A_A_ron

Image should be here. https://imgur.com/gallery/VM9jpWs These are the part numbers for the two banjo bolts on the turbo diagram. They are based on build dates. Listed as requiring two of the standard bolt 15194AA270 02/09-04/10 (probably MY09 JDM and AUS) 02/10-04/10 (MY10) The rest list only needing one indicating that the banjo bolt on the top of the engine was switched out for the newer part 15194AA420. Which is essentially the same bolt but with a tiny hole.

This is true and I just got some cool info on the 270 and 420 part numbers. Will upload a picture soon.

I test drove one and while it had some giddy up the transmission was slow to pick a gear and start applying that power. Not great visibility and the back seat was a bit of a joke. There were some cool features like passenger seat power controls duplicated on the left of the seat back so the driver and adjust the seat back to normal from inside the car. But that tiny stuff wouldn't be enough to make me switch. Maybe if it had a manual gear box.

Mine is so loud. I really hope they are putting in a new motor and quieting things down.

Did not find it yet. Bust weekend. I'll check tonight.

I think I see it now. It's got a very small hole that seems to operate as a restricter. I called the parts department and he said it's not a valid part number for my car a 2010 LGT but it is a valid part number for one of the 2012 VINs I gave him from the registry.

You can't trust their names because they have no standard.

Yeah that number 3 has two part numbers. A and B one with the filter and one without.

So each AVCS line has a banjo bolt with a filter and one without. The turbo feed line off the engine has a banjo bolt with filter. If anyone of those gets plugged it's going to cause problems eventually but debris in certain parts will cause problems too. I agree with changing those bolts out but they are pretty difficult to get to even though they appear to be right on top. Check this diagram to see where the avcs oil feed lines are. Keep in mind this are buried in, around, and under your fuel rails, tgvs, and intake manifold. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6023313/CYLINDER-HEAD-SYSTEM-10MY-12MY/B14-006-03.html

I'll try to find the invoice. That will be easiest.

Hi I think I found another banjo bolt. In this figure there are two bolts. The return line is marked as 15194*A. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6030514/TURBO-CHARGER-10MY-12MY/B14-040-01.html This is the part for that. 15194AA270 and it's M12 https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/SCREW-UNION/49227605/15194AA270.html The feed line bolt in the top right is referenced as number 3 which can be either 15194*A or 15194*B with the differentiation being ( -1004) and (1004- ) respectively. This full part number is 15194AA420. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/SCREW-UNION/49227607/15194AA420.html (3) | 15194*A | ( -1004) | 15194*B | (1004- ) Based on their parts diagram legend I assume this was an update made at some point and one is superseded. The big assumption would be the new one is the B part for serial numbers 1004 and up. This would mean they added the restricter and filter the banjo bolt. Make of that what you will but I would talk to a Subaru tuner/builder shop with aftermarket turbo experience and see if the have recommendations for open banjo bolts or restricter banjo bolts for turbo oil feed lines. Both are the same M12x1.25 which is also known as M12 fine pitch thread. Here's the picture from the hardware store. https://imgur.com/9sFZz9j Massive Edit: I just realized these are for the lines that connect to the engine. The feed line that connects to the turbo is connected with a different bolt. The return line off the turbo is a part of the pan. Right hand side of this diagram getting bolted right down in the top middle of the turbo assembly. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6021262/AIR-DUCT-DUCT-10MY-12MY/B14-073-03.html This is the one where I can almost guarantee you will have to go custom on the line since your new turbo probably won't have the feed line coming in at the exact same spot. 15194*B is the short hand but it is not the same as the one listed above. Full part number shows the difference 15194AA110. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/SCREW-UNION/49227604/15194AA110.html This particular line is split into two pieces. And what is more confusing is there are each from a different diagram but their part numbers show that they are very closely related. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/PIPE-COMPLETE-OIL/49227590/15192AA620.html https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/PIPE-COMPLETE-OIL/49227589/15192AA610.html The first one leads off the top of your turbo and is connected with the M10x1.5. This is also known and M10 rough thread pitch. It connects to the second one with a hard line flare fitting. The second one connects to the top of passenger head on the rear. That one is connected with the M12x1.25 listed above and may or may not be a filter restricted banjo bolt based on the part number update. I think the easiest route for you would be to just go custom braided steel line and replace both of these parts. Use the 15194AA420 banjo bolt if you want the restricer coming off the engine or the 15194AA270 banjo bolt if you don't. This is M12 if they have questions about the hose end needed. I can also get you additional measurements if needed. On the turbo side just figure out what your new turbo needs and pick accordingly. I would not put a filter restricted banjo bolt here if you have one up top. It'll be easier to remove for inspection and to replace the one up top. If you want to take the OEM parts route on these you'll need to make sure the turbo has the oil feed hole drilled and tapped for M10x1.5 and you may have to bend the hard line a little to get it to line up.

Is that Borc's old Legacy? (the guy from the facebook pages)

Scheduled my recall for a couple weeks out.

I think the image link is failing. https://imgur.com/a/FcZkIJc Working from home today and I just remembered I ordered a bunch of parts for replacing my turbo oil feed lines and coolant lines. Check it out. Looks like some the filter bolt in m10 and the 15194 bolts are m12.

I just saw in the note section of the part detail screen on parts.subaru.com is said M12. It could easily have been a typo.

You are right diagrams are confusing. There are a number of bolts I think you are referring to. I assume the feed line is the one on top of the turbo which is connected to the turbo with 15194B. Parts link here. Some of the other ones are 15194A. Parts link here. There are two different bolts one on each end of the oil lines that connect the heads to the top of the heads which I assume is your AVCS lines. The bolt that goes into the top of the head is 15194 (one of the two linked above). The bold that goes into the base of the head is 14445. Parts link here. that son of gun seems to have a filter in it. None of the other 3 bolts on the oil lines running from the engine to the turbo and back seem to be anything other than 15194 meaning they shouldn't have filters. I hope that helps. I am not the most skilled mechanic but I do have a gift of reading diagrams. Maybe it relates to all those cereal boxes with the find the tool matched to each worker quizzes I loved to do as a kid. EDIT: To answer your question the turbo oil feed line banjo bolt is M12. I don't know the length. Yes, we still have filters on the AVCS feed line bolts and I assume they are also M12 unknown length.

I am talking the advice of the LGT performance mods thread and replacing some turbo lines that have been known to rust away. Parts referenced in this post. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5241759&postcount=19364 Anyone who has done this, have you any advice for how to go about replacing these lines or tips on making it easier? Did you have to pull the turbo?

It's worth it from a labor savings risk. Even if your water pump makes it to 180k you still have to pay full labor to have a new one put in. Might as well since a water pump is like 1/6th the cost of what you're already spending for timing belts.

How did you send your wideband signal to your AP?

I'm sure I would have a hard time convincing them that my track setup has better braking performance above 300 and doesn't have any brake fade until a much higher temp.

#flogherdaily #ripstik

That squeak annoys me so much. Part of the reason I want to replace it. Maybe I should just do some diamond plate. My theory is that if you order the right MAT-FLOOR it will come with the right kind of dead pedal. Outrageous expense for a dead pedal but I wouldn't mind having new carpet as my current one has some hols worn in it. Salvage might be possible. There was a guy on the FB page thinking about buying a water damaged blue 11 LGT. Might grab his dead pedal and the turbo housing since the current travelling housing has a crack in it.

Okay so it looks like the floor plate itself has no stock number and only comes with the floor. Check the image in this link. It shows the part number 95011 as solid lines to both the carpet and the plate. There are two part numbers listed for the entire floor mat. 95011AJ47A - 312.13 95011AJ45A - 371.33 The first fits all 2011 Legacy models and only the 2012 GT. The second fits all 2010-2012 Legacy and Outback Models. My gut says you get the first one that was not available for 2010 indicating it might have the plate you want. The weird thing is it's the cheaper of the two and I would expect it to be the more expensive one. If you pony up the crazy high price for the whole thing just to get the cool metal plate you are worth to be ranked with the Testa's and Hirch's among us who spend crazy dollars on mods and JDM parts.

Ooh good thinking I'll check that. It'll still be a bit of stretch for me to justify the 120 for the gas pedal though.

I did not know that was a trim option on 11. Cool! I put the metal pedals on my brake and clutch. They are only about 20 bucks through the dealer parts department with my local subaru owners club discount. The gas pedal only come as an assembly for about 120. The floor plate foot rest doesn't have part numbers to differentiate rubber from metal so that would be a gamble to order.