tuned on this ecu? Is this compatible even with Cobb Accessport? Anyone ever fickled with the 2.5 na ecu? Is it ficklable? (If at all possible I want to to retain my own ecu given the complications of subaru immobiliser.) omg thanks

Sorry for delay; i haven't been driving the car after my exhaust midpipe started clanking against the driveshaft at the flange after it hit a deer that i ran over; there was bloodshed to clean, but fortulately not too much, but definitely some hair and flesh on the flange bolts. Separately, i fell ill. But to answer you rquestion, wheels and tires are clear from rub on front. Follwoing my own pictures I tightned my nuts real good, but persists the problem. I still dont have a firm idea of the cause with the wheels still bolted; i have a new idea of what might be the cause however. My latest idea is that this results due to the difference in where the tie rods steer each wheel due to the extreme offsets during turns together with the fact that these are sticky tires. There is a difference in skid cadence depending on road friction, such as when it rains--the tires have less grip, and the skidding thuds are more frequent. If it still happens with regular tires, then I suspect it is still due to the extreme offset and still possibly sufficient tire friction a well as the differential locking up is still a possibility. Unfortunately, if it doesn't i will not really know if offset is not an issue, as the tires are no longer sticky, but this would rule out the differential locking suspicion. Here is a porsche thread that talks about this issue.