GearJamr

Got the wiring figured out. Only now the lights only work if the engine is off. Waiting for call back from the retrofit source.

I got the Morimoto H1 mini retro-quik HID kit for my 05 legacy. I have come across an issue while connecting the wiring for the bulbs. I have an adapter cable (in pic) which connects to the OEM bulb connector, but the opposite male end has nowhere to connect. The cable for the bulb has two male quick disconnects that also apparently have nowhere to go, but could plug into the OEM bulb connector. Is that where they are supposed to go? I'd have to change the connectors to a proper size but wondering if it will work? Hopefully someone has the answer, kinda need the car to go back to work Tuesday. TIA

i put some Sylvania H7 LED low beam headlights in my 05 GT last night. They work fine except when running just on DRL they flicker. If I turn on the headlights they are solid. My guess is the voltage or amps are just slightly lower for the DRLs and causing the flicker. Are there any solutions for this issue?

I soldered my power wires together. No need to splice into anything.

Not to mention the costs and hassles of importing. But it sure is a beaut.

I replaced a pile of suspension bits during the summer. As time has progressed, it is getting very creaky and sometimes high-pitched squeaky. I'm fairly certain it is coming from the rear, likely the left hand side. When first going from a stop, there is an audible creak, which goes away once the car is in motion. Going over bumps will cause the creak to re-appear. The squeak comes in when going slowish, between about 20 and 40 mph and only over mid-sized bumps. It seems to be on rebound, not compression. Would have adding new bushings on the lower control arms and sway bar perhaps be putting additional strain on another bushing? Maybe differential bushing or trailing arm? Or could it just be the "greaseless" whiteline bushings on the sway bar?

Manual, but I am not looking to sell. For obvious reasons. I also just put in about $2k worth of suspension pieces and another $3k of repair, so I'd never get out of it what I've already put in.

I had an 06 2.5i auto wagon. Ran amp wire through that exact grommet. Imagine my surprise when I got my 05 LGT 5MT wagon and went to use that grommet. Had to go through the left fender - not as easy a job.

For comparison sake, I bought my 05 GT Ltd wagon with 139,000 kms in November 2017 for $6500. Personally, as long as the turbo doesn't have play and is working normally, I don't think mileage is the sole contributor in replacing it. If you are serious about it and they're willing to work on price, see if you can take it somewhere to have a compression test and PPI done. As we all know, buying a vehicle at that age is a crapshoot. It could be fine for a few months and then BAM, you have a $3000 repair bill.

That grommet is free if you have an automatic. If a manual, that is used by the clutch pedal assembly. I'm guessing you have an auto if you can see it, so yes, go for it.

Maybe not a true GT? But that fuel door looks bent/twisted as just the bottom is sticking out. And if the cable was broken, wouldn't the whole door not close?

Outer tie rods were replaced in May. Tires were balanced and I took it for a drive last night on the highway and no shaking, even up to ~ 90 mph.

Well, diagnosis was tires. One was out of balance by 3.5 oz. That is significant. They saw no sign of bent rim, so just really out of balance. Haven't been able to get on the highway but at lower speeds where the wheel would start to shake it didn't on the way home, so fingers crossed. Will hit the highway for a short blast tomorrow. They said they took it "north of 120 (kph)" on a road test and no shake so hoping that was it. Just such an odd manifestation for out of balance tires.

Was quiet in the neighbourhood this morning, so I gave it a test. Still no clicking noise. Having my trusty mechanic take a look on Monday. Will report any findings.

No issues with the Moog thus far. Maybe they have made a design change. Can't say I have heard any clicking noises, but I will give that a listen. Seems that replacement is best to go with OEM for the axles.

I bought Moog. Came with a lot of good reviews from Subaru owners. So with some futher "testing", I have found the steering wheel vibrates starting about 70 kph (~45 mph). No noticeable shake in the car, just the steering wheel minor vibration. Steering inputs seem to quell or induce the shaking. Going straight it's fine, then after turning right it starts to jiggle. Turning left seems to make it stop. Colour me confused. Possibly the turning of the axle in the knuckle is making it move in or out and becoming unstable? With the axles being a possible problem, what is it about the aftermarket axles inducing problems?

I wondered about the axles. One of them being "off" could vibrate through the whole drivetrain. I did have the right front axle replaced about a year ago. Might be worth checking into. All of my wheel hubs were replaced after the wheel was damaged, so hopefully they aren't the problem!

I'll try to be brief but include necessary info.... In the past 3 months, I have done the following to my 05 LGT wagon: New brake calipers all around, due to some odd shaking at all speeds. Did have the bolts on the front left caliper back out and drop out. That was a fun discovery (fortunately close to home at low speeds). My inside pad on the front left got a little chipped up on the friction surface - possible culprit of my problem? Replaced 1 rim and tire (hit a giant pothole). Fortunately I bought 4 new late last year, so not much wear on the other 3 tires. Rim and tire are same make/model as the others. New shocks (Koni), springs (Swift), front and rear sway bars (whiteline) and endlinks (whiteline). New front control arms (mevotech), new tie rod ends (unknown brand, didn't buy them myself), new rear lower control arms (megan racing) and AVO sway bar brackets. After 2 alignments and some adjustments, the car rides and handles nicely. Aside from a few random squeaks, pretty satisfied. The problem is once I get to about 90 kph (~ 55 mph) I start to get a shaky steering wheel. It's minor at that speed. Usually goes away after a short time, like a minute or so. At 100 kph (~ 60 mph) the shake is present and stays, and is consistent. After that up to 120 kph (~ 75 mph) the shake becomes incredibly odd and inconsistent/intermittent. This is what baffles me. On the highway at this speed, it will go from zero shake, to the steering wheel shaking a bit, to semi-violent shake, then will disappear and will feel a shaking in my seat. Then it will disappear for a time, then will come back, sometimes in the seat, sometimes in the steering wheel. Then it will change again. When the new rim and tire were purchased, I had the other 3 balanced to ensure they were all fresh in that regard. The roads in this area are quite frankly s**t. Everyday is an obstacle course of potholes and pavement heaves. Fortunately I have a short drive to work and back, and mostly that is what I do. But as the kids' hockey season approaches, hitting the highway will be more regular. So, should I continue to look at wheel/suspension or is there something deeper that could be causing this odd behaviour? I have only had this car since Nov 17, so I don't know it's history. Still under 159,000 kms (~ 100k miles) and in relatively decent shape for a car that has seen multiple Canadian winters. Thanks for any insight you might have.

It's my understanding that the H&R springs are sedan only? Apologies if I am mistaken. For my wagon I got the Swift springs. Car now has a slight rake as the rear is just ever so slightly higher than the front (maybe a 1/4"). Personally, I think it looks great and it's about a 1" drop. They are paired with Konis as well. I went full on the Koni adjustment, but it's a little too bouncy, so I will probably dial them back about a 1/2 turn. Just fyi if you go that route.

Nice project! BTW, keep that girl. Any girl who not only supports a project like this but will actually help must be kept. I bought an 05 lgt wagon about 1.5 years ago. I have no specific plans for it, but with less than 100k miles on it, it's got plenty of potential. I did almost all the suspension work on it already and was hoping to do exhaust this year, but as it is a daily driver, maintenance comes first. Oh well, start saving up and get parts over the winter. Much looking forward to seeing how it turns out. One question though, why didn't you get it painted while pretty much everything was out of the car?

Sorry, I didn't mention it. The timing belt was 100% intact. It wasn't much longer for this world, but it was only the pulley that caused the issue. The pic the service advisor showed me had the belt perfectly attached and the tech said everything was still lined up exactly as is should be. Car is running quite smoothly now.

Gee, no offense taken. As I work as a machininst, I'd say my mechanical aptitude is pretty good. I am however, not a professional auto mechanic. That said.... Since I bought the car used about 1.5 years ago and it has just shy of 160k kms (100k miles) it is time for the timing belt to be replaced. Having it come to a clunking halt in my driveway sure seemed like a timing belt issue. hearing a metal screech when trying to crank it seemed like something was not rotating. While I'm no auto expert, I know the difference between the accessory and timing belts. My accessory belts were and are intact. I had the car towed to a garage and they pulled the timing cover and voila, the tensioner pulley (the one at the bottom with the cogs, which is what the service advisor told me it was and showed me a picture) had a nice chunk out of it since the bearing in it basically blew up and seized the pulley. If I can get the picture I will share it. They replaced the timing belt with the full kit and it ran quite nicely after. So maybe the incorrect terminology was used. But given the shit I have endured over the last week, I really appreciate the immediate jump to I'm an idiot.

Today, put the wagon on a flatbed to send to the garage for the 2nd time in 2 weeks. Just got it back Thursday after it died (seized timing pulley - lucky), then tried to start it last night and starter tried once then quit. Tried to jump start it, but think I might have messed up the clutch. Hopefully not, but would be a good excuse to put in a 6-speed.

Thought I'd update.... Turned out that the bearing in one of the tensioner pulleys siezed. Timing belt replacement kit installed (which included the pulley) and voila, back in business. Dodged a HUGE bullet there.

Yeah, want to keep the car. Haven't found an option better for fun and practicality. It's at the shop now for diagnosis. But car just shut off with a clunk in my driveway. Tried to crank it once and received the automotive equivalent of f*** you. Sounds like the consensus is repair/rebuild?