darkstarxi

Agree 100%. I'll never know what caused the ECU to act this way...and I don't have a spare ECU...and getting a replacement involves programming, etc...so I'll skip to the "throw in a relay and (hopefully) forget about it" part. Thanks.

Thank you. I'm thinking the main the relay is good too. I had my hand on it during my testing, but I couldn't feel for certain whether it was clicking. I'd prefer to fix it the right way, but that's cost dependent. If I go the "get a new ECU" route, is it as simple as out with the old ECU, repair the cut wire, and in with the new ECU? Is dealership programming or any extra steps required that would contribute to expenses? I'm assuming it's not as simple as out with the old and in with the new and if it's complicated/expensive, then I'll just go the "replace the switch with a relay" route.

Here's what I got... MAIN RELAY FUNCTIONALITY IGN OFF / SWITCH ON - I hear 3 clicks from behind the glove box as soon as I turn the switch to the ON position IGN ON / SWITCH OFF - I hear 1 click from behind the glove box when the key is turned to ON with the switch in the OFF position - the radiator fans also both come on IGN ON / SWITCH ON - I hear 2 clicks from behind the glove box when the key is turned to ON with the switch in the ON position POWER DISTRIBUTION I tested the yellow MAF sensor wire w/ the blue stripe (per BrandonspecB's recommendation) IGN OFF / SWITCH OFF - 0 volts IGN OFF / SWITCH ON - 12 volts IGN ON / SWITCH OFF - 3 volts & radiator fans both come on IGN ON / SWITCH ON - 12 volts What do you guys make of this? Thanks a lot for all of your help so far!

@%1; Sorry I didn't reply to this sooner. Life has been very..hectic. I tried getting an injector connector disconnected to do what you advised but they're tough to reach without getting a bunch of stuff out of the way first and unfortunately, I'm not equipped to do that at this time. Can you suggest something I can check for power at instead that is very simple to access? Thank you!

Thank you very much. I will try what you advised this weekend and report back.

The navigation is not actually the issue. Maybe it wasn't clear in the OP but I was misinformed by the previous owner. They either lied to me or they didn't know any better. The parasitic draw is the result of something in the ECU remaining on unless the toggle switch is turned off after the car is off. I would like to do away with the toggle switch and have it operate as it once did.

Thank you. Can anybody else shed some light on this?

I bought my 2007 spec.B in Colorado in June '16 from someone who claimed to know very little about the car. They said there was a well-known issue with the factory navigation system that drained the battery dead if the car was left to sit, un-started, for 24+ hours. I did some research and found that this was indeed a documented issue with these cars. This was not much of an issue for me because my car almost never goes more than a day without me using it anyway. I drove the car home (back to New Jersey) without issue and began to really go through everything with a fine-tooth comb when I got home. It was at this point that I found an odd toggle switch hidden behind the driver's side kick panel. I traced the toggle switch back to the ECU on the passenger's side floor, where I found that the wire for the self-shutoff control (Connector B136 Terminal 23) had been cut and this toggle switch had been wired to the ECU instead. Now I was confused as to why this would be done and upset that I was lied to. I called the person that I bought it from and they denied knowing anything about it. They told me that they bought the car from a private lot and that they were told it came to Colorado from Texas. Around the same time, I was going through all of the paperwork that came with the car and found a service record from someone with a Texas address. I contacted this previous owner of the car and he was able to shed some light on the subject. He told me that he had taken the car to a "Subaru specialty shop" and something went wrong while they were working on it, messing up the ECU. This was their work-around (instead of replacing the ECU, he guessed, because the ECU was difficult to find used and very expensive to replace with new at the time). He knew about the toggle switch and said that when he traded the car in, the toggle switch was not hidden under the kick panel, but rather, mounted to the kick panel in plain site. He told me that he had to turn the switch to the on position before turning the key on and turn the switch to the off position after turning the key off in order for the battery to not be drained if left to sit. I re-mounted the switch in plain site on the kick panel and have been doing the same ever since without issue. I'm at the point now where I'd very much like to fix this issue, partially because I want things to be right and (maybe) more importantly, because I'd like to install an Accessport soon and am hesitant to do so with this MacGyver stuff in place. CAN ANYONE MAKE ENOUGH SENSE OF ALL OF THIS TO ADVISE ON HOW TO CORRECT IT? Why was this wire cut? How can I make it all right? THANK YOU VERY MUCH in advance to anyone who can help me out. See attached from FSM indicating location of wire that is cut and tapped into (in green). If any more details or photos are needed, let me know and I'll be glad to provide them.

Looking for confirmation on part numbers for SS brake and clutch lines for my '07 spec.B with a 6MT. Does build date matter? I'm partial to Techna-Fit lines because I've used them on other cars without issue, but I'm open to suggestions on other manufacturers. Thanks in advance!

Interesting. I like the idea of an equal length header / up pipe combo or at least having the two made by the same company for better confidence with fitment without spending 3-5x as much on GS/Cobb/whatever. I have a CNT downpipe and I'm pleased with it so I went back to CNT looking for a header / up pipe and found this. It looks like 1320 doesn't make an up pipe to go with their header and CNT doesn't sell an up pipe separately to go with the V3 header.

I called CNT Racing today and was told that it will not fit 05-09 Legacys. Anyone on the forum who has any experience with fitting this on a Legacy? Anyone on the forum who can advise as to why this wouldn't fit a Legacy?

CNT RACING V4 08-14 SUBARU WRX AND 04-2018 STI EQUAL LENGTH HEADER WITH UP PIPE It doesn't say that it fits the Legacys like the CNT Racing V3 header does. Is it because of the up pipe? Is there any reason why the V4 header/up pipe combo wouldn't fit on an 05-09 Legacy if it fits an 08-14 WRX? Thanks a lot in advance.

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I see you drive an '05 LGT. Doesn't that have a VF40, rather than a VF46? Do the two turbos have the same inlet diameter? The AVO is significantly thicker than the OE inlet. I believe it's known to be the thickest of all the aftermarket inlets. Also, I'm looking for the size of the clamps at both ends of the inlet, if anybody knows.

AVO S1B07G41BBLKJ turbo inlet for 07-09 Legacys with the VF46 Can anyone tell me the correct hose clamp sizes for each end? Looking to upgrade to Breeze Liner clamps and don't want to have to take it apart before ordering to measure. Thank you!

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