Carmania24
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Posts posted by Carmania24
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Bump, still adding parts. Added stock rear axles. I listed the down pipe on Facebook market place, I will be adding the rest of the parts to that post.
Is it an OEM downpipe? Could you send me the listing for the DP that you have on the FB marketplace please?
Thanks!
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did you call any of these shops?
https://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/southern-california-24.html
Holy moly! Thank you for that! More than half those places do not even exist anymore, but found some places that still are and close to me. Going to give them a call.
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Makes two of us. Well 3 if you could rwebb.
yer car, yer money.
a forged ej257 isn't going to prevent the bearing issue. More power doesn't come from forged engine parts just more warmup and lots more money. A factory RA short block is ~1800 from flatironstuning. More than enough for 400hp. DD'able 400hp in a legacy doesn't come cheaply.
If a $500 tow bill is a limiting factor, perhaps a shop closer to you is worth the money as they can build it and install it. In which case, they will warranty all work. Bringing a shortblock in means, oops you pay more money if something happens.
injector & turbo questions are usually best answered by the folks who are going to tune it. Which you'll need, which is probably a third shop unless doing online tuning.
Welp poop. I gave a deposit to the guy this morning to buy the parts. I mean honestly I will be happy pushing 300ishwhp with VF52 setup. Which I bought.. seller is ignoring me now. But anyways, I appreciate yours as well as everyone else's opinion.
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Outfront Motorsports? https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/
8071 Commonwealth Ave Buena Park, CA 90621
I have no experience with them, but I remember msprank mentioning them in another post a few years back
https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5817964&postcount=16
Thanks. I reached out to them but they do not install sadly.
outfront is a good shop especially if you want a high hp build. They have done 1000hp time attack builds. Not going to be backwoods pricing tho.I'd have them do the whole thing. You'll get a kickass car
Thanks. Pricing starts at around 6K (OEM build) if I remember. Does not include installation which is about 800-1200 extra at shops.
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I heard that apparently stage 2 tune from COBB OTS works just fine.. but COBB OTS maps are junk. You would need to find a tuner near you or in countries where the X/Y were offered.
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No such thing as free.. is there!?
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why does the ej20 need a rebuild?
I’m confuzzled. I have an ej20x in my car right now. Bearing took a dump so it has knocking. I am going forged ej255.
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What happened to <3 Dawn's shop? Can't they do installs?
I do not mind them replacing it, but they are about 120 miles from me and tow on average is $3 a mile (some even $7 a mile). It ends up being cheaper if I have him drop the motor off (after being built) to a shop closer to me.
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tbh, we're all for pics of Dawn, at the point.
However, I'm also confused about your question. Your Dawn teaser isn't readable so no idea what parts you have and are buying. The ej20 costs too much doesn't make sense, as it had to be cheaper than an ej255 at some point. Especially if you got tuned for the ej20.
If Dawn's shop is only building the shortblock, who is doing the rest of the work? And why not Dawn's shop for that too?
I have no problem with the ej20x block being rebuilt but I want to go back to ej255. Finding rebuild parts for ej20x is hard here, most come from overseas which is kind of iffy right now.
I do not mind them replacing it, but they are about 120 miles from me and tow on average is $3 a mile (some even $7 a mile). It ends up being cheaper if I have him drop the motor off (after being built) to the shop closer to me.
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Now make with the Dawn pics...
Wut
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Hi again,
Before you ask, yes I looked on Yelp and asked some groups on Facebook. But I am looking for a Subaru Shop in Orange County, CA to replace my motor. Maybe someone here can recommend a place I missed? Straight drop in motor, all accessories are on it. I have reached out to a few last week but I have not gotten a response as of yet. The closer to OC the better!
Thanks a lot!
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Welp so much for that. I can't afford the upgrade. Thanks everyone for your help and input.
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^ I second that. Timing belt and components will need to be replaced by the sounds of it. Is it misfiring? Does it smell like burnt eggs? Is there smoke coming from the exhaust?
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Yer builder needs to fess up. Enquiring minds want to know about Dawn
Oh boy.. he ain't gonna tell me.
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In your picture of parts you have an avatar that says I <3 Dawn. I want to know who Dawn is before I comment on your parts. Whats her involvement in this?
OH LOL, that was a screenshot my builder sent me. No idea who that is.
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a post from rwebb means yer about to be sammich'ed
Well isn't that going to be lovely...
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Who is Dawn? Make with the pics
Ummm...what? I am lost.
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You can get to 325 on stock side feed injectors but 350 might be out of your reach.
If you're going to switch back over to an EJ255 might as well do the whole top feed conversion and run 1050x's while you have the chance. It's overkill for your power goals but if there's a best time to do it, it would be now.
Thanks, I will go ahead and do that. Should I do a TGV delete while I am at it?
Injector Dynamic, (or Cobb, they are just rebranded), 1050‘S would be a good call. As mentioned more than you need for your power goals but similarly priced to smaller ones and you won’t be giving anything up. I’d go top feed at this point, if you can find OEM top feed fuel rails, it will help your budget, you don’t have to run aftermarket ones at your power levelThanks, I will look into this. Did they make OEM top fed fuel rails for the legacy's? I could've sworn they did not, but I am probably wrong.
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so just forged pistons? Because case halves are 600 new.
Curious about the economic viability of a shop that builds & installs a forged engine for $4000, which is half what everyone else charges.
parts list?
re: your original question. top feed 1000cc is the new usual minimum.
what's your power goals? e85? fmic?
2 man shop, middle of nowhere, no overhead. He sent me pictures of previous builds and info about their shop. Made sure it was legit before agreeing to get it done.
For list of parts, please see the attached picture.
Gotcha, I will look into that. Any specific brand you recommend?
Power goals: 325-340WHP for now, next year get more power when it becomes my weekend car. TMIC for now.
Edit: failed to mention I have an EJ20X long block, and I wish to go back to EJ255 for this build. Most parts I found for EJ20X rebuild are overseas sadly.
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why would you buy a used ej255, then replace everything with forged? you can buy a forged shortblock ready to go 1800-2000$
If it was that cheap I would have bought one, all forged ones I have seen are nearly double that. Getting mine built and installed for 4K.
My motor needs a lot of work; had a shop look into for me. Was cheaper to buy a core than rebuild mine. If mine was rebuildable, I would have had him build off mine.
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Did take it to a different shop. That's where they found the other issues which were a deal killer for putting money into it.
If I had the room to part it out and safely store the parts, I would have had it torn down by now. Maybe someone is looking for a donor vehicle.....
Working on preparing a post for the classified section of this forum. Stay tuned.
What made it a deal killer for you to fix it?
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Hello there again!
Hope everyone's weekend is going well !
Just wanted to ask a question. I have a used EJ255 (I have an ej20x currently) motor I bought and I am going for a forged bottom end. So I am looking to either get a MHI TD05 that has been rebuilt with a billet compressor or a Tomioka Racing TD05-20G ball bearing w/ billet wheel.
I was just curious to know what injectors everyone is running for either turbo; or if 800 CC would be enough (or more than enough) for either of them? I will be running the DW 255 fuel pump.
Thanks in advance!
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Your welcome. I did learn that from being on this forum for so long. So it's not like I figured it out by myself.
My brain is fried from all this online college crap. Thank heavens I graduate next semester.
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You can leave the guide plates in for the belt. They are there for rapid rpm changes so the belt doesn't pop off the pulleys.
Think of high rpm and then push in the clutch to coast. rpm's drop quickly. A 5eat can't do that.
Ooo okay. I get what you are saying now. Thanks a lot!
4eat vs 5eat
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
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Hi all,
So a friend of mine might be selling a built 4EAT that can handle (I believe) 600hp. I currently have the 5EAT and was wondering if anyone has done this swap and what is needed to swap it out? I might be interested in buying it but not till next year.
Would I need a new transmission speed sensor, TCM, harness?
Thank you!