darkstarxi

Added some of the same stuff I used on my air intake box and my skid plate to the cut edges of the radiator shroud to clean it up and maybe make it work more effectively + bored out the holes in the shroud and the radiator support for the snorkel clips to fit bigger clips... Hoping to hear back from National Speed tomorrow or some time this week...

Installed a modified GrimmSpeed radiator shroud w/ P2R poly upper radiator bushings made for Hondas pressed into it. After pressing bushings in, and hacking it up to fit snorkel: With snorkel installed: Got a custom alignment: Contacted Tuning Alliance about an e-tune but he apparently doesn't do Accessport tunes anymore. Asked the guy who did my alignment if he could recommend anyone local. He recommended TurboTime in Sanford, NC, Insomnia Motorsports in Cary, NC, & National Speed in Wilmington, NC. I've previously had my car tuned at TurboTime and almost refuse to go back to them because I don't like the way they conduct business, Insomnia is temporarily closed for whatever reason, and I had my eyes on National Speed after Tuning Alliance didn't work out, but it's about two hours away. I reached out to National Speed to get the ball rolling but am happy to hear if anyone on the forum has any recommendations for other highly regarded e-tuners who'll tune via Accessport or for anyone highly regarded and local to the Raleigh, NC area who'll tune via Accessport.

Looking into this for my '07 spec.B with build date 12/2006 now. If I understand correctly: - 12310AA410 is the correct part number for the OE single mass flywheel for the '07-'08 (and maybe '09 but I'm not positive) spec.Bs and for the '04-'21 STIs. - 15803 for Standard (up to 321 ft/lbs) or 15803HD for Heavy Duty (up to 472 ft/lbs) are the part numbers for the Exedy Stage 1 clutch kits to go with that flywheel for the '04-'21 STIs and '07-'09 spec.Bs.

Thank you for the edit. Would it have been so hard to point me in the direction of the thread you created in 2013 in the first place without being a prick about it? Edit: Here's what I've learned relevant to my '07 spec.B with build date 12/2006: - Current Subaru part number for the OE single mass flywheel is 12310AA410 - This part number supersedes part numbers 12310AA280, 12310AA340, & 12310AA370 - Subaru part number 12310AA410 is for the OE single mass flywheel for the following vehicles: - The part number that m sprank lists above as "07-09 LGT 6MT (SpecB) SMFW = 12310AA380" is for the OE single mass flywheel for the following vehicles: - For whatever reason, the 2008 spec.B is the only vehicle listed as compatible with both 12310AA410 and 12310AA380. Hope this helps someone.

You're right - this thread may not be the best place for this kind of information - or maybe it is. I happen to think it would be great info to add here, but what do I know? I'm inferior to m sprank and deserve to be talked to like I'm a moron. With that said, I sure have heard of Google and I spent a bunch of time trying to get to the bottom of it there too and am still uncertain. I'm not one of the Facebook idiots or the kind of person who makes a post every time I have a question without spending lots of time looking for the answer(s) first - I promise. I typically find the info I'm looking for on here or on other forums via Google searches - or I figure it out on my own if I can't and share what I learned with the community. In this case, my efforts haven't yielded what I'm looking for and so I posted on the forum looking for information for myself and for others. Shame on me, m sprank...shame on me.

I've spent an embarrassingly long amount of time on various Subaru parts websites, including that one, trying to figure out the different part numbers to compile a list for the site and am having a tough time coming up with clear answers. I have an '07 spec.B which is the year that things changed somewhere in the middle of the year AND the 6MT, which is obviously less common. It would probably be very helpful for the masses if a list of flywheel part numbers were compiled here, but unfortunately, I'm not the man for the job and I don't want to share incorrect information. I figure it would look something like below if anyone with a better clue than me would care to contribute.. 05-06 Legacy NA 5MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part # 05-06 Legacy GT 5MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part # 07-09 Legacy NA 5MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part # 07-09 Legacy GT 5MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part # 07-09 Legacy spec.B 6MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part # 06+ WRX 5MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part # 06+ STI 6MT: (Single/Dual Mass) Subaru Part #

Can anyone provide the Subaru part numbers for the OEM SMFW & DMFW? Also, are there different part numbers for the 5MT and 6MT?

Put another 100-something miles on the car today. Ran the tank empty and filled up with fresh 93. No issues with anything drivability related including sway bar>exhaust clearance. Idles a little funny but I'm assuming that's tune related because I can't think of anything else it could be. Gave the car another once-over under the hood and under the car and found nothing needing attention except for a small leak in the steering rack that I've been well aware of and am in no rush to address. Added butyl tape from behind along the seam between the front lip and the front bumper to seal it up and then reinstalled the skid plate. Will reach out about alignment and tuning this weekend or this coming week to get appointments...

Drove it a bunch today and found that the passenger's side axle-back was still rattling on the rear sway bar around 2100-2200 RPM only. Removed the passenger's side axle-back after marking with tape where it needed some massaging and then massaged the shit out of it with a BFH and reinstalled. Forgot to snap a pic of the massaged area before reinstalling it on the car and you can't see it in the pic below but the clearance speaks for itself. Opted to go this route rather than changing hangers or whatever because I don't want the position of the muffler to change and I don't want any change in ground clearance. Drove it a bunch more to make sure nothing else was of concern and then got it washed. Post-wash pics:

Gave it a good once over today and found a few things in need of attention... Before: After: Here's a closer look... Before: After: Gives you a better look at my plastic welding of the intake manifold on the car as well... Also... - adjusted the front passenger's side brake dust shield as it was barely making contact with the rotor in one place - added grease to front and rear sway bar end links, tie rod ends, and ball joints - verified no exhaust leaks and no change in clearance between passenger's side axle back section and rear sway bar - and cleaned up the engine bay a little better with some degreaser and a hose down

We'll see. I'm running the Kartboy poly long hangers.

Removed the whole exhaust rear of the downpipe as one piece because it wouldn’t come apart and then separated it off the car. Took lots of heat, penetrating oil, a BFH, a slide hammer, a vise, and plenty of elbow grease. Four pieces - straight off the downpipe, then a Y, then the two axle back sections. This particular exhaust uses slip joints, rather than flanges . It was one of only two aftermarket mods I bought the car with and it works so I’ve kept it. After getting it all apart, I reinstalled it starting from the front and working toward the back, leaving everything loose and using plenty of lube on the slip joints to ensure I’d be able to tweak it. When all was said and done, I think I went from about 1/8” clearance between the passenger’s side axle back section and the rear sway bar to about 3/8” clearance. Couldn’t manage to get more than that but it seems to be enough so victory! Gonna drive it around awhile to make sure everything is good under the hood and under the car - then drive through car wash with underbody cleaning to clean up whatever messes I left under the car, drive it some more so if anything’s leaking, it will show it’s ugly face post-car wash, then a good once over - then hopefully alignment and tune!

Agreed on vacuum lines and spark plugs...and a bunch of other stuff. It's what makes a Subaru...a Subaru.

Uploading some stuff that I used to help w/ disassembly, reassembly, rerouting, etc. The first one, I made myself in MS Paint and the other three are from the FSM with some markups. Forgive my less than accurate nomenclature in some places - wasn't planning on sharing this with anyone but I think they're some very useful resources. As always, feel free to ask questions about any of it including things that I didn't mark up. These are for my 2007 spec.B but I believe it's the same for all 2007-2009 turbo models.

The finished product (I think): Shaved intake manifold, red EMUSA vacuum manifold, blue silicone hoses aplenty, etc. EBCS bolted directly to intake manifold bolt on left and vacuum manifold bolted to intake manifold bolt on right with custom made bracket. Test drove it and gave it some hell and my plastic welding seems to hold just fine. Neglected to take pictures of the process because I was very focused and it was bitch-ass hot outside. Updated build list is in the first post. Happy to answer any questions. Next up is adjust exhaust positioning so the muffler tips are located properly and the exhaust doesn't hit the rear sway bar, good car wash with underbody cleaning, alignment, & re-tune.

Sold to BagheeraLGT!

Bump. Still available.

Replied.

Might be just you. They show up on my phone and on my computer.

Did a lot of tidying up & prep work for reassembly... - Permanently removed the shields or whatever you'd call them for the fuel rails - this requires finding a new spot to attach a bundle of grounds on the driver's side but doesn't change anything else about the install except for simplification. - Removed the brackets from the fuel/EVAP lines that run underneath the intake manifold because I won't be reattaching them to the underside of the intake and have no use for them. - Shaved a lot of stuff that will not be necessary off of the intake manifold. Left two mounting points up front - one will be for the EBCS and the other will likely be used for a vacuum block. The vacuum block is sitting on top of the turbo inlet in the last two images - it's currently being used to prop up the coolant reservoir so it doesn't leak much. Also capped most of the vacuum connections on the intake manifold for if I'm successful with the vacuum block. Lots of photos of the shaved intake manifold with everything removed indicated by the red circles - I may have missed some circles but I believe I got everything. I had a mishap when shaving the area that the factory intercooler support bracket mounted to and ended up with a small hole in the manifold - did my best to plastic weld it and hopefully it holds. - Shaved brackets off of purge solenoid valves, MAP sensor, anything else that will not be remounted to the intake manifold to keep them as small as possible as they will be tucked underneath/behind/TBD the intake manifold. - Removed most or all of the hoses that attach to the intake manifold and/or turbo inlet as they will be replaced with silicone hoses and routed to my liking. Labeled them for reference when getting creative with the new hoses. Removed the stupid plastic thing that bolts to the rear of the intake manifold and connects the two valve cover breathers and the turbo inlet and will be replacing with regular hose & connectors. I ordered a bunch of hose in 4, 6, 8, and 13mm + some connectors/fittings to make it all work. The goal here is simplification and tidiness. I want to minimize clutter and get as much useless stuff out of the way for ease of working under the hood because I can't stand modern rat's nest engine bays. When the hoses, etc. arrive, everything under the hood goes back together. Will have new spark plugs, serviced fuel injectors, butterfly plate-less TGV housings, phenolic IM spacers, all new gaskets, and anything else I'm forgetting in addition to everything above on it's next startup...

Bump. Shocked there’s no interest in these. I also have an OE BPV for sale if anyone’s interested.

Replaced my NGK SILFR6A Laser Iridium OE Heat Range Spark Plugs that I put in about 20k miles ago w/ NGK LFR7AIX Iridium IX 1-Step Colder Spark Plugs Gapped to 0.030”. Driver's side old plugs w/ one new plug: Passenger's side old plugs: Finally got the injectors that I sent to Deatschwerks for dynamic injector service on 7/11 back today. Very pleased with the technical aspect and very displeased with the customer service aspect of the experience. Test results, notes, and injectors: Now I have to find the time to get the injectors installed and get everything under the hood back together in its new and improved state...

Much appreciated. I'm a pretty experienced auto mechanic with a good idea about how things come apart and go back together. With that said, I have the FSM, but typically only reference it when troubleshooting electrical issues or for specifications such as bolt/nut torque, fluid capacities, spark plug gaps, etc. - you get the idea. Like I said a few posts ago, I'm sure I'm not the first or the last one to do this to one of these knuckles. It's an usual way to secure a ball joint and is definitely more difficult to remove than the more common way they're secured is - shit...you can't even get ball joints separately for lots of vehicles without replacing the whole control arm or a section of it with the ball joint already pressed in. I'd bet they fail pretty often after being separated a few times, but maybe I'd lose that bet. Hopefully, with greaseable ball joints in there now, there'll be no reason to have to separate the ball joint from the knuckle any time in the near future.

Got a bunch of new grease into the front passenger's side axle inboard joint/boot and got it sealed up w/ SS zip ties. Got the clip back on the passenger's side ball joint and got it pumped full of grease. Got my replacement passenger's side knuckle and ended up ordering a new hub/bearing assembly for it too. New knuckle w/ new hub/bearing and new ball joint all assembled and ready to be installed: Got that all installed and finally got all four tires back on the ground. Don't remember if I mentioned it earlier in this thread but I shipped my fuel injectors out to Deatschwerks on 7/11 for Dynamic Injector Service and am impatiently waiting to get them back so that I can proceed w/ getting the engine bay back together.

GRIMMSPEED VERSION 2 BYPASS VALVE - 08-14 WRX, 05-09 LGT - RED Brand New In Box $200 shipped to Continental US GRIMMSPEED PHENOLIC THERMAL MANIFOLD SPACERS WRX/STI/FXT/LGT - 8MM + Spacer to Cylinder Head Gaskets + TGV Housing to Spacer Gaskets Brand New In Box $70 shipped to Continental US