derache123

In that case, why not shoot JmP6889928 a PM? He does great rebuilds, I'm currently running one of his VF40s.

Okay cool - could I get a shipped price to 95831 for the scoop and the black plastic part attached to it? Or let me know the weight and dimensions and I'll look it up.

If Lonely Driver doesn't take these, I am also interested

Interesting to see that California is not the only place with a lower towing speed limit. Limit is 55 mph for towing here in California, makes for some rather unpleasant traffic patterns on the 70 mph freeways with lots of truck traffic...

Agreed - there shouldn't be a need for any sort of time based rule if the car can pass some sort of standardized safety and maybe emissions inspection upon import. I believe this is what they do in the UK and it seems to work fine.

Any pics of gauge pod?

Interested in the scoop individually, will it come with the black plastic portion underneath (not sure what it's called)? Shipping estimate to 95831?

I sent you a few PMs about this a while back, not sure if you've seen them?

I've decided to hold off on this for the time being but will shoot you a PM when I decide to go through with it.

I have the stock VF40 from my 06 if you're interested? ~130k miles, has not been rebuilt but was in working condition when removed.

They are actually slightly different in shape, a bit smaller than the USDM facelift headlights. They're necessary if you want to do a JDM/EDM front end swap, due to the slightly different shape.

Have the shields been flipped for proper LHD beam pattern?

I've read on here that, like the UP cat, the UP EGT sensor also has the potential to break up and ruin your turbo. I removed mine for that reason and did the resistor mod to get rid of CELs.

Yep I've seen those threads - I used a thinned out washer when installing the new NSS, just to be safe.

Yes exactly, it's all working now. The 05 ECU still bugs me a bit though... at some point I think I'm gonna put an 06 ECU back in and do the arduino thing that Infosecdad posted somewhere, and then put the 06 NSS back in.

Yeah I think you're right, the one in my old 2.5i broke the same way as well. Car is currently at the shop but will take a pic when I get it back on Monday.

Apparently the first owner of my 06 put an 05 ECU in it. If anyone has an ECU from an 06 5mt, please let me know.

If anyone cares (probably not) - interesting resolution to this question came up today. Ever since I installed the AP, my cruise control has not been working (it was already half broken before I installed the AP) - I suspected it was the neutral safety switch, so I replaced it, but the new switch wasn't working properly either, so I dropped the car off at the shop for them to diagnose. Turns out my car indeed does have an 05 ECU, and the neutral safety switch for 05s are slightly different (reversed polarity) than 06s. I'm thinking the first owner replaced the ECU with one from an 05 and messed with the ECU software a bit to make it work with the 06 neutral safety switch. When I installed the AP, whatever stuff he did to the ECU to make the 06 switch work was overwritten, explaining why the old 06 switch stopped working after the AP install, and the new one didn't work either.

Dang, that went fast...

I saw on some impreza forums that something like this could also be caused by gear oil that's too light? I haven't changed it recently though so I don't see how that would cause it. Hopefully it just needs to be properly bled again.

I'm looking for the black plastic latch that opens the trunk floor for sedans (05-09). The dumbasses at Costco Tire broke mine and it doesn't seem possible to buy a new one without buying the entire trunk floor too.

Hey all, I recently got my clutch master cylinder hose replaced since it was leaking. I've had my car back for a couple days now and I've noticed that if I cold start the car in neutral, it will refuse to go into any gear, and I have to shut it off to get it into gear. When the car is off, I am able to easily shift into any gear, as before. Once it's in gear and started up, it's also difficult to switch into other gears. The clutch pedal also seems to stick at around the top of the engagement point and I sometimes need to nudge it with my foot to have it release fully. The pedal travel before the engagement point has also become very soft and the engagement point now feels very noticeable, whereas before the pedal travel felt pretty linear throughout. Both problems seem to go away once the car is fully warmed up. Any idea what is going on? Perhaps the shop didn't bleed the system properly? Or maybe I have a bad throwout bearing? Really hope not... Thanks

Pictures of steering wheel?

Craigslist and FB marketplace are good places to look for used APs. You can search outside of your local area as well since people are often willing to ship.

Wait, I'm a little confused. Do you have a 5MT with the 6MT's reverse lockout? Or is that a 6MT with a 5MT knob?