lilredwagon

LGT calipers/rotors available? If so, PM price shipped to 91042 (CA) please, thanks!

They're not listed, but do you have the stock LGT calipers/rotors? If so, PM me a price shipped to 91042 (CA). Thanks!

Interested in the calipers and rotors. Are they available? (Mostly asking about the calipers as they are not listed.)

Thanks guys! I actually did just that this past weekend. The wires on the R side (passenger side) were all actually fine. On the L side (driver side), there were two black wires. So I repaired them, and now my radio picks up stations again! But the light was still acting up. I pulled the actual light housing out of the headliner, and cleaned the switch - there was a lot of gunk in the contacts. So now I can use the light if I manually turn it on, which is a step in the right direction. So I looked at the latch and was playing with the "door open" sensor, which seems to be part of the latch. I sprayed it down with a full can of brake cleaner, and then sprayed it with a penetrating lube. It was working very smoothly at this point, but the "door open" signal was only triggering when I held the handle from the outside. That meant that the light would be on when I opened the door, but as soon as I would let go of the tailgate to let it swing up, the light would go out. Upon closer inspection, the large white plastic latch had a crack in it, and I suspect it was bending itself out of position. So that's good enough for me, I'll just manually turn on and off the light in the trunk when I need it. But thanks for your help!

I've been meaning to get to the hatch wires, but have been waiting for more stuff to go out before I go in there. So far, it's just my radio antenna and the rear interior light. Maybe it's time... Did you use any walkthroughs or anything with pictures you could link to? It seems easy enough, but I always like to find pics before I remove any panels I haven done before so I know what to expect.

Boost gauge should have come with a T, if not, you can get any plastic T from an auto parts store. In fact they usually sell the T's in a little package of assorted sizes for a couple bucks. You could get one of those packages to assure you have the right size. Off the top of my head, you'll need something like a 1/4" or 3/16" and splice it into the line coming out of the BOV/BPV.

@Carbon Falcon - I remember seeing that car for sale a couple years ago when I was looking for one. This was at the top of my list, but I opted for one that wasn't modded and had slightly lower miles. Great to see you on the forum! How is it holding up?

Just completed a round trip to Albuquerque from Los Angeles. Car ran flawlessly, and even got 25mpg in the high elevation! Feels good to FINALLY complete a long-ish road trip without incident.

Haha! I've had that username since 2001 on NASIOC, since before NASIOC was NASIOC (it was still iClub at the time). Back then I had a red WRX wagon. Thanks everyone! It's awesome, you guys are probably the only ones to appreciate it! When they came in and I was jumping around acting like I won the lottery, my fiance said, "Why do we need more magnets?!". I responded, "Look closer- it's the car you hate!" Now other people can receive the wrong parts with MY car on the magnet in the box! Hahah!!!

YES!!!! Posted in the Legacy thread, but wanted to share it here with the OBXT folks too: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5933910&postcount=1486

Life goal fulfilled:

^ Nice! Feels good doesn't it?

Heads up on the coil spring spacers - I bouht a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFF5CLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Same principal as what you linked to. They don't really act as a way to lift the car, if you get any height out of them, I expect that height will sag back down pretty quickly as they wear in. I bought them as a supplement to my worn out bump stops on my bilsteins, which are internal, so they can't be replaced very easily. For that purpose, they work great - they limit the upward travel of the wheel. But if I was trying to change the ride height, I would look at spacers on the strut mount (saggy butt spacers) or a longer spring. If you're just curious to see what a little height will do to your alignment, you can put a floor jack under the rear diff, and just give it a couple pumps to raise the rear of the car a inch or so, and then take measurements. It might help to look at how the wheel pivots because the tire will be still be gripping the ground in it's previous position. Or you can roll the rear tires onto a stack of 5-10 plastic grocery bags before you do that. The grocery bags will act as slip plates and allow the rear tires to pivot. I sometimes use the grocery bag trick when I do quick driveway alignments.

You're probably fine as long as the bottom of the insert is all the way at the bottom of the strut body. If so, just get that bottom bolt good and tight, and it will hold everything together.

Interesting - in my case it was the MAF. The O2 didn't change anything for me either. If you're on speed density, you might want to log your AVCS to make sure it's matching on both sides. If one of your OCVs is reacting slowly, it could make you run lean. And then fuel trims compensate and make you rich on the other bank. Otherwise, maybe I'd check EGR solenoids/valves? Please keep this thread updated with what it ends up being. It's interesting that you're exhibiting this on speed density. I tuned my other car on speed density, and haven't had nearly as many problems as my OBXT on a MAF tune.

If it's the traction control light, it's related to the wheel speed sensors in the hubs. If it's intermittent, then I'd say one is slowly dying, or there is soot on the magnet. You can pull them out of the hub and wipe them down with a rag, and see if anything changes. One thing that sometimes happens is an torn axle boot (because of different suspension angles, or just suspension work in general), and it gets grease everywhere down there. The grease itself isn't usually the problem, but the film of dirt that sticks to the grease is what makes the sensors mis-read. Just some stuff to look at and it won't cost you anything.

I'm sort of having this problem too. I've tried cleaning the MAF and changing the front O2 sensor, but I haven't put on many miles on the new front O2 sensor to see if that changed anything. No ECU reset as I was hoping to see the opposite fuel trim corrections with the new part. So far, it's going in that direction, but nothing drastic. I need to put more miles on it to see if it straightens itself out. If not, I'll just reset the ECU and assume the O2 wasn't the problem.

It's always good practice to compare parts coming off the car against the ones you're replacing them with. IF it was equal across both sides with the previous parts, then the new parts should be the same, but with no slop in the bushings. I've had parts that were packaged by reputable companies (Moog, Dorman, etc), but were the wrong part on one side. Most recently, this happened with tie rod ends. I wouldn't have noticed the difference in length until I installed them, but comparing them with what came off the car made the difference easy to spot. Considering you have a grab bag of parts being replaced, I would definitely consider that a possibility.

It used to. But it didn't turn on when the door was opened. Now it doesn't turn on when I switch it to always on, so I suspect the wires are getting old and brittle. I was hoping to not have to drop the headliner, but it looks like I'll have to do that. Thanks!

I've been having problems with my hath light not turning on. Do you know where the trigger for it is? I don't want to just start pulling panels and tracing wires since my whole cargo area is already super rattle-y. Dod you splice into wires under the headliner?

I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YNB7KW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 It cross-checks with what Rockauto considers plug and play. I'll report back when it's in.

I just looked up the weight of those - 29.26lbs! I'd pass. That's roughly 10lbs more per wheel, you'd feel that.

Wow, those are cheap! Motegi had a wheel called the Tracklite, that I was looking at because they were pretty light for the cost. These look similar, but there is no weight listed. But I wonder if these are the next generation of the Tracklite. If so, I'd probably get them. As far ast hem being 19s, they would look good if you were lowered enough. But I think you'd probably have to be pretty low to balance out the wheel gap and the sidewall.

For me, it was because I was replacing a leaking hard line. It was leaking because they break easily. A braided line is also easier to install, so it all just made sense to just get the braided line. I used the IAG kit, and it fit up just fine and haven't had any problems with it.

From what I recall, the rattle on the 6MT shifter is the lockout ring. I have it on my WRX with a 6MT (stock shifter). I believe Perrin had a solution to it at one point. Either that, or they mentioned in in the sales literature for one of their products - maybe it was for their short shifter. If you do a search on NASIOC, there is probably a long thread of people complaining about it, with a fix that would probably undo itself eventually.