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That is righteous.

The further away from the exhaust ports on the heads the gases cool and contract , Hence the narrower pipe going into the muffler doesn't slow things down. The 2.5 pipe at X temp gases moves as much volume as the 3 " DP at higher temp gases.

There are bands that do not require the special pliers. I think Autozone had them.

You want the whole DP or just the cat?

If You can turn it , rotate the tire 1 turn and count how many rotations the driveshaft yoke does.

I used Blue devil on My other car that had a head gasket leak in 2012, still holding up. Follow the instructions to the letter. It's a cheaper attempt than pulling heads

Wow this saved Me a ton of cash, I'll stick with My 08 hood.

E-bay has used Subaru arms for less. Since You will change bushings anyway. Don't forget to get Legacy bump stops, OB ones are not the same.

So I'm trying to sort all this out. Is there an AL hood that will fit the '08 OB?

Properly bedded OEM works great.

The easiest thing is to get the arms from Megan racing. Cheapest is replace the bushings from Subaru. Next is complete arms from Subaru. You should get an alignment but there isn't much to align in the rear. The Megan arms are very adjustible.

I'm digging but no luck yet.

Can this be installed in any Legacy/Outback ? I am interested but don't want to open a can of worms.

Did the axles seat all the way back into the trans? They sit tight against the seal with a noticable "click" when in all the way.

It works great with the stock OBXT wheels, I have no clearance issues at all.

Anybody familiar with seat interchange ability? Will "08 seat from an STI fit and "08 OBXT for example? Myseats are getting a little flat.

Another big Thanks to Dave at Cryotune. I got My tune in August and all of a sudden 3 weeks ago My DAM went to .75. I e-mailed Dave for advice and He basically walked Me through diagnosing a bad O2 sensor. He went out of His way to help Me out even though He had no obligation to. Thanks for the great customer service Dave.

So I blew out the flex joint in My stock up-pipe. Do I bother re-installing the stupid manifold heat shields?

Dave, do You keep any of the maps? I lost the 2nd to the last one You sent. The last one You adjusted for an unsteady idle with A/C on but at idle the car stinks like it"s too rich and I can't find the other map.

Woo Hoo My car made the website. It's running fantastic too. Way too much fun for a wagon.

So I thought it might help some of the people considering getting a tune from Cryo if I described how i'ts gone so far. I got a base map first with instructions to log a 15-20 minute cruise before doing full throttle pulls. Dave advised the performance on this map would be low. It was but I noticed that He already had the A F learn #1 @ 3.99 or less and the fine knock learn never budged from zero. The full throttle pulls were not fast but smooth, the 2800 rpm stutter was already reduced, not bad for a base map. I sent the logs in and had a revision in a day or 2. This map did even more to smooth out the torque curve, almost no stutter @ 2800 and power to 6300 rpm. That was with boost limited to about 11-12 lbs. The next revision got the AF learn down a little lower and still kept boost conservative to maybe 13 psi. Still zero knock and just smooth power from the start of boost to red-line. The next map didn't really feel like a big change over the one it replaced but there may have been a little increase in boost, I think I might have hit 14 psi. The next map Dave sent was a different ballgame, the car really came alive around 3000 rpm and was very strong to redline. I was peaking at 15.25 psi with around 10 psi @ 3000 when the car really starts pulling hard. By now the AF learn # is down to 2.39 at full throttle and still not a hint of knock. The next map improved in what felt like another good jump. The car made boost in the high 16 to low 17 psi , the boost started around 2800 rpm and pulled real good to redline, I was at 90 mph in short order , there seemed to be torque the whole way. Just when I thought He had probably maxed My car out I loaded the latest map today. Holy crap, He turned Me up to 18 psi and it made a huge freaking difference. The car is totally an animal now. Dave wants Me to drive it for a week and then send some logs, it's gonna be an interesting week. I live in an area that is full of winding mountain roads with good pavement everywhere that put My JDM Rev. C suspension to the test now matched with ridiculously fun acceleration. The Cryotune ability is obviously high end and Dave is an asset to the forum. I can't even imagine what He could do in person but if I ever blow an engine , the new one will get a dyno-tune from Cryo.

Can't believe the difference with the revision Dave sent today. It's already a totally changed car.

Yea baby gettin Cryotuned, test map logged and sent.

I posted this in the wrong thread so I'll put it here now. '08 OBXT, Grimmspeed DWG Dp, Perrin crank pulley and both silicone intake and throttle body hoses. Cobb AP running stage 2 LWG map. 98k miles and timing belts,plugs, etc. done 11k ago. Next up is valve clearances at 100k. At this mileage is a tune worthwhile and if so should I do the valves first?

So I am considering getting a tune but I am looking for thoughts on 2 subjects. Car is '08 OBXT, Grimmspeed DWG DP, Cobb stage 2 LWG map, silicone intake and throttle body hoses and a lightweight pulley. At 99k miles is it too late in the engines life to get a tune? Should I check valve clearances first? All other maintenance is up to date @ around 11k since plugs,belts,water pump ETC.