lilredwagon

Looking for the accordion piece that goes between the stock airbox and the turbo inlet. If you have one, let me know how much shipped to 91042 (Los Angeles). Thanks!

Sweet, congrats! Now where are the pics?

Cool! Yeah, I had to travel for mine too a few years ago. There are people out there that will pay for a good example, you just need to get the word out that there's a good example for sale. It seems as though the Jalopnik article was enough to get the word out to the handful of people across the country who would bite. Great to see it sell for that much though - now we can all point to that sale as an example of how much our cars are worth!

I'd look at the starter. Or check the continuity from the starter to the battery. Or if the starter has a direct ground.

I'll chime in! My supercharged G37 is burning so much oil (rings or valves, I don't really care), that I need to change out the plugs in 2 of the cylinders at every oil change. I'm planning a new engine, so I'm just riding this one out until it then. It keeps the OBXT dogmobile in heavy rotation for whenever I feel like going for a drive!

I just saw this on Jalopnik: https://jalopnik.com/at-12-000-would-you-lay-claim-to-this-2005-subaru-leg-1844271850 Does this belong to anyone on here? It looks like it's being sold by an enthusiast. The comments on Jalopnik are are overwhelmingly about how blah the car is and how the seller is asking too much. If the seller IS on here, I'd suggest listing it on Bring a Trailer. It'll probably go for asking to that crowd.

Interested to hear your thoughts comparing them to the AS3+. I have the AS3+ on my wagon now, and they're going to need to be replaced sooner than later.

I had a similar thing happen with a rear Koni for my WRX a few years ago. They honor their warranty without any problems. In my case, it was obvious that the shock was blown. Going over a bump had the tire on that corner bouncing down the road for a few seconds afterwards. So there was no question about diagnosis. So the process was for me to buy a single new one from Tirerack, and swap them out. Then I sent Koni the blown one in the new packaging, and when they received it, they reimbursed me for the total cost of the Tirerack order. I don't remember if they reimbursed for the shipping to Koni. But it was all pretty painless, and the only downtime was for swapping the inserts.

^ Good catch! But that still wouldn't explain why it's drifting lean - if it was reading more air than it should, then it would be sending more fuel than normal, making it drift rich. It's possible that there could be TWO problems going on, it wouldn't be the first time I've seen coincidental failures that make diagnostics really complicated. It would still be a good idea to test fuel pressure. And if you get it to stumble, try unplugging it while it's stumbling and see if that smoothes it out. And keep logging, it's helpful.

Looking at the log, it looks like the car is just getting leaner and leaner. The fact that there are misfires on multiple cylinders at the same time, indicates to me that it's a fuel delivery problem, not a particular injector. And all the different cylinder misfires seem to correspond to when it goes lean. It's not likely that all injectors start to crap out at the same time. Another symptom that your log shows is that you're *gradually* going lean. Not all of a sudden. Which tells me that there is something slowly dying (like a fuel pump), or overall voltage in the car slowly tapering down to below ~8v, or something getting clogged under pressure (like a fuel filter). If you suddenly went super lean, that would point to an electrical connection with a weak contact. Or an injector that either had power to it or it didn't, so it would spray fuel or it didn't. But in this case, it looks like an electrical motor getting weak (fuel pump), or if there's already a ton of junk in the fuel filter, it all gets stacked up at the output port when fuel is flowing through it. So at first it's fine, but the collected debris gradually impedes flow. It's also possible that your fuel pressure regulator is clogged and impeding the fuel rails. I'd say to rent a fuel pressure gauge and T it in to the fuel line that goes from the firewall to the fuel pressure regulator. Start the car and watch the gauge through the windshield. When it starts to stumble, pay attention to see if pressure drops. If so, it's the fuel pump or filter. You can get a whole fuel pump sending unit as a low mileage STi takeoff for ~$70 on ebay. You'll have to swap out the fuel level sender, but it bolts right up to the outside of the STi cage. Then drop the whole thing in, and you're good to go! But confirm it with the fuel pressure gauge first.

Ok, so it's fuel. I'd guess that it's either the fuel pump, or one of the injectors being clogged and not firing. Did it smell like fuel when it started sputtering again? Do you know the history of the injectors? Have those injectors been run on E85? Apparently injectors get clogged with only 10K miles of E85 use. Depending on the answers to these questions, I would guess that the next steps would be: To test the fuel pump, get/rent a fuel pressure gauge and put on the fuel feed line going into the engine and see if it holds steady pressure from then it runs smoothly to when it leans out. If it does, then your pump is ok, and you could look at your injectors. Some indicators of an injector going out: If it's only one injector, your car will lean out, but you will smell fuel. What happens here is when one injector doesn't get fuel, the O2 sensor starts to read lean, and tells the ECU to add fuel. The other three injectors start going rich to compensate for the one cylinder not having any fuel in it. The car will read lean, because it's a single reading at the collector. So the car will read lean, but will smell rich. A way to test which injector is going out: 1) while it is running rough and stumbling, go around to each injector and unplug the wire connectors to each injector one at a time. Whichever injector isn't firing won't make a difference if it's plugged in or not. 2) you could buy one injector and swap one out at a time. Move the one known good injector around to each of the four cylinders until you replace the bad one. 3) send out your injectors to be tested and cleaned.

Sounds like you're learning quickly! Yes, you can just have the key in the on position to read those values. The O2 will read whatever the leanest it reads (~20.0). If there is still gas fumes in the exhaust it will read closer to 14.7, but it shouldn't ready any richer than 14.7. But the O2 sensors need to heat up first before they give a reading, so you'll have to keep the key in the on position for more than 10 seconds or so to get it to read. Yes, a turbo car is in vacuum unless you're up in the rpm range. At idle, your boost gauge should read in the neighborhood of 17-19Hg. Any less than 15/16, and you have a boost leak somewhere. If you're monitoring it on something like Torque or Dash Command, it will read negative boost and peg itself at -7psi. This won't be helpful, read it off your AP. And yes, those would be the characteristics of where the boost leak would be if you had the car running, but it doesn't sound like we're there yet. It sounds like if your car has a vac leak, iit would be a BIG vac leak, like the throttle body coupler coming off or something. Also check the turbo inlet, make sure there isn't a huge rip in it. The smoke machine will show you this if you can get that going. Open loop just reads load and RPM. It derives load from the MAF reading. It fuels based on the programmed tables only, no real time adjustments from the O2 sensor, intake air temp, coolant temp, etc. O2 sensor is the main thing that it uses to make it's adjustments. And as mentioned, the O2 sensor doesn't come online until after 10 seconds of heating up, so for the first 10 seconds it's in open loop. Once it comes online, it starts the adjusting process, and adjusts the car into the idle/warmup mode it "settles" into. For those 10 seconds, you're in open loop. And yes, the MAF reading does come into play because the MAF scaling (airflow reading) determines load, which is used for open loop fueling. If the fuel trims have been zeroed, then you won't read any fuel trims until the O2 sensor comes online and the car starts closed loop.

Mechanical as in, not a sensor reading. Unless of course the car throws a CEL for a sensor straight away. Things I'd check on the mechanical front: Vac leaks, Fuel pump, something that would block air from the intake manifold (vac leak or obstruction), or cut power to all coils at the same time (seems unlikely, unless coolant temp sensor is reading something like -40*). So before starting, I would clean out the MAF, and check with the AP, that the coolant temp and ambient intake temp is reading something in the ballpark of ambient. Also check that the stock front O2 is reading 14.7 or leaner (numerically higher). Then smoke test it. if you don't have a smoke tester, trace ALL the air lines including emissions paths (secondary air pump, PCV, etc.). Double check all hose clamps, and make sure a hose isn't kinked shut. Next make sure all coil packs are fully plugged in (sometimes they're on, but don't click). It could also be the fuel pressure regulator. If you have the one from your last engine, try swapping them.

Ok, and I'm assuming vac leaks have been ruled out? Different plan because if it does it from a cold start, then it points toward being mechanical. One way to check that is to reset the ECU and give it a cold start. But keep in mind that if you do this, you lose the stored codes from the previous diagnosis. My thought here is: If it's mechanical, then it will do the same thing with a fresh reset of the ECU, because the ECU wouldn't be running skewed values from trying to correct the condition previously. If it's electrical, it will either start clean and deteriorate, or throw a code for a sensor straight away. I also realize that you won't be able to monitor the operation of the sensors if the car doesn't stay running. Another test is to unplug the MAF and try to start it. That will force it to run in open loop and take the MAF/O2 sensors out of the equation.

Check and make sure you have the radiator caps in the right spot. Off the top of my head, the higher pressure one goes on tope of the radiator, the lower pressure one goes on top of the coolant tank on top of the turbo. If you just had work done, they may have switched the two. If it still does it, remove the thermostat and run the car like that. If that corrects it, get a new thermostat. If not, one or both of the radiator caps could be sticking.If you confirmed that it's not the radiator caps or the thermostat, then you might have a blockage in the radiator.

If it starts and runs smooth until it gets fully warm, then I would guess it's a sensor going bad somewhere. Monitor the coolant temp numbers. They should slowly rise and get to 180-190 and stay there without any erratic movement. IF it's misfiring all of the cylinders at the same time, then it's something that is telling the car to alter fueling, or cutting power to all 4 coils at the same time. But what you describe sounds like more of a flooding out situation. Monitor things like, cam and crank sensors, TGV motors (if they are staying closed), AVCS operation, and clean the MAF.

Not here, but have you tried bypassing the heater core to confirm that it's not a leak coming from there? Apparently that's a failure point that causes people to think their HG's are leaking. The test would be to connect the two in/out water lines that go from the engine to the firewall, and from the firewall to the engine. Cap the two that come out from the firewall, and you've bypassed the heater core. Fill and burp the system and drive it hard, and see if the water level changes after cooling back down.

Re: the upper control arms with the bumpstop flats - I *think* they are intended for people who already have coilovers, since coilovers have bumpstops built in. Maybe the logic is that if you are extreme enough to need an adjustable upper control arm, that you need the adjustment because you are so far from stock height (via coilovers). I don't know if that was the thought process for those exact arms, but I've worked with aftermarket companies, and for many of them, it's common for them to be working with the understanding that the customer would already have coilovers.

Awesome, congrats on the new ride! So you used a stock STI midpipe and mufflers - doesn't that mean the whole 2013 STI catback? I didn't know they were interchangeable with our platform. Huh, good to know! I haven't updated this thread in a while, but I ended up fitting a generic Amazon catback onto the car with resonated tips to extend them out past the bumper. With the stock downpipe, it's great! As far as the downpipe, I just put my stock downpipe back on because of fumes and complaints from the lady. Plus I'm in California, and it's not worth it. For tuning, I tuned it myself with open source. I've been tuning Subarus since 2004, so this was no problem at all, especially since it is such a mild build.

I had this exact problem, turned out to be a bad coil on cyl 3. Turns out cylinders 1&3 see a lot more heat from the uppipe being right below it. When its running rough, unplug the coil on #3, and if it doesn't change, then the coil's dead. If it kills that cylinder when you unplug it, then it's working, and move on to #1 coil, and repeat until there is no change when you unplug the coil.

It shouldn't have any effect. I'll update this thread after I get my smog. it's due now, so I'll get it done during the week next week.

I'm assuming no CEL? If it just started doing it, I'd monitor all of the sensors. If it gradually started doing it, I'd look at a part wearing out. Since the DAM is dropping, then it's seeing knock for some reason. Either it's running lean all of a sudden (fuel related - fuel pump, fuel filter, injector), or it THINKS it's running lean (knock sensor, front O2 sensor).

Sweet! The Palisade has been eating the Explorer's lunch since it's been out. Actually, all of the new Hyundais are looking really nice these days. Congrats!

For intercoolers, you can usually empty a can of brake clean in it and swish it around and then dump it out. Keep doing that until it comes out relatively clean.