Notorious

So, the project is to install an accessory exterior puddle light which switches on with the dome light. With the research I’ve done, the way to trigger this to use the brown wire off of the BIU which is an alternating ground.

 

My theory is to tap into that ground using a 12v-87 style relay to use the brown wire as a trigger. When the trigger wire from the relay is grounded, this would power the puddle lights with the way I have it setup.

 

My concern is accidentally frying the BIU...

 

If I use a small 1amp fuse on the relay, Will this diminish the possibility of frying the BIU? I’ve also heard that the brown wire from the BIU also changes into a positive 12v current instead of a ground but I haven’t found much in my research to truly buy into that yet. If that is the case, then it would blow the fuse every time and I wouldn’t be able to continue with this project.

 

Anything helps, thanks!

 

Also if there are other ways to trigger puddle lights with the keys, I’d like to hear suggestions for that as well.

Hmm well they have nothing to do with smog actually. Some other people said they passed because the tech said as long as the CEL is not actually on before/during smog, they will pass.

 

Most of the time, that is the case. Some techs see it as a clue for something else that would be cause for a fail. I’m tired of all the smog hoops and ladders to pass so I said forget it. Pay the man.

If the stored codes are even remotely related to emissions components, it’s still automatic fail I believe. Could be wrong though. I’ve been hotsmogging the last couple times.

Check out this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/paddle-shifters-05-07siii-190261.html?highlight=Steering+wheel

 

Don't think its that simple of a swap at all.

Rear diff bushing inserts from Whiteline made more of a difference than their pitch stop for me.

This could get a lot more complicated but if it were me doing this mod... I would wire a relay switch to alternate the power sent from the steering wheel stalk to go to either the stock pump to spray windshield or the other pump to the intercooler spray.

 

You can hide the switch probably inside the fuse box area on the bottom left of the dash and the trigger for spray would be the right steering wheel stall where it’s easily accessible while driving hard.

 

But of course this requires reading into more wiring diagrams which still gives me headaches sometimes.

Absolutely need? No. Will it make a difference if you do though? Absolutely.

Washed the car yesterday and replaced my oil pressure sensor for my gauge today. I have a feeling it failed prematurely because it is mounted pretty close to the turbo despite heat shielding on that. Wrapped the new sensor with 3M silver temperature reflective tape and DEI gold stuff over that. Hoping it lasts more than a year this time.

I use the Moroso steel pan and pickup and I’m pretty happy with it. Killer B isn’t worth the extra cash imo.

FYI, it is possible to replace the throttle position sensor on its own. You can find them used on ebay. Otherwise you can buy a new throttle pedal assembly all together. You probably won’t find the throttle position sensor brand new for sale on its own.

 

Usually issues with your TPS will result in a check engine light for TPS voltage low.

How much knock are we talking about here?

I’ve been using Purolator Boss filters for the last few years. The bypass PSI on their website reads a generous range of 20-30psi. Although the filter is good for 15k miles I usually set my intervals still at 3500 miles just to be on the safe side.

T6 is cheaper at Walmart. It’s usually $19 around here.

Rotella T6 and Motul Xcess are the top two best popular choices. As you should know Mobil 1 5w-30 is the worst popular choice. I’m a supporter of any 40 weight over the 30 weight recommended. I’ve used T6 for years but Castrol Edge is what I used in the past when I still had my cats on. The Zinc that was in the old T6 formula isn’t ideal for your cats. Not sure about the new one to be honest. Picking oil shouldn’t be complicated. Most of them out there are okay. I’ve even heard the amazon basics oil is pretty damn good. Just make sure you change it often.

 

You’re on the right track by thinking OCV. I would replace them and the oil at the same time. Did the oil light come on as well?

Are you sure the radiator is sitting properly and the pegs are in the holes? I went with Koyorad because Mishimoto build quality isn’t on par.

https://invictusaero.bigcartel.com/product/subaru-legacy-gt-diffuser

 

"Notorious" discount code saves 15%

I have not owned one long enough to know, are most usdm models HID? What makes these different? Is there an external ballst with them if that's not a standard item in USDM?

 

All USDM headlights are halogen. JDM headlights have a ballast underneath for the HIDs as well as motors for the leveling which needs to be wired and requires installing another JDM switch in the cabin to use.

 

JDM headlights also have a separate DRL bulb from the Amber turn signal.

Replace the PCV Valve. 8 quarts every 3k is extremely high. Are you sure you still have your drain plug in?

I have no real experience with these, just arm chair surfing and came across some posts here and outback forums on ball joint issues with these.

 

Here Post #7

 

Here at Outback forums.

 

There are other thread out there.

Two issues came up.

1) short lifespan on ball joints

2) a sleeve that sits inside the control arm that the ball joint goes into. This caused some grief removing the original ball joint and is needed for a good fit if you decide to change to another ball joint, like Moog.

 

You can remove the sleeve from the ball joint with a chisel and some penetrant and it slips off. Just FYI incase you wanted to install Moogs before you got the arms in.

Mine lasted almost 2 years. It is a little disappointing but I just used it as an excuse to upgradeto Whiteline’s KCA313 Kit. They did go through a lot of abuse tho as I had to replace my axles several times and I had to hammer on and off that ball joint.

Seems like the best bang for buck until I do the full charge pipe and intercooler upgrade. What JB weld did you use?

 

The black JB weld which you have to mix 50/50 yourself is the only one you should ever really use. Needs 24-48 to fully cure but I just let it set overnight and it was fine. The quick set stuff will work too but it is weaker.

I JB welded my OEM intercooler with two coats all around the seams and it held 18psi fine. Cheapest option and it works.