darkstarxi

Please post a picture of the underside of the trunk lip. I may be interested. Also, are the 05-07 and the 08-09 trunks the same?

Installed RalliTEK Front Skid Plate. Had to make some adjustments to the installation procedure due to rust fuckery but I think I actually prefer it this way.

Installed turbocharger anti-theft shield (Grimmspeed V2 Turbo Heat Shield w/ Black Ceramic Thermal Coating) Before (Isn't it cute?) After (Where'd it go?)

Perrin Lightweight Alternator Pulley & Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT PLUS

Been quite some time since I've been on here. Treated myself to a little time with the car today. Installed two things - nothing serious but it felt good to get something done. Can anyone spot what the two things are? Hoping to spend more time working on it in the near future and getting it to where I want it. Before After

Finally got the opportunity to spend some time with the car this morning... Adjusted some fluid levels and looked over some things before placing an order for most of what I'll need to complete the next phase of the project. Ordered: - ATP High Temp Rubber 5/8” Blue Oil Drain Hose - Grimmspeed V2 Turbo Heat Shield w/ Black Ceramic Thermal Coating - Torque Solution Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod - RockAuto Oil Pan - Killer B Oil Pickup - RalliTEK Front Skid Plate When everything arrives and I get the opportunity to spend some time with the car again, I'll work on tearing everything down. I know I'll need to get some other stuff - fluids, seals & RTV, maybe clamps, etc., but I'll figure that all out as I go.

I’ve been considering a skid plate for my car as well (mostly to improve aero and resultantly MPG over having nothing at all) and have been doing some research. Besides Primitive, RalliTEK also makes a skid plate that fits both 2005-2009 Legacies AND 2008-2014 Imprezas. The coverage on the RalliTEK appears to be better than the Primitive. That got me wondering if other options for 2008-2014 Imprezas might fit our Legacies. I found that TBW Performance makes nice looking plates for the 2008-2014 Imprezas for cheaper than Primitive and RalliTEK and contacted them to inquire about fitment on our Legacies but I have not heard back yet.

Thanks for the input. Gonna skip on the heat tape. Thanks for your input. I typically re-use copper washers and am considering doing the same here. Noted on the oil return hose clamps - ideally would like to upgrade hose and clamps and avoid ever having to replace either again. Can you confirm the part number on your Killer B pickup? Any regrets about the TS cyl 4 mod?

Getting ready to order parts for the next phase of the project... Work for this phase includes: - Replacing turbo oil return hose & clamps - Confirming that all banjo bolt filters have been removed - Installing an aftermarket turbo heat shield - Replacing dented oil pan & potentially failing oil pickup - Installing cylinder 4 cooling mod For the turbo oil return hose, I think I'm going to get this from fastwrx.com For the banjo bolt filters, I don't believe I need to order anything For the turbo heat shield, I think I'm going to get this from GrimmSpeed w/ black ceramic coating & both heat shield brackets For the oil pan and pickup, I plan on getting a Subaru 11109AA151 pan and I can't make my mind up on what pickup to get. Moroso 24965 or Killer B 070-110 seem to be the two forum favorites but I'm not positive those are the correct part numbers and if one is preferred over the other For the cylinder 4 cooling mod, I plan on getting this from Torque Solution Can anyone recommend an improved alternative to the factory oil return hose? Am I missing anything I'll need for the banjo bolt filters work? Any alternative suggestions for a turbo heat shield? Can anyone steer me in the right direction with regard to the oil pickup?

They're bolt-ons w/ integrated studs. https://iscsuspension-na.com/store/ISC-5x100-15mm-Black-Hub-Centric-Wheel-Spacers-Pair-p48378400

15mm Rear Wheel Spacers Before & After: 15mm Rear Wheel Spacers After Passenger's Side: Old Bushings Installed in Car: Old Bushings Uninstalled w/ New Whiteline KDT905 Bushings in Bag: New Whiteline KDT905 Bushings Installed in Support Brace: New Whiteline KDT905 Bushings Installed in Car: Confirmed rear diff fluid level is good too. That wraps up the rear of the car.

I decided that instead of adding the long "To Do" list to the OP, I'm going to update this thread phase-by-phase because that's how I'll be doing the work to the car - one area at a time. I chose to finish up the rear of the car before proceeding to the laundry list of work that will be done under the hood. Today, I ordered the parts needed to finish up the rear: - ISC WS5X10015B 15mm Hub Centric Wheel Spacers (pair) - Whiteline KDT905 Rear Differential Support Bushings I'll be running wheel spacers in the rear only to get the rear wheels roughly as close to flush with the wheel arches as the front wheels are. The diff support bushings are the last bushings on the car that need upgrading in order to have all of my drivetrain bushings (except motor mounts because I intend to leave those stock to maintain a certain level of comfort) upgraded. While I'm working near the rear diff, I'll verify that the fluid level is satisfactory. I was considering installing SS brake lines at all four corners but have decided to forget about it because I'm happy with my brake feel and performance with the current brake modifications. When this work is completed, I'll be focusing my efforts on the front of the car.

Just made a "showoff" thread here for anyone interested. The long "To Do" list I've put together to wrap up this project is below. Feedback is encouraged. Thanks in advance! Sooner 1) Address slightly overfilled brake & clutch fluid while intercooler is removed (easier access) 2) Address slightly underfilled trans/front diff (& possibly rear diff) fluid while intercooler is removed (easier access) 3) Replace leaking TGV to intake manifold gaskets Subaru (4x) 14035AA492 gaskets 4) Remove TGVs & install TGV deletes as a preventative measure & to clean up engine bay Please confirm that the correct IAG part # for my car is IAG-AFD-3010 Is it worth it to install the IAG 3mm or 8mm phenolic spacers? 5) Remove air injection system & install block-off plates as a preventative measure & to clean up engine bay Torque Solution TS-SU-111 block-off plates New Subaru gaskets for block-off plates 6) Have Dynamic Injector Service performed by Deatschwerks on aged stock fuel injectors 7) Remove fuel injector covers (& any other bits that unnecessarily clutter engine bay) permanently 8) Replace & zip tie any degraded vacuum, PCV, etc. hoses that weren’t already replaced and zip tied 9) Make sure OE PCV system is up to snuff PCV valve & some (all?) PCV hoses were replaced @ 105k miles What else can I do to make sure the OE PCV system is operating optimally? I don’t think I want to bother w/ an AOS unless I’d be foolish not to - it’s just a street car that sometimes gets driven spiritedly for short periods at a time + I’ve had the intercooler and associated couplers and the turbo inlet off a bunch of times and have never noticed any significant amount of oil in them 10) Install turbo heat shield Grimmspeed V2 (SKU: 092007) w/ black ceramic coating & both heat shield brackets 11) Replace turbo oil drain ATP OIL-024 High Temp Special Rubber Hose Two new constant tension spring clamps (not worm gear clamps offered by ATP) 12) Make sure that all banjo bolt filters have been removed I think I remember removing 2 of them @ 105k miles but will make sure I get any that I may have missed 13) Replace dented oil pan & potentially failing oil pickup Subaru 11109AA151 pan Moroso 24964 ($110) or 24965 ($115) OR Killer B 070-110 ($119) oil pickup Please confirm which Moroso part # is correct for my application 14) Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod Torque Solution TS-SU-585 15) Rear Differential Support Bushings Whiteline KDT905 16) Stainless Steel Brake Lines Looking for recommendation - StopTech? TechnaFit? GoodRidge? Part numbers? 17) Wheel Spacers Looking for recommendation - want to get a little wider stance on the spec.B wheels - nothing crazy 18) E-tune by Cryotune Performance or Tuning Alliance Later 1) Replace clutch/flywheel w/ WRX single mass flywheel & Exedy Stage 1 clutch when clutch needs replacing 2) Replace both leaking transmission/front axle seals while doing clutch job 3) Replace leaking rear main seal/separator plate while doing clutch job 4) Replace ball joints w/ greasable MEVOTECH TXK9513 ball joints when current ball joints need replacing 5) Re-aim headlights 6) Decent car wash w/ underbody cleaning after all leaks are resolved

I finally decided to make a "showoff" thread for one of my projects. I don't usually take pictures of my cars and I keep my build lists to myself. It's typically not until after I've moved on from a car that I regret not having taken any pictures of it. Before this car, I had a few Nissan projects and was active on the relevant forums, but never made a "showoff" thread for any of them. I got this car in 2016 and it was stock except for lowering springs and a catback. It had more than a handful of issues. I've spent the last bunch of years working on it on and off. It's currently got a little over 125k miles on it and I'm working on developing a plan for wrapping up the project. The "To Do" list will be added below when it's ready. The few pictures I took just now (nothing glamorous): The build list (Updated 01/10/2024): Key Complete In Progress and/or Have Parts To Complete Not Started and/or Need Parts Intake, Exhaust, Fueling, Cooling, Oiling, Engine, Boost & Tuning AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump Aisin Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit @ 105k miles AVO Power Air Intake & Cold Air Induction Box w/ K&N Air Filter AVO Turbo Inlet Banjo Bolt Filters Removed From (2) Upward Facing AVCS Bolts, (1) Forward Facing AVCS Bolt, & (1) Turbo Feed Bolt Butterfly Plates Removed From TGV Housings CNT High Flow Catted Split Bellmouth 3” Downpipe w/ Ground Down Bellmouth Divider for Wastegate Clearance CNT V3 Equal Length Header COBB 2" Uppipe COBB Accessport V3 ContiTech Insta-Grip High Temp Turbo Oil Return Hose w/ Worm Clamps at Both Ends Custom E-Tune by Cryotune Performance in Arvada, CO in December 2023 - Dyno tune eventually? EMUSA Vacuum Manifold Fast Motorsports 3” Catback Exhaust Fuel Injectors Serviced by DeatschWerks @ 125k miles Gates Heavy Duty Thermostat @ 105k miles Gates Micro-V Drive Belts @ 105k miles Gold Plug Magnetic Oil Drain Plug GrimmSpeed 1.3 Bar Coolant Expansion Tank Cap GrimmSpeed 3" Downpipe To Catback Flange Adapter GrimmSpeed 3-Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid GrimmSpeed Exhaust Gaskets GrimmSpeed Lightweight Crank Pulley GrimmSpeed Phenolic Thermal 8mm Intake Manifold Spacers Sandwiched Between GrimmSpeed Head>Spacer & Spacer>TGV Gaskets GrimmSpeed Radiator Shroud GrimmSpeed Top Mount Intercooler GrimmSpeed V2 Bypass Valve GrimmSpeed V2 Turbo Heat Shield w/ Black Ceramic Thermal Coating Idle Speed Adjusted +100 RPM Kartboy Poly Exhaust Hanger Bushings Killer B Motorsport Ultimate Oil Pickup Koyo 2-Row Radiator Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance High Mileage Engine Oil & M1-108A Extended Performance Oil Filter every 5k miles NGK LFR7AIX Iridium IX 1-Step Colder Spark Plugs Gapped to 0.030” @ 125 miles Optima Redtop Battery P2R Poly Upper Radiator Bushings Paranoid Fabrications Super Grounding Kit Perrin Lightweight Alternator Pulley Prestone 50/50 Prediluted Coolant w/ Red Line WaterWetter @ 105k miles Restrictor Pill Removed Silicone Intake Systems Silicone Hoses SMP PCV Valve @ 105k Torca TorcTite Slip Fit Exhaust Clamps Torque Solution Cylinder 4 Coolant Mod Transmission & Drivetrain AVO Poly Rear Differential Anti-Tramp Bushings AVO Poly Transmission Mount Bushings Cardone Heavy Duty Front & Rear CV Axles COBB Double Adjustable Short Throw Shifter COBB Poly Front & Rear Shifter Bushings Exedy (15803HD) Stage 1 HD Clutch Kit- Includes Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Throw Out Bearing, Pilot Bearing, & Alignment Tool Fast-Turbo (FTCK-23-170RD) OEM Replacement SS Clutch Line Kit ( Red ) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Front Differential/Transmission Oil @ 105k miles Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Rear Differential Oil @ 105k miles PDM (TSK4) TranQuil Transmission Sleeve Kit - Includes BETTER Throw Out Bearing & Sleeve Reinforcement Kit Perrin Reverse Lockout Lever (w/ coating removed) Prestone DOT 4 Synthetic Hi-Temp Clutch Fluid @ 105k miles STi Group-N Motor Mounts STi Group-N Pitch Stop Mount STi Group-N Transmission Mount Subaru OE (12310AA410) 2004-2021 STi Single Mass Flywheel Subaru OE (30546AA060) Clutch Fork Spring Subaru OE (30532AA020) Clutch Release Bearing Shaft Subaru OE (11021AA010) Clutch Release Bearing Shaft Core Plug Subaru OE (051905320) Clutch Release Bearing Shaft Spring Pin Subaru OE (806786040) Engine Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal Subaru OE (800610740) Flywheel Bolts ( Quantity: 8 ) Subaru OE (11831AA210) Oil Separator Plate Subaru OE (800406150) Oil Separator Plate Bolt w/ Sealant Subaru OE (800406140) Oil Separator Plate Bolts w/o Sealant ( Quantity: 5 ) Subaru OE (800508310) Pressure Plate Bolts ( Quantity: 9 ) Torque Solution Solid Driveshaft Carrier Bearing Support Bushings Torque Solution (TS-SU-474) Solid Shifter Linkage U-Joint: Subaru STI 2004-2021 TWM M1 Abrams Weighted Shift Knob Verus Engineering (A0102A) Bell Housing Cover Verus Engineering (A0377A) Forged Clutch Fork Whiteline Poly Rear Differential Support Bushings Suspension, Steering & Chassis AVO 20mm Rear Sway Bar AVO 20mm Poly Rear Sway Bar Mount Bushings AVO Front Underbody Brace AVO Poly Front Lower Control Arm Front Bushings AVO Poly Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushings (+0.50 Caster) AVO Rear Sway Bar Mount Reinforcement Braces AVO Rear Underbody Braces AVO/Whiteline Mix & Match Poly Steering Rack Mount Bushings Bilstein HD Struts & Shocks Custom Wheel Alignment by Automotive Performance & Chassis in Cary, NC in September 2023 Energy Suspension 21mm Poly Front Sway Bar Mount Bushings KYB Front Upper Strut Mounts Mevotech TTX Greasable Front Lower Ball Joints MOOG Front Sway Bar End Links MOOG Rear Sway Bar End Links Paranoid Fabrications 1/2” Rear Lift Spacers & Longer Top Mount Bolts Perrin Steering Dampener Lockdown Prestone Power Steering Fluid w/ Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak @ 105k miles STi Flexible Front Strut Tower Bar STi Pink Front & Rear Lowering Springs Subaru OE (34110VA121) 2015-2017 STi 13:1 Steering Rack Torque Solution Steering Rack Brace Whiteline Rear OE Toe Adjustment Lockout - KCA307 Whiteline Rear Lower Front & Rear Lateral Links w/ Poly Bushings - KTA124 Whiteline Poly Rear Trailing Arm Front Bushings - W63398 Whiteline Poly Rear Trailing Arm Rear Bushings - W63394 Whiteline Poly Rear Upper Lateral Link Inner Bushings - W63396 Whiteline Poly Rear Upper Lateral Link Outer Bushings - W63397 Brakes, Wheels & Tires Bridgestone Potenza RE980AS 225/45/18 Tires Inflated To 35 PSI (Cold) Full Size Spare Tire GrimmSpeed Brake Master Cylinder Brace Hawk HPS Front & Rear Brake Pads ISC 15mm Hub Centric Rear Wheel Spacers MOOG Front & Rear Hub Bearings Prestone DOT 4 Synthetic Hi-Temp Brake Fluid @ 105k miles SMP TPMS Sensors Stoptech Power Slot Slotted Front & Rear Brake Rotors Techna-Fit Front & Rear Stainless Steel Brake Lines Interior Aesthetics, Electronics, Lighting, HVAC & Weight Reduction Center Console Extendable Armrest Replaced w/ Non-Extendable Armrest K&N Cabin Air Filter Miscellaneous Under Dashboard Paneling, Shielding, Brackets, Etc. Trimmed or Removed Navigation Parking Brake Lockout Disabled RedlineGoods Center Console Armrest Cover (Two-tone, Faux-Alcantara Blue/Solid Leather Black, Black Stitching) RedlineGoods Parking Brake Boot (Two-tone, Faux-Alcantara Blue/Solid Leather Black, Black Stitching) RedlineGoods Shift Boot (Two-tone, Faux-Alcantara Blue/Solid Leather Black, Black Stitching, 1” Shorter) RedlineGoods Steering Wheel Cover (Solid Leather Black, Black Stitching) Seatbelt Chime Disabled Subaru All Weather Floor Mats Subaru Front Tow Hook Stored With Spare Tire Subaru Rear Cargo Net Subaru Rear Cargo Tray TunerDomes LED Courtesy Light Bulbs TunerDomes LED Dome Light Bulb TunerDomes LED Map Light Bulbs TunerDomes LED Sunvisor Light Bulbs TunerDomes LED Trunk Light Bulb Exterior Aesthetics, Electronics, Lighting, Aerodynamics & Weight Reduction Center High-Mount Stop Light Bulb Removed CPI Gold Selective Yellow H3 Fog Light Bulbs Daytime Running Lights Disabled Headlights Restored w/ CERAKOTE Ceramic Headlight Restoration Kit Key Fob Functionality Modified To Unlock All Doors w/ One Press of Unlock Button Miscellaneous Engine Bay Paneling, Shielding, Brackets, Etc. Trimmed or Removed Miscellaneous Under Car Paneling, Shielding, Brackets, Etc. Trimmed or Removed Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT PLUS Rain-X Silicone Endura Wiper Blades RalliTEK Front Skid Plate Rear Windows Tinted 20% Risky Ricky Fuel Cap Holder STi Style Front Lip Spoiler w/ Gaps Between Bumper & Lip Filled From Behind w/ Butyl Tape Trunk Debadged of “SUBARU” & “spec.B” Lettering Vosla Super Brite 9005 High Beam Light Bulbs Vosla Super Brite H7 Low Beam Light Bulbs WellVisors Window Deflectors

I see that Cryotune Performance and Tuning Alliance appear to be two forum favorites for remote tuning. Is that accurate? One of my concerns is that remote tuners don't see or necessarily concern themselves with modifications done for reliability. For example, it seems unlikely that a remote tuner would have tipped me off to the oil pickup issue. The tuner I used up until now did a "pre-tune check" and one of the things he recommended as a result was the pickup tube. My top concern is reliability so if there's anything else like that I should know about, I want to make sure I'm aware of it so I can take care of it. I will take some time over the next couple of days to think all this through and put together a new To Do list for review. Thank you all again for your input.

Thank you. I also agree with Joe and the bulk of you. That's why I'm here - seeking advice on how to get to where I want without spending more money or effort than necessary. I'm my builder and my tuner has not provided that courtesy. Noted and thanks for the knowledge! I think I made it pretty clear in the OP what I'm looking for - happy to answer any questions you may have to further clarify so you can advise appropriately. I'd love to hear some recipe suggestions. I'm considering doing TGV deletes to save having to worry about them possibly failing later - and to clean up some clutter in the engine bay. I believe I have the appropriate fuel pump for flex fuel, but I don't particularly want to go that route anyway. He put me on a custom features map so maybe he wants the relocated IAT so that he can tune with speed/density or hybrid MAF - not quite sure why he wants to do that, but I can't say I'm terribly surprised. Agreed on the wideband. I guess he can't datalog wideband data without the iWire kit and that's what he'd like to be able to do.

Thanks for your input. I very much agree that the tuner is approaching this like a big power build, despite me emphasizing my goals and intentions repeatedly - it's like we're not speaking the same language when it comes to discussing future plans and I have no idea why that is. The tuner I'm working with is a seemingly highly regarded Subaru-focused tuner in my area - the only one within a reasonable distance that I'm aware of - and he's about an hour from me. I know they deal with a lot of very high end builds - but this isn't that. Could you recommend an injector that would give some more wiggle room without going all the way to 1050s - something more budget-friendly than the 1050s maybe? Thanks. Like I said to shralp, agreed about being out sync. I'm definitely not blind to that. Tuner seems to be treating this more like what he'd do to the car if it were his or if someone came to him with the car and a blank check and less like helping me get what I want out of the car. That's why I made this post - to try and get some (more realistic) perspectives and advice from you folks. I definitely value the insurance / peace of mind that comes with some of his suggestions because as I've said to him and to you guys, I'm looking for reliability and stability, but I need help deciphering what coverage is worth the cost of the policy. Thanks for your input. Where did you have them cleaned?

Thank you for your input. I'm not drag racing - just a fun street car. Could you please provide a link or part number for the IAG Street Series AOS you've referred to? Will look into this. Thanks. Thanks. Clutch feels good right now. It may have been replaced at some point before I got the car - really not sure. Down the line, I plan to do clutch/flywheel, both front axle seals, and rear main seal together as one big project - all three of those seals seem to be seeping at this time, but I intend to wait and do all of the trans related stuff together later on after dyno tuning. Can you make a recommendation on a clutch/flywheel setup? I was planning on getting an Exedy Stage 0 or Stage 1 kit. Thank you. I was planning on TGV deletes for exactly the reason you mentioned and also to clear up some space and tuner advised against it (probably for emissions reasons). He said that in these cars, the TGVs are active at more than just startup and that it's a common misconception because the older Subaru TGVs used to only be active at startup). If I do the TGV deletes, are there any supplementary parts recommended - phenolic gaskets or anything? My car does already have factory top feeds and I believe I got all the banjo bolt filters already but I'll double check. I thought of another couple of questions related to fuel if anyone can advise: 1) Is there any good reason to leave the metal covers in the way of the fuel injectors on? I plan to remove them when I do the fuel injectors unless it is advised against. 2) After looking at the COBB fuel pressure sensor kit mentioned by the tuner, it looks like I could install it without going flex fuel if I wanted to and it would be beneficial for the tuner to fine tune with. Is this correct, provided he uses a custom features map or is the functionality of this dependent on conversion to flex fuel?

I recently had my '07 spec.B with an unmodified VF46 preliminarily road tuned and am looking to wrap up my build before I get a final dyno tune. The car and motor have about 125k miles on them and the turbo was replaced with a brand new one from IHI at around 105k miles. The goals are reliability and stability more so than high boost or high HP, although I of course would like to take advantage of what's on the car power wise. I would like for the tuner to be able to dial in the tune without any obstacles. I want room for him to be comfortable tuning without restriction but I'm not necessarily looking for room to be able to upgrade the turbo or build the car for more power in the future. I'm certain that I do not wish to build the car further after this dyno tuning. I'm welcoming and encouraging of all perspectives. The current relevant mod list is: - COBB Accessport V3 - AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump - AVO Power Air Intake & Cold Air Induction Box w/ K&N Air Filter - AVO Turbo Inlet - CNT Racing High Flow Catted Split Bellmouth 3” Downpipe/Midpipe w/ Ground Down Bellmouth Divider for Wastegate Clearance - Fast Motorsports 3” Catback Exhaust - GrimmSpeed 3-Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid - GrimmSpeed Top Mount Intercooler The list of work currently being considered before dyno tuning is: 1) Replace TGV to Intake Manifold Gaskets - This has to be done because they're leaking a bit and affecting AFR. What else can/should I do while I'm in there that will help me meet my goals? 2) Upgrade fuel injectors - Tuner advised that my injectors are old and that they're at 78% duty cycle at 6600 RPM in third gear. He considers these injectors static or uncontrolled in the 80-85% range and strongly advises upgrading them so that he's not limited by their (potential?) shortcomings when dyno tuning. His recommendation is Injector Dynamics 1050X injectors. What's the consensus on this? Are these overkill? Is there a better alternative for my goals? 3) Replace any vacuum/PCV hoses that look like they've seen better days - This has to be done because several hoses are showing signs of cracking. Again, what else can/should I do while I'm in there that will help me meet my goals? 4) Install turbo heat shield - I'm currently running without one, I don't have my stock one anymore, and tuner says he wants to see one on there before dyno tuning. I'm planning on the GrimmSpeed 092007 Version 2 Heat Shield. He recommended the Cobb shield. What's the consensus on this? Is one better than the other? Is there a better alternative? Does it make a difference? Is this even necessary? 5) Replace turbo oil return hose - This has to be done because it's leaking. It looks like a pretty miserable project. Any recommendations on upgrades instead of putting another shitty factory one with shitty clamps on there? Any recommendations on how to best approach this to make it a less miserable project? 6) Replace oil pan, pickup, etc. - My oil pan is dented and tuner advised that these oil pickups are at high risker of failure. Originally, I was going to look for an aftermarket pickup and just put a new OE pan on there, but I'm now considering the IAG ENG-2201SL IAG EJ Street Series Oil Pan Package (Silver Pan / Pickup / Street Baffle / Windage Tray). I figure if I'm going through the process, I might as well upgrade in this area. Any thoughts/suggestions? 7) Upgrade exhaust manifolds & crosspipe - I'm not really sure if this is justifiable but I'm probably going to have this all off when I'm doing the oil pan work (and maybe the turbo oil return hose too). Was considering it for reliability/preventative maintenance reasons more than anything. I was considering going with the CNT Racing HD-9727 V3 Equal Length Header (cheap). Tuner advises not to bother because there will be no benefit upgrading header & crosspipe w/ factory VF46 and the factory manifolds are less prone to failure than most/all aftermarket headers anyway (especially cheap ones). What's the consensus on this, given my current mod list and the plans listed here? I've seen mention of reliability benefits with going equal length, which is maybe more why I'm considering it than any other reason. 8) Install iWire PP-SUWB001 AEM Wideband X Line Series with iWire PnP - Tuner advises installing wideband to be able to better dial in the tune. He recommended an AEM UEGO and I found this setup that looks to be the way to go. Are there any better options or alternatives to this? Should this be necessary to get a really good tune? 9) Relocate IAT from MAF to intercooler - Tuner's recommendation. He says to use the iWire/AEM IAT sensor & wiring harness kit and put the bung on the D/S intercooler tank. He says it makes for better tuning capability. Thoughts on this? Are there any better options or alternatives to this? Should this be necessary to get a really good tune? 10) Go flex fuel - Tuner's recommendation. He's very big on flex fuel and advises COBB kit. I'm really not interested in doing this but could be talked into it if it's justifiable. He says that even if I'm not interested, the gained ability to run the COBB fuel pressure sensor kit on my custom features map is beneficial. What is the consensus on this? Seems to me like it's not worth it, given my goals, but I'd like to hear what others think. 11) AOS - Tuner's recommendation. He strongly advises using the Moroso large can AOS kit. Based on my research, an AOS isn't justifiable given my build and goals, but he feels otherwise. What's the consensus on this? I was looking at the IAG AOS if anything - really not sure. I'm also open to any additional suggestions given my goals. Thank you in advance to anyone who takes the time to read all of this and advise.

Thank you. That clears things up. Very clear difference. The side feeds almost look more like ball joints than fuel injectors - never seen injectors like that.

Thank you. I thought they were top feeds but wasn’t certain how to tell for sure. Is it typical that an 07 spec.B would be top feed and have blue injectors like that? My tuner called them side feeds and recommended upgrading them to Injector Dynamics ID1050X - that’s especially confusing because those only seem to be compatible with top feed rails. Maybe he misspoke. Are the 1050s a good way to go?

2007 spec.B Pretty sure these are the injectors that came from the factory. Fuel system under the hood appears to me unmodified. Can anyone tell me if these are top feed or side feed? Can anyone ID the injectors and tell me their flow rate? Trying to determine whether or not I need to upgrade and what a suitable upgrade would be for Stage 2. I have an AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump installed. Thanks in advance! (Not very good) pictures below.

Sold everything locally. This thread can be closed.

Sending you a PM

Whiteline W63393 Bushings (installed in lower front arms) sold!