A_A_ron

I am not of fan of the AVO because it's all silicone. I also didn't like the Racer-X because of the bypass valve location and the extra long piping for it. I have been considering the WRX charge pipe mod. Seems like only a small bit of custom work on the bottom connection and stock BPV location connection would be needed to make it work. Thanks for the link I'll read through that thread.

I knew that because I had looked at it yesterday but I forgot to put it in the list. Thanks!

I have seen a handful of TMIC options and I know RacerX makes a charge pipe. Do we have any consolidated place for a list of all the confirmed fitments and any data on temperature drop and pressure drop? If not I'd love to compile it all here in one post for reference. I believe we need some serious updating to this topic as the intercoolers available for the 15+ WRX have blown up in terms of variety and availability. https://www.maperformance.com/collections/2015-wrx-tmic-and-fmic A brief scroll through here shows the following manufacturers make OEM type fitment TMICs. TMICs: MAP TurboXS GrimmSpeed Mishimoto Garrett Process West Khanacooler AVO Turboworld Killer B Motorsport Charge Pipes: Cobb Grommspeed AEM Racer-X AVO Perrin PLM Mishimoto Nameless Process West My current theory is to try the AEM charge pipe and bend it to fit. Then worry about extending any silicone connections a little longer. Back up to that would be the Grimmspeed with some custom silicone as the hard pipe sections and the turbo interface are both independent pieces that could easily work.

I am considering getting STI exhaust cams. Found this full set for sale on ebay. What to you think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/193459493280?hash=item2d0b1599a0%3Ag%3AwPoAAOSw0vpeuGlg&fbclid=IwAR3dxI3YpEwApWlWZIFRKe1bdZYCtJiAGQJm2O_FTuWgkPA3FuiK-DBLhao

Turbosmart Kompact is a direct replacement that's a perfect fit for OEM replacement.

How are our case halves different? Also I've done a bit of reading on the 255 vs 257 and the stock pistons that come in them appear to have different dish volume and someone deduces the head combustion chamber volume was quite different between the models. Any one have any good info on what our factory heads are and the affect aftermarket pistons have on compression ratios and tuning?

I'd go oil filter relocation anyway.

I would love to know the list of OEM parts with part numbers for everything you needed for the swap. How did you resolve the shifter location?

I noticed some noise on my driver's side window. Going to look into it assuming this is the same issue. Thanks for the info guys.

Is there a good resource for these cars with the H6-3.0 engine? I just picked one up and besides changing the oil I want to know what I need to do to take care of this thing. I am hoping to keep it as a daily for a while. 140k miles on the odometer.

What is your EBCS setup like?

Get the opinion of another shop. All the warning lights coming on 5 miles down the road sounds like they cleared the engine codes right before you picked it up. You can also have autozone or a similar shop read the engine codes on your car. If you know the codes there are owners on this forum that may have had them before.

I'm glad you found a solution that will work for you. I have the thicker primitive plate and I love it. It rings like a gone when it hits a chunk of ice but I know that's something not hitting my turbo. The thinner stuff, if hooked on something hard, will tear and can cause more damage. The thicker stuff will bend and your car will slide over. Those are just worst case scenarios. Take a look at how it holds up after this winter and you'll see if it's good enough for your driving.

I forgot about the schedule change to the 2011 GT but there are a couple notes that basically point out Subaru admitting 7500k is too long for these kind of engines when turbo'd with the engine oil being supplied to the turbo bearing. With your 2.5i you'd be fine with 7500 especially if you don't race it around all the time. The higher frequency oil changes are suggested for the turbos because the journal bearing is sensitive to oil wear and has a tendency to destroy oil. One newer models they bumped the schedule down from 7.5 to 6.

I think the issue here is you have a very misleading title. If you want to tell your story tell it. Don't make your title and half of your post read as if you are asking for advice. If you want to do a write up on how to perform a maintenance on your car make a dedicated thread and include pictures. If the community and the mods deem it useful they will pin it in the appropriate thread for all to reference.

You make a good point. I am spoiled because I get friends and family pricing at my local shop. Still with the right tool it's a quick job. I'm not sure what the billable hours are though.

They have very nice large radius continual bends that will have much better flow than most custom built pieced exhaust that I have seen. Borrowed RnD from other projects is still RnD benefits on the product which is more than someone who learned how to weld and use and angle grinder. Here's the independent review attesting to the better performance which they attribute to the flow characteristics. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2803482

Replacing old spark plugs with newer ones that are properly gapped will help. You don't need to do wires or coil packs. You only need to replace a single coil pack that is broken. Spark plugs are 20 dollars at most and then labor to replace them might be 40-80 depending on the shop. Walk away from that other place.

Factory oil service interval for turbo models is actually 3750. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance1.html Also in 2011 Subaru started declaring turbo models must use synthetic. It's highly recommended for a 2010 LGT as well.

The vf54 turbo flange is unique to the 5th gen legacy gt. Might would be better of hacking up the FA headers to fit like moral hazard is doing. Honestly though if you want more power do a stage one pro tune. If you want more than that you'll need to spend a ton on supporting mods and take stage two pretty far to really make it worth it. If that's still not enough be the first guy to just buy the killer b twin scroll turbo kit and prove that it works.

I would agree with you however KillerBs headers have a ton of RnD in them and have been shown to have some incredible flow properties and since anyone can do massive exhaust after the turbo limited the exhaust back pressure in the headers can lead to much better cylinder evacuation and faster spool. Probably the kindest thing you can do to these EJ engines.

I've been sating this exact this for over a year. It's what lead me to picking up a set of headers and making this thread.

I agree with NVAKeith this type of strange reaction from the car sounds similar to the other incidents where people had trouble with their CVT and eventually ended up getting it replaced under warranty.

Found a fuel line pressure sensor splice kit for Subaru in 5/16ths on Amazon for about 20 bucks.

Are our fuel lines 5/16ths or 3/8ths?