Max Capacity

Well, may be just buy them beer and pizza.

It can't be very hard, my 16 y/o did mine in a few minutes back in the summer of 04. I didn't even know he was doing it.

I think back around page 75 or so, I said I have a 9/16" gap. I have thick washers. I put a sound bit in somewhere too. I'm not an Engineer, I'm a Assembly Technician that tells the Engineers they got it wrong before I assemble something they tell me to. And, yes I used to built rockets for satellites. I now build Oxygen Generators for the Space Station and Navy Sub's. The wider the gap the better.

Great job, make sure you do videos of anything else you do.

^^ what he said, sure is worth it though.

I have about a 9/16 gap. I'm thinking about making some steel straps to separate the muffler from the pipe. By raising the muffler inlet above the pipe exit. Actually, bypassing the muffler(s). Anyone else thought about that ? It's getting colder now so I'll wait until spring time to play with it more.

That's because the OEM bolts are metric.

Those flanges have been there how many years? There still about 3/8" thick. How many years or decades do you think it will take for rust to eat them away? Get over it. My rear wheel wells on my 86' Ford F150 have been rusting away for 10 plus years, and it's still fine.

Fredbeans.com like I think I said a page or so ago. Yep, here it is, http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servle...gacy-GT/Detail

^ Thanks, I stopped by my local machine shop. The guy's were impressed with the way the car sounded.

Has anybody had any problems driving the car like this in the Winter, snow and salt on the roads ? Can you see any problems ? I have about a 5/8" gap. Do most of my driving during the Winter.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-1006/NGK-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail Is that the same plug as above ? Just ordered a set, under $40.00 shipped.

Here's mine. Two thick washers on all 4 bolts, for a 1/4" gap. I may add a 3rd washer this weekend. DSCN3575.flv video by 92Si - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid185.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN3575.flv@@AMEPARAM@@vid185@@AMEPARAM@@185@@AMEPARAM@@x40/92Si/DSCN3575

I have noticed the same affect. Dash is saying 20.1 mpg for the past 60 miles. Damn it sounds to good. mendozer, do both sides. Balance of the exhaust signal. May be it doesn't matter with a Y pipe, but balance is key in a lot of things.

Did this this morning. A little WD40 or PB Blaster, I used my big a** impact gun, 14mm socket and 14mm box end wrench. I did run the bolts out a bit and then spray them again and run them in/out. Sounds nice. I used two fat washers for spacing. Put anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts when I put it back together. Should have done this 75 pages ago

So, we're talking about removing the 2 bolts (each) where the mufflers meet the Y pipe ? Or the 2 bolts behind the last Cat ?

Here's my thread from last Sept. check post #26 for photo's. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94193

Mine squeel's I guess most of the time. Been doing it for a long time. Clutch still grabs fine.

Almost 99,000 miles. I still use the cheapest 5W30 oil I can find that meets the SAE spec. Well ok, I did pay $12.00 for a 5qt bottle of Pennzoil Highmilage the other day. There was something for $10.99 but I said, what heck, I'll buy the good stuff this time. Walmart has the best prices. I'm thinking about using there oil soon.

Yep, it pay's the have a great tool box, and be good at problem solving. I'll post another trick about oil filters i figured out last night. Couldn't get the filter loose on a car. not mine, that some oil change place put on. My son tried with a strap wrench and the filter began to crush. I tried the metal wrench and couldn't get it to go small enough. I have a number of wrenches, nothing seemed to work. I knew I had to make the filter bigger or wrench smaller. I found a spare silicone Vibrant coupler on the shelf. I slipped it over the filter, put the wrench on and thought the wrench slipped it was so easy. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN0236.jpg

The manual say's 105,000 miles, replace the timing belt. May be they are thinking km.

I have Cobb AP stage 1 since about 7,000 miles. It does not effect the OEM timing belt wait until 105,000 or some where close.

If you have decent tools and a way to lock the drivers side cams it's fairly straight forward now that I have done it. The radiator and fans come out as a unit. The alternator and compressor belts are a piece of cake. The covers come off very easily the old tensioners are easy to remove. Water pump is easy but the hoses took a little planning, I slide the front clamp back got the hose to move, then removed the pump and held it out so I could remove the back hose. The installed the new one in reverse order.

69mph in cruise control, I have a spec 2+ with the LWFW and spend most of my time in cruise around that speed, I have no noise and vibrations at all. 25,000 miles on set up. A little chatter in traffic at times, but it's mainly because I have to feather the clutch. The noise at low rpm's in 4th gear and the like so because ofthe LWFW, it doesn't have enough mass to carry the car...Just down shift and be done with it. Nobody said there wasn't trade off. I would much rather have a stout clutch, over that weak thing Subaru calls a clutch.

I ended up not getting the Haynes book, the service manual is much better, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ The two other belts were $21.00 at Advance. Everything came apart very easily I did spray the exterior bolts and nut's with WD40. But the engine stays so clean compared the the cars from the 70's. I also put anti-sieze on the external bolts before re-installing them. I would say $1,000. for this job for a stealership is a bit outrageous being as to they are "factory trained" they should have no problem doing this hole job in less then 4 hours. Find a local ASE shop and get a quote from them. I do get a good discount on the parts from Advance but still.