EatingInternet

Success! Files coming shortly. The fitment is very tight, and the radio actually holds incredibly well without needing the side panels as shown just from friction fit. It would probably slide back in a crash but in normal driving I doubt it would ever come out. The screw holes probably aren't even needed for the adapter, but time will tell. As such I'm posting two STLs: one without the side panels and one with. I would recommend probably trying the one without side panels and if that doesn't work too well, then try side panels or mounting to the inside of the dash. A small section of the dash does need to be cut to fit the radio, unless you are going with a very shallow unit.

I see. I designed my adapter to fit flush with my radio but it may need some modification for other radios. My mounting also sucks, it would be better to make some kind of bracket to attach to the dash instead of to the fascia. No promises right now, if my version works for my I probably won't want to mess with it anymore. In any case I'll include the solidworks file as well once I confirm everything fits. The newest version is coming of the printer in a few hours so fingers crossed. Bonus: I installed the fascia in my car and it fits perfectly. The dash will almost certainly require trimming to fit a long double din radio though. Hacksaw works perfect.

From the reviews on the product page. Looks like it fits perfect.

I have not test fit the cubby into the dash yet. If there are huge gaps then I'll just have to figure something out haha. I think I saw a picture of some russian who installed one and it looked okay but don't quote me on that. I'll upload pictures once I have mine installed. It is an Atoto head unit, but I was basing my dimensions based off of the jdm kit for the opening, and the atoto for the double din cage. The atoto also fits perfectly into the jdm kit so I didn't think there would be any issues. If it's too big it's not a problem as the screws will suck the cage into smaller units, and if its too small then some radios just might not fit because the cage is already pretty tight against the fascia and doesn't have a lot to hold onto in the adapter. I'll confirm dimensions with the stock radio to make sure my cage is big enough. Also: word of advice, do NOT remove the air vent fins. I noticed there were some circular casting marks on the top of some of the fins so I figured someone installed them upside down from the factory. This is incorrect, as the pieces are actually numbered in order and each fin only goes in one spot to move at the correct angle. The passenger's side fins are slightly shorter than the driver's side so they don't swap. Reinstalling them takes a long time and is difficult, and the trim that holds the fins in is actually plastic welded with a soldering iron on one side to hold them all in. Just don't remove them, deal with the casting lines, they're barely visible anyways.

Argh... so close. Need to retolerance a few things and redesign the mounting system. This will 100% work though!!

Got the model finished minus the cage which I will be bonding for ease of printing. Will test tonight and if it fits well enough I'll release the STL. BARELY fits on my ender 3 pro but I think it'll be ok.

Update: started work on an adapter. I'm using the small 5 holes in the fascia and putting screws through them which will thread into my adapter. They can't be enlarged due to being so close to the vents so there isn't much meat around the holes, so I hope that they'll be enough to support the weight of the radio. If not, I will have to permanently bond the adapter to the fascia but that's not a big deal. The cage that actually mounts to the side of the radio will be tricky to print in one piece as a structure that thin will definitely warp in ABS unless I print it flat, so I'm thinking I will print the cage separately and then bond/melt the cage to the main adapter. For now I'm just printing in PLA for prototyping. Otherwise it's going well, and I think this will work excellently. I don't know if anyone still cares about a 15 year old car, but I'm personally excited that newcomers won't have to pay $350 for some jdm bullshit to get a radio in their car. Once I'm done I'll post the STL files so other people can print them out too, maybe put it on thingiverse too.

Can this be used to program a new key to the same ecu? Or only for a key that was already programmed? From what I understand you're copying a rom over but not editing it.

Update: I just received my unit yesterday. The throughhole opening is exactly double din sized so a radio would fit PERFECT in this housing, and the mounting location in the car is so much higher up which I think is perfect for safety since you don't have to look down to see your radio. Also my hands won't block my view either. I think this will be as simple as making a mounting bracket for the radio that somehow attaches to this fascia securely and 3D printing it. I don't know how motivated I will be to do this as I already installed my double din kit, but I'm currently unemployed so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ we'll see. It also appears to use the stock vents, as the mounting tabs for the smaller size vents go much farther out and appear to be the same position as for the oem cubby thingy. Attached are some pics. Overall quality feels good, haven't compared to oem yet but seems like it's good overall. Chrome is missing on the vent tabs but that's the biggest difference I noted.

Saw something interesting on aliexpress today. Was looking for some kind of way to hackjob my new radio in since the JDM kit I ordered has been lost in transit for about 3 months now. Found a new ABS fascia that replaces the top cubby / navigation area with a bezel for a nine inch screen. Figured I could 3D printe an adapter to get a double din radio installed cleanly, will update once I get it. There are other models selling with a radio / android headunit already installed but they are much more expensive and the included headunit I think is a 10inch that sticks out of a double din slot, but I imagine all use the same base double din mounting I think so it shouldn't be too hard to adapt. Costed $46 shipped. Take a look: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001039088367.html

Got some stuff for sale. Prefer local pickup but will ship at your expense. Excluding the downpipe, the other stuff will be thrown away if it doesn't sell soon so make offers. $20 - Crank pulley $20 - Stock fuel line, with the neon push lock $Free - chrome shifter bezel trim for automatic SOLD: to pdXammo: $130 - Stock catted downpipe from a 5eat $40 - ForcedPerformance in-line turbo oil filter that BNR recommends you use with their turbos. Includes the fittings for 6AN hose (?) and a good length of hose to Terrhaugh: $Free - various exhaust gaskets for turbo and uppipe, some new some used. Also included is a uppipe to turbo spacer and uppipe studs $15 - Turbo coolant and oil hard lines, some corrosion but didn't leak, my new turbo came with its own $5 - Owner's manual with leather cover $40 - Aesthetic engine cover (ooooo, aaaaaa)

I did change the air filter and had to wiggle the box around a bit. Maybe I accidentally disconnected it? I'll check this weekend when I see the car again, thanks for the input.

So long story short I used to have a 05 legacy gt that got stolen about a month and a half ago, and replaced it with another 05 but wagon this time. On the drive home from buying the wagon, the turbo blew (130 mile drive). There was excessive oil in the inlet and tb hose, and it had front and back shaft play (but almost no side to side. Clogged filter yada yada yada been there done that, last car had the same problem. Replace turbo, remove filters, etc. I decided to replace the turbo with an amazon unit with a billet wheel in the interest of time, and because I didn't trust the $140 stock rebuilt ones, nor did I want to pay $600 for another stock from rockauto. We can argue about this decision all day long but it's on the car and it works. Builds boost great. However, I'm getting a really loud turbo spool noise and blowoff valve sound right around 2500rpm to 3500rpm. This sounds like whirring wind or like an open turbo that has no air filter or inlet tube and when I let off the throttle it whooses like I almost have a real BOV, but I have all stock recirc valve, intercooler, etc and this car did NOT make this noise with the last turbo. Similarly, my last car with a BNR evo3 16g also did NOT make this noise and that was with uppipe downpipe and other stage 2 mods. It's important to note that under full throttle above 4k rpm the car sounds perfectly normal, it's only just as its building boost it makes the noise. The best description for this noise is honestly like Cleetus McFarland's Leroy as the turbos spool up or down. I find it hard to believe the car suddenly made a new boost leak as nothing leaked before I swapped the turbo. I double checked both ends of the TB hose and they were fine. The inlet clamp is also tight. Gasket on the intercooler appears to be in good condition. What gives? My ideas: -Boost leak (intercooler, the hose "T" next to the turbo with the restrictor, elsewhere?) -Exhaust leak (I did have to use a shitty gasket on the lower downpipe gasket since I didn't have time to drive out and get an MLS one, but I don't hear any exhaust leaks at idle, maybe a leak at the uppipe or downpipe? I used Mahle MLS for those.) -Turbo/billet wheel just noisy? No mechanical problems just different -Something related to me rotating the v-band on the turbo as it was in the way in the coolant bolts -???

As of last Friday I am a proud owner of a transgo modded valve body. Very impressed and happy with my purchase! Well worth the $230, feels nice and smooth when cruising around town but when you lay it down it grabs much much quicker. I think TCU is still learning as the shifts seem to be getting more reliably quick under open throttle, but overall I'm very happy and it wasn't as hard as it looked to install. No idea what my power numbers are but I have the Evo 3 16g with up pipe, downpipe, process west tmic clone, and a tune. I didn't have any slipping problems before and the tranny was quite clean inside for it's age (180k miles). Definitely getting a cooler now though as I replaced all my fluid 20k ago and it was already getting quite brown!

Sounds like a faulty or dirty MAF to me. My mom's Suzuki did exactly the same thing when her MAF went bad. What you could do is actually keep the RPMs up around 1000-1500 in neutral and then "drop" it into drive and reverse and it would still drive around long enough for the code to pop up, and stall when you tried to stop the car and idle. Obviously if you try this be careful to not peel out of your driveway and run grandma over. In any case try finding a buddy with another Subaru and swapping MAFs, or at least clean yours and see if that helps.

The top of the ps pump has a plastic piece attached with a single bolt, the plastic piece leads to a hose that goes to the ps fluid resevoir (low pressure return line). That plastic piece when taken off has a little o ring that gets hard and leaks over the years. Check to see if your ps fluid is low and I would bet that's the cause if so.

It's a long shot but when I had my aux plugged in and my.phone charging the interference from the charger made a super weird whine and I thought for sure my turbo was gonna blow.

Grab some more hours at work and pay the troll toll. Finance if you can't afford the lump sum. Don't reinvent the wheel.

Yes, it sounded almost exactly like that. Try tightening the castle nut (back it off if need be). If it makes that noise it's 99% ball joint, but even if it doesn't there's a good chance. Mine clicked like once after I lifted it, but no more.

Yes! That's why I was so confused, the sound is even very similar but not exactly the same. The only thing that really seems to set it apart from CV axles is that by my understanding if the u-joints inside the axle are going bad then as you drive in a circle it will constantly click, but my car did not. It only click while actually turning the wheel. I also noticed when I was tightening and loosening the castle nut on the ball joint (mevo) it made the exact same sound as I heard in the car, but with the moog ball joint in the castle nut didn't "ping" or "click" unlike the mevo one. Thank you so much! Your post is actually what led me to testing the ball joints before going for a cv axle, and I ended up having the same issue.

UPDATE I FIXED IT So the steering wheel shaking was reduced a lot after driving for a little while, I think this was just some contamination in the power steering fluid when I cleaned that area with brake clean (while turning the wheel in the air the fluid gargled and spit some out). Whatever steering wheel vibrations remain are likely just alignment at high speeds. THE REAL ISSUE WAS MY NEW BALL JOINTS > I bought the aluminum Mevotech LCA and the ball joints were DOA, nice and clicky. As I drove around more the clicking would start happening at higher speeds when turning and occasionally on a bumpy gravelly road. Other people have reported issues with this shitty ball joints so I nabbed some Moog ones and haven't had the problem since. Word of advice if you have the same issue: The mevotech ball joints have a black conical sleeve above the threads that needs to be removed. Use a forged ball joint seperator like this one, that has a sort of flat pickle fork on the top and a jaw on the bottom with a pin connecting them in the middle and a screw forcing them apart on the handle end (description for if the link to harbor freight ever breaks) and just pop it off like that. Careful though, my ball joint flew about 20-30 feet when they finally separated so step on the tool with your foot while tightening and point the ball joint away from anything you don't want broken. Good luck!

So the issue has progressed some more: now the steering wheel shudders or vibrates a bit when turning. It also shudders a lot when going over bumps, like a back and forth for a split second. Power steering pump? Rack and pinion? Tie rod ends?

Lubed the shiny bit of the struts with a bunch of silicone spray. Did nothing. Lubed the sway bar bushings with a bunch of silicone spray. Did nothing. It would click like once or twice in the air after lifting so I can't really feel around besides right behind the tire/wheel while it's on the ground.

What kind of lube we talking, pb blaster, lithium, silicone? Also never heard of spraying the moving shock bit but can't imagine it doing much damage. I'll try it today

Edit: I can get it to click once or twice while the wheels are off the ground now, so don't think it's the strut/shock. Here's the deal. When taking a turn at low speeds like parking lot or making a u-turn I hear some clicks, and can slightly feel them in the steering wheel and can feel them in the bare metal at my left foot (no carpet, automatic so where the clutch would be). It's mainly the driver's side when making lefts turns and returning from a left turn but it occasionally happens on the passenger side too. They don't have a pattern or rhythm and only happen while the wheel is actually turning and on the way back, not when holding wheel still and driving while turning, only when the steering wheel is moving. It started after I replaced my lower control arms which were in bad shape as the bushings were delaminating. I replaced the LCAs with the mevotech aluminum ones. Once I heard the clicking I knew my end links were pretty bad too so I grabbed new moog ones. No difference. It's slowly gotten worse to where I can get it to click while the car is stationary and just rubbing the tires into the pavement. I felt around and it felt like it was coming from the sway bar or middle of the LCA? Almost no vibrations in tie rod ends, ball joint, dust shield, wheel/rotor itself, and coil spring. The spring wasn't binding either. I checked all the bolts I undid when doing the LCAs and those were still tight, maybe I should recheck them? I also checked the strut mount bolts and the main strut bolt and those were fine. Because I didn't feel the vibration of the click in the tie rod end and I don't have any drifting or significant steering wheel vibration at speed I don't think it's the tie rod ends. I also don't think CV-joint because it doesn't happen when accelerating during a turn and the boots are fine. My best guess right now is either sway bar bushings (??) or maybe the rack and pinion bushings. If you have any ideas or experienced this please let me know.