bdcvg

Bump for contact info

So compression test (cold) reveals  140,136,131 and 120 psi.  Parts on order so far                                                                                                        Shortblock  10103AC880

   Gasket kit    10105AB0109X

   Killer B pick-up and tray

  2 OCV's      10921AA080  

Oil Cooler

21311AA051

 Hoping that is the correct oil cooler, can't seem to get confirmation from Subaru.

STI oil pump   15010AA360

I have a spankin new VF52

I am working on a Grimmspeed TMIC

Now I am trying to figure out what clutch to get. I can't imagine I will have more than 300 hp so I don't need anything exotic. I am open to suggestions and am reading as much as I can find.

This still available? Tried to PM but no luck.

Ok Thanks for the info . Time to start gathering more parts.

I gotta think any effort to keep heat away from the TMIC is worth it. Just get a new shield.

I got a good price on a VF52 so it's on the way. Cryotune will handle the E- tuning and They strongly recommend keeping TGV's stock. Is there any reason to not trust a machine shop that may not be Subie specialists with the heads? Also any reason to not use My good stock TMIC?

On 6/15/2021 at 3:27 PM, bdcvg said:

Blackstone at 109xxx miles showed normal wear. Think I'l just keep driving it til something shreds.

Update. Blackstone at 125xxx shows high aluminum, high chromium and high iron so I guess it's time to get a new shortblock. So question do I send My VF46 off for a rebuild or go with a new VF52? I am also now researching shops to do the head work in My area (S.W. of Binghamton N.Y. ) if anybody wants to weigh in . Also go with TGV deletes or leave them alone?

This sounds like the beginnings of rod knock. But, if the event is fuel level related it is most likely not. Probably time to check the fuel pressure and then the basket filter, pump, wiring and regulator if neccessary. Restrictions could cause low fuel pressure. A failing regulator could cause low fuel pressure. A failing pump could cause low fuel pressure. Poor wiring could cause a low voltage event at the fuel pump which results in low fuel pressure. Etc.

 

I guess rod knock is a possibility but I would have thought the would be present as long as the oil is up to temp all the time. This literally only happens during low fuel. I will check fuel pressure , not sure I have a tool for that but I'll figure something out.

Could be fuel pressure related. Much more info/data would be needed to diagnose.

 

 

Way to revive an old thread by the way. Lol.

 

Lol. Well I don't get more than -1.4 FKLC until 1/4 or less. then as much as -11.0 sometimes more Light to medium load and 2500-3000 rpm then as boost builds the knock drops to zero. Freakin Me out Man. Go fill-up and it goes away in 3-4 acceleration events until I'm back to 1/4 tank.

Why would I get knock events when I am at 1/4 tank or less? Bad fuel pump/pressure?

If You decide to run as is, please advise Us here so We can get a decent "when will it blow" pool going.

The why is no saggy butt with a load of cargo, the size is up to You. I converted My OBXT to the KYB struts with Subaru Legacy wagon springs and needed 1" spacers for a level stance loaded plus full gas.

You know the plastidip peels off right?

Either massive vacuum leak or O2 sensor.

Might be a bad gas event. My car sometimes pulls some timing around 2300ish rpm under light loads then nothing for a few runs.

Get a Cobb or a OBD reader and btssm app and a flexible check book.

How long has the DAM been that low? Usually after a reset the ECU takes some time to climb back to 1.00 Smoke test to make sure there are no vac leaks maybe best start. If You still have the original intake tube from turbo to air box they are notorious for tearing where You can't see it.

You will never get a good bleed at a line fitting. Get the bleeders loose or use a bleeder extractor if they break. Check for fine knock learn and a high AFR correction #. I think above 4 is too high when warm. It the FKLC is more than 2 degrees it"s probably vacuum leaks. If it still has the original intake tube from turbo to filter box it"s probably torn.

Well factory plugs is not good. Even the best iridiums are only good for 80k at best. Bad or weak fuel pump is a possibility. Huge vacuum leak is a possibilty. You need to start eliminating easy stuff ONE at a time. This is where the Cobb AP or the btssm app is best for realtime reading.

Can you elaborate a bit more on your test? Pic of the set up?

 

Where did you exactly clamp your testing cap on the BOV? The small hose or larger BOV hose? And you must have blocked off the inlet hose too right?

My radiator pressure test kit just happened to have a cap that fit into the BOV hose. I put that in the BOV end. I removed the elbow from the airbox to the Perrin intake hose and crammed a bottle in it to make that airtight. I used a small hand pump designed to blow up pool toys to move air. The hose was long enough that I could move around and get a general location of hiss. Then I sprayed the soap water mix until I had bubbles.

In My case tightening clamp worked. I positioned clamp during install so I could reach it from above just forward of the turbo.

Found it. Took a radiator pressure testing cap and clamped it to the BOV hose at IC. Used a bicycle pump to pressurize system. Sprayed the old "Dawn and water" mix everywhere and found bubbles at BOV hose and intake junction.

The inlet hose is a Perrin that I have had for years. I will try the blow in BOV test again.

So fears confirmed BOV line not the problem. I had to check My banjo screens awhile back and removed the intake tube. I have had the issue since then. I took it all apart yesterday and checked everything but loose BOV line was My only possibility. I feel good about all the connections being tight and they are all zipped or clamped. The only one that seems loose is the funky diagnostic / PCV valve with the electrical plug on top of it. That hose slides in pretty easy but doesn't have a lip to ckamp or ziptie. What about a faulty BOV? Also I noticed no timing pulled below 5psi boost

I didn't have time to test drive and it just occurred to Me that the car should have had a crap idle if that line were completely off.