creep_nu

TSX wagons if you wanna stay with an Acura and a wagon.

 

yeah, i've been keeping an eye on those, it's exactly what i want but those things have really kept their value...kinda crazy

 

leaning towards a 3 series wagon, possible a volvo v50, would kill for a jetta tdi sportwagen, but...we'll see what happens. waiting on insurance for...reasons...and seeing other money i have.

god those wagons look good, love it

yep, i made it through with no injuries. airbags and seatbelts did their thing and really helped me out. it was low speed(city street, was doing 25...), so that especially helps. car did what it needed to do though, front end buckled and crumpled, no cabin intrusion, and i walked away with, literally, 2 scratches.

well. RIP to my Acura. Wednesday night someone ran a stop sign and we t-boned, she's totaled, and leaves a very big hole in my heart. so...if insurance and everything gets figured out i'll be on the hunt for a new daily. thinking maybe volvo? want to get back in a wagon.

yeah, if they haven't started work on the car take it back and go to subaru, they'll get ya straight

good to hear back from ya s2, hell of a stable you've got there

yeah it's not great, but certainly nowhere as bad as a new pickup's stock lights after the truck has been lifted 3 inches.

still worth a shot talking to them...that's a much bigger issue than just a popped fuse, and if it was represented as such they still might work with you...doesn't hurt to ask.

ordered some new rotors and pads. after 5 years and 50k miles im getting some significant shimmy under braking...pads still shockingly have a good amount of life left, didn't realize i did so much highway driving. contemplating getting SS lines and ordering a master cylinder brace while i'm at it, and will be doing brake fluid too, been 2 years, so...

my thoughts? change your oil.

 

is your level low? are you using the correct viscosity? if an oil change temporarily fixed it previously that's the very first place i would start. if it doesn't then you're looking at deeper diagnosis.

good information..still have to do a lot of rebuilding to get it to work on our chassis then. not ideal

yeah that's the much easier way to go, and now you've got a fresh set of heads for the next time you pick up another GT to restore!

 

i always see a bunch of imported engines on ebay for $2500ish though i don't know how different the JDM engines are to the north american ones

eesh that's scummy AF

 

and whole bunch of things you'd have to check if the crank isn't chewed up, but you might be able to get it polished and use a set of oversize bearings rather than replacing. but for that to make sense it'd have to cost less than a new crank since you're doing the same labor either way. and that all only makes sense if the cylinder isn't chewed up...investigation time

jeeeez that's some bad luck. crank all chewed up?

yep 19 or 20mm rear sway bar really changes the dynamic of the car, there's some OEM STi bars that fit, i got 19mm OEM one off a 2014 sti hatch. front i wouldn't bother with unless you're taking the engine out for gaskets or whatever. suspension, the consensus is either koni inserts or coilovers if you're upgrading over stock, or getting the 13-14 OEM set up which has stiffer dampening and springs. strut mounts you can get the group N ones, but i'm really not sure how much of a difference those make without upgrading the rest of the floppy stock suspension. read through the performance mods sticky and the few big suspension posts on here for more info.

never had an issue with TPMS and rotating tires, on any vehicle, and you shouldn't unless you are switching out wheels for, say, winter tires/track wheels etc. i personally rotate mine every oil change or around 4k miles(one side's done while waiting for the oil to drain, the other side while the oil filter housing is draining) and haven't had a problem with uneven wear or feathering.

ooh that xt wagon is sweeeet

or is that the perfect time to do it? kitchen engine rebuild!

ooh that's a beaut s2

So, if the head gaskets are fine, leave them alone.

 

exactly

well...i changed my clutch when i had to get the head gaskets done...i know there are a few people on here that have also had to do head gaskets, but i don't think it's as widely common as the older EJs since these engines use MLS gaskets. if the engine's already out the hard part is over for replacing them, but you'll still have to get machine work done and then that's even more project creep...turn it from a day or two to a week plus, depending on your machine shop, and then you're looking at possibly lifter buckets and extra seals and a whole can of worms.

 

i went with a stage 1 OEM from exedy

i went with an exedy stage 1 clutch...i'm tuned to "stage 1" with an AP and don't intend to push the car any more than that as far as power levels go, and i'm certainly not a track person, so i feel it fits my use case well. just slightly grabbier than OEM, but still nice and smooth and easy to use in traffic etc. i just resurfaced my flywheel and used it again, been just fine for the past 20k miles

god these cars still clean up nice, looks good scoob

good old project creep. it never ends...

I went overkill and replaced everything with new when I did my clutch, so take this list with a grain of salt: New stock exedy flywheel, flywheel bolts, solid clutch fork, billet pivot ball, and trans snout repair kit (for the throw out bearing).

 

Engine out is the best time for rear main seal, FSB, FSB bushings/lube, trans fluid drain/fill, downpipe, wastegate porting, turbo coolant lines, spark plugs, engine mount inspection, starter gear lube, engine bay cleaning, etc..... its a slippery slope.f.

 

should reseal the oil pan while you're in there as well. PCV valve. pop off the rocker covers and check valve clearance/replace buckets if they're worn. replace anything that looks rusty and crusty and anything weeping...if you plan on keeping the car just do all of the maintenance you can in one fell swoop while the engine's out, you'll thank yourself later.