Sparkey

Up at the top it does have, "Painting brake calipers without complying with Brembo's strict industrial procedures may produce a dangerous, unreliable and even aesthetically inferior product." But what, "Brembos strict industrial procedures" are, I have no idea. They also end with, "We do not deny that there may be professionals who are able to execute this type of operation properly" - but I wonder if they'll name names lol. I sent an e-mail to inquire. Looking at the picture with the sticker bombed caliper made me think... "can calipers be hydrodipped"? And it looks like people have, but I havent seen any long term use pics or reports. With hydro dipping you shouldnt even need to take it apart - just plug the holes, little tape and youre good to go. But they do recommend some sort of clear coat over them. If one was to do a homebrew paint job I would almost recommend "ceramakote" over powdercoat.

Correct. Supposedly it is a valve/bladder which slows the clutch release to reduce drivetrain shock. Many drivers take it out because it helps with a more direct feel with the clutch. Also it seems to fail and cause issues.

Whatever that hose is for it looks cut. See if you can find another half of a hose just hanging out? I dont have an air pump or anything, so no idea whats there, but the only other hoses I can think of that big are for the purge valve i believe. For the clutch pedal - that seems normal. Especially if you have the damper removed. Nice pedals... i just got a set myself If you want to be super OCD and verify - you can verify the pedal travel (5.31in I believe) and in the rested position the clevis attaching the master to the pedal should be loose and have zero tension on it. Curious how you like the motive. I use vacuum for bleeding air and dont always have the best of luck so i've been considering getting a motive so I can have every possible method to bleed.

Pop out entirely - not likely unless you're going real hard. My bolt was "snug" but not tight enough because I could take a pry bar and pop it in and out a good 1/8-1/4 of an inch. When doing a visual and bolt check it was over looked. Wasnt until my third visual it was actually sitting out of the socket enough to notice, then confirmed with the pry bar. Since tightening that and the endlink bolts I dont have any more unusual sounds.

Make sure your ball joint isnt popping out of the knuckle. I had all sorts of popping, creaking, and strange noises after I had my transmission swap - they left a ball joint bolt loose and under the right conditions it would pull out

Wait - are you saying you use Purple PVC Primer to clean battery terminals? Thats a new one - I just use baking soda. After futher re-reading of articles - do NOT use conductive grease. You're best off using dielectric. I stand corrected. My suggestion of conductive grease is a terrible idea because unless it is applied precisely then it increases the tendency to short because it conducts. Dielectric grease also does not insulate as much as I thought and conductive grease can be problematic... https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

Correct. I also like to use it on the seal part of connectors to keep it from drying out and make it easier to plug in and out. I learned this the hard way when I smothered my battery terminals in it and my truck wouldnt start EDIT: Dielectric is not as much of an insulator as thought. https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm The reason my truck would not start was I smothered the whole terminal and not the outside and it was a very high demand. Smaller connectors its fine and would be good to use.

I kind of hate being that guy, but Dielectric grease is no bueno for that purpose. Dielectric literally means non-conductive. I'd hit them with some QD Cleaner and use "Terminal grease" or "Ox guard" with much better conductive properties.

I think it depends on what you like. A lot of people like the Stop Tech Sport pads. I tried them in the fronts but didnt like the feel - not enough initial bite. Switched to OEM/Akebono and love them. They both stop the car and could lock up tires - but they felt different. Project Mu and HPS often also come up in this conversation but I've used neither. If you're interested, I have the Stop Tech sport rears, and Centric parking brake shoes available. On Sunday I went to "Growl Fest" and watched some autocross and drag racing. Some really nice builds out there! Really gave me the bug to get my car finished to start doing autocross. There was also an adoption shelter there and somehow I ended up bringing another husky home. Today I bought a 2002 Forester... only 341,000 miles! Second engine and trans. Going to use it as my daily while I put the LGT under the knife for top feed conversion, turbo upgrade, flex fuel and suspension swap. Plus it will make a nice dog hauler. Finally clean off my parts shelves and get the car autocross worthy! My only major issue with the Forester is it got swapped with an outback trans and so first and fifth are very awkward - polar opposite of my RA 4.44 trans. How come in the photo load how to it says jpg up to 7.64mb can be uploaded but I cant get a photo above 2mb to load?

Newused wheels and tires. Wanted to paint them gold, but im kind of liking them as they are.

Oh my. That grill Found the "clunk/thunk" since my swaybar install - apparently ball joints arent supposed to move in and out of the spindle/knuckle? Found no cracks... just wasnt properly tightened last time.

Oh im sorry, I thought this topic was Clutch Damper valve delete to achieve a better clutch... my mistake. I didnt know it was frowned upon to discuss things

Theres a reason I quoted the post I did... Also i was asking about someone ether doing it themselves or giving up their old damper to be investigated as its the same valve... which is only in 5th gens. Thanks tho...

Fair warning, looks like the newer style master is being used for all now. Need to confirm tomorrow but when I got a new master for my 05, thats what they gave me. And yes, that is likely the damper which ive seen no attempts to tinker with yet... anyone want to donate/sacrafice their deleted valve in the name of mods? I have a cusco on my 4th gen. Techna fit makes custom lines, im looking into getting a one piece from master to slave.

My whole car is cracked... you can carbon fiber fix it right? My cardboard fiber isnt holding well. I'm game for that - I will have to find some time to get it pulled and packed but I'll let you know when I do. Thanks man!

Oh sure, mod has to come in and ruin the fun I guess Ive always seen and would have thought to use imitation carbon leather - can you do a real carbon fiber boot? Even better... what about carbon fiber boot frames?! I know mine and im sure many others are cracked to pieces. Look what youve started!! Im going to need a second job for all this...

Do you really need all 400+ horsepowers in traffic? If youre that serious about cooling but dont want a FMIC then you need more airflow and or I/C mist. From my reading here it seems like air to water is best suited for drag racing, but air to air is better for endurance and street. Ive read that underhood temps drop very quickly once moving - provided you can get proper air flow.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=flatirons+pcv Flatirons has done some really good research into these topics. About an hours worth of video from their track session and catch can blackstone test. Interesting little side note, IAG says: Less than 600 WHP on pump gas – IAG recommends the Competition Series AOS Less than 600 WHP on E85 – IAG recommends the Street Series AOS Greater than 600 WHP on E85 / PUMP GAS / RACE GAS – IAG recommends the Competition Series AOS which seems to imply that the fuel type and HP may affect your choice. Overall I think Crawford and IAG are the best because they heat the can which is beneficial. However in a quick look at the crawford they said they mount to the TGV's and dont work with after market TGV's. So mounting location may come into play as well - IAG seems to have more options.

I missed this - whats the issue?

So then does it require a TGV delete? I plan on going top feed with deletes but the way you say that makes me wonder if you have to delete them if it highjacks the signal if you werent planning on it. Just curious.

From about 7:30 to 14:00

So glad this is real - I half expected to get rick rolled. But because we were never gonna give it up, cobb wasnt going to let us down.

:drool: The STi pink accented one. So pretty. Amazing!

"FlexFuel" isnt a power adder - Just the ability to run any ethanol content and not have to load a new tune.

Thank you sir. Kind of a bummer as that certainly adds to the cost, but hopefully there will be a supreme combo package deal that makes me forget about it. And I know you dont want to use customers as beta-testers, but you're welcome to hire me as a beta-tester if that makes you feel better