fullah

Yea when I said heavier in my last post I put it in quotes. Steering doesn't require any extra effort like something is binding or not moving freely. I don't know about you guys but I feel a slight difference in steering feel..due to less movement rather than something binding

How does it feel?

I still have the longer bolt in there and no issues. I've been driving it on the highway for two days now and I say this is an awesome mod. I feel like it makes the biggest difference around 35-40 mph but on the highway the car feels more stable. I take the same highway back and forth to work and before this mod I would have to constantly correct the steering while cruising and also while in a curve. This is no longer an issue. I just turn in and hold the wheel into the turn. It also makes changing lanes and dodging potholes much easier. The one thing I would say I noticed is u tend to feel the body roll a little bit more bacause of the tighter steering. I'm ordering the 20mm rear sway bar and eventually will lower the car. I think this mod with the rsb upgrade will make it worth it.

I understand the instructions tell you to but based on where the damper is being installed-personally I didn't see how loosening those bolts would make a difference. The two sides moved very easily into the slot without those bolts being loosened especially after I added some lubricant. FYI I also have the longer bolt still in there because being that I didn't loosen those bolts I didn't want to loctite in the smaller Allen bolt as yet. The shorter bolt would only make a difference for cosmetic purposes imo. I don't see how the shorter bolt would affect the operation of the part. Also even though using the Allen socket and a ratchet would be easier I would say it's best to install by hand with the Allen key. You get a better feel if it's going in the right way and only takes a few more minutes vs. using a ratchet.

Just installed the torque solution version. Install took me about 20 minutes using the supplied Allen key. Would have definitely been easier with the Allen socket and a ratchet with extension but it's not terrible with the Allen key. I'm a righty but found this way to be easier: Starting from steering wheel centered I turned it 1/4 turn to the right then installed the two pieces and caught the threads through both pieces. The head of the bolt was toward the passenger side. Then turned the wheel and tightened using my left hand. Position wise I was standing perpendicular with the driver fender as this seemed to give me the most leverage and access. I did the install from the top and I'm only 5'4" and did not have problems reaching the area. The one thing I did not do was loosen the two bolts on the shalf. What I did do was lubricate the two sections of the torque solution damper with pb blaster as a lubricant. As per the Perrin instructions it suggested using a lubricant to make install easier. First impression after install was with the car stationary u notice the steering response right away. While driving the steering wheel also had a "heavier" feel to it. Didn't seem as soft as before which is a pro. Handling is impressive but I haven't gone on the highway yet. I did get to about 40 and no pulling or noises or anything.

I kinda have a feeling something is rattling either touching the splash guard or something in that area. I mostly hear it on extremely bumpy roads. It's just been super cold in NY so haven't had a chance to check it out myself. I'm kinda skeptical about taking it to the dealer because I don't want them making it worse by trying random things.

So is there a specific reason the longer bolt can't just be left in there rather than having to remove it? Is it purely for cosmetic purposes or is there a reason for the shorter bolt? Just curious.

What's his Instagram username? Would love to check out more pics

Just a quick video I shot of the movement on the stock piece

I'm looking to do some wheels that are flush with the fenders on a mild drop. Is +15 too aggressive? 18x8.5 Flat Bronze 5-100/5-114.3 [+15mm]

Anyone with this installed drive on snow yet? Curious how the car behaves in snow with the more direct steering.still haven't installed mine as yet.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5702614&postcount=1637 He has a custom lower grille

Just ordered the toque solutions version. Got it for $39.99 brand new shipped I'm ebay...cant wait to try it out

Can someone explain the purpose of loosening the two bolts on the stock steering knuckle? It this mandatory or it just makes it easier? I saw on the wrx it's possible to install the damper without undoing those bolts.

I have a 2.5 premium so it's not the hk system. I don't have any preamps either so shouldn't be too difficult. I think the premium non hk radio still has some type of filter built in creating a soundstage and pulling power from the rear

Just installed four kicker cs65 speakers. With the free brackets and wire harness from crutchfield install literally took me about 45 minutes. I don't think it's necessary to disconnect any harness connectors from the door..i installed all my speakers without doing so. Just a stubby Philips screwdriver and u can remove the old speakers without disconnecting the door harnesses. However I did preasseble the new speakers to the bracket adapters prior to mounting them which is probably why I was able to do everything with harnesses connected. I definitely need to amp these speakers as on the factory headunit they don't start coming alive until after about 50 volume. Also I noticed the rears aren't getting much power from the head unit. I'm assuming this is for sound staging but I'll probably end up running new wires straight from the amp to the doors to increase the volume. Night and day difference between the stock premium speakers tho even without them being amped.

Does anyone else have that spoiler king trunk spoiler? I just wish it was more like an actual ducktail spoiler

That looks pretty nice. Do u have 20 percent tint?

Wow looks pretty aggressive. Any more pictures?

Please attach the pic to your post. Definitely interested in seeing the 2018!

That's exactly what I was asking! Thanks for clarifying.

I know he is intending on doing the koni inserts and seeing if they will work but my question was more about the physical dimensions of the strut mounting between the two rather than the internals. Basically what I was trying to figure out is if a coilover made for a 2012 wrx would physically bolts up to the 6th gen. It seems like based on what he posted about it being similar to the 4th and 5th gen that this may be a possibility on those model years. I was trying to understand why it's different for the 6th gen.

Awesome thread. I see you're saying the 12 wrx strut is similar to the 4th and 5th gen legacy but what makes it different from the 6th gen strut? Aside from the attachment point for the end link? Are you able to tell us if minus this end link attachment the 12 wrx strut would bolt up to our car? Are the strut mounting holes the same distance apart and the opening in the strut mounting bracket are the same?

Are you lowered?

Pretty cool using the box as an oven also. Did you leave the flaps open or close them with the heat gun inside the box? Love the blue color!