Carmania24

Same issue today.. car stalled while driving. Idk if the led brake lights or brake light switch or there’s a short somewhere but wtf.

Most of the time, that is the case. Some techs see it as a clue for something else that would be cause for a fail. I’m tired of all the smog hoops and ladders to pass so I said forget it. Pay the man.

 

Hopefully I am all good. I will stay pay DMV on time.

-bump- - @apexi -

 

I was checking for possible spots for where the oil can be leaking from and my first thought was checking out the oil cooler one since apparently that is common. The oil filter was dry with no fluid on it, I am not sure if that means the gasket is fine or it still could be faulty?

If the stored codes are even remotely related to emissions components, it’s still automatic fail I believe. Could be wrong though. I’ve been hotsmogging the last couple times.

 

Hmm well they have nothing to do with smog actually. Some other people said they passed because the tech said as long as the CEL is not actually on before/during smog, they will pass.

Dumb question--My car is due for renewal soon and I wanted to know if there are stored codes will this cause me to fail smog? My CEL is OFF and has been for 5-6 days. I am in CA.

 

Thank you.

There are just too many possibilities... I'm not really comfortable giving many suggestions, because they'd just be guesses.

 

p0700 + p1718 caused by bad stop lamp switch?

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/cel-p0700-and-p1718-solved.607049/

 

Another guy said LED taillights caused his p0700. It might sound crazy, but those just look like transmission network codes, so anything with the wiring could be funky. I remember in an older post a mechanic said you had some oil leaks, and obviously there are some in the pictures above. The bottom of your transmission pan looks pretty damp, I wonder if there's oil inside a plug/connector causing issues, or some other corrosion.

 

Is your transmission ground okay? give it a tug on both ends. The pictures in the link below are from my manual transmission. Your firewall connection should be the same, but I don't know where the other end goes to for AT. The Subaru parts diagram makes it look like the top of the transmission.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_52016_6023012/CORD-ANOTHER/B13-818-01.html

 

my mt

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5854064&postcount=12

 

For ocv's, I've heard cleaning does nothing, they have to be replaced. If you swap ocv's and the code stays on the same side, then I'm thinking it's the filter behind the timing belt cover and not the ocv's.

 

@apexi thank you for the info and feedback. I can not believe that LED's could be causing this or a bad brake light switch (my brake lights work as they should btw)...so stupid. The OCV issue is fixed, there is no CEL for it nor any stored codes. But I will remove the filters when I get a chance/when it stops raining for a bit.

BUMP- @apexi

 

Stored codes- P0700 & P1718, car runs and drives fine. I drive it slow though even on the freeways. Bought and already got a used TCM. Can anyone, please, chime in and give me some advice? I read that even a loose connection could be causing all this. Oh and if I am not mistaken, is the TCM located driver side firewall? Can anyone tell me what is the best method to get to it?

 

Thanks again all. Appreciate the help!!

Have you checked for possible intake leaks? If not get a can of starter fluid or something similar and spray all around the engine. If you hear it surging, you have a vacuum leak.

I would drain the oil to see if you find any metal fragments. I agree with Sean too, swap the OCV's, drive the car for a little bit and see if the code changes to P0021. Also, as TY said, remove those pesky filters, they do more harm than good. It reminds me I have to remove the turbo one as well as the one behind the timing cover.

Bumping own thread---P0700 and P1718 are now permanent...car has been driving fine. I have not reset the code, after further research it seems that it could be indeed be a faulty TCM or a short somewhere between the TCM and ECU or somewhere else. I purchased a TCM from eBay and hopefully it will be here soon. Will replace it next week and keep yall updated. This may be a stupid question but will the TCM require programming?

So update y'all. Got a mechanic to come look at it. Leak is not that bad but I think the seal inside where the oil filter goes is bad thus causing the leak. Oil is not low but not full either so going to add some oil in. After looking at everything he took off the positive terminal for 5-10 minutes put it back on and it went into drive. Pulled the code of P0700 though. So we are guessing the TCM will need to be replaced.

So I decided to check my oil after a lot of people recommended me to..and good thing I did. See pictures..oil change done about 2 weeks ago with 5W-40 and some people say that it may be too thick and the banjo filter(s) may be causing it to spew out oil.

 

Edit: sorry, do not know why my pictures always seem to upload weird.

FYI, it is possible to replace the throttle position sensor on its own. You can find them used on ebay. Otherwise you can buy a new throttle pedal assembly all together. You probably won’t find the throttle position sensor brand new for sale on its own.

 

Usually issues with your TPS will result in a check engine light for TPS voltage low.

 

Hmm and it is weird that I do not have a CEL...I will look into this, I found used assemblies for around $100. Thanks.

 

Please don't just throw parts at the car hoping it will fix it.

 

This is an ej20x swap, I think it's important to note that for those reading. It sounds like you've had p0021 and ocv issues on and off for some time now, you mentioned that earlier this month. The FSM says ocv issues can cause stalling. I think I remember you replacing your ocv's with aftermarket ones and still having issues. I don't want you to take my post the wrong way, I just don't want to see you throw your money away.. I'd look into your ocv's more, and the possible banjo filter behind the t-belt cover. In some other threads I think they say how to check the ocv numbers with something like freessm.

 

What do you recommend I use to clean up the OCV? I plan on cleaning the TB tomorrow so might as well clean up the OCV's. I will try my best to get that filter behind the cover out but I am not sure if my skills would be good enough for that.

Oh and I had the code (P0021) beginning of November but it went away by itself after 2 days, which I did find weird. Fingers crossed that cleaning up carbon/debris/dirt off the TB will help.

If the battery is leaking you should replace it anyway.

 

I think the TPS is integrated into the throttle body so you would have to replace the whole throttle body. I would log the related parameters before jumping to that though.

 

Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

 

I will order one after logging but for now I need my car to get back home for break and I will clean the TB tomorrow (if I am not mistaken it is underneath the TMIC?) The battery is under warranty but since it is "good" I have to buy a new one.

 

The good news atleast is that there is no TCU codes. I was able to borrow my friends laptop quickly to check and there were no codes that appeared. I used FreeSSM.

From reading your previous thread, I assume you got the compression issue dealt with?

 

The website for bluedriver says you can log short and long term fuel trims. You will want to log those at idle and when it stalls. If you log air fuel ratio also you could see what's going on there when you stall.

 

I haven't heard of cars stalling from a battery, but if you want to get it tested you could take it to a local auto parts store.

 

I used to have a kia with a bad tps which would stall all the time. You could also log the accelerator and throttle body opening angle at the time of the stall to see if something isn't working the way it should.

 

 

Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

 

Yes I got the compression dealt with, swapped head with a low mileage one.

 

They said my battery and alternator are good, but the battery is leaking quite a bit.

 

I see autopart stores selling the TPS separately, but did some research and saw you can't replace it on this car..? So confused by that.

An aftermarket intake can cause too lean of a condition but not to the point of stalling the car (in most cases) it usually causes problems in the upper ranges of rpm where the car is taking in a lot more air than usual. Do you know if the previous owner got the car tuned for the intake?

 

It depends on the software you are using for data logging but it should just be a parameter as AF learning and correction to log. I know if you have btssm its easy to pull up but im not sure what program you are using.

 

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I am the one who put the intake on, did not get it tuned yet however.

 

I am using BlueDriver. (https://www.bluedriver.com/)

 

This may be a dumb question..but could a bad battery be causing this?

Thanks!

Have you checked the Air/Fuel learning and correction? If you are leaning out or going way too rich it could cause a problem

 

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How do I do that? I mean I have a bluedriver connected with data logging. I do have a SPT intake, not sure if maybe that an aftermarket intake could be causing that?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-please-car-stalls-put-d-275855.html?highlight=please--car+stalls

 

This was my original thread (^^), however this time I have no CEL at all. I cleaned the MAF and replaced the air filter. No luck. Had this issue a year ago too. Sticky throttle body? Sticky TPS?

 

Someone please help me, I am a poor college student with barely any money.

Here's what I made up. Anything like those would be fine.

 

[ATTACH]280941[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]280942[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]280943[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks!

 

I actually purchased these. They are an oem GM part. They were only $4 when I bought them.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4KR3MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2EY0DbQ8QYMM4

 

Thank you, I bought it from Subaru!

 

There's a big thread about purchasing and or making these. 14 gauge or bigger seems the consensus. I bought stranded wire by the foot from ace. However the ring terminals and heat shrink I bought were too small.

 

Did you get metric sized ring terminals maxcapacity? My ace only had sae and I misjudged despite a bunch of time estimating.

 

And poor grounds can cause electrical issues but I doubt one small one like that would cause a huge issue. On a side note, I know everyone says to ground to bare metal but I'm always terrified of my frame rail rusting....

 

 

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I bought the OEM one from Subaru, and I see..but this is closest one to the A/C so I feel like it could help a little.

They're cheap direct from subaru:

 

Passenger side ground strap: 81831AG010 - $5.91

Driver side ground strap: 81831AG000 - $6.07

Transmission to bulkhead ground strap: 81804FC101 - $3.03

 

Thanks a bunch! Random question though, could this cause weird issues with the car?

Hi all,

 

I was wondering if any knows where I can get ground straps? Also, what type of gauge is it (if that matters)?

 

I think my passenger side one that is under the car ripped and I just want to replace it. I have not gone under the car yet but just wanted a little more info before I do.

 

Thanks!

my transmission will not shift in regular drive you have to put it in sport mode

and then it will shift regular and you can up shift it and you cant down shift it

it will down shift by it's self

 

Hmm, I have not experienced anything like this. Could very well be a wiring issue or it could be the TCU.

 

First step I would highly recommend is following these steps: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-tcu-reset-w-freessm-202482.html

 

Next step, I would say check the wiring, ground cables, and transmission fluid.

 

If none of those seem to help or work, you would have to take it to a shop and ask them to run a diagnostic test on the TCU for any codes. If it seems to be shifting fine without jerking or bang shifting then it does not seem to be an issue with the transmission IMO.

Weird...I put LED's front and back with the relay and I had no issue. Did you check to make sure it was properly secured into place? Maybe try re-installing it or could be a faulty relay. I trust diode dynamics a lot more than iJDMtoy.

did anyone have any trouble with a 5 sp automatic

I found one on Ebay JDM one but it will not work it has different wiring

to it so can anyone help me with it

 

What is going on with your transmission? I have a 5EAT as well.

Don't you have an EJ20X swapped car? or did you replace that engine?

 

That is correct. It was not a complete engine swap.

 

Also--the CEL turned off by itself today as I was driving home. I did not reset it or touch the OCV or do an oil change (that is planned for tomorrow).