Carmania24

I'm saying it's hard to judge by a video. It certainly sounds like it's knocking, but can't be sure from a recording.

Ah okay. So no matter what angle, it is hard to tell unless I take it to a mechanic.

It may or may not trigger a CEL, depending on additional symptoms.

 

Shouldn't need a replacement ECU. How was your JDM swap set up? Did the shop source a JDM ECU and wire the exhaust AVCS, or are the exhaust gears static and you're still running the USDM ECU?

 

Do you have a known good turbo you can get on the car? If you did spin a bearing, the one that's on the car is contaminated (assuming it wasn't the cause of the spun bearing in the first place). If the turbo isn't wrecked, one of the other owners of my shop space has had good success pressure flushing the bearing journal after a bearing failure, so it can be re-used if cleaned thoroughly.

Thanks for the comment. Ah I see.

I am running the USDM ECU.

Turbo seems to be fine. I never had an issue with it since I had the turbo. I could get a rebuilt one off hill country for $450 worst case scenario.

Not sure what I want to do. The shop still wants me to bring it in to ensure it is a rod knock (to me and others it most definitely sounds like one). Makes sense now, random loss of power, hesitation, jittery turbo gauge (that started happening the same day I got the tune).

I've taken a video under the hood for someone before and between the fact that my RA block has been a little noisy since day one, and the racket the big injectors were making, it sounded way rougher than it does in person.

Thanks for the response..ah I see. But either way sounds like my motor is done?

You paying someone else to do the work? Do you have space where you could do it yourself? It's a 900 dollar motor, but I can see where you'd get deeper into it paying someone else to get it in the car for you.

 

That said, if all the necessary tweaks to make the JDM motor in the USDM car have been made, it literally takes half a day to swap a complete long block.

Thanks for the comment. When it first happened I did pay someone to do the work.

Sadly I do not have anywhere to do the work myself. I could try to do it at my buddies place but not sure if I could do it there. I would have to talk to him first...I was ready to get some power out of it. I should buy a new ECU too? Since it was a pro-tune.

Also, yes $900 is way better than $5K but not sure when I would have the time to do it with my upcoming very hectic summer schedule.

I guess an extra $200 for a motor is not bad. I just hope I can cancel my turbo order.

Also, would a knock/spun bearing cause a CEL to come on?

You're already set up for EJ20X - this is much less catastrophic for you because of it. 900 bucks is way better than 5k for an EJ257 build. Breeeeeaaaathe

But howwww? I spent so much money just under 22 months ago. May seem like a long time ago but for me it is not. I seriously can't stand this sh*t anymore.

Yeah, that second one really has the sound. But it does sound a bit light to me, I would think the knock would be a bit more heavier ?

 

THis would be a good thing for "m sprank" to hear. PM him.

 

May be time to start a new thread in the Engine rebuild forum.

I will message him the links, thanks.

Mic can play tricks too. I assume it sounds as bad in person?

Thanks for the response, honestly I can't really tell if it sounds as bad. When I am in the car door open, doing small revs it does not sound that bad.

Not sure if y'all heard the pop in one of the videos? But save to assume it does not sound like a good motor anymore.

Update y'all...sounds like rod knock. I will be jumping off a cliff now.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cOd-4qKYd4TdQOZFWh3lWCsCAiWqLxa8

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kLBkcjWGMiSV9U8lwn4IJKopAgPL5hqk

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bit-pickle-need-help-282288.html?t=282288

 

What was the outcome?

Still trying to get that figured out. The shop that did my tune has very limited staff and hours and now their mechanic is not working at all either. But according to others on that thread, seems like it’s the turbo, catalytic converter, injectors, or fuel pump. The shop also mentioned that when I talked to them. But once they are fully operational I will be taking it back to them. In the mean time I’m trying to find a shop around me that specializes in Subaru’s.

Coolant and oil levels are good, and they don’t appear to be mixed together which is a good sign. I think if it’s none of those, it’s most likely the tune.

Yes DW 740’s would be a good choice. If you do opt for larger injectors the fuel pump is a good idea to ensure it can keep up. I’m running the DW 65c pump in my Legacy, have been happy with it. Max is running the AEM320, no experience with it but sounds like it’s another viable option. It’s not required by any means and certainly adds to the cost but you could switch to top feeds at this point if your going to get new injectors. If you do that, you’ll need new fuel rails to accommodate this. Subaru switched to top feed after ‘07 as they found it to be a better set up and they are easier to tune than sidefeeds. I made the switch when I swapped to a larger turbo to support it and opted for OEM fuel rails that my tuner had after someone swapped out for IAG’s swanky parallel fueling billet units. That said, I ran sidefeeds for many moons even though my tuner liked to bitch about it

Thanks for the detailed response! I will look into *maybe* getting top feed injectors as well.

^^ If you go the topfeed route and stick with OEM rails to keep cost down, make sure you get 07+ Legacy or 08-14/08+ WRX/STI fuel rails.

 

If not, you might end up with some nasty fuel pressure fluctuations. I did: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/not-do-topfeed-conversion-280897.html?t=280897

Thank you for the response! I will look into this.

I wish you luck getting your money back from the scammer. How did your turbo fail? Did it send bearing material through the engine? I don't want you spend good money on a bad engine subsequently ruining another turbo.

 

In your signature, I hope you mean it has EJ20X long block with EJ255 Intake and Exhaust manifolds. If it has EJ255 cylinder heads on a EJ20X short block, your engine combustion would look like a penis and would be no good for performance.

Thanks for the response. And thanks, I hope I can get it back too. I’m not sure it’s bad, but I wanted to always upgrade it anyways, and I finally have enough time and money saved up to do it. I might be able to salvage the old turbo and sell it cheap to get some money back.

LOL, Yes sorry that is what I meant. I will fix my signature.

Asking questions from those that have been there in lieu of throwing parts and money at it is a great approach. Good luck with the upgrades.

 

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Thank you! Will post updates on my progress.

Since the price difference is probably negligible, I'd go with 740's so you have some head room. This is what I ran Deatschwerks 740's on my VF52 for many years with no issues.

Thank you. So I should go for 740CC by Deatschwerks? And should I upgrade my fuel pump while I am at it?

2005's & 2006's need a catless up pipe and a catted down pipe to wake the car up safely.

Cobb AP V3 and a custom tune for stock fueling.

 

I'm still on stock fueling almost 11 years on the vf52. Yes, I have upgraded the fuel a couple years back. but no change to the MAP for that.

 

If you go with bigger injectors, go at least with 750's IMO. With a AEM320 pump.

 

I have the AEM 320 in the wagon, but still on the stock injectors.

 

The formula is easy.

 

Catless up pipe

catted down pipe

new oil return hose

remove the banjo filter on the passenger side head

Cobb AP V3

gaskets

Grimmspeed 2X thick 3" gasket

2 each, 10mm bolts 2" long, nuts and lock washers (DP to mid pipe)

red RTV to coat the gasket.

anti-seize compound

Thank you! I do have a catless up pipe already. Everything else does not seem very hard to get. The only thing is since I have the EJ20X bottom end I am not sure if Cobb would work very well with my car. I reached out to AntSpec to see what they think--if dyno or cobb AP would be better.

Y'all are awesome. Much thanks for the constant help and support!

Haven't hear anything bad about Hill Country, I've seen a number of guys on here run their turbos, everyone seems to be happy. Nice call on the billet upgrade, its worth the extra $100 and you'll gain some spool benefit and durability as well. Didn't know they offered upsized wheel swap out as an option, thats kinda nice, (with your goals, good call just sticking with the VF52 wheel).

Thanks for the reply. I pulled the trigger just now!! So excited.

do give us a review when installed and running

Thanks for the response. I will most certainly give it a review, it should be in my hands in 4-5 weeks.

Also, just confirm for the power goals I want, I do not need to upgrade anything else (I will probably get a downpipe)? Such as fuel, etc.

Edit: If I DO need to upgrade, would 650CC injectors plus a walbro 255 fuel pump be enough to safely handle 18-19PSI? Car is currently at 15PSI..when working that is.

http://hillcountryforcedinductions.com/rhf55-ihi-vf52/

I am going to be getting this in red on Friday and I am also doing the billet upgrade...thoughts/opinion anyone?

Thanks.

Fuuuuuuuuu.... good luck man

Fingers crossed. I am beyond pissed

hope you used paypal and have buyer protection

I did contact them already as well as my bank. I am so angry and sad.

Didn't realize you had a JDM motor. Really interested to see how the VF52 does on a high compression motor

Me too..too bad it won't happen anytime soon. Just saw someone in the group where I made an ISO post and they posted the profile of the same person who sold me the turbo...called the seller a scammer and said they stopped responding to messages and never sent the item. I never heard from the person either after I sent payment. They're ignoring my messages now too. What great luck I am having.

I'd try to make a signature which says you're using an ej20x motor, and anything which may not be typically found on a USDM legacy. It just seems a little misleading to say a USDM legacy when you're using a JDM motor, and possibly other jdm parts.

Thanks for the response I will update it.

I found someone who is selling a VF52 and has less than 8k miles on the turbo no shaft play, looks brand new. I bought it.

yea that ebay turbo looks like it was rebuilt with cheap internals, which is the most important part of the turbo, the moving parts! Cartridges aren't that cheap unless they are some cheap chinese knock offs. Not saying it won't work, but how long will it last? If the turbo blows it has a high chance of taking your motor with it which is why no one on this forum advocates cheap turbos. You will quickly find yourself in the #ynansb crew

Thanks for the comment. Good thing I asked! Would something like this be a good option too? http://hillcountryforcedinductions.com/rhf55-ihi-vf52/

True, the heatshield will need a little cutting. Nothing a hack saw blade can't do. Or a cut off tool if you have one.

Thanks for the comment. IMO I would like a heat shield too for the new turbo, but will decide when the time comes.

+1 for jmp, he knows his stuff.

 

I believe all of the VF turbos he rebuilds have modified internals to eliminate the oiling issues with our cars. If you get his custom billet wheel you can expect results similar to 16G or vf52 with a quicker spool than stock. I accidentally sent him cheap Chinese rebuilt vf40 and he was still able to work his magic.

 

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Vf52 should be a direct replacement, I think the only thing that doesn't fit directly is the heatsheild but it is not really necessary

 

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Thank you for your comments. I will reach out to him.

i would consult with jmp, hes pretty knowledgeable. He changes the center cartridge, his rebuilds are good, no one complains. Short of the housings being cracked I don't see why it can't be rebuilt. Where did you find this rebuilt turbo for 400 dollars?? normally a good quality one is around 700. I would question a rebuilt turbo for 400 dollars, the cartridge itself costs 300-400.

Thanks for the response. I have heard great things about him no doubt about that. I will message him and see if he has any laying around. This one I found off eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IHI-RHF55-VF52-WRX-LEGACY-14411AA800-NIB-Genuine-IHI-Turbo-charger/282818409266

Seller ratings are good. Uses Genuine housing. Thought I would ask before I jump the gun.

Would suggest talking with John (JMP) as well. He also will buy VF series turbos and offer core credit from time to time as he needs them for rebuilders. Could possibly rebuild yours as well

Thanks for the response. I will reach out to him and see if he has any laying around and if so how much he would want.

I just want to confirm that the VF52 will work with my current manifold, up-pipe, and downpipe?

Thanks everyone!

you may even be able to get your current turbo rebuilt by jmp for cheaper than buying a new one.

Thanks for the response. To be honest, not really sure if it’s worth rebuilding. Actually, not even sure if it can be rebuilt.

I found a rebuilt VF52 with 1 year warranty for $400. I did want to get a little more power out of it eventually so if I do have to replace the turbo I’d rather do it now than later on.

With the power goals I assume your looking to reach with a VF38, I’d suggest a VF52 as well, plug and play with your platform and works with your OEM fueling set up. The power can be optimized down the line if you want to add injectors and a pump but it’s not needed to run the turbo efficiently. If you want yet another bump in power with nearly identical spool and more power up top, I’d also suggest a 16G, (you will need injectors and a pump). I’d also suggest contacting JMP, I’m running his 11 blade VF52 in my daily and his customized 16G in my track car. Very happy with both.

Thank you for the response. The car is pushing about 15PSI right now which I am happy with, except the fact my turbo may be dead now, but anywho if the VF52 is a plug and play with a re-flash I will probably go that route. Any suggestions on where I should get one--the VF52?

To help you feel better, I have been on the vf52 for over 150,000 miles on stock fueling, until a couple years back when just because I upgraded to a AEM 320 pump, had a fuel leak at the tank and figured while the tanks apart, might as well.

 

Car was dynoed at 21psi on stock injectors and pump that was back in Aug 2011.

Thanks for the response. Awesome! I am the person that prefers to go with more reliability by compromising HP. I was very satisfied where my car was and the pickup before this whole thing happened.

If you use a different turbo you will need a tune, only way to avoid a tune is getting another vf40 or whatever you have now. Different turbo = tune!

Thank you for the comment. I will most likely get the car retuned after replacing the turbo no matter which one I go with just to play it safe. I do not mind spending a little extra to make it run better.

FWIW, both my cars seem to begin to spool about 2400-2600rpm, the vf52 and the vf46 on the Spec.

 

IMO stay with what we all know works well with these cars.

 

What year Legacy GT is your's again ? You should add it to your info like most of us we its easy to see with every post. Notice you can see that info by just looking to the left.

Under, "cars".

Thanks for your comment. So in your opinion, should I go with a VF52 instead? I forget if those are a direct replacement? If I do this should I upgrade my injectors and fuel pump as well?

Gotcha, I will add that in. Mine is a 2005.

Good price. Not sure about reliability versus other JDM turbos. Only datapoint I have is the 60k VF38 we have sitting in the shop that came off of a JDM motor, which has way more shaft play than I'd expect given the mileage. That said, no idea what it's history is beyond the quoted miles so could be a fluke.

Thanks for the comment, only reason I ask is because I have seen a few posts where people have had more issues with the VF38 than the Vf44. But then again, every turbo is different.

FWIW, most of us recommend you have any used turbo checked by someone we trust, member JMP6889928 is who we trust.

 

The idea is to spend the right amount money up front to insure you don't spend a lot more later or in the near future...

 

It is a good thing your asking questions before you spend your money.

Thanks for the comment, I will look more into which one to get. And yes I just want to get my car checked first and if it does end up being the turbo I want to upgrade it. I do need the money just incase it ends up costing a good amount to get the car fixed.

Thank you all!

That's a pretty good price on the VF38. Last I remember they spool by 3k on an EJ25. For me, the Evo III 16G spools consistently by 3.3k, and ought to have more room up top than the VF38.

 

That said, if you can get the DP cheap you might actually save a few bucks, assuming the VF38 is in good shape.

 

Guess it's a question of your end goal at the end of the day.

Thanks for the comment. Is it true that the Vf38's are unreliable compared to a VF44? Also, I found this: https://www.mvpmotorsports.com/avo-turboworld/avo-turboworld-downpipe/s1303g3la001t/i-2448208.aspx

The only thing is I am not sure if the mounts/bends are the same as a 5EAT downpipe.