EatingInternet

My solution uses the top cubby. Your old radio will still be in place and use the AC, but will otherwise not be functional. I have the design mostly finished, I am waiting on upgrades to my printer to make a decent product. See my other thread, new radio solution from the mainland. That's where I'm documenting my work

Printing a better adapter is on hold until I get a better print bed unfortunately. The abs I have keeps sticking to my removable build sheet and lifting it up, which curls the print. Should be a couple days. For those that bought the bezel please let me know if you're satisfied, I'm constantly improving the design and fitment.

So far the vent tube modification seems like it will work. The clock relocation bezels are now up for sale as I am satisfied with the design. However, I am now redesigning the double din adapter as it was complex and difficult to print even with my new printer upgrades. Instead, now I'm going to be mounting the radio to the back of the dash, and then making a simple face plate into the chinese fascia that will be hotglued in. It saves plastic, reduces print time, will result in a prettier product and overall be easier to use. I am also playing with the idea of making a visor for the radio as it looks a little goofy with such a large flat area. Kind of like those old tablets or touch screens that had a inch wide bezel. Back to the drawing board!

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Clock Relocation Bezel Description: This relocation bezel moves your stock clock unit from the upper cubby / vent area to the shifter bezel. This is useful for tablet or radio installs that use the space where the clock used to be. The part is 3D printed out of ABS which will not warp in the heat and is what most stock interior parts are made of. It is currently only offered in black, which is fairly close to the color of the other center console pieces. These can be sanded / body fillered if desired to remove 3D printing artifacts, or vapor smoothed with acetone. Personally I like the look as is. They have a nice satin sheen to them, nothing crazy. If you want a custom color there is a one time charge for the filament of your choice, after which whoever wants that color can have it at standard price (until I run out). Price: $35 + shipping ~$25 extra for a custom color, one time fee. Installation: This part is installed into the shifter bezel where the ashtray and cigarette lighter are located. The old door is removed, and my bezel is hot glued into place. The stock clock then fits into my bezel, and is held in place with the stock two screws. This is similar to another product on the market. The product is fairly sturdy but be gentle with it. There may be slight gaps around the outside of the bezel, but these will not be visible once installed as it is dark behind the bezel. You can also slightly squeeze the shifter bezel to close gaps and I recommend using black hot glue as well. You may need to file down the back of the shifter bezel, it has vertical tabs which might get in the way of the clock bezel. This will be fixed in future versions. If the clock or the bezel do not fit, DO NOT force them together. You can easily crack the clear part of the clock around the edges. They should snap together fairly easily. If they don't, file down where they are interfering a little bit. If they still don't fit contact me and I will send a replacement.

This thread will serve as a storefront for my 3D printed designs. As of now I am currently only offering the clock relocation bezel but I will also have the double din adapter as well as other little projects I print for my car available shortly. As a courtesy to the community, I am also sharing the designs I made as well as the source solidworks parts. I have benefited a lot from the site at no charge to me so the least I can do is give back to the community a little bit. These are for PERSONAL USE ONLY, licensed under Creative Commons, Non-commercial, attribution. What this means is do not seek to sell my design unless you significantly improve/modify it. If you modify my design, attribute me. If you would like to sell my design as is, contact me and maybe we can work something out. My designs are on thingiverse under the same username for STLs. If you would like the solidworks file please contact me, I get email notifications. You may also request I make a new part. Send me a PM with what you want custom made and if I believe there is enough demand / I am interested I may make it. Currently for sale: -Clock Relocation Bezel in ABS How it works: 1. PM me to place an order - I will need your PayPal email and physical address for shipping. 2. Once the order is finished, I will send you a PayPal invoice. 3. Once the invoice is paid, I send out the product and give you a shipping number. (See posts below for full details).

After some more research, I found someone on AliExpress who was able to install his stock tubes. His design was a one piece tube instead of a two piece. A one piece tube is found on navigation fascias. So if you have a navigation fascia, your tubes will likely fit. For a regular clock fascia/cubby the tubes will need to be modified for sure. The fascias are pretty cheap nowadays if I make a mistake, so I'm just going to cut mine to fit. Should be pretty hard to mess up but still.

Here's what I'm talking about. I'm thinking I'll cut the clips on the fascia off, and then cut the sides off the tube so it sits flush with the fascia, and then just hot glue the seam all around.

Update: The relocation adapter design is finished and I have 2 ready to go, need to print another 3 tomorrow when I get more plastic. I also tried to install the vent tubes onto the chinese fascia today and discovered they don't fit. They were likely made for the european or russian market or something, or maybe even a different cubby. In any case, now I need to make vent tube adapters or modify the vent tubes / fascia to fit. It shouldn't be too bad but I like making things require the least amount of permanent modification possible so it's a bit frustrating. I think I will probably just cut a little bit away until it sits flush and then hot glue.

I was talking about the process of getting it to print right. 3D printers can be very finicky, and when I was first trying to print the ABS at room temperature it warped and cracked due to temperature differentials in the print surface, nozzle, and ambient air which mess with how the plastic expands and contracts. I solved this by creating a box out of foam duct insulation which significantly raised the air temperature within the box just by keeping heat from the printer components in. The whole point of me using ABS plastic (despite how difficult it is to print) is because it has a high temperature resistance, which means it won't warp or bend even in a very hot car in the summer time. It should last forever pretty much. Vapor smoothing is using acetone vapors to dissolve the outside of the plastic which will smooth out the layers lines and give a very nice surface finish but also makes it looks glossy, which is bad in this particular application. It only works for ABS plastic, which is one of the selling points. I also did not stick a blade into it, that's just where the printer started laying down plastic on that layer so it gives a little bit of a weird artifact to the surface. I may be able to remove it but no guarantees. The printer itself costed ~$200, plus $20 for a roll of plastic, and $30 for the enclosure to enable printing ABS cleanly. This doesn't include any maintenance or upgrades, I probably have close to $400 into my setup over the last year. As for price I'm still deciding. It won't be a lot. Just wait for the posting, it'll be ready when it's ready. I'm spending every day on this so it's not going to go any faster, I'm just making sure the product is up to my standards before selling it to people as well as documenting the process for anyone who wants to try it themselves down the line.

Got ABS printing perfectly on my printer! All it took was a real enclosure made from duct insulation, inch thick, R value of 6. This is my first working piece but I will probably sell it discounted since the ABS shrinks a little and there's a half millimeter gap on the shifter bezel. I'm sorta a perfectionist and I want mine to have minimal gap. If you have some black hot glue it would look great though. In any case I'm accounting for dimensional shrink now with future versions. I will probably print about 5 ABS relocation bezels and 3 ABS radio adapter bezels to start with for selling, as well as a pair for myself. One print takes about a day but the listing should be up in about a week. Still need to make a better mounting solution for the radio adapters, but I need to actually install my radio and bezel first The color is shockingly similar to stock and I was originally planning on vapor smoothing these parts to remove layer lines, but now I don't want them any shinier since they look OEM as is and the layers are pretty tiny at the angle the driver sees them.

You got an aftermarket rear sway bar? And upgraded mounts potentially?

A decent one is the ender 3 pro which has now been upgraded to ender v2. There are also sla or dlp printers which use liquid resin on a plate and are far more detailed but tend to have smaller sizes and are much more annoying to clean/process and the resins don't have great properties. An example would be elegoo Mars printer. If you really just want to test the waters there's a $100 printer called the monoprice mini which does small prints for cheap but is very limited with regards to materials and mods. You can definitely get in the game for $100 but it's better to spend the cash and go for $200+, the more the better. Look up reviews on printers though, they're always coming out with newer and more competitive models.

3d printers create objects in layers, so imagine taking a bunch of parallel thin slices out of an object and the 3d printer just makes those layers on top of each other (at least most do. There's other styles as well). Depending on the orientation, a print can look ugly especially on curved surfaces because of the minimum layer height being relatively high ~0.2mm. You can make smaller layers and tune your printer for all eternity but the finer the details the longer it takes to print and tune the printer itself. At some point good is enough. My prototype prints take usually 3-8 hours so that kinda gives you a scale of how long it takes. If I wanted to make a finished part with super tiny layer lines and make it look like it was injection molded, it would probably take days just to make the bracket and would have a high chance of failure. The guy who wrote that review probably just expected another injection molded part and didn't read the description. It probably wasn't that bad unless the seller is straight shipping garbage. From his Facebook page he actually uses carbon fiber nylon now so I doubt it. The only reason I made my own adapter is because I didn't like his price. If it was $20 I would've just bought one because of the labor it takes to make one. $80 is getting into buy-your-own cheap printer territory. Also this is fun for me, and I'm interested in getting ABS printing nice as you can chemically smooth ABS parts to remove layer lines.

Argh. So close. The bottom is completely flat, no warping, but the top cracked and broke while removing supports. The quality is great otherwise, just need to dial in the printer. I am going to build a better printer enclosure this week, so hopefully I should be able to get some prints I'm a little more proud of and market worthy.

The panel relocation kit is just about done btw. Printing a release version in abs now and will upload pics if all is well. It will require hot glue for bonding the adapter to the shifter bezel, and the clock will then bolt into the adapter. On my end I'll be doing a little bit of plastic welding getting the tabs to mount the clock. This is only required because I want to print the piece lengthwise up which produces the best looking print and the tabs would not provide a solid base for the printer since they stick out the sides. You'll see when I post the pic. Also decided for the radio adapter I'll print some brackets to mount to the dash instead of the fascia just in case. Excited to have my setup done. This has been a good chunk of work.

The adapter I made is supposed to fit any double din radio. I saw the tablet options but I didn't want them because a lot of sellers lie about the specs on the tablet or they're just poor quality in general. Not all but you definitely have to read the fine print. Plus, once that tablet is out of date you're out of luck. My solution is meant to be a little more universal. As such I'm able to fit a better radio in (I.e. getting full channel support, app store, ips screen, etc).

Yeah I have black ABS I've been printing the final pieces in. Also plan on vapor smoothing which should give a really good finish and hide the layer lines. The color is very similar to the fascia even without painting.

Yeah, I could make a few extra for sale. Priced lower than the other guys for sure. My prints won't be perfect as they come off a hobbyist printer so for example the first fascia printed in ABS curls a bit towards the edges and doesn't sit 100% flush with the fascia unlike the gray one shown in the photos. They should all be functional though and they're not ugly, just imperfect. Let me finish up making the relocation bracket and get the whole setup installed so I can make a proper listing. I'll drop it in the classifieds in a week or so.

New work on clock relocation bracket. This is just the profile for the face. I will probably start a new thread with my personal designs if I do a third.

The 3d printed relocation kit doesn't have any files, they only sell the product. Why buy it when I have all the tools to make it? Avo doesn't sell their relocation kit anymore but by the comments it looked like it was $200!

Looks like there aren't any files for a clean clock relocation kit, so I think I have my next project

Here is the link to the files: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qq5EodmTjcSlFIfbg1KVtnK-M6qyxJLs?usp=sharing Please do not sell my designs without my permission. These are for personal use only. If you would like to sell them, please pm me. I'm not always active but I get email notifications so I will see it. If you appreciate the work I did, I have PayPal and Venmo you can donate to if you want. Please pm me and I'll send you the details. Enjoy!