darthqwo

Yep tried it; also tried ftdi v1.4 like in your op. Can you write down your windows hardware please, as it might be hardware. I am on samsung book 12 and lenovo 110s for windows, the latter also for linux, and i7-9700t-chipped asus linux box.

I am trying to set up on linux and getting: The output is not correct; nonhex. I know i am using it and got everything installed, but i really can't work around in linux unless the instructions are step-by-step, as i suspect the usb device is not able to be claimed in the lines. I also tried two flavors of windows 8.1 and 10--both 64-bit--but both did not set up correctly; both with a "win32 error" upon doing: I can try to install a windows 32-bit and try again, but this would be like the third day attempting this straight. Then I will try to find a mac, and I have never used a mac.

ecu is specific motor not to chassis, but seeing the biu and keys weren't probably swapped probably it was prob original ecu. this topic was covered sort of recently in one of the threads, but that concerned an ecu being blind to sohc vs dohc it is capable, and it was said crank blew through, but it was also boosted to 45 pounds i can give you his number and shop address if you don't believe me, but he doesn't seem the type to fiddle with keys, clusters, and biu...

it was station wagon chassis with standard 6sp manual, but chassis probably doesn't matter; it is possible the old harness was also swapped over, but the original ecu was retained. now that i think about it it is possible he swapped over some sensors, but i was mostly attentive to cross member compatibility between fa/fb and ej, which in a nutshell retains all compatiblity across all models with the exception of 5th gen legacy ejs due to the oil pan (actually not sure of legacy fb versions, but all impreza/crosstrek/forester fbs seem to retain) i would normally raise a question to due 25 vs 20 displacement, but possibly ecu is blind to it

my fourth gen sohc legacy does not seem to have the orange connector, but earlier ej25 does by the main ecu plug, as does the fb25, and my firewall grommet only has the one main plug along with the maf sensor so, i am planning a motor swap, but the missing orange connector raises the question omg thanks

wow that is a lot of feedback waiting for a new member but anyway manual swaps are easy; just need a manual version of ecu for the new engine. from what i have heard, the ecu doesn't even need to be from an ej, as i know someone who did a drop in replacement with a fa20 on a 2014 wrx

im just saying it just got a lot easier after a little more research on model years; anyone with 4EAT can put in a FB25 motor with a forester ecu from the early model years that make it compatible, and this is probably around the same money as a head gasket job on your ej253. plus, the fb25 long blocks retain interchange compatibility through 2018 #but worth pointing out if i already didn't they ship with hydraulic power steering pulley only in the early models years for each model, so you would have to shop for this too i will fix my headgasket first, and then do a swap; it is in the agenda but uncertain when

for completeness

so, a little belated detail for completeness the foresters between 2011-2013 are all fb25 engine with 4EAT transmissions lol; moreover, crossmember (engine cradle) compatibility is retained between engine generations on the forester backwards through 2009 and is the same on the imprezas turbo and nonturbo from 2008-2014, according to part numbers. #this is a no-go for the 2010-2012 legacies/outbax where the oil pan would hit the crossmember at the upper and lower pan rears; these aren't fb25s but they are ej25s with an oil pan unique to the fifth gen to accommdoate the garret turbo from the fa20 the reason this is significant is any other model and year with the fb25 automatics will have a cvt and require a complete drivetrain swap complete with dash harness and tcu; also it wasn't clear from the other models and years about crossmember compatiblity. so one could just drop in an fb25 motor, and all you need is an ecu from a forester from these model years to complete the swap while retaining your 4eat; i checked the tcu for these model years, and it appears to look identical, so a dash harness swap would be also unnecessary unlike the cvt models (i.e., imprezas, legacies). so for anyone wanting to make a swap this is the way to go. #also need forester biu, instrument cluster, and key--or follow this guide.

So someone helping me--this person is the machinist in my last post and my insulter in my second post--says that there might be something else apart from head gaskets that is wrong. This stems from the fact that there are no misfires and the fact that water pressure is emerging smoothly from all four cylinders instead of just one; the exhaust is emerging from the top radiator hose without misfire from all four cylinders. This could point to some other damage to an area that would link exhaust and water lines--possibly damage to the short block--or to head gaskets again but head gaskets that have corroded at both cylinders on both sides at four different places simultaneously. He is an engine whisperer--a horse whisperer but with engines--and, feeling the idling engine, senses all four cylinders from the top water hose; and so, this could also be wrong. omg thanks

given the symptoms the first thing that would warp would be the cylinders and ringlands followed by waterways, right? but instead i think it might be there is an exhaust leak into teh cooling compartment that is responsible for the pressure, and headgaskets would go first before the other things. in addition, i don't believe it is actually misfiring--although it might be--and there are no codes for misfires. to confirm it is only the exhaust i disconnected top radiator hose to find exhaust coming through, and reverely i also suspect water exits through the exhaust; and this would be where teh pressure in the cooling is coming from. in addition, the oil has not mixed with the water either, so this is a good sign that there is not severe damage my plan is to do the head gaskets with the engine left in the engine bay and to not remove the short block, so wit this plan the short block would not be resurfaced; but how necessary generally is it to do a machine shop resurface on the surfaces? an adviser, former machinist, and master mechanic has looked at my problem here but advises that he has never done a a resurface on heads when doing gaskets... omg thanks

nice guys! the water emerging backwards happens when radiator is freshly filled; otherwise, it is bubbling in the overflow tank a good deal and white smoke from teh exhaust -- headgasket! there are no misfires once it starts up, but it does struggle on startup since overheating on the highway; i know this should be least of my worries, but would new headgaskets fix start-up struggle? this is just someone saying i am a stupidhead and saying water pump was spinning backwards, but it goes together one way only, as it did; also i did timing service was over a year ago, but it looks like a head gasket issue, which up until now was just a slow seep of oil from the heads, and didn't expect this due to heads omg thanks

i noticed when i crank with the radiator cap off, the water pumps out backwards from the fill hole with the force of a mini fire hydrant; the water literally jumps out and splashes against the underside of the hood, and this is definitely not normal. previously, the car had sat for the entire spring and summer with oil drained without oil pan, and after i put it back together hastily for inspection, i noticed shiny metal particles in the oil when putting a flash light to it. when it overheated on a highway-speed drive, i figured that the long exposure caused corrosion to the rods, causing rod knock. at the moment it is faint taps, but it is not entirely clear if this is just early rod knock or not with this diagnosis i started shopping for a new engine and looked into fb20, fb25, etc.; anyway, before that happens, i see this is an unexpected symptom, and maybe it is an additional symptom to bad rods and overheating, or maybe bad rods diagnosis is incorrect; i did timing service last year, and some question the job i did, routing the timing belt the wrong way, but the water did not emerge backwards until this episode; maybe it is thermostat or something clogging the internal water pipes; anyway, appreciate your input omg thanks

That's the plan, and it looks like i will need the main dash harness since the tcu connectors look different (cf. ebay pictures); whatever i can pull the dash again My fourth gen legacy has a modified suspension--2004 outback struts with 2015 wrx lowering springs whose only purpose is to accommodate huge wheels while roughly keeping stock height; also have invidia pipes, so it is a lot to throw away if i were to junk it or a lot of work to get it out, so this is the predicament that motivates the project

so, in that case im still wondering about my rear differnetial; is gear ratio going to require a swap here as well; if anyone knows about this so, a rear differential swap is a possible compatibility issue; but fifth gen legacy has both a 5eat and cvt; and fourth gen legacies also have a 5eat, so the latter might accommodate the cvt as well if they bolt up the same way (this is a common logic in the forum for cross compatibility between model years and generations) the only other items would be the biu (immobilizer), instrument cluster, and key; the steering wheel has shifters, so if i require that i would have to look into, but hvac, seats, body, airbag, etc., bear no relevance to the swap unless i am mistaken. i've taken the dash out before in the junkyard on my model year; it is easy once you have done it, but it is not necessary to get to the cluster

so it's become clear that it's only possible to do a complete swap with automatics, in this case a complete fb20 drivetrain; actually from what has become clear already the automatic lgts would be hard to do any kind of swap that wouldn't also be a complete one since the ecu is tuned to a 5eat one question that remains is if the rear differential on the 2.5i fourth generation legacy is compatible with the fb20 and cvt; and, for that matter more generally what might be a compatibility issue between the rear differentials and 5eat vs 4eat vs manual. omg thanks

i noticed; but at least fb20 engine mounts look similar to the ej sohc mounts i meant the fb20, not fa20; i would swap over the fb20 ecu, tcu, and wiring as the complete drivetrain with minimal disassembly as complete and then drop-in; these aren't di, but if i did the same swap with fa20, i don't see why the di would be a problem, or would it do you know if my fourth-gen rear differential would be compatible? omg thanx

honestly it very easy to pull the drivetrain, but if the time i took to do beginning steps of my turbo is any indication, this being enough to corrode my exposed rods and stop me before i even start, don't hold your breath while i do this so i am basically going to swap the entire drivetrain, and, knowing this is the plan, i am now more interested in 2012-2014 imprezas the with fb20 motors, motivated mostly by similar chassis size; there is a chance i will require the crossmember from the impreza--hopefully not, but this is probably not an option with fifth gen legacy And on why i have come to this; so, FLlegacy says the sohc program cannot efficiently run the fb25 dohc motor:

thanks so much for this; literally answers everything. this is my thread in the fourth-gen section where ppl are slightly less clueless than i, but you are clearly way less clueless omg thanks

that is definitely true for the ej253 2.5i, but the fa/fb engines oil pans accommodate a bolt-on garrett turbo from 2015 wrx with a tactrix cable and romraider on linux or windows

thanks for your input! just a thought, but wouldn't elimintaing that sensor amount to not plugging it in; if the original sohc ecu and harness are retained, there wouldn't be a connector to plug it into, so the ecu would run as if sohc, so if it were to run, wouldnt the distinction sohc vs dohc be transparent to the ecu? after all the point of the sensor is to tell you when the sensor actually fails or the engine has blown, or no? omg thanks

i think id rather junk the car completely than put in the same motor from a junkyard; if i were to do so and to sell it right away, the net cash flow is equivalent to calling a junk truck to begin with, so there the fb25 option is still there, but like i said, i would keep the original harness, ecu, and valve covers. if i win my hastily bid copart auction for a 2013 in a couple days, it is happening. another option is to transfer the entire drivetrain with cvt into the fourth gen legacy together with the fb ecu, tcu, etc. does anyone know if this would work with my rear differential? omg thx

i'm open to this, but this is way more costly; if i go this route i would also replace the crossmember so i can have the option to turbo with the aftermarket exhausts. hoewver, i find the rear turbo location a bit cluttered as far as the fb25 option, i called a few shops and found i would have to retain the ej253 ecu together with the original harness; then, since it runs wires instead of coils, i would just have to plug in the wires with the plug boots in place of the coils on the FB25--- does anyone know if this would work, or am i a madman for even thinking this hmm it could work if i just re do the valve covers and slap on ones from the ej omg thanks help

My primary concern is putting the stock motor in first , but as for the possible turbo oil return and feed, i was just planning to use an oil filter sandwich plate at the oil filter to pump and return the oil; is this a bad idea or a bad product altogether otherwise? the 2008 ecu is on the canbus already; so you are saying the fb25 ecu would require the cvt tcu in order to work? this is one of the main questions i have here since i only know how to order parts and seeing if they would work afterwards

so i have an issue with a fourth gen naturally aspirated legacy but have a question that is pertinent to the fifth generation legacies i am wondering if the ej25 ecu from fifth gen for years 2010-2012 is compatible with the fb25 ecu for the years 2013-2014. granted it is going to run, i have the intention to run logs and tune it with the romraider software and a tactrix cable, but the primary question is if the earlier ecu can run the fb25 motour another question is how the different transmissions (cvt from 13-14 versus 4EAT from 10-12) will impact things background info: in model years 2010-2012 the (fifth generation legacy with ej25) moved to ignition coils from plug wires and distributor cap; so this is the first question, is the ecu from fourth gen still plug and play here even with the early fifth generation model years where the motor is still an EJ25 SOHC. In 2013-2014 model years it moved to twin cams and a timing chain and significant hardware internal hardware changes with the FB25 motor, but the harness seems mostly the same with the ej25 motor from earlier fifth gen legacy, but it is unclear if ecu would be blind to these changes. it seems the harness connections all connect inside the engine bay and into the original ecu the same way appreciate any input omg thanks